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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    The old "easy" method was to draw the outline on the foam and then use a soldering iron to melt out the inner cavity... normally putting a piece of velcro in the bottom to hold the speaker.
  2. mbrood
    But an 88 V-Max ignition module is 1FK-82305-10-00 and the Venture is 41R-82305-11-00 I'm pretty sure it's not anything like a direct replacement for the Venture. But there is one of those Syna modules on ebay right now... item 260421372988
  3. mbrood
    Those kits are generally for 2 cyliner bikes. I've never heard of a replacement for the Venture. But there were some revisions of that part and the most vital was upgrading from some glass diodes that were prone to go intermittant or just fail... The TCI is definitely the ignition "brain" and has two "handy" vent holes on the mounted top side that LOVE letting water in, so a bake out is definitely in order. While it's out you can check the ignition coil to plug performance... just disconnect the large white plug on the TCI, turn the ignition on and make a MOMENTARY short to ground on the wires located at pins 3,2,6 and 7 (respective) to check out each system... with the appropriate plug out, hooked up to the wire and properly grounded to chassis. Don't expect a bright spark, these systems give a lack-luster blue spark at best. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg When and if you get that TCI out... you might want to open it and pull the circuit board. Early TCI units used glass power diodes that are a: fragile and b. prone to failure... there are 8 and can easily be replced with just about anything from the 1N4000 family of ceramic coated power diodes. (1N4001=100v reverse brakdown voltage, 1N4002=200v... ) You are looking for the 8 round, gray/blue, diodes near the output power transistors... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tci1.jpg
  4. mbrood
    It's a real common 1/4" square, momentary, through hole, switch... the only variations are on the height of the push "shaft" and they ALL must be the same height, just trim down a new one if it's too "tall" or on reassembly you'll find the housing holding that button DOWN...
  5. mbrood
    Them new-fangled CD thingies are just a flash in the pan, probably never catch on. Seriously, as long as you provide a switch to open the short between pin 1 and 7 on the cassette data cable (allowing THAT cable's audio to route through the main amp), you should be able to pipe the CD's audio straight through.
  6. mbrood
    I also have to agree with the Craftsman extractor kit. And there are much better penetrating fluids out there... wd40 was designed to temporarily protect parts from water (water displacment, try number 40) I have also used these for rounded bolt heads... marvelous tools... http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952168000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies Just because you have WD40 and duct tape doesn't mean it's always the answer... yeah I know some will argue...
  7. mbrood
    I would also like to see some feedback on the "replacement diaphragms". I always heard that the specific compound was fairly critical in the CVC design (constant velocity carb). The old type were a fabric embedded in thin rubber and these new ones seem to be just rubber. My 86 also has some old ones and a couple spots coated with a thin wipe of Yamabond #4 and she pulls from low rpm quite well. Funny, I really don't know how hard she pulls at 7g or above... guess I'm treating her too much like a baby?
  8. mbrood
    http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/1stcarbs3.jpg Unmolested carbs have brass sleeves (plugs) inserted, blocking access to the idle mixture screw that is referenced. These can be drillout rather easily, just use a small drill bit and then progress larger and larger. Before you get to the carb body bore sze, the brass will spin on one of the drill bits and walk right out. In any case, this bike is over 20 years and without knowing it's maintenance history consider the screws are going to be a bit tough to screw in or out. My method is to put a wide screwdriver in there and note the ABSOLUTE rotational position on the blade... now try to carefully ease the screw IN 1/2 turn... if that doesn't work so easy, screw it a bit in then a bit out then a bit more in, etc. to clean the threads. Remember, these are FUEL jets, so turning them IN make it leaner. You REALLY want to KNOW the position of the screwdriver rotary position to start (on EACH carb) and then slowly work the screw in to a GENTLE seat as it bottoms. Now write down EXACTLY how many turns it was from the bottom originally. You may want to diddle with these jets but it's pretty vital to know where they started from so you can (at least) get back to that position. The ideal gauge to use to set these is an exhaust gas analyzer. Second would be a high resolution tachometer (no, the dash tach is worthless for this fine change) and least favored is to adjust each one for maximum rpm by ear. Adjustments on a 2 cylinder engine is easier, the change is more dramatic, on our big 4 cylinders it's tougher to notice a "fine" change. A general rule of thumb: 1.The mixture is lean if: the bike surges while holding a steady throttle at about 4000 rpm in second gear. there is excessive back-firing on closed-throttle overrun. (The main needle jet needs raised for the above) the throttle is lightly 'blipped' and the idle speed 'hangs up' before dropping to the set idle speed (set the idle to 1000 rpm to start). (turn the idle mixture screws OUT 1/2 turn or so) 2. The mixture is rich if: the plugs are excessively soot-ed up or fouled. (The main needle jet needs lowered for the above) the throttle is lightly 'blipped' and the idle speed drops below the set idle speed before rising up to the set speed. (turn pilot screws IN 1/2 turn or so) You also want to pull the plugs and clean them well (or just replace them) so you have a good visual starting point of visually watching how they are performing. Reducing the thickness of the plastic washer under the carb slide main jet will also creat a leaner fuel/air mixture at midrange and above, but the idle mixture adjustment is mainly from idle to about 2,500 rpm. And with over 20 years of operation, jets DO wear so no absolute number of "turns" is magic for all bikes. Above all, you MUST start and end with the carbs syncronized.
  9. mbrood
    The temp gauge is a variable resistor to ground. With one side of the guage tied to battery hot (signal fuse), if you bypass the temp sensor (ground the wire) you will probably wrap the needle around the top "pin" and that toasts the gauge. The resistance of the sensor varies from about 160 Ohms at ambiant to about 30 Ohms at 100c (212F). So you COULD put a 100 Ohm resistor from the temp sensor connector to ground and see a mid scale deflection... You can also just do a basic ohm check of the meter... from the connector at the temp sensor to the "signal" fuse.
  10. mbrood
    Technically, anything in basic electronics is a closed loop... current flows out one side of the battery, through all series elements and back to the other side of the battery. As Danob11 said, you want to use a normally closed type magnetic switch... so when the magnet gets close, the switch opens. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/magnet.jpg
  11. mbrood

    1st Gen trunks

    mbrood replied to cmor's topic in Watering Hole

    I believe the "fix" was a rubber washer above and below the mounting bolts on the chrome carrier... easily accomplished in a home garage... but even the later year models showed a tendency to develope cracks at the lower corners and around the bolt locations.
  12. mbrood
    It's probably a simple two section (ganged) potentiometer (pot, variable resistor) and one side is funky... Probably any radio repair shop can replace it with another of the same value.
  13. mbrood
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32943 In stock, set of four, quick delivery
  14. mbrood
    Dan, Glad to hear thet the UGLY beast is back on the road. It can sure be a lot of "little things" that can keep them silent, but when they are ready to go, they sure let you know! Now your neighbors know! Mike
  15. mbrood
    Probably nothing a little wrenching and greasing won't cure... and today is a great day for it, the noise never gets quieter... well, it does... and then you get to buy a new one.
  16. mbrood
    I believe it's the gears UP in the DASH... So disconnecting the cable at the front wheel makes the sound go away.
  17. mbrood
    I think it's an easy check to disconnect the speedo cable, secure the inner cable so it doesn't fall out and tie the whole thing back... then make a check run. The cables do need lubed but more important... the dash speedo gear train need lubed or they make noise then self destruct. Simple checks are always nice.
  18. mbrood
    A lean fuel condition can cause the rpm to be sluggish to drop... have you pulled the plugs to check the color is nice and light brown (not white and dusty.) ? You have made some big changes... time to check the plugs and see how she's running.
  19. mbrood
    Glad to hear a new stator fixed the main problems... but do you still have that black ground wire getting hot????
  20. mbrood
    I set my float level sets using a water bowl and a plastic tube on the fuel inlet... just blow slowly into the tube and lower the carb (LEVEL) into the wtaer... when the air cuts off, you have your measurement. I then reassembled and checked against the fuel pump pressure... same reading. So a water bowl is MUCH faster. My four came apart with a perfectly parallel float needle tab (parallel to the float arm), and all four had to be bent in (closer to the float arm) to get the right setting, maybe 10 degrees. While the carbs are out... use the fuel pump and pump about a quart of gas into a glass gar and set it aside to look for bits of grit... even WITH a new fuel filter! With good floats (non-sinking variety), most overflows can be cleared by... open the drain and drain all fuel (the float will now be bottomed), then turn the key on and let it pump a few ounces out the drain (flushing the needle seat), then turn the key off, and close the drain... now turn the key back on and watch for overflow.
  21. mbrood
    As I understand it... you have two CMS units and BOTH blink the battery icon... and on one, you KNOW you hooked up the sensor wire direct to 12V... so we can bet that the corresponding IC inside the CMS (TD62504P) is blown and needs replaced... not ridiculous if you have reasonable soldering skills and a good "solder sucker". If not, you can buy the chip and take the unit to a local radio/TV repair shop and they can pop it in for ya. I think you MAY not have any REAL knowledge that the replacement unit didn't already HAVE a blown IC as well. The best test is as earlier stated... hook a 2.2K Ohm resistor to 12V and the other end to the sensor wire at the bullet connector... then turn your ignition on... if the light blinks, the IC is probably fried.
  22. mbrood
    I think it's safe to say that it's far better to do one change at a time and note the changes... both mileage and spark plug condition. If you NEED to change diaphragms, do that first with a good crab sync... then put a few miles on the beast. The needle change that's recommended for the later units is to reduce the thickness of the white spacer below the needle... making the needle reach further into the carb... but this needs to be done after a spark plug check confirms that they are black/sooty... this "deeper" needle setting will cause it to run leaner and the plugs should reflect a more light brown color... but you really want to watch the plugs for the first few runs. I think the 83 actually had multi-notched needles so you can forgo the later mod and look at just moving the clip. The idle mixture screw is located just below the carb diaphragm cover... untouched carbs have a brass sleeve installed to keep you out... but are easily drilled out... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/1stcarbs3.jpg And the setting is 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 turns OUT from a lightly seated needle.
  23. mbrood
    I would always add... "individual results may vary" First thing is to check your plugs. If after a day of "normal riding" your plugs are sooty and black... moving the needles out is a good first step (leaner mixture). If your plugs are a nice light brown, this is probably NOT the mod for you. If the plugs are dusty white, you probably need to move the needles IN a bit... rather rare though. Carb sysc is ALWAYS important. I worked on one that the guy had "synced by ear"... it seemed to run ok and idled "fair" except the transition from idle was real bad and the idle screw was screwed in a LONG way. It was so out of actual sync that two cylinders were basically carrying the load.
  24. mbrood
    Now what moronic engineer decided that the fuses for the radio would be "rightly" located behing the left front turn signal??? Some things on these bikes make me really scratch my head. Glass fuses over the battery but a spade fuse block located in front of the battery...? I mean... come on... pick one type...
  25. mbrood
    I would think any carb port "restriction" would be easy to check... fire up the bike and pull the vacuum hose off the carb and cap it with your finger... even do the same with her at 2k rpm...
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