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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    And here I thought it was a punch mark on the engine case next to the serial number...
  2. mbrood
    Besides the bottoming issue, it might be an indication that your front springs are over the hill, letting the bike settle too low. I put Progressives in mine and then the lean angle was horrendous so I took out the plastic "preload" and she now sits with the "proper" lean.
  3. mbrood
    Got to agree with dingy, no real reason to have extra "stuff" that's really not needed. That port should run straight to a restrictor and then the pressure sensor... lots cleaner and less chances for leaks.
  4. mbrood
    I would get some electrical contact cleaner spray and a small brush, tilt the board with the worst end down so everything "drains". Let it sit for an hour or so to "gas off" and then inot the kitchen oven at 150 for another hour or so. It looks like the glass bue and gray diodes were upgraded but I would still replce the orange ones with ceramic coated 1N4000 series diodes. The power transistor turns on (grounding the low side of the ignition coil primary) and when it turns off the field collapses and back voltage is seen at the transistor but is sent to ground by the diode, protecting the transistor.
  5. mbrood

    New Play Toy

    mbrood replied to Condor's topic in Watering Hole

    At least we can all rest easy knowing it's not another 1st gen Venture. Then again, he IS missing an 83, 85, 86, 88, 89 and 92... hardly seems right not to fill the void, huh?
  6. mbrood
    The seat is held with 2 10mm bolts, each side about where the passenger's legs would be. As you've probably seen... The switches send 12v to CMS when applied, the CMS then sends the 12v to the lamps. Since the running light works, the common ground is good... so you narrowed it down to the CMS and hopefully you just have a grungy connector limiting current and that needs attention... otherwise... ya gotsta get a new one... in my opinion.
  7. mbrood
    you can also pull the B/W wire from pin "D" (ignition inhibit) on the TCI disabling the sidestand relay, starter circuit bypass relay and the sidestand switch. Care must be taken as she WILL start in gear... but if the "intermittant" disappears, you narrowed it down. If it still acts up, you get to look at the kill switch and tip-over relay for problems.
  8. mbrood
    There is an interim white connector behind the left side panel, behind the driver's leg, about 1/2 way up the vertical frame member. The early units had five wires to support four pickup coils and a common ground. this ran to the TCI. The last few year had only one pickup coil so would only have two wires and these led to a different unit... the CDI. Totally different unit. You can ohm at that interim connector and then on to the CDI connector. the only thing you lose from this drawing is three of the coils. (I would imaging the CDI uses pin C but I have no real knowledge) http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg
  9. mbrood
    I would look at getting a cheap screwdriver with a flat tip that just fits into the hole and then grind the rest above the tip so it slides in. You want the widest blade you can get in there. I bought a specialized carburetor adjustment screwdriver. It has two blades that spring apart to a wider blade. When the smaller green section (and attached tube) is moved toward the blade, it forces the two pieces closer which increases the GRIP by making the flat blade thicker, capturing the screw head in the slot... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/screwdriver.jpg Had the same idle mixture jet problem. First, you need to apply some "penetrating fluid" not WD40... that's a good temporary lubricant but too thick to really get in there (PB Blaster, liquid wrench are popular). Then, my solution still took a bit more than a day of nudging the screw that LITTLE bit that it would move one way, then back... then CW then CCW, back and forth and back and forth then an application of more penetrant and a wait, then back at the routine... it would allow a bit more turn but not darned much... eventually it backed out. Then another shot of penetrant on the threads of the jet and a good clean up then more penetrant in the hole and on the jet and used it to "chase" the threads cleaner so I could achieve a gentle "seat" and then back out and more cleaning... finally chasing everything out with a shot of penetrant into the TINY hole in the throat of the carb to blow junk out the empty idle jet hole. It WAS a total bear and I did envision having to buy another carb but gentle and persistence pays off... plop your rear down with a GOOD fitting screwdriver (and maybe a beer) and take your time. If you can't see "daylight" clearly through the idle jet hole (flashlight down the throat) then you will need to pull the carb to get that orifice cleaned properly... do NOT chase a wire in there!!!
  10. mbrood
    you can see that the red line comes out of the TCI and feeds the #2 coil primary (low), the fuel pump (27) and the tach (21). This is a +12 volt line that is pulsed to ground when the pickup coil swings by (obviously) so it acts as a "keep alive" for the fuel pump and it has to be "counted" by the tach... I think you may have problems up in the tach at the dash... if the horn works, that line feeding fused +12v to the tach should be ok... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/schematic-tach.jpg
  11. mbrood
    everything from the five-pin held on the false gas cover and inside are stock parts... everything from there to the helmet was from other manufacturers... J&M and Chatterbox are very popular and the interim cable (from tank to helmet) is made to match... Sierra Electronics is popular vendor.
  12. mbrood
    New plugs are in order after giving the two front cylinders time to air out. Do they fire up if you spray some carb cleaner down the throat of the carb? Has anybody messed with the idle mixture screws? If you had synced them before and they are still pulling approximately the same, that tells you that the piston, valves and rings are doing a reasonable job of pulling air in. If the TCI isn't responding, it's tied directly to the #2 output of the TCI and the bottom of the primary coil in the ignition coil. You can ohm this to the ignition fuse and should see about 3 Ohms. You can also Ohm the plug holder to the ignition fuse and see about 24K. By the way, there are FOUR independent pickup coils and these need checked for proper resistance and also ohmed to the engine case to check for grounded coils. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/alternator-a.jpg
  13. mbrood
    The sending unit is simply a wire wound resistor with a sliding wiper... the manual calls for a simple resistance check... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/gas-gauge.jpg
  14. mbrood
    Slam on the brakes hard and YOU go round and round... what a hoot !
  15. mbrood
    Just as Dingy said... picture #2... bolt, spring (4), washer (5) then filter with attached rubber grommets... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/oil-filter.jpg
  16. mbrood
    He's got a small outboard buried down there and just enjoys "teasing" the community. Although he says he HAS fished off it a couple times.
  17. mbrood
    mine was about 1/2'... that's a LOT of bending... I just figured another bike must use a different length and found one.. Now I wish I knew what it was off...
  18. mbrood
    Here's the progressive (top) without any PVC spacer (I'm 120 pounds and there ain't enough lead to put in my pockets to get a 1" spacer AND get that nut on... ) and the stock spring with it's 3" metal insert that's no longer needed (bottom). As noted, the amount of spacer should be dictated by the weight of the driver, but with 1/2" spacer, my bike leaned so far over on the side stand that I had to "jerk it" up and that was going to lead to problems... as well as the stress on the side stand. With my 29" inseam, she sits as low as I can get her when upright and stands with a slight lean on the sidesstand and that's fine. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg Yeah Randy... I finally just took the stock centerstand spring to a couple bike shops asking for one "this much" shorter... Amazing how many shops couldn't figure that out... all they knew was the microfische "What bike is it on..."
  19. mbrood
    I believe the original came with a 1" PVC spacer, so each side got 1/2" on top on each side.
  20. mbrood
    With every clamp loose and letting penetrant spray on each joint soak for a few hours... I would think it best to pull forward on each front exhaust downpipe while trying to wiggle verticalling in a circle... rather like a small wiggle to get things to move just a hair, which should become a smidge, which goes on and on until you have it.
  21. mbrood
    I'm convinced most manufacturers are now only interested in dollar turnover so they are going more and more for "modular" technology... make it as cheap as you can and then seal it up tight so the options are reduced to remove and replace. One of the beauties of older cars and bikes is that most of the items can be taken apart, cleaned and put back together. Those manufacturers wanted their vehicles staying on the road. Roadside maintenance became a standard option. Now with a newer vehicle, it's often a "dead vehicle" that has to be towed away for costly repair. One manufacturer of regulators said they sealed the units because they couldn't have the "liability" if the owner opened it up and didn't repair it "properly". I guess they have some credibility with high schools not carrying auto shop and no technical training for basic maintenace and repair. I grew up with a dad that taught us mechanics as well as having auto, wood, metal shop classes in school. But there's still no reason for a $600 fuel pump/filter/gauge...
  22. mbrood
    It also helps if the dog is a natural clown... http://www.bergall.org/temp/ella/262.jpg And wants to help with yardwork... http://www.bergall.org/temp/ella/ella-12.jpg Of course after yard work there's some cleanup needed... http://www.bergall.org/temp/ella/ella-14.jpg
  23. mbrood
    A good compression check would involve a wide open throttle and a "quick" turn over of the engine with the starter for three of four compression strokes. Trying to hold any "rubber tipped" tool down into a DEEP recessed plug hole and firmly against the seal for all of that is near impossible if not just awkward as heck. A screw in connection is THE standard... same for a quality leak-down tester.
  24. mbrood
    A good compression check would involve a wide open throttle and a "quick" turn over of the engine with the starter for three of four compression strokes. Trying to hold any "rubber tipped" tool down into a DEEP recessed plug hole and firmly against the seal for all of that is near impossible if not just awkward as heck. A screw in connection is THE standard... same for a quality leak-down tester.
  25. mbrood
    When changing a light "temporarily" fixes the problem... it's possible that your jiggling things around made a temporary "better" connection. You can always run separate hot wire to the bulb and prove if the grounds are good.
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