mbrood

I'm in for one.

The 1st gen mirrors have the bolt and tensioning spring inside behind the glass and I haven't heard anybody get the glass out and the SAME glass back in... BUT I've heard of two that cut a SLOT in the bottom of the bolt threads sticking out the bottom and using THAT to reset the tension.

Since they HAVE been discontinued, the light bars are going to end up being a hassle... When I got mine I noted the replacement lens numbers BigBikeParts Replacement Lens 900100L center red $8.06 900100LL left amber $4.46 900100LR right amber $4.46 bulbs T2-3W 10-282

I got all of the LEDs from superbrightleds.com... they are great to work with and super delivery and their site shows great specs... if in doubt give them a call. http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html The "reflector" below the license plate is a two part item that I split with repeated strokes of an exacto blade, top and bottom (the ends aren't sealed)... you might as well get a chair and turn the radio on... take some time and slowly try and make a clean cut on top and bottom. A dremel saw might work ok but it leaves a nasty edge to clean up. I clamped a metal ruler on top and bottom, aligned with the seam and let that guide the blade. With it apart, I bought some side mounted wedge bulb holders from a lamp repair shop and bolted them in and ran the wire out the back through a grommet. You could use diodes and a resistor and make them running AND brake light, I just used them as a running light. I used high temp hot glue to put the halves together... that's also what the trunk light assembly was put together with from the factory. I put all the running lights through a relay driven by an illuminated switch on the dash... I can turn them off if needed and I can "flick" them to get someone's attention behind me. I also doubled the number of wedge holders in the trunk light assembly (old BigBikeParts item) and good thing I did open it up... their factory "wiring" was quite sad... (I cut the blue wire getting ready to update all the wiring and bulbs but the black was attached by two strands.) I wired four as running and four as brake. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/bigbike5.jpg I also bought 2 light bulb harness assemblies for the front turn signal. This is a two way recepticle (1157) and you unplug the old rear bulb holder from the two trunks and put these in... You can swap the front harness connector pins out and swap them into the old two pin connector of the old bulb holder keeping THAT part of the wiring intact and just hard wire the running light up under the seat. This gives you turn signals AND running lights down there. (WARNING: Some states may outlaw yellow running lights in the rear! You want to MATCH the color of the LED to the color of the lens. This gives maximum light transfer. An amber behind a red lens greatly reduced the amber output. Match the color! I did this all a few years ago so their numbers and pricing may be slightly different. LEDs for wedge mount From superbrightleds.com... Amber bulbs that go in the front disc rotor cover are WLED-A4 and are $1.59 each (4 LED narrow beam, amber). It's VERY important to get the old incandescents out of the front rotor cover... they get very HOT in that small space and melt the yellow lens... which is flat not available. The red 9mm bayonet type bulbs are BA9s-R and are $.98 each. The bulbs I used in my upper light bar that are the blade type that I needed the light to come out sideways were WLED-R that are red, single LED, wide-inverted cone tip. These were $.87 each. Brighter Brakes and turn signals The stock bulb for the bike is #1157. specs are 32/3 candlepower. Bulb # 2357LL has the same base, plugs right in. Specs 40/3 candlepower. Running light will be the same brightness, brake light will be 25% brighter. front bumper and trunk turn signal in amber Quantity: 6 Product: WLED-5 Wide Angle LED bulb $ 2.79 (each) Options: Amber Accessory running lights/wide angle/side view Quantity: 18 Product: WLED-R Red LED bulb $ 0.89 (each) Options: Wide - Inverted Cone Tip Front disc brake rotor cover ... in amber Quantity: 4 Product: WLED-A4 Amber LED bulb $ 1.59 (each) Trunk and reflector red lights Quantity: 12 Product: WLED-5 Wide Angle LED bulb $ 2.79 (each) Options: Red I actually pulled one side of my running lights and put in LEDs and then compared the two sides. The LEDs looked MORE red and JUST as bright as the incandescent but when I swapped them all my stator/regulator loved me. It was NOT my friend with all of those incandescents burning!!! Running Light replacement lenses: Drag Specialties DS-28015 large red DS-280153 large amber DS-280168 small red DS-280167 small amber

Mine seems real happy at 70... but it's the wife that wants to go faster... I think I've created a monster. A crotch rocket went by us (highway) about 20 mph faster and she nudged me... "Can't WE do that?"

These bikes are real nasty about air leaks so I would certainly look there first. After pulling the carbs to replace valve cover gaskets and check valve lash... mine REALLY didn't want to run or idle. The filter box came off and I cleaned all around it and CAREFULLY replaced it, making sure that the boots were fully down on the carbs and then soflty tightened the clamps... she lit right up and was happy again. Some of those replacement screw kits for the carbs come with allen head bolts for the top cross brace pieces and can interfer with the upper boots fully seating, you have to "tease" them down... but look at the boots, are they down against the carb? My filter housing boots never had any silicone or rtv. They are a slip fit and tight (with the locating rubber "ear" meant to fit between the two indents (each) on the filter housing, aligning them. And don't overlook the rubber "plugs" on the vacuum ports below the carbs for cracks!

For those very fine corner stress cracks on the radio tray or like that, I picked up a small jar of liquid thin ABS model cement... it goes on with the attached brush, easy to control and works great. Any hobby shop that sells plastic model cars or...

Mine often produces whining and various other noises but does it in various gears and various speeds when I ride double... but I think I've narrowed it down to the intercom. Don't know about the rest of you... Alone, my 86 doesn't exhibit anything "odd" in the 3k range... except a real desire to see 4k...

Those "Ventureline" parts are long discontinued and come up on EBAY for over $200... and then RARELY! But you can fashion a bracket that raises the stock footpegs MUCH easier... and let you hit that "magic height".

The station select and "memo" switches are simple, cheap, 1/4" through hole, momentary open switches... almost ANY TV/Radio repair shop can toss some in or sell them to you. You can get them some other places but these 20 year old switches DO tend to corrode and fail either opened or shorted... I had enough bad ones on my 86 that I just opted to swap them ALL out of that unit... and like I said, fairly easy fix for a junior solder jocky. The MP3 probably doesn't like the input resistance seen by the amp, there are some cheap mp3 amps that can probably be put in line and adjusted to the radio level... This one is fixed amplification so yuo jut have to set the MPe level to match up. Here's one for about $30 http://www.boostaroo.com/products/R234.jpg -Boostaroo Revolution Hi-Fi Headphone Amplifier & Audio Splitter http://www.boostaroorevolution.com/audio_power_amplifiers.html

E2 = Pressure Senser sent a signal to the compressor pump to run but the pressure did not increase. It comes on after 10 seconds of "run" commanded and no pressure increase sensed. I wouldn't rule out STILL having a resolder requirement on one of the pins of the controller but by all means... jiggle the main white connector and see if the error changes.

Along those lines... why do they look at me funny at the parts store when I ask for a quart of "710" ??? It says it RIGHT on it !!! http://product-image.tradeindia.com/00340292/b/0/Filler-Engine-Oil-Cap.jpg There's some here that will say they haven't had a "moment"... but they be fibbin' !!!

I show... 41V-83980-01-00 Stop Switch Assy $34.70 at Zanotti Parts https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/pLookUp.php Are ya sure yours isn't repairable?

As Mike said (Safetyguy), you REALLY want to make sure the sight glass is ONLY half full... anything more loads the engine and frothing tosses some up into the air filter. From a cold engine, fire it up, choke if needed, but reduce the choke as soon as able and let it run just 1 minute... then shut her down. Put a hand on each cylinder and feel for even temp on all cylinders. An overly hot one talks about a carb sync issue, a cold one talks about a firing/fuel/compression issue.

Changing from 4 watt incandescent bulbs to their equivalent LED at .24 watts will allow your stator to be happy and the lighting is VERY nice... The main shortcoming of the design of these bikes is the alternator / regulator design... so we don't fight it, we work with it... I still use the large bulbs for the main brake and tail light but the other lights are LEDs. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/taillight.jpg

Our local Yamaha shop seemed to take great pride in laughing at my 86 Venture. "Out of date" and "too old to service". They would sell parts but seemed to not want to use the parts finder... "Give me a part number...". They didn't want to carry any of the bigger bikes, maybe one or two... they wanted to sell dirt bikes and 4-wheel jobs and accessories... um... did I mention accessories? An easy 3/4 of the shop was just for that. Well, I do my own work and get the few parts on-line. Imagine my surprise when I phoned them for a special, very 'cosmetic' bolt and they were out of business... over 30 year here, in the same location. But in the last 15 years they had changed. If it wasn't new AND been sold by them, they just didn't want to be bothered. One block down the street is a "generic" bike shop, always friendly and helpful, always full service booths yet they always manage to "make time" for ya. They didn't have the bolt but if I bring one in... They had a Kawasaki bolt, right type, right size... and chromed like mine... $1.40 Who says service isn't king?

You were restricting airflow, causing more vacuum that sucked fuel in... my first guess would be it's getting too much air... look for an air leak... probably a bad seat above or below the carb on the rubber intake manifold. spray some carb cleaner at the rubber joints while she's running... if the rpm changes, you found the problem. You can hook up a "spare TCI" on the cables and let it "dangle" on the side... but if you are getting spark, I wouldn't bother. You know it fires if you change the air/fuel mix... (resticted intake).

I think he means the simple right angle bracket... # 109 in the lower right... You could reaily just MAKE one with a stout piece of steel and a vise... it certainly is not unique. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/fairing.jpg

The first thing that hit me was the idea... "it ran ok before I..." There's a few things in a carb overhaul that can cause problems. Did you make sure the fuel jets in the jet body got their respective rubber plugs? (three holes, two plugs...) Did you insure the small o-ring was in place between the diaphragm cover and carb body? Did you insure the idle mixture screw below that cover was basically set to 2 1/4 turns out from a "soft" bottoming?. If the float bowl fuel levels are right and spraying something down the throat gets her to fire... something is halting or resricting gas flow. On a running engine, you can usually put your palm over the carb opening, creating a vacuum, and get your hand "gas wet" from the suction... but first I would simply pull that spark plug. If it's dry, it's back to checking INSIDE that carb. If it's wet, it may be simply (?) flooded... leave the plug out for a couple hours to dry out the cylinder and give her a second try. Things to look for on disassembly, is the gasket under the jet block cracked and leaking, are the jets in their "respective" holes, are the rubber plugs correctly seated.

http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/cb rig.jpg

The '90-'93 uses the 3JJ-82305-11-00 igniter unit. Earlier units (except 83) use the 41R-82305-11-00 They will be embosed on the top. Plus the early units have an 6 pin and 8 pin connector and the '90-'93 probably has a smaller one for the 6 pin...(inputs) Here's what the 84-89 look like though. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tci unit.jpg

Magically there is JUST enough cable slack to route them up, inside the frame, and up above the airbox. But before that, mix some baking soda in a small glass of water and use a small brush to wash down the connector.. this will need rinsing and a bit more "painting" but that will get the "battery puke" off, repeat untill the "mixture" stops foaming, rinse and then smear in some dialectric grease. If the pins really need it, they are secured in the housing with a "locking ear" on each pin. From the wire side there is an extra "square" cutout in the housing of each pin for a retractor tool... probably $6 at an electronic shop.. BUT, you can "borrow" a large bobby pin from your wife and the straight side majes a dandy extractor. Push the pin IN, using the wire, push the extractor "blade" all the way down the square slot to push the "locking ear" back and then pull the wire... the pin should slide riight out for close and personal cleaning.

Often when a switch starts acting up, it needs the contacts CLEANED not just lubricated. They are a moly-copper so there is a tendency to corrode some but the contact points can get a carbon "button" build up from the small spark of make or break. Clean these with fine emery cloth, a good lube of dialectric and they should be trouble free for another 20 years! Don't forget to lube the ball bearing and it's race in the toggle.

Progressives in the front or excess rear air pressure will both normally make the bike lean much more than stock. With Progressives, I reduced the spacer thickness on top of the spring and she sits just fine now... I have a lot less "worry" about stressing the sidestand. That sidestand bolt takes quite a load, don't think any "Ace Hardware" bolt will suffice. Even with a good bolt and relatively little side to side shimmy, there's still a bit up up and down on mine (1/4"?) when she's on the centerstand.

WD40 is WATER DISPLACING... but a very poor long term lubricant. good ole alchohol will also suck up the water. A small can of compressed air in the tool kit is a great item! Personally I like to pack the housing with diealectric grease and be done wit it.