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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    What did the "bad one" look like? What were the resistance readings?
  2. mbrood
    It's a typo... they meant Venture Royale... not Vista Royal. Fit's 83-85
  3. mbrood
    Probably it's a stress test for your heart... very important information prior to any surgery. Typically they inject a series of meds that "race the heart" while they monitor B/P, pulse and saturation. Mine told me I "might" have halucinations if the meds were too strong for me (I'm small)... drat, no such luck. But there ain't no doctor or nurse that ain't telling me the whole story up front!!! They work for YOU! If you don't understand what they want to do, MAKE them...!!! BTDT
  4. mbrood
    Right under the seat is your desired wireing and a nice handy "cavity" for any bulky electronics.
  5. mbrood

    Sick ! Sick!

    mbrood replied to Bubber's topic in Watering Hole

    Can't you just switch over to snow tires and color it good? Your state legislature is letting you down... California ordinance requires all snow to stay in the mountains where it belongs.
  6. mbrood
    I tore mine apart and with the molded top, it was NEVER going back together. But here are the "contact faces"... doesn't really look that bad... but all mine would do was go "click"... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/solenoid.jpg
  7. mbrood
    Paypal sent for two... my old one keeps coffee warm for a few minutes... grr...
  8. mbrood
    With each activation, the coil inside energizes and pulls a plunger down that bridges the two HEAVY lugs, sending major current to the starter Each make and break generates a little spark. Over time those little sparks build up spots of carbon and eventually the contact resistance rises to a point where it's not enough to turn the starter and it just goes "click". Old automotive solenoids were easy, pull them apart and swipe a file across the contacts. These are sealed units and have to just be replaced. starter relay 36Y-81940-00-00 $46.59 at zanotti There have been a few substitutes mentioned in the past. Just remember you want one that was designed for the heavy current load these starters put on them.
  9. mbrood
    Have you tried these? They have a spiral gripping socket that worked wonders for me... http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/9990000031818111?hei=600&wid=600&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0 http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952160000P?keyword=bolt+head
  10. mbrood
    Boy, it's starting to look like we all need to carry the basic tools and a spare TCI? I always have basic tools, hoses, fuses, rope, tape and rags... but a spare igniition brain? Well, I guess compared to a tow job, it's cheap... Glad you are back up and running, Monty!
  11. mbrood
    This is for anyone who was stationed or lived at Camp Lejeune between 1957-1987. Evidently there was some sort of chemical in the drinking water during this time. The Marines are sending out letters, but just in case you haven't heard yet... http://www.bergall.org/temp/marines.jpg
  12. mbrood
    You nailed it Rick, Those are the overflow tubes mounted to the top of each carb's float bowl. One of the carbs probably has a bit of grit caught between the fuel bowl's float needle and it's seat, letting the fuel pump overfill the bowl and out the overflow. Try tapping on that carb with the wood handle of a screw driver or shut the bike off... starting at one carb, open the fuel drain screw (item a in the picture) and drain the gas into a clear jar (looking for grit and water)... now turn the ignition on and fresh gas will flush the now open float needle. let a bit of gas flush through then close the drain screw. Repeat on each carb. Then fire her up and check again. On very early Ventures, it's been "heard of" for one or two to develope a float with a leak that fills up and sinks causing this problem... no resolution there but to replace the float from the dealer. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/1stcarbs3.jpg
  13. mbrood
    Cracking: For heavy crude, but also for the heavier fractions of the light crude (since in both cases we would like to end up with about 45% gasoline), requires that we crack (or split) the higher carbon molecules into lighter or lower carbon ones. For example say we have a molecule of Cetane (16 carbon & 34 hydrogen atoms or C16H34) if we heat this to a high enough temperature, then we can break it down into some Octane (C8H18), some Hexane (C6H12) and some Ethylene (C2H4). But, obviously, what we would like to do is to control what it is that we break these heavier molecules into, and how much of each we produce. And so we get into the world of cracking oil. After the crude oil has been separated into the different fractions, the gas-oil fraction is then fed to a second heating process, where the fluid is brought back up to a high temperature (perhaps around 735 deg C 1400 deg F) and mixed with a finely powdered catalyst (hence the "cat"). Steam is also added to help with the movement of the mix, and the combined mix is fed up a pipe (called a riser) into a tank and as it flows up and into the tank the gas-oil breaks down into the lower carbon molecules. This happens very quickly, so that by the time the mix is in the tank, the heavy molecules have broken down, and so can be drawn off. However the catalyst has first to be removed, which happens by passing the flow through cyclones that spins the flow and separates the heavy catalyst, which is collected and fed down a pipe back to be reclaimed and re-used. It needs to be processed since, in part, the process is not perfect and carbon will be deposited on the particles of catalyst, blocking its action. (It can be burned off - providing some of the heat for the process). The catalyst can then be re-used. One operation might use the catalyst at a flow rate of some 55 tons/minute. The hydrocarbons that flow out of the cracking process are then separated into different fractions, depending on the season more gasoline or distillate might be desired, but the process might yield about 8% coke, 55% gasoline, and 12% light gas oil with about 10% of the flow being a sufficiently heavy product that it is sent back to be run through the process again. Light gas oil becomes diesel and furnace fuel oil. The lighter gas products are usually sent to alkylation or reforming, where the lighter molecules can be combined to give products that can be blended into gasoline.
  14. mbrood
    Putting a "T" between the petcock and the fuel pump should show no problem as long as the main tank isn't full. The pump would backfill the main tank and the liquid pressure head would remain basically unaffected. On the 1st gen, the fuel pump runs as long as the tach signal is present...
  15. mbrood
    Mine shows 1/2". About 1/4 inch of spring, another 1/4 inch of light compression and she begins to engage.
  16. mbrood
    Did you see the way the tach drug at 2,500 along with the "ticking"... and the ticking was present reving up and down. It was idling at 500 so THAT makes the idle sound like junk but all Ventures sound like that at half the prescribed idle rpm. But she should rev and drop clean... this one doesn't. I would walk away from it.
  17. mbrood
    The stock trunk refelctor is VERY thin and I've never heard of anyone "breaking in". The optional (and discontinued) BigBikeParts trunk light kit has lenses held on with hot glue so cautious use of a hair dryer will get them loose. I have opened the YAMAHA reflector below the brake light and installed wedge holders and lights. You clamp a straight edge along the seam between the red lens and black housing and using an x-acto blade... run it time after time over the seam until you get through... this will leave you a clean edge that can he hot glued or RTVed back together. I have also changed the single filament rear turn signal bulb holders to the ones used in the front which gives you the yellow rear "running light" as well as the turn signal. LEDs go a long way to lighting up the bike without the horrendous current draw of incandescents! This is what folks see when "I" hit the brakes! http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/rearlight.jpg
  18. mbrood
    As described, the TCI puts a ground to each coil to get a spark. The tach is hooked up in parallel with the #2 coil so if the tach is losing signal, so is #2 plug. Most of the "new bike" problems are related to crusty, corrosion on the connector pins on the TCI and in the harness connections from the pickup coils, alternator outpput and regulator output. Check and clean and you might be surprised. You can JUST get to the TCI connectors from the left side with just the side covers removed,
  19. mbrood
    I want to put a MKII unit on an 84 that currently has the choke rotating about the grip, awkward at best. Let me know. (mbrood@bergall.org)
  20. mbrood
    Um... the 90-93 models used a CDI and it was designed for the single pickup... The 83 model was also different, so you need to stick with 84-89 TCI versions.
  21. mbrood
    I'm looking for the left handlebar controls (switches and choke..) Mike
  22. mbrood
    Have you pulled the plugs recently to see what they look like? Is she synced?
  23. mbrood
    I'm looking fo the right fairing component carrier... the black plastic that houses the CB and CLASS with the flip up door for water access...
  24. mbrood
    Resitor mod: If you are trying to add the resistor to a "hot system" and see the light go out... it won't... you have to turn the key off and back on for the computer to initially SEE the resistor... but either resistor should work... they are just current limiting resistors, directly connecting the line to battery fries the detector chip in the CMS.
  25. mbrood
    Some of the shorter of us find the floorboards keep the legs out more and decreases the ability to plant your feet. And the floorboard brake IS a whole lot different... you DO have to lift your foot onto the pedal and just takes a bit to get used to. I have a 29" inseam but rather enjoy using the boards.
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