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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    Running Light replacement lenses from Drag Specialties DS-28015 large red DS-280153 large amber DS-280168 small red DS-280167 small amber
  2. mbrood
    The top spring is the Progressive, smoothly progressing in compression pressure. Did you measure the length of yours in comparison?
  3. mbrood
    The upgrade Progressive springs come with some PVC preload spacers. Being a light-weight, I didn't use any... here is the Progressive spring (top) and the stock spring and 3" spacer tube that goes away with the upgrade. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg
  4. mbrood
    Even if you want an accesory always hot, it pays to use a separate switch, if it shorts, you have an emergency cut-off and with spade connectors, you have an easy pigtail disconnect when you pull the trunk.
  5. mbrood
    On cleaning the TINY 37.5 pr 42.5 jet: These are TINY, and the orifice is a highly calibrated opening, any ream that removes even a tiny bit of brass changes the opening. The crud that builds up there, reduces the fuel flow (requiring choke to idle). I finally resorted to taking my parts to an auto speed shop who tossed them in an utrasonic acid bath with a bunch of "their parts"... cost was about $15 bucks but the parts came out looking totally clean and revived. If in doubt, replace the jets. The other jets have fairly large orifices and cleaning is much simpler... but oh those tiney ones are so important to a good idle and low end mileage !! As was said, those rubber plugs are crucial, if in doubt, replace them, no sense getting in there any more than needed, right?
  6. mbrood
    I agree that the first valid check is to look at the plugs, but first you need to correct the plugging of the YICS ports to individual plugs. The 83 was unique for having a "special" TCI and the pressure sensor pulls vacuum from above the venturi. But it sounds like a possible timing issue and that drops to the Pressure sensor and the TCI. The 8 glass, blue/gray, power diodes is a major failure point on the older TCI units, a real pain to remove for repair but sincerely a requirement.
  7. mbrood
    Normally engineers will select the connector for the contact connection area to insure that they can carry 200% of the expected current. With the stator outputting about 35 amps max, that's about 11 amps per connector and with those small connectors, it doesn't take long for corrosion to reduce the contact area, resulting in the heat generator you have. The most practical (in my mind) is to maintain the harness integrity and replace the three-pin connector with a more sturdy one, more able to handle the current. Then you can still pull the stator when needed or you can access the wires for testing. If you have the originals, please insure that they are kept clean (male and female) and that the female isn't "sprung", causing less compression on the male. These pins can be backed out of the housing using a large bobby pin to retract the locking ear holding them in (enter from the wire side where the extra "space" is... properly cleaned and re-tensioned, ease them fully home so the locking ear engages.
  8. mbrood
    Here's some roads that just scream for a slow and easy ride... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/routes.pps
  9. mbrood
    Looks like a Slipstreamer... product # S140 http://cdn-9.psndealer.com/e2/dealersite/images/ec0433/s140_400.jpg I actually really like the lexan unit from Precision Plastic Products, Inc 111 East Eighth Street Gibson City, IL 60936 Phone: (217) 784-4920 Phone: (800) 245-3774 Fax: (217) 784-8988 E-mail: sales@precisionlexan.com You can see the width and also the "break" (bend) on the outer edges that toss the wind to the side. Quite effective. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/precision.jpg
  10. mbrood
    The cable with adjuster goes to the top, and sets in the ferrule near the outside (that's the pull open cable).
  11. mbrood
    A courier pointed to the location, our intelligence confirmed it, our government approved it and our fantastic SEALS dropped in and did an "in your face" maneuver. He had said he will never be taken alive and our SEALS granted him his wish. You can't stop a snake by taking nips at it's tail. A new head may grow but it won't have the same stature and sure won't be poking it's head up very high.
  12. mbrood
    These were made by BigBikeParts... out of production and discontinued but they still had some lenses a few months ago. And, from the factiry, the lenses are hotglued in, so a low temp hair drier or CAREFUL use of a heat gun will slowly bring the lens and holder up to temp. It's easiest to ease the big red lens out from one end, then work on the yellow ones. If in doubt about the heat, use less and longer... the holder is plastic too and softer than the lenses. Take care! BigBikeParts Replacement Lens| 900100L center red $8.06 900100LL left amber $4.46 900100LR right amber $4.46 Since they are side mounted lamp mounts, superbrightleds.com has some dandy replacement bulbs... remember to use red LEDs behind the red lens... any guesses where the amber ones would go? You want the side emitting variants... if in doubt, cll them... super folks to deal with. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/bigbike5.jpg
  13. mbrood
    If the drawing is "literal" you can see by the "tab" that the left side (as viewed from the "tab") is common to +12V. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/cbr1000.jpg http://cbr.deathace.net/gfx/2008_uk_wd.jpg
  14. mbrood
    Flatout Parts has the 85 bike's nomenclature messed up (VMX12N???) but they DO show the same item number (22) and also list it at $5.07! http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=735601&category=motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1985&fveh=20015
  15. mbrood
    I would think with the MANY revolution it sees, there's really only the options of replacement gears or replace the unit. Quick fixes here just don't sound right.
  16. mbrood
    I would also pull the lever, plunger and spring and lean down and see if the master cylinder piston is seated back fully against the circlip... they can build crud in there and the piston stops early (= sloppy lever). If you are changing the master fluid, I would go ahead drain the reservoir and lines and use some right angle circlip pliers and pull the master piston, bushings and spring to check them out and any cleanup. It might be easier on the refill and bleed proceedure to crack the banjo at the reservoir to bleed air trapped there (with plenty of protection underneath).
  17. mbrood
    "cold enough to freeze" Actually there is no such thing. The rolling deck of a fighting ship was kept clear of anything not required for sailing. Balls and powder were kept below decks and passed up as required during batle. Can you imagine a bunch of 10 pound shot rolling around on a pitching deck? Neither could they.
  18. mbrood
    The "shade tree" method is to rotate the engine until the cam lobe is opposite the lifter, then take your measurements. You have the very thin feeler gauges, right? One with a .030 for points isn't going to work. Intake: 0.0043-0.0059 Exhaust: 0.0063-0.0079
  19. mbrood
    A good hint was that it would be wise if the permit was issued by the same state as the tags on the trike.. It should be easy to get someone here to help in the contact and see if you can get a temporary issued... that removes all doubt.
  20. mbrood
    The gas gauge is a resitive wire, wrapped around a non conductor. As the level gets to full or empty, the wiper is picking up the extreme votages... you can ohm the two terminals on the sender unit (under the seat) and see if it reads : FULL 30 Ohms or less HALF 150-180 Ohms EMPTY 300 Ohms or greater. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/gas-gauge.jpg The side stand going down should put a ground on the side stand relay coil, closing the contacts putting ground (through the relay) to pin "D" (ignition inhibit) on your TCI, killing the ignition. Sounds like dirty contacts on the relay. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg
  21. mbrood
    Here you go guys. A suggestion for your next vacation. I would have killed myself just getting the bike off of the camper. This bicycle ride is over the top! Mesmerizing!!!!!!!!!! Beautiful landscape! This is awesome to watch till the very end. What a talented, and strong guy! http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=Cj6ho1-G6tw&vq=medium
  22. mbrood
    Sounds like a simple anti-theft device too !
  23. mbrood
    Think she's trying to tell me something? http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/marriage.jpg
  24. mbrood
    Although you have paperwork to support work done, there's an easy thing to check... pull the plugs. It speaks volumes. If they are light, light brown or even white, the idle mixture is probably set lean and needs opened a bit for "that plug". If they are balck and/or sooty you are set rich and the opposite should be applied. Normally 1/4 turn is enough to cause a change.
  25. mbrood
    And on these 20-something year old bikes, you can GREATLY reduce the resistance by greasing the bolts that hold the center stand. Pry one coil with a screwdriver until you can wedge a penny in. Then switch sides and repeat, move up one coil and repeat... Pretty soon the coil will be slack and you can get the bolts out easy. Removing the pennies afterward is still helped with that screwdriver.
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