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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    I think there's WAY too many parts that are shared to separate them. I understand you can even change some frame members and mount the fixed bags on the early ones and toss in the 1300 engine if you want. So they've rather coined the term MKI and MKII About the only thing you can exchange with a 2nd gen is the light bulbs and driver.
  2. mbrood
    Thanks Squeeze. I didn't even think to check out the springs. I bought a diaphragm for an "86"... but it had the wrong lifter hole size (.09" / 2.28mm) and perfectly matched the 84 diaphragms lifter hole. The outer diameter is the same (1.178" / 29.93mm) and the inner diameter is a straight tube (.96" / 24.4mm) for the first .865" and then abruptly changes to a slightly smaller ID... maybe .945. 83 26H-14933-00-00 SPRING, DIAPHRAGM 86 1FK-14933-00-00 SPRING, DIAPHRAGM and of course, with this "supposed" 86 diaphragm came a spring... 41R-14933-00 now I know what the guy was selling... I received the slide and spring from an 84... yep, the 83 and 84/85 are different. Rather goes with the different jets in the later two years. (Read below for corrected part numbers)
  3. mbrood
    I changed to Progressives and put in no spacers and had to REALLY get some help getting the fork nuts down enough to catch threads... I have no idea how others sneak in a 1/2" PVC spacer... the directions basically say you should see 1 inch of "material" above the fork tube, providing a 1" preload. With no PVC spacer, I had a bit MORE than a 1 inch preload (meaning the aluminum "cap" with the o-ring and just a bit of the spring were above the fork tube) so I put the cap bolts in (tough job for those without enough sand in their pants to get past that 1" preload), then the bike leaned so far over on the side stand that it was tough to jerk up and I was on tippy-toe with both feet... with no air in the front and the rear reduced to minimum! I have a 29" inseam. I felt I couldn't be jerking the bike up all the time off the side stand, and maybe have it jerk TOO far... so I opted to take the 1" cap with the o-ring out... Just spring and cap bolt. She now sits up much nicer (almost like before) and the ride feels great and steering seems nice and smooth and I can JUST get both feet flat on the ground at a level stop. I honestly don't feel any degradation in handling due to this slight geometry change, but I only know this bike, so... Here's the two setups... Progressive on top... note that lower stock unit with the 3 inch "original" spacer in place with the original spring, both units measure out the same (on mine!). http://bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg
  4. mbrood
    I don't know about the mechanical differences but the parts list shows whole differnt numbers: 1983 26H-14941-06-00 Nozzle, Main 26H-1490J-00-00 Needle Set 41R-14940-00-00 Diaphragm Assy 1986 26H-14941-90-00 Nozzle, Main 1NL-1490J-00-00 Needle Set 1FK-14940-00-00 Diaphragm Assy The plastic slide for the XVZ1200 appears to be exactly the same except the bleed hole is about 2/3 the size of the XVZ1300.
  5. mbrood
    Neil, If a guy PROVED that his YICS chamber was properly sealed and the hoses were good... do you see any reason (let's say a guy happens to be in there at the time) not to still just rip it out and cap the plugs? First doing away with the future leak problem and also just getting it out of the way... I've read LOTS of theory of the YICS purpose but never read that there's any "real" change in tossing it.
  6. mbrood
    Chuck, Unless I'm missing something, it sounds like two things are screwy... MY three sensors showed a MAJOR drop at 1k rpm from the 2.2v ambient voltage to the 1.6V and showed a dropping curve as the rpm changed. As you raise the rpm, doesn't yours follow? My idea of not seeing an rpm change was totally false... If I cap the vacuum line and fire it up and then "suck" on the sensor, I can hear an immediate and progressive change in the rpm. Now the next thing, you say you don't see any change below 1.9 volts... is it possible you have a defective TCI? Most systems use two "forces"... vacuum for part of the timing and rpm for the basic ("I think"!!!)... And the TCI definitely gets the tach info from the pick-up coils... The 83 used the same pressure sensor but picked up vacuum from higher ON the carb so the TCI is different... It's the TCI that would be programmed for the difference in pressure sensor input to get the desired timing (since rpm is relative). My dad was a master mechanic and I got a few tricks from him but for the most part I'm a hammer and bigger hammer kind of guy. Mike
  7. mbrood
    I wouldn't think you would see any appreciable rpm change, changing the timing to a more advanced firing point would result in an earlier "start" to the power stroke, just getting a finite more burn time, but you didn't change air or fuel volume so the rpm is rather locked. I would think the real spot to see this "change" would be on a dyno. What you want is to find that "sweet spot" where the fuel and air and rpm just matches the spark timing, always monitoring fuel economy. The "sound" of a healthy running single or two cylinder is much easier to hear, the 4s and larger are just tougher so you have to watch other things... like the plugs. Trying to optimize for fuel economy is a careful juggle of the idle mixture screw and the timing, normally you would address the other jets as well. But by providing an initial offset (with the pot) you are also advancing the timing at all rpm so you really want to keep checking those plugs... light brown is sweet... whitish or ashen is NEVER desired... don't want to burn up an engine to save a few cents on gas.
  8. mbrood
    The plug is fuel fouled? Wet or sooty? If so, lean down and push on the choke for that carb and make sure it's not hanging open a bit.
  9. mbrood

    Video

    mbrood replied to Pilot's topic in Watering Hole

    That's the video that's been circulating widely on the internet as fact, when in fact it is a complete fiction. At first blush, the aircraft looks real and the wing separation seems authentic. If you listen closely, you'll hear that the engine sounds are not properly synchronized, the radio chatter seems out of place and the people are definitely over-acting. But for its intended purpose, KillaThrill got a great viral advertising campaign. Congratulations! Near the middle of the video the aircraft is inverted, though it's been altered to make it appear like it's flying right side up. The landing gear is wrong position for it to be flying right side up. Since it's flying inverted, the wrong wing is missing. Also, the vertical stabilizer switches sides quickly as the airplane slides out of view to help continue the illusion it was right-side-up the next time the airplane comes into view. you can google "killathrill" for more details... Here's another... an airliner goes down in the surf... great computer work... but fake again http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CivSgzxFcdg&hl=en&fs=1 It's not impossible to lose a wing and land safely... but the BODY of the plane better provide lift... Here's a real one... F-15 with just one... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpwyU30g7rI]YouTube - Israeli F15 Flying and Landing With 1 Wing Only Upload by Ym[/ame] I rather like the "ninja cat" http://www.chilloutzone.de/files/08091502.html
  10. mbrood
    He said the soad (liquid dish soap) was a great "wetting" agent so it tended to stick rather than just bead and run off... and it was easy to get off later... yep, just use a hose.
  11. mbrood
    Thanks, I could see it was going to be messy and tight but you guys also gave some good tips. I think I'll tear into it and be done with it. My dad always first sprayed soapy water on the painted surfaces so there was less chance of damage.
  12. mbrood
    The manual says to basically drain the reservoir, break the lines (make a big mess) and then pull the unit out. Does somebody have some "person info and maybe a few tricks"? My master "seems" fine but I've never had her open, the reservoir looks like junk (salt corrosion) and I just happened to come across a rebuild kit. It might have to be a winter project but I'm sure it's better to get the thing out and cleaned rather than wait until it "requires" it. The fluid has been flushed and still looks great but so did the clutch until I purged the line with air pressure and quite a bit of crystaline crud flew out. Thanks, Mike
  13. mbrood
    Pulling on the lever puts pressure on the line and THIS should help return the clutch lever but the speed is determined by the fit and condition of the piston rubber seals and piston sleeve, the large (return) spring on the output side of the piston and possibly by the lever pivot being too tight or binding. I would start with just loosening the bolt a bit holding the lever... The tiny spring that goes in the little rubber boot then onto the short "pushrod" is just to hold the lever fully out so the clutch switch stays engaged while riding. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/clutch-master.jpg
  14. mbrood
    I've been wondering about the voltages we all get from our sensors (and a possible effect on different mileages?) I took 3 sensors... #1 held good vacuum... #2 held vacuum for about 90 seconds and #3 only held about 3 seconds... highly scientifically sucking the brass tube and sealing it with my tongue. All are standard PS8-02 with suffix: #1 7X20, #2 5Z17, #3 5Y11 (all "reportedly" off an 86-88 Venture Royale). key-on battery V = 12.2v battery at 1k rpm = 14v status #1 #2 #3 delta from 1k #1 #2 #3 key on 2.23 2.24 2.25 1K rpm 1.66 1.58 1.56 1.5k 1.58 1.57 1.54 .08 .01 .02 2k 1.52 1.48 1.44 .14 .10 .12 3k 1.50 1.44 1.41 .16 .14 .15 4k 1.49 1.45 1.45 .17 .13 .11 And yeah, I could see #2 and #3 appear to CLIMB in voltage from 3k to 4k rather than a steady drop and I didn't run her higher than 4k... I was already making enough racket. All tests were under no load, just on the sidestand in the garage. The sensor vacuum hoses are new and the tiny "restrictor" installed per factory original. I haven't run mileage checks among the three and probably won't in the near future... you would really have to travel the same road in the same traffic at the same speed. But I thought I would toss the raw data out and maybe a few of you might compare it to yours. #3 was in my bike originally and I wanted to replace it ONLY for the leak-down test... on the road the bike felt strong and smooth and the new one (#1) shows no detectable difference... but I haven't run her enough to confirm mileage changes but since I ALSO pulled and overhauled the carbs and changed the fine fuel jet to a 42.5 (from the 37.5 original) any relational results are useless... but she was consistently getting about 38 mpg before, and no, I wasn't impressed. For those that don't think it affects timing at idle... set the idle at 1k and then pull the sensor and cap the pipe...
  15. mbrood
    Although it only works in the ACC key position, isn't the fuse a blade type in a small box in front of the battery?
  16. mbrood
    I didn't know (couldn't?) Robert, so I hope you guys work it out between ya... and there IS another. If you stated so in an earlier post, I sure missed it. I know with my "other" organization, we have an "ebay" list of buyer's names so we don't step on each other's toes (less often anyway). I really don't think these are THAT rare... condition is ALWAYS the name of the game... now good condition racks for the 83, 84... THAT'S a different animal!
  17. mbrood
    Item 120321856162 closing SOON ... Item 370101830839?
  18. mbrood
    I totally agree, he was kind enough to make a list and it's quite quite a bit of "odds and ends". Even with the extra "goodies", the aggragate problems listed means it's a pig in a poke... could be a sweet deal, but prossibly a LOT more trouble than it even sounds like. Some things aren't always such an "easy fix". And what's with TWO license plates?
  19. mbrood
    His reply to inguiry: Dear mbrood, This is my brothers bike and the following is his answer: This is a 21 year old bike. It has new break pads and I just cleaned the carbs. It needs to have the master cylinders on the rear break and clutch rebuilt. It needs the computer leveling system repaired or replaced. I personally would replace it with a standard type shocks and repair the front forks. I have the new front seals and whippers. I do not have the place to work on it or some of the tools I need. The engen needs spark plugs to complete the tune up. It runs fine otherwise. The bike was sitting for a long time. The battery needs replacement. I do not know if the CB transmits. For my use I put a dual band HAM Radio on the bike. CB is not my thing any more. I have listened to the truckers on it but not in some time. I have not had the helmet or mike for it. The AM/FM works good enough in the city. I do not know about the cassette. My legs are bad. I need a small pick up like a Ford Ranger with an automatic or one of those scooters with an automatic Transmission.(nothing smaller then a 250cc.) I am disabled and can not work. I am waiting for Social Security. I would like to get about $2500 for the bike. It is great on the highway. I have put 1000 miles on it in a single day. But I have problems riding in town. But like I said It needs work. If I start putting work and money into it, the price will go up. - billb7_99
  20. mbrood
    I've a friend in England that took the mirror off, used a dremmel to cut a slot in the BOTTOM of the tensioning screw and tightened it THAT way.
  21. mbrood
    One safe way to take a Venture over gravel...
  22. mbrood
    For resurrecting a 25 year old bike that sat dormant for 12 years, it sounds like you are actually fairly lucky... and she runs! Sure glad to hear about that! The other items are those "one at a time" things, but if you come across any electrical connector, clean it and grease it... time does a number on them! Age also is nasty to those simple and weak spring clips holding the round fuses in the main panel, the age harden and often loose their spring (intermittant connection) or break (fair pain to fix). You'll also want to check the rear lower frame for cracks... this plagues that year!
  23. mbrood
    Nice lookin' dog, Kurt. Tell me, have you considered ROGAIN for him? (hee... hee... hee...)
  24. mbrood
    I think the "cupie doll" goes to Hipshot! Thanks John. That "gizmo" feels like a medium hard, rubber "encasement" and the rubber boot fits it exactly. Mine has 5 wires, Black, Green, Blue/white, White/green and white... and I don't see anything at all in the manual with those combined wires... Oh wait, the diode assembly (#11)...? On page 7-17 in the service manual, under starter system, shows "DIODE" with those wires... five... and a clear picture of "our gizmo". Pay no attention that the main schematic on page 7-1 only shows 4 wires on the "diode assembly" and those are shown as blue/yellow, black/yellow, and two sky blue wires...??? I had my doubts at first since it feels rubbery but one side looked like some electronic leads were right at the side edge, just under the "surface" so a protective boot would be a perfect choice since it gets rather wedged up there, in front of the battery... Still wondering just why the difference in the main schematic! Thanks again Hipshot, I can rest easier... and yeah, I put a small piece of double-sided tape on the "gizmo" before I put the boot back on... don't want to see it on the ground ever again. Mike
  25. mbrood
    I was putting things back together and saw this rubber boot on the ground... I've been in the left radio compartment, in and around the steering head, under and over the carbs and fuel pump and didn't see it ON something or see anything that looked like it needed it. Ok guys, where does it go... (1 1/4"L X 1"W X 3/8" high) http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/huh.jpg
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