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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    First I would pull the plugs and see what condition they are in... do you remember what they USED to look like? The most desired is light brown or tan...
  2. mbrood
    The need to resolder the connector pins on the CLASS is easy to prove, hold the aring harness to the left and turn the bike to ACC... then turn it off, hold the harness to the right and repeat. Different codes is the clear indication to resolder the pins.
  3. mbrood
    I finally found a bike for when my wife is in one of "those" moods... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/motherinlaw.jpg
  4. mbrood
    The lower half of the lower manifolds have a steel insert (to mount with) so cracks down there are really just cosmetic. You can use a scrap of paper to block the spray so you can get a better handle on WHERE it's leaking. I used a Yamabond 4 on my o-rings just as a precaution. Yeah, you gotta pay attention where the long bolts and short bolts go...
  5. mbrood
    86 VR... And the tire pressure gauge is within a pound of my expensive digital. Looks like you are missing the large box end and I am missing the adjustable wrench... I did find the short extension in there when I was repacking. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/toolbag.jpg
  6. mbrood
    As the disc wears it will develop a lip on the outer edge where the brake pads don't engage and this is probably hanging your caliper, collapse the pads with a pry and it should slide right off.
  7. mbrood
    You want to GENTLY scrape it off with a strong blade. It sounds like you developed a cold solder joint on one of the diodes or the edge connector... you want to heat JUST the pin or the leg and let IT heat the solder, THEN add a TINY bit more fresh solder. Most folks heat the pad and the solder melts, but this doesn't allow the leg or pin to heat enough to adhere to the solder, when that happens you only have a weak mechanical connection that gets worse over time. The orientation of the BLUE end of the old diodes should match up with the stripped end of the replacements! http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tci2.jpg
  8. mbrood
    He can keep the bike, I want that trailer !!!
  9. mbrood
    I have a 93 Cougar v-6 needing a new head gasket, I'm an old scholl kid so when I see a kit with graphic head gaskets at the parts store I back off real slow... Like I said, I have no familiarity but always thought a good ole metal head gasket sealed well but also REALLY helped transfer that heat. And I still say aluminum heads are junk! Anyone have some real info on this variant? I know Ford offers the metal ones but they want my next born for them... but if that's the proper route...
  10. mbrood
    It sure would... same basic engine.
  11. mbrood
    With the controller open, you can ohm the switch... it should short on BOTH segments left side to right. If not... Get 'em from Mouser Electronics; www.mouser.com $.26 each Mouser p/n 688-SKHHAM, manufacturer p/n SKHHAMA010 6.0x6.0x5.0mm
  12. mbrood
    the technique most used is a small artists brush with good quality paint. Let the paint set up for about an hour and then GENTLY buff the button to get the paint off the flat. It's important NOT to use any real pressure and you must keep the buff cloth TIGHT around the finger so it doesn't dig into the groove... buff lightly, repeatedly with a flat clean cloth, any texture will grab the groove.
  13. mbrood
    Since you see it's not the easiest thing to get those lenses off, it's a REAL advantage to replace the turn signals as well... incandescent bulbs have a habit of burning out... might as well finish the job right and be done with it.
  14. mbrood
    It's not uncommon to get a nick in the tube that damages the old and then the new seal. These are very often just polished out and you are good to go. I've also heard of a few "after-market" seal replacements that leak almost as soon as they are rebuilt... Yamaha parts are a must here.
  15. mbrood
    Computers are nice and can provide vast knowledge but to get specific answers you need specific questions... and rarely does any cross-correlation occur. The biggest thing a computer does now is enable one not to think or reason... aka McDonald's clerk... But there lies the big problem, if the kids don't stop to think, reason and consider, the whole world of invention and education eludes them... rather scary, actually. When I was a kid, my uncle was lamenting about the extraordinary cost of a new alternator for his Cadillac and dad calmly told him to use the same year from a big Buick. He said, "Same factory, same parts". My uncle was upset... "This is for a CADILLAC !" "Then pay the high bucks and be happy!", dad replied. Uncle never said what he bought. Dad was a master mechanic and taught a lot of that stuff but mostly how to look and imagine. He threw the front wheel drive assembly from a Jeep under the rear of his Jeep. Welded up a coupling arm to a transfer case from some farm equipment and had four wheel drive and four wheel steering. He thought it would be a scream. Well it was, that puppy could turn around and bit it's own tail but it was very shaky to drive, extremely sensitive steering but got tons of looks from folks when he turned around in our driveway! Donuts in the field were VERY small... Let me tell you, the feeling of having the rear come around was a bit unsettling. He chucked the idea for the "long haul". I always loved yard sales and antique stores for the tools and equipment, often looking at some unique item that seemed to have no worldly use... would have to stop, inspect and think. Really liked it when they stumped me. Found such a thing in a "barn sale", it had rollers like an old wringer washing machine but in front had two blades in front, one upper and one lower that would close when another handle was used... I went all around my head and finally had to ask. The old guy got a silly grin a and said it was for the woman of the house who couldn't stand to touch the "smelly stuff" on a dirty diaper... he called it "the stripper". I thought it was hilarious, dad calmly asked, "So who cleans the blades?" Thinking outside the box didn't used to be an art form, it was necessity. Simple things are beyond many folks these days... got a roll up blind (remember those) that pulls one side faster (uneven roller)... put a thin rubber band on the small side. Simple, cheap and permanent. Rough hands or feet? Spend $100 on the recommended lotions or buy some cow teat balm for under $5. I guarantee that the balm does a much better job.
  16. mbrood
    Yep, the heat guns come in medium and high temp and the adhesion increases with temp. And, of course, the "glue sticks" need to follow the gun temp.
  17. mbrood
    About 1988 the Venture revised the R&R, thus eliminating the need for the brown (regulating) wire. On the ones before that, the brown wire came from the ignition switch, returning "line" voltage to the regulator, if the "line" was low, the regulator allowed all available voltage to flow, when the regulating "feedback" reached about 14.5 volts, the regulator clamped any further voltage increase, shunting the remaining to ground. Although connections (mate between male and female pins) is highly suspect on older machines, please don't discount or overlook the crimp on each pin as well. Although a mechanical connection is not superior to a fully soldered one, they can be maintained and serve well. My experience has shown that the higher failure at connections was when the female's clamping tension is reduced from repeated disconnects or just plain fatigue, often cured by simply increasing the clamping force and a good electrical cleaning. The service manual steps you through testing the rectifier diodes but leaves nothing for the regulator section. If you have a significant voltage difference between the red wires coming out and the brown wire returning, you DO have connection problems.
  18. mbrood
    While the "high temp" hot glue is a bit tedious to work with, it comes off parts fairly easy, provides an excellent seal and goes back on firly easy, with any "extra" readily cleaned up. Silicone also seals well but it's tanacious grip is often not totally removeable, you would have to slice along the edge and then pry to free the inside lip, on that big red panel, you would probably be putting a lot of force on the lens. I'll stick with hot glue. Although the yellow and red lenses are still available, the defraction sub-lens behind each yellow one is out of stock and another "hen's tooth !!
  19. mbrood
    The bar is primarily held onto the trunk with double-sided tape with the screws as backup. The lenses are held in with "high temp" hot glue from the factory, you want to use your wife's blow drier (lower heat than a heat gun) and slowly heat a turn signal lens... I lay my hand nearby so I can gauge just how hot it's getting... with a slow and steady back and forth with the drier, the glue softens and you can pry it up slowly and carefully. This makes getting to an edge of the large red lens much more available for heating and lifting as you move the drier along. Please remember that the entire housing is a SOFTER plastic than the lenses so too much heat will distort the frame. It would be a DANDY time to change the T10 wedge incandescents to LEDs from superbrightleds.com... that will take future replacements basically out of your mind..
  20. mbrood
    The power transistor is turned on and provides a ground to the primary side of the ignition coil. The flowing current throws an electromagnetic field into the secondary. When the transistor opens, the field in the primary coil collapses and provides a negative pulse that would be seen and possibly damage the power transistor, except that the large diode is oriented to provide that negative pulse passes safely to ground. This is not a 12 volt pulse, it's determined by the efficiency and size of the coil. In that mind, I wouldn't skimp on the voltage of the "proper cap"... try Digitek or Mouser Electronics, you can also often call around to radio/TV repair shops and get a suitable sub.
  21. mbrood
    Wolo shows the hot lead as the lead on the right as you look at the face of the horn with the leads at the bottom....
  22. mbrood
    If using a separate horn switch... battery hot to fuse, fuse to pins 30 and 86 of relay, 87 from relay to hot lead on horn. horn negative to chassis ground. relay pin 85 to horn switch, through switch to chassis ground... (if using bike's original horn switch, splice pin 85 into the pink wire going to the horn switch. is that what you have? If so apply 12V direct to the hot lead... If that doesn't work, see if your leads are reversed on the horn.
  23. mbrood
    Black licorice was 2 for a penny and red was a penny each... WIth a nickel I got 4 black for my brother and I and 2 red for my sister because she loved it. I remember walking with my mom to the corner grocer so I could help carry stuff (yeah, right!) and Wonderbread offered a TINY loaf of bread for a nickel... just perfect for my sister and her tea party setup... She got a bulb heated kitchen stove and my brother and I drooled over the chocolate cake that we KNEW was going to come out so hot, fresh and mouth-watering... well, to say it wasn't is taking it easy and to say it was TINY is an understatement, but SHE cooked it and we ALL enjoyed it. Learned to drive on an old (even then) Massey Furgusson tractor out in the back fields... had to climb down off the seat, mash the clutch in, haul that TALL shifter to the next position, let that clutch out and jump back up into the seat so I could see. If it hadn't run out of gas I would still be riding, with a smile from ear to ear. Grandpa was sad to put the Ole Blue (his plow horse) out to pasture but the tractor did so much more and that left Ole Blue to us kids so the three of us could ride him to the creek for swimmin'. Grandma always had a limp, finally found out it was caused on her wedding... seems she was riding on the back of her pa's buckboard and it hit a rock and bounced her out, onto her back. I was five before I found out that there were actually people who DIDN'T live and work on a farm... what wonders! Times were slower and life seemed fuller.
  24. mbrood
    The Air Farce has had this technology for a while... even the President's new plane utilizes it. Just glad that now it's wound it's way down so we all can enjoy. http://www.bergall.org/temp/president
  25. mbrood
    The outside tube on the boost sensor is molded into the case. There originally was a silicone seal on the inside that sealed the actual vacuum sensor to the bottom of the case when it was originally installed... these can degrade over time and destroy the seal and effect the performance. The gummy sealant that they put in above the OPEN circuit board inside also protects microscopic circuits attached to the board and tampering (even carefully) has NEVER been successful by me. I could reseal the sensor itself but then the board refused to respond correctly. Sad, but that's my experience with four of 'em. My rule of thumb for a slow return to idle follows the standard: The mixture is lean if: the bike surges while holding a steady throttle at about 4000 rpm in second gear. there is excessive back-firing on closed-throttle overrun. the throttle is lightly 'blipped' and the idle speed 'hangs up' before dropping to the set idle speed (set the idle to 1000 rpm to start). Correction: turn the pilot screws OUT 1/2 turn or so. If the pilot screws end up turned out very much more than three and one half turns total (stock is about 2 1/2 turns), you should use larger pilot jets. The mixture is rich if: the plugs are excessively soot-ed up or fouled. the throttle is lightly 'blipped' and the idle speed drops below the set idle speed before rising up to the set speed. Correction: turn pilot screws IN 1/2 turn. Please remember, this assumes an "adjustment" is required. If your bike hasn't been worked on and suddenly developes the lean condition, an air leak is the main suspect to be followed down. Have you checked your carb diaphrams for pinholes?
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