mbrood

The only whistle that I've seen work effectively is the dear whistle... You patiently wait while your better half gets dolled up for something (or nothing) and you whistle and simply say, "Oh DEAR!" Works great and better results. I try not to do it while driving though... too much...

I have seen this on a friend's 84... most times it works fine and every once in a while it won't show charge when he starts it and it won't come "up" with increased RPM or driving it. But if he turns it off and then restarts... things are usually back to normal... NEVER had it drop down once running right. Could this be an ignition switch failure or???

Pep Boys has a spray cleaner that is designed for OLD, BAKED ON gasket removal... I had already gone over mine in the tedious old fashion with a razor blade before I spotted it when I went there for oil... Never seen or heard of it before but if it works at all, it's got to be great! Mike

Fuel Filter removal cheat Pull the two bolts holding the fuel PUMP... this allows it to swing away a bit and then PLENTY of room to get the fuel filter out.

Just put three power diodes (1n4001) in series on the OUTPUT side of the regulator... each diode drops about .7 volts so you would have 5V - 2.1v = 2.9V The diode will have a stripe on one end (cathode) and this end should be AWAY from the regulator in each case... from regulator ---|>|-----|>|-----|>|--- to opener the 25 pack is much cheaper if you want to have some spares for other projects... a mix of 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N4003, etc... the last number being the absolute reverse breakdown voltage... 100V, 200V, etc. (not a concern here!)

Thanks Ben. Looking up your number with Flatout Motor shows... SCREW,SPEC'L SHAPE (90149-05185-00) But when I look at the 86 or 89 (or 93) parts lists shows the initial number I posted... Do you have a different parts list you use rather than http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx ? Using Flatout motor's part list shows... BOLT,HEX SKT HEAD 90110-06200-00 (replaces 90110-06078-00) 4 each

You ordered the number off the parts list and it WAS a domed, allen hed bolt?

My 86 has four dome head, chromed allen bolts that hold the chin cowl on. They look nice and don't snag anything when you are wiping her down. One of mine is stripping in the allen hole so I looked up the part in Yamaha parts list: 3890110-06078-00BOLT, HEXAGON SOCKET and even in the drawing it LOOKS like a regular socket head bolt... I didn't think thesse were custom but I'd sure like to find new ones... any ideas? The normal is a socket head on the rest of the MKii bikes out there?

Corbin used pop rivets and flat washers on mine...

I don't see just the knob listed anywhere... just the full unit. "I" would be interested in a better "knob"... the design sucks. I don't think 83 even HAD a selector... 83 = 26H-24500-00-00 FUEL COCK ASSY 1 $32 at Zanotti 84-93 = 3JJ-24500-00-00 FUEL COCK ASS''Y 1 $66 same place https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/pLookUp.php I believe there was a mod about replcing one of the washers behind the front "dress plate" that made the knob turn easier... it's a spring loaded affair I believe so a little "force reduction" would sure be a solution!

superbrightleds.com sells them fairly cheap for the wedge bulbs... always use the LED color of the lens it goes behind. I've written these up several times... it's ESPECIALLY needed for those that have the front disc rotor covers... two incadescents in each side and they MELT the nice orange lens... no orange lenses are available !!!! I put a single, side illuminating LED (red) in each of my rear running light locations and they have been great! Less current (4 watts reduced to 1/4 watt for each!) http://superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR wled-r-x 120 degree viewing angle almost at the bottom of the page... 79 cents!!!

Depending on price, I am interested in 2 sets. SCI also said they offer a diaphragm with our dimensions... "Our SD-1's are pretty close full refund if they don't fit sir... Set of 4 for V-MAX VMX12 XVZ13 VENTURE ROYAL 72mm OD 30 mm ID $ 89.00 OUR PRICES ARE UP TO 10% LOWER ON OUR WEBSITE www.siriusconinc.com " Sirius Consolidated Inc. 62 McBrine Place Suite #8 Huron Business Park Kitchener, Ontario N2R 1H3 Canada 716-989-0091 (MON-THURS 9-5 EST) Fax 519-894-4111 sci@siriusconinc.com http://www.siriusconinc.com/ebayimages/SD1.jpg (under Keyster Carb kits)

Here's one for $40 that might work fine... http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=524744&langId=-1&search=160590 http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/160590_lg.gif

I would still put my money on the fine fuel jet in the fuel bowls AND the associated ports in the carb body involved. You can mask a fair amount of clogging by turning up the idle screw (as it slowly clogs), and adjusting the carb sync screws as you go. Mine always needed about 1/2 choke to start. Pulled the carbs and sent the bodies through an acid bath in an ultra-sonic tank along with the separated jets. She needs a bit of choke when it's real cold but otherwise I just hit the button. In my opinion it's impossible to clean the carb body ports without a good bath. Spraying carb cleaner around will soften the junk a bit but the bath takes it away. And ALWAYS check the condition of the carb diaphragms!

I worked on one carb that had the idle mixture screw frozen. It refused to budge. I sprayed penetrating fluid in there and let it sit for a day... and it wouldn't budge. So, I used a screw driver with a bit that fit pretty tight and a wrench... the wrench was used as a small hammer... I would tap the screwdriver dead lightly and twist CW and then CCW. I repeated this for about three minutes and then it JUST would wiggle. more penetrant and tapping and then a twist in and out and slowly but surely I was able to start getting more and more movement. Originally I had wanted to just measure how many turns from a soft bottom it was. After about a half hour I was able to get the darned thing to back out. I sprayed more penetrant in the hole and let her sit for a day, put grease on the jet threads and eased it back in going in a few turns and back about half as much and slowly was able to work it in to a soft seat, backing it totally out and wiped down the threads and put it back in to the bottom and then out to 2 1/4 turns. I was sure I was going to be buying a carb body but all is happy.

Who wants a controlling interest when he can ignore them and go do other things. Plus he gets 15% with relatively no speculation... it's a contract!!! In just 3 years of ignoring them he will have made 50% of his money back if he rolls over the investment! And Harley probably thought THEY were getting a deal!

This could also a symptom of a bad boost sensor.

Ok.. since it just showed up recently I thought there might be some recent change that could be addressed. I'll work something out. Thanks, Mike

The last couple days I've noticed that I can't go "back" to a forum... neither the mouse or the "alt back arrow" work under Netscape...??? I have to scroll to the top of the page and click on the directory tree. Strange that the "back button" works fine if I click on one of the "selected" member pictures at the top of the main forum... It works fine with IE but I tend to stay away from that...

I've heard that the wheels on the Harbor Freight motorcycle dolly are too small and need replaced... since they bottom mount, bigger wheels means higher unit... but have some of you come across a better wheel to mount (PN?)? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/95800-95899/95896.gif http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95896

Directly from the owner's manual... and why we ignore some things in an owner's manual... "Apply front and/or rear brakes to slow the motorcycle." ????? http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/shifting.jpg Note that they want you in 5th by the time you are at 31 mph when accelerating! And note the recommendations in "to decelerate #2"... one of the reasons you have to "temper" what the manual says with good ole common sense. You'd be awefully busy at 12.5 mph on deceleration!!! I've ALWAYS used the engine when decelerating, big bike, little bike, car or truck. On the bikes with HEAVY mechanical clutch linkage, it was a general rule to be in neutral at a stop in case the clutch cable broke. With the hydraulic clutch, I ALWAYS sit in first gear. You never know when the safest thing to do is grab some throttle, drop the clutch and get out of the way.

Mine was similar but near the front right corner... the gasket for the thermostat housing was hard as a rock... put in a new one and she doesn't need a "pan" under her at night.

Just from my experience of removing the fairing to get to something I should have already done... There is a VITAL ground wire point on the left side of the mount frame that holds the coils, TCI and boost sensor... clean it up and make sure it's tight. The TCI and boost sensor are mounted with SOFT philips screws to that frame assembly... normally you can't get to them without pulling the fairings and unbolting the mount plate... change them to allen heads and you can get them out down the road without a major tear down. The plastic YICS chamber above the front cylinders is a failure waiting to happen... remove it and cap the engine ports. Great time to check and clean the water temp gauge housing and connectors on the right side and check the condition of the radiator hoses... dandy time for a complete radiator flush. I would add a switch that sends the battery's 12 volts to the fan so if you are caught in traffic and she starts heating you can turn on the fan without having to watch her dig into the red... you KNOW she's going to heat up in stop and go... With it off the temp sensor will still kick in but if you KNOW it's going to be stop and go for a while, she's a lot happier with the fan. Great time to replace the speakers with some waterproof new ones... several out there that sound great and are fairly cheap. Dandy time to grease the speedometer gears in the dash assembly... and tie a string around the speedo cable and a nearby frame piece... the cable has been know to get loose, drop down and the inner drive rod falls out on the road... (cheap insurance). I would add a thin washer under each of the four screws holding the blue connectors in the bottom of the radio tray... that will make the radio seat DEEPER into them and forgo the intermittant so many experience. Pull any connector and relay and clean and grease them (with dialectric grease)... some can't be reached nicely later. Great time to lube the throttle and choke cables! Check the upper cable going to the carbs... the one mounted on the far left side of the carb bank... they like to develop a fray right where the cable exits on the carb mount holder that leads to breakage.

Great idea for a general tech section write-up with schematic and pictures? It always sounds simple to those with electrical experience and a total bewilderment to others, when a diagram and pictures solves the "mystery". So many mount extra lights to be seen but sound is an important item... how often we see someone look our way and you just KNOW they didn't recognize anything... (and these aren't small bikes !!!)

http://www.amenmotorcycles.com/Images/mlsst-hub-300.jpg The 2004 Daytona Hubless Monster by Mike Brown of Amen Motorcycles. Features the world's first hubless front and back wheels and the world's first 360 motorcycle rear tire. Check out his other bikes at http://www.amenmotorcycles.com ROGERSVILLE — Mike Brown’s unique motorcycles have been seen on TV and in movies and are much sought after by celebrities, but it wasn’t until recently that his work received an official presidential seal of approval. Well, to be exact it’s an ex-presidential seal of approval, but a tremendous honor nonetheless. Brown is the owner, operator and creative force behind the world-famous Amen Chassis Works motorcycle shop in Rogersville. One of his recent creations, “The Hubless Monster,” was among 30 original, one-of-a-kind motorcycles chosen for an exhibit that is currently on display at the Bill Clinton Presidential Library in Little Rock, Ark. The bike is an illusion, a riddle and an enigma all wrapped into one machine because it functions without a chain, spokes or axles on the wheels. When it’s on the road, Brown said The Hubless Monster looks as if it’s standing still and the road is moving beneath it. In the letter announcing The Hubless Monster’s inclusion in the exhibit, Clinton Library Director Terri Garner says of Brown, “We are proclaiming publicly that you are an acknowledged master.” And Brown’s response. “Ah shucks, not bad for an old Hawkins County boy,” he told the Times-News. Garner states in the letter, “Your art speaks for itself, of course, and this is an opportunity to let it speak to a much broader audience. It also allows the institution to say something significant about your personal impact on our culture as an artist.” The Hubless Monster will be on display at the Clinton Presidential Library until Feb. 8. From there it’s expected to move with the exhibit to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. The Clinton Library caught wind of Brown’s work thanks to two coffee table books called “Art of the Chopper I & II” by best selling author Tom Zimberhoff. Overall 90 motorcycles were featured in both books, and from that group 30 were chosen for the Art of the Chopper exhibit at the Clinton Library. Brown was the only designer to appear in both of Zimberhoff’s books, and The Hubless Monster is the only bike shown on the cover of the exhibit book given to Clinton Library visitors. Arguably The Hubless Monster has the best location in the show, only a few feet away from the most popular permanent exhibit at the library — a full-scale replica of the Clinton Oval Office on the third floor. As for the bike itself, Brown said he built it by hand from scratch in 30 days of almost nonstop work. “Hand-made tires — half a million dollars there — 350 feet of welding, 14 sets of wheels, 850 ball bearings just to make it roll,” Brown said. “The wheels don’t turn. Very confusing, backwards thinking. I’d sleep two hours, work six, sleep two hours and work six. I did that for 30 solid days.” He got the idea for the drivetrain by watching a Ferris wheel “friction drive” operate at a carnival. Essentially it’s a small wheel turning a bigger wheel without the use of gears or a chain. He reversed the rotation of the bike’s transmission, and it powers the rear tire forward by a friction connection that is hidden behind the seat. The rear wheel is connected to the frame and doesn’t rotate, and the tire is separated from the wheel by bearings. Similarly, the front wheel doesn’t turn and is connected to the forks at the bottom of the wheel, as opposed to the traditional centered axle and spoke arrangement. The effect is basically a giant empty hole in both wheels where the spokes and chain should be. The first thing people ask Brown when they see it is, does it work, and if so, how? “It’s very confusing in that it appears to not really function,” Brown said. “The day I got it done it was (painted) flat black, and it looked like if you cranked it up and put it in gear that the earth moved under it and the bike stood still. It looked that mean.” The second thing people ask Brown when they see The Hubless Monster for the first time is how long it takes for the rear tire to wear out under constant pressure by the transmission and the road. Brown’s response. “I don’t care if it lasts two minutes or 2,000 miles or 20,000 miles. It just had to be done, and that’s the way I approached it.” Brown admits that he’s a big fan of Bill Clinton. He’d even be open to letting Clinton ride the bike, but the ex-president is going to have to ask permission first. The ignition is hidden, and Brown said not many people know where to look to fire it up. “If he’s at all serious about riding, why not?” Brown said.