mbrood

I would look into the #1 exhaust/head junction... the gaskets are known to wear and if the rotation is right, you could darned well hear it escape the gasket as #1 came up on the exhaust stroke... running, the total sound rather masks it...

You want to clean and lube the connection from the pickup coils as well as the TCI connections. You might also service the front coil connections as well. Testing from the ignition fuse to the iside of each spark plug holder should show about 23k Ohms... 13k for the coil and 10k for the plug... anything more speaks of corrosion in the plug holder ore either end of the high voltage cable. Clean the internals of the plug holder and/or clip 1/8th " off the "green" end of the high voltage wire as needed.

They make a molding clay that takes impressions well and then can be baked in a warm oven... might make for a great send around for repairs... the lower takes a LOT of vibration. But that is basically what I did as well, except I used fiberglass and was able to both grab the inner plasic and build the tab, then drilled it later. I included a bit of the straight section of the fairing in the mold for alignment purposes.

My experince is that their email response is pathetic but the phone response and service is great... just have to know their limitations.

If you are that worried about it, you can run a thin line of Plastic Tape at the mated joint. It goes on like RTV but later on it can simply peeled right off, clean.

That's the right number for the 83-93 Venture and mine came direct from Progressive Suspension in LaPalma, CA. three years ago... same number then as well. Strangely the V-Max uses a different spring entirely (11-1144) as well as offering a lowering set of front springs.

Behind the middle gear cover (at the left footpeg) and highly recessesd is the clutch slave. The bottom most bolt of the case cover goes through into the engine case and thus has a copper crush washer for a proper seal, when the cover comes off, oil will seep out, so this bolt should be replaced in the case to stop that mess, no washer and no torgue, just an oil plug bolt. Often the kickstand switch is unbolted and the harness of it and the alternator/pickup coils bent out to make room for removing the slave. It's a Japanese twister joke of removal and replacement... it doesn't slide out... it has to be pulled back, a little twist, pull a little, twist... etc. Having the middle gear gasket and the clutch slave repair seal kit handy would be advised. Long metric allens will be needed to extract the two bolts and a rebuild kit... paying particular attention for corrosion damage on the piston and sleeve when the seals are replaced. Many opt for a simpler replacement of the whole slave. Now is a dandy time to also check for oil seepage from the fabric coated alternator and pickup coil wiring coming out the left engine cover as well as any leaks around the gear selector switch. With both the middle gear cover and left engine cover removed, you can see the recessed clutch slave directly below the balbearing on the 4" socket extension, as well as the middle gear cover bolt holding back drips. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/starter-rotor.jpg.

You should note that the Progressive spring is wound of much heavier gauge steel as well as the overall length being 3 inches longer (Progressive on top, stock on the bottom.). In the stock, there appears to basically be two wind spacings while the top is... well... progressive. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg

"I just wanna know how you get those things to stick to the wall tiles without falling off." Just like our "new" gas... with enough alcohol it's rather simple... or it seemed so at the time. (grin!)

You don't have a voltmeter handy to check those alkyline batteries... no worries, try this. I bet that you didn’t know about this simple battery test. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_m6p99l6ME]How To Test a AA battery, Easiest Way For Any Battery Fast, Easy! - YouTube[/ame]

Our bikes need the 10m thread, the standard is 12 and they offer a 10mm extension, further backing off the spark from the hole, and we don't have a LOT of room for that tall device. I have one and switched to a cheap digital tach, able to read the full 1,000 rpm. Tune one for peak then back OUT just a bit (1/8th turn?) then repeat for the others, then run through it again, always adjusting the idle to keep the 1k rpm.

Yep, auto parts store, take it with you and tell them "I need one of these" and let them grab it. Or you can pay the stealer dealer for 90183-06023-00 NUT, SPRING

It's developers partnered with Home Depot so it's a shelf item now. But it's broken down by UV so it would have to be repeated on a windshield.... don't know WHAT would take it of so you don't have buildup. My wife asked the obvious... if you spray a shirt and wear it... just HOW do you wash the shirt? I presume dry clean?

The fiche shows 1FK-16381-11-00 as the entire assembly, rome assembly - replace assembly - bleed. The rear side cover gasket should be 3JP-15461-01-00. Any copper (crush) washer is designed to be slightly formable by compression. Time hardens the copper. Put it over a gentle flame until it glows cherry red and then set aside to air cool and voila... it's annealed and once again ductile (formable). When it's all squished out to a this area under the bolt and only thick outside the bolt head, THEN you need a new copper washer and there's certainly no need for it to be a "Yamaha" part.

Constant velocity carbs function by a carefully designed air restriction intake to make the needed throat vacuum required to make the diaphragm effective and efficient. This also dictates the jet sizes to match the fuel mixture to the available air. Tearing open the airbox defeats the design of the carb. You want Webers, design for Webers. You want the Mikuni CVC, follow the design. Some small changes are always available as long as you meet the fuel/airflow requirements but there's no throttle cable control over that main intake needle, it's the vacuum developed to the diaphragm, dictated by a sealed airbox and a carefully matched opening in the lid.

Stripping the clear is fairly straight forward, then I use BlueMagic metal polish on a buffing wheel on my drill. Lowes didn't know "why" they keep it with the large shiny aluminum pickup bed tool boxes... hint, hint. It's a relatively slow process but the results are real sweet. If your corrosion is more severe, you need to get a more agressive initial compound As noted the rubber "dimples" holding the inserts in can be teased out fairly easy, getting them back in proved a challenge... take a 3" section of a drinking straw and slit it down the side, one end opens for the nubbin and the other end closes (overlaps) to go in the hole in the step and use that to compress the nubbin and guide it in, much like a seal guide tool, it's best as a three handed job.

Mounted on the top of the tray that also holds the TCI and boost sensor (bolted from the bottom), they aren't the most friendly to get to but it's do-able. The tray itself is bolted to the frame from the outside with 4 bolts and would "really like" to have the fairings off for access... but I don't believe tray removal is required. Be sure to measure the primary, the secondary and then check each one's resistance to chassis ground (or coil case). There are checks for spark length in the service manual and, no, you don't need the fancy factory tool... it's just a spark gap... easily jerry-rigged (.24"). (2.4-3.0 Ohms primary, 10.6K - 15.8K Ohm secondary) One issue that is real tough to isolate is that SOME have shown a tendency to fail with upper heat limits of the surroundings and vibration... both tough conditions to test, easier by replacement of suspect.

With the stock spring, I'm sure the designers felt it better to use a front end anti-dive to take it easy on the spring. With the advent of the Progressive upgrade the tendency of the high dive rate was eliminated, yet we still use a system designed for a spring that's not there? Look in the maintenance manual for the front spring replacement interval, that explains quite a bit on it's own. Mike

You know driving around pushes the oil leakage back (and most likely up a bit as well). Look for the most forward sign and check in that immediate area.

The rear turn signals use a single element 1156 bulb so stock is turn signal only. I just grabbed a couple bulb holder and harness used on the front turn signals (1157 bulbs) and wired them as rear turn signal with a "T" off the rear running lights to act as lower intensity markers. Careful, some states don't like amber running on the rear.

ALthough a clogged fuel line causes grief at higher demand rates (rpm), it's seldom so tightly tied to an rpm so specific. You will get gas in the carb bowl at lower rpm and be able to get on the throttle but when the bowl empties, the clogged line can't refill fast enough and she sputters. Have the carbs been synced recently? Does it sputter at 3K in all gears? If so, it sounds like you have one or two cylinders dropping out... could be carb related but would lean toward a TCI problem.

Solder is meant to be a mechanical connection with conductivity. For a break, always use a strand of copper and solder it across the break, long term it will thank you.

I thought that was why Yamaha issued Gremlins...???

A super bright LED typically drops 3.4V leaving 8.6 to be dropped by a 420 Ohm, 1/8th watt resistor putting 20 milliamps through the LED. I'm not sure about the wiring on the 2nd Gen... the 1st Gen TCI is high and pulled to ground when wired, so you could tie one leg of the LED-resistor to +12V and the other to one leg of the high side of the primary cil to show the igition circuits were working. Getting a real indication of the high voltage side (secondary) of the ignition is trickier and somewhat a hazard from sparks, but a 40,000V spark would feed through a 2 MegOhm resistor to an LED to ground. This still wouldn't tell you if the plug was firing and there's only two ways to insure, with a oscilloscope or an internal probe... both cumbersome to mount on the bike and the extension cord can be a real hassle.

Yep, an easy reminder, every minute connected to the Verizon (or any) carrier is stripping minutes off your airtime, phone, internet, GPS, etc. Even many fast food spots can get you a free WiFi link.