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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    Going into the hole first... spring... then rubber cup over spring, fit the seal over the long smooth shank of the piston (smooth face of seal to the outside), then piston goes in with seal to the outside, then washer and circlip. Small spring then rubber boot. The lever linkage shaft goes into the small spring to move the piston.
  2. mbrood
    A good pictorial of different stages of the war and a great review and discussion point for sharing with our kids. http://www.theatlantic.com/infocus/pages/ww2/
  3. mbrood
    If the radio doesn't come on in the ignition position, I would suspect the ignition switch. It can be opened and cleaned... If the radio does, I would immediately check the voltage on EACH side of the fuses on te fuse holder... they may look good but the fuse holders are often the suspect after so many years !
  4. mbrood
    Dingy, You just changed the engine guards and added the plastic chin scoop ?
  5. mbrood
    You would be money ahead taking it out, opening it up and lubing it and clean and lube the electrical contacts. Then you have a clean switch and it's keyed with the bike.
  6. mbrood
    Gonna have to have a ground in there... electricity is like water, it has to flow "through" the circuit to work.
  7. mbrood
    The ignition fuse is the glass fuse in the black holder above the battery. All resistance checks are made with no electricity turned on. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/fuseblock.jpg
  8. mbrood
    It could be going either way, very lean or very rich. Turn her over a few time and pull the plugs... they "better" be fuel wetted. If they are you are half way there. Leave the plugs out for a couple hours so any flooding condition is allowed to vent off, return the mixture screws to 2 1/2, pop the plugs in and try again. If no luck, pull a plug to make sure it's not still fuel soaked. The careful use of starting fluid is a valid aid, I normally will just spray some into the airbox. Many of these need some choke to get them going from cold, but the starter spray will tell you if she wants to "pop" at ya...
  9. mbrood
    The metal insert only exists in the lower half of the boot, the upper section is all rubber. If the cracks are in the lower section, smear some black RTV on them and smooth it with a watered finger to stop further weathering, but it's mostly cosmetic. Cracks above half way need a more reasonable address.
  10. mbrood
    Pull the four plugs and check their relationship. They should all be within the same condition.
  11. mbrood
    My recommendation after any carb work when it "still" doesn't seem to want to perform, pull the plugs and check what's happening in those cylinders!! White is too rilean (too much air, air leaks) and a real problem waiting to break something... black and sooty, she's firing but still too rich, black and wet... she's barely firing... nice tan=perfect mixture. You might also check the resitance from inside each plug cap holder to the ignition fuse... it should be about 23k Ohms... 10k for the resistor in the plug holder and 13K for the coil... anything mpore and there's corrosion... probably on on end of the plug wire.
  12. mbrood
    1. The clutch switch has a thin plastic "arm" on the bottom with a little button on the end. This needs to ge gently pushed in through the hole in the metal housing and the switch will back out. 2. The large hole is the fluid fill hole while the tiny one is the relief hole... the master cylinder piston and seals are directly beneath these. once you have the lever off along with the plunger and boot, you will see the circlip inside there... get that out and the piston and spring will come out and NOW you can inspect those holes for clogging. 3. Rebuild is straight and troublefree... once you have siphoned out the fluid from the reservoir, it goes very rapidly. No shop required. 4. seals, springs and plunger, I believe.
  13. mbrood
    If you don't have or know how to use a voltmeter... grab a light bulb from the tail light or turn signal and a few feet of insulated wire. Strip about 3 inched off one end of the wire and wrap it around the copper shaft on the bulb and twist it to itself. Then strip a 1/4 inch from the other end of the wire. Now, holding a solder pin on the base of the bulb to a good ground, any junction you touch with the 1/4' stripped end that has 12 V will make the bulb light... handy even for roadside checks. The other side of that testing is to put the solder pin of the bulb onto the battery hot terminal and probe the bulb socket in question to see if the ground pin actually is providing a good ground.
  14. mbrood
    Unless you install a "T" for carb 2's connection to the boost sensor, you don't have the vacuum advance making the timing at higher RPM appropriate.
  15. mbrood
    Wouldn't this be an indication that one (or more) of the needles was worn causing the imbalance at the higher revs? Maybe a slight shim adjustment would help ?
  16. mbrood
    Here's what one of the guys did... LEDs for wedge mount From superbrightleds.com... Amber bulbs that go in the rotorcover are WLED-A4 and are $1.59 each (4 LED narrow beam, amber). The red 9mm bayonet type bulbs are BA9s-R and are $.98 each. The bulbs I used in my upper light bar that are the blade type that I needed the light to come out sideways were WLED-R that are red, single LED, wide-inverted cone tip. These were $.87 each. Brighter Brakes and turn signals The stock bulb for the RSV is #1157. specs are 32/3 candlepower. Bulb # 2357 has the same base, plugs right in. Specs 40/3 candlepower. Running light will be the same brightness, brake light will be 25% brighter. If anyone is worried about the extra heat melting the lens...I've been using these bulbs in my '83, brake and turn signals, for about 8 years. I use the 2357LL (long life). front bumper and trunk turn signal in amber Quantity: 6 Product: WLED-5 Wide Angle LED bulb $ 2.79 (each) Options: Amber Accessory running lights/wide angle/side view Quantity: 18 Product: WLED-R Red LED bulb $ 0.89 (each) Options: Wide - Inverted Cone Tip Front disc brake rotor cover for 84 and 86... in amber Quantity: 8 Product: WLED-A4 Amber LED bulb $ 1.59 (each) Trunk and reflector red lights Quantity: 12 Product: WLED-5 Wide Angle LED bulb $ 2.79 (each) Options: Red http://www.superbrightleds.com ---------- PRODUCT INFORMATION ---------- Qty | Product / Options | Price/ea | ================================================== ========== 5 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 2.59 | WLED-W4-90: Cool White Wide 1 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 1.59 | WLED-R4-32: Red Narrow 2 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 2.59 | WLED-G4-32: Green Narrow 1 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 2.59 | WLED-B4-90: Blue Wide 3 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb | $ 1.59 | WLED-A4-32: Amber Narrow 2 | 1156-x30: 30-LED BA15S bulb| $ 8.99 | 1156-A19-WV: 1156 Amber 100 Degree 2 | 1157-x3X1W: 3 x 1.3 Watt High Power LED BAY15D Bulb| $ 16.95 | 1157-A3X1W: Amber 2 | 1157-R19W6: Motorcycle Tail 19-LED 1157 Bulb| $ 12.99 | 2 | RL-650: Tail Light Load Resistor kit | $ 4.95 |
  17. mbrood
    The manual calls them BDS 34 X 4
  18. mbrood
    The 2nd gear problem was fixed in 1985 after serial number 0001413... so check that number (left side, low on the engine, just behind the rear jugs on the case). The 85 has a few more locks than other models with two acting like helmet holders on the trunk mount rack, one way they release the helmet lock, the other way they release the trunk for portability, so it's nice if one key fits everything. Electrical issues are fairly routine on older bikes but most of our repairs are easily accomplished with cleaning connections and resoldering cold solder joints.
  19. mbrood
    The Molex style looks custom... very similar to the trunk light power that I ran... Wrap a bare wire around a bulb base... then tape another to the bottom pin... shove them in and start checking for running light or brake...
  20. mbrood

    stability

    mbrood replied to skipbasler's topic in Watering Hole

    I would pull the trunk and bags and ride it again. It's possible you were getting wind buffeting at speed.
  21. mbrood
    If you decide to get in there, remember that we rarely deal with these cables, so while it's available, shoot some specific cable lube down that sheath... it's amazing what a difference there is... 20+ years of use and no lube... things get stiff.
  22. mbrood
    It seems to be unique... this year has the choke in a rotary ring on the grip where earlier and later models have the mechanism below the switch housing in a left-right thumb lever. I haven't chased the 84 mechanism inside but it is troublesome to many... some have swapped out for the different grip cluster and it seems to cure the situation. Maybe the 84 has an internal return spring at the grip?
  23. mbrood
    With any splice, add a bit of dialectric grease. Pos-i-lok distributor Australia & New Zealand Pro Quip International 14 London Drive, PO Box 852, Bayswater, Victoria, Australia. 3153 Tel: +613 9761 1110 Fax: +613 9761 1565 Contact: Martin Haines E-Mail: martin@proquip.com.au FastBikeGear NZ 24 Spinnaker Dv, Te Atatu Peninsula Auckland, New Zealand Tel: +649 834 6655 Mob: +64 275 985 266 Contact: Liam Venter Website: www.FastBikeGear.co.nz E-Mail: Liam@FastBikeGear.co.nz
  24. mbrood
    I sleep SO much better... a full nights rest... such a delight. Oh wait, I don't use one... my wife uses one. It took her a couple months and uses the nose/mouth unit and actually I can SEE that she is resting better, not struggling for air and snoring, so she is more rested also. If the style of mask is a problem, get them to find something else, several varieties are available, and remember to change it after a while. I'm still waiting for them to come up with something for the water to keep her from waking up with "desert mouth'.
  25. mbrood
    I tested one complete using pump pressure then a static test in a bowl of water and the numbers came out the same... so... If you have the carb in your hand, pop the fuel bowl cover off, hook a clean hose to the fuel inlet and get a large bowl of water... as you blow into the fuel line, slowly lower the carb into the water, when the air shuts off, lift the carb out. The water line on the carb body is your fuel height... you can make incremental changes to tune in the float.
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