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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    I thought if the fuel had caster in it, the caster turns rancid with age... I've heard of some guys running it through cheese cloth to clean but then you end up with an unkown mix... New planes need new fuel... and the real reason is attitude, takes away excuses and gives you an even chance to test her, trim her and bring her home for the "next time".
  2. mbrood
    The main trunk had an optional (after market) trunk light kit that replaced the simple reflector unit. The lenses are held in with hot glue originally. You need to use a hair blow drier... slowly heat the lens by moving the drier back and forth (I put my hand just below the lens to gauge how hot it's getting... it's usually easier to heat up and pry out a turn signal lens first so you can get to an end of the red). Remember that the housing is ALSO plastic, so if it gets too hot, it WILL start to melt. High Temp hot glue is used and should be reapplied when mounting them. Please don't replace these bulbs with the stock incandescent, they will burn out again and it's a repeat. superbrightleds sell some dandy (and cheap) red, side illuminating LEDs in the wedge package and although they are polarized (check that they work before putting the covers back) they will last for a LONG time... use red for the rear and yellow LEDs for the turn... The saddlebag lights just plug in from the bottom. You don't want Haynes, the Yamaha 1st gen, mk2 service manual is available and is great for what you need.
  3. mbrood
    There are a couple things that can happen with the cruise... if it slows down gradually to over 5 mph from it's set point it will kick off (vacuum leak on the cruise vacuum pump). If it just kicks out of "set" then one of three switches have been triggered... clutch, front brake and back break. The most common is for the clutch to not be really out all the way (weak spring) and the vibration bounces the lever and momentarily flips the switch... try it again but holding the clutch lever out fully... If all of the cruise lights drop out, you have a dirty "cruise cancel" switch that needs cleaning. Mike
  4. mbrood
    Mike, As was mentioned, I wrote up a reasonable step-by-step on removal, cleaning and installation. The only thing that I would improve on would be that instead of dipping the carbs... take them to a speed shop that can untrasound dip them in cleaner... this will do a MUCH better job at cleaning out the tiny passages in the carb body... and toss in the jets too... that TINY idle fuel jet in the jet block is the absolute culprit in the majority of our carb troubles. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54
  5. mbrood
    Bulbs can be bought in different wattages (WalMart has several) but save yourself some grief and buy some amber LEDs from superbrightleds.com. The main reason is that the incandescents heat up and without proper ventilation the yellow cover will start to melt. Since there are NO replacement lenses... you would be very disappointed. So... be warned.
  6. mbrood
    Take a plug to your local auto parts store and buy a foot of heater hose that has an ID that grips the plug ceramic shaft. While you are there (if you don't have any already) buy some anti-sieze. When you break the plug loose with the wrench, cut about a 4" section of the hose and slip it over the plug tip and use this "extension" to twist the plug out, saves cramped fingers and a lifesaver if they are 'warm'. Everytime you reinstall the plugs, put a small smear of anti-sieze on the threads. You REALLY don't want the plgs siezing in the head or pulling aluminum threads. Gap the plugs per the service manual and also note the condition of the tips on each one and write it down so you have a log. This WILL pay off down the road. A light brown is the ideal but most VR are set rich so lightly sooted is not unreasonable. Any oil or gas should be noted and steps thought out to correct this.
  7. mbrood
    I think it's pretty common for us to become accustom to our bike and lose a little bit of that deep respect that the beast requires. We get side tracked, and it only takes a moment sometimes to bite us in the rear and remind us that we are dealing with a lot of mass and have to keep our heads and eyes up and moving. It's a bit related to age but more, I think, to familiarity and complacence. Young and old we almost all get caught. As an aside, I know as I get older my reaction times are slowed, so I REALLY try and allow a bit more room for things and try and keep my head far ahead of the bike to give me every advantage.
  8. mbrood
    There is also the infamous cracked frame problem that showed up on some 83 and 84s. Another tidbit, the gear selector shows gear selected, not just neutral.
  9. mbrood
    I know there are times when it just can't be done this way but I prefer the simple method, walk right up, smile and extend my hand and say "Thank you for your service to our contry and people." It works for me, and it works quite often here in Oceanside.
  10. mbrood
    I think his qustion was to see if the CD function showed up on the master... if it does, the CD is getting power and "at least" responding to the controller... if not, it's a power issue... if it does, it's a bit stickier...
  11. mbrood
    An opportune time for an air horn... now if I could get one that blasted short and loud like a 40cal... hmmm...
  12. mbrood
    The connection going into the left side fairing is the standard car antennae connection... ask friends if someone doesn't have something laying around you can borrow for an afternoon. If it's the same in AM and FM, this seems to preclude the early rf section, it could still be poor solder or grounding to the tuner section.
  13. mbrood
    I had the opportunity to find that one of the carb fuel bowl covers had 2 loose screws... not enough to dump or drip but just enough to leak a tiny bit and cause that stink. I actually used some talc powder to make it show up. But tank pin holes are nortorious.
  14. mbrood
    For the lower reflector, I used a safty razor, the type with a firm back on one side, and gently drew a line at the junction of the red and black plastic... then carefully and slowly redraw the line cutting just a bit deeper each time. This needs to be done only to the top and bottom and then you have two parts. The side mounted wedge (T10) holders will either bolt on or you can use an epoxy, be sure to scuff the black plastic if using epoxy to give it "teeth". Using side illuminating LEDS from superbrightleds.com is probably your cheapewst and best selection... and yesh, they are polarized so fire it up before you seal it back. I used high-temp hot glue to seal the front back and it's serviced me well for the last few years. RTV can also be used but it's not as neat if you need to get back in. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/rearlight.jpg
  15. mbrood
    Also available from http://www.shuey1234.com/category/antenna-s/catId=3584029 quoted $3.99
  16. mbrood
    Yes, the chip needs the resistor inline as a current limiting device, without it, that part of the chip is history. If you burnt it out, it is no big deal to change. The chip is a TD62504P I ordered 1 from local electronic shop. There are two on the computer board The battery sensor connects to pin 1 on one of the chips. That is the one to change. another tip is to install a chip socket on the board. If you blow it again in is just a matter of prying out the chip and pressing in a new one.
  17. mbrood
    My vote would be #3 on your list... (I just HATE when I stand up, all proud, and see something on the ground...) Mike
  18. mbrood
    When pressure is low the pump diaphram closes the "ON contacts of the pump solenoid, the solenoid pulls the diaphram, sucking in gas, whick opens the contacts and the diaphragm relaxes, pushing the gas up to the carb and this closes the contacts so it can pull again. When pressure is built up, the pressure keeps the diaphragm from closing the "ON" contacts.
  19. mbrood
    Install with a small amount of latex calk... down the road it will still let you wiggle the cap out and cleans up nice. RTV must be cut to release and cleanup is ugly.
  20. mbrood
    For us "southerners"... Exactly what are hydro wires ? Do you call them after the source of the electricity or have you devised a clever scheme to pipe the town's water through wires?
  21. mbrood
    Dragging right caliper?
  22. mbrood
    Yeah, what's with the two listings, Harley being $10 cheaper and they both have the exact same spec and pictures... but a different SKU number, of course.
  23. mbrood
    Does it lose it's presets? There's basically two power wires... one is from the switch (main) and one is directly from the battery keeping the presets in memory.
  24. mbrood
    I must be missing something. I always thought an officer was considered an "expert witness" and since he was an "impartial third party", it should have been clear cut. Call backup and read him his rights to start his "awakening".
  25. mbrood
    The shade-tree mechanic method is to rotate until the peak of the lobe is 180 out from the lifter puck... then check. You realize you are looking for a lot smaller number than your garden variety feeler gauge wiil check... 0.0043-0.0059 inches for intake 0.0063-0.0079 inches for exhaust
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