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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    It's called a pick-up tool... most auto parts stores should have a version... http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/808598/742/tools/specialty_tools/magnetic_tools/ http://static.pepboys.com/images/productImages/3574100/m/25291nopkg.jpg
  2. mbrood
    I would take a careful look at the fork seals.
  3. mbrood
    The MKI mount to the frame and passenger peg mount, while the MKII mount to the frame and the lower bracket on the saddle bags. I doubt they swap without some serious metalwork.
  4. mbrood
    So let's see... you are going to have to dismount the existing carbs (that you have a proven history with) and it's advisable to disassemble and inspect the incoming ones... I would do an existing disassembly and send the bodies and jets out to a speed shop for an ultrasonic cleaning and reassembly. Varnish gone, known quality. But that's just the training from my dad... keep it cheap but insure the quality !
  5. mbrood
    As was mentioned... the neutral switch won't keep the bike from starting... it just changes the requirements... using the clutch when hot should bypass the kickstand/neutral switch combo. If she still has a problem then it's outside that path... either solenoid or starter... did you hear any clicking of the starter solenoid ?
  6. mbrood
    The back tire should roll fairly smooth... you have to consider the drive train of the shaftdrive and gearing though. I would pull the caliper and insure that each puck can be eased back into it's sleeve... if one is 'tough'... it needs resolved... often just a good cleaning is required.
  7. mbrood
    Accessory lighting usually uses a chassis ground or a return wire so grounding should be suspect as they all act the same. The power line needs to be chased down. Those incandescents in the rotor cover REALLY need changed to amber LEDs... the old type can heat up and distort the amber lens... have you seen any of 'those' floating around recently?
  8. mbrood
    Run a proper compression test... all plugs removed, throttle opened fully... The squirt some oil into the cylinder (just enough to coat the piston head (about a teaspoon) and recheck compression. If the numbers come way up you have problems with the rings/piston. If they stay relatively the same it's a valve problem. Don't get wrapped up in anything major until you investigate properly and KNOW what your job will be. These are really strong engines and take a lot of use, most problems are down to simple maintenance and adjustment.
  9. mbrood
    That wire gauge should be more than happy for LEDs. getting weight up high reduced is a real bonus !
  10. mbrood
    The piston has a rubber seal that MAY have gotten a bit of grit under it but in any case I would get the rebuid and do it right just to be done with it.
  11. mbrood
    $4.30 in San Diego... just south of the huge LA refineries who also ship to Arizona, Nevada, etc. where it's up to 60 cents cheaper ????
  12. mbrood
    an oldie but a real goodie... thanks !!
  13. mbrood
    You know who to contact... they voted these in... they can vote them revised ! Many of the codes are written specifically so they CAN be gamed... and it's up to all of us to let them know it's a dandy day to stop !
  14. mbrood
    Since the tach reads the pulses from the TCI's #2 low connection of that ignition coil and also the fuel pump as a "keep alive" signal to keep the pump enabled, you can bet that that signal is being sent into the wiring harness. i expect a loose connection or a cold solder joint at the dash... diagram shows the wire to be gray on a 6 pin connector up there.
  15. mbrood
    Maybe this is clearer... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/idle_screw-1.jpg
  16. mbrood
    You can check the resistance of the primary and secondary coils on the ignition coils as well as checking each to isure they are open to the case housing. The TCI is best checked by placing it under the false gas cover and routing the two large TCI connectors up to it and perform an active, functional checkout. That's really how I would check the rectifier/regulator... do the diode checks described and then substitute it into a working bike and measure the voltages are there.
  17. mbrood
    I had a neighbor over while I was working on an older bike of mine. It's toolbag was open and he grabbed a long spoon shaped device and asked what it was. I said it's a tire iron, for fixing your flat on the roadside. He just looked at me and with his 27 years of youth gently declared... "You know, you really can't do that!" I lifted the seat and showed him the patch kit and spare innertube and said, "Done it more than once!". He left, just shaking his head. Now I think I have become one of those "crazy neighbors" I remember from my youth.
  18. mbrood
    A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up. If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the idle mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at 1000 rpm! A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up. If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the idle mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture. Remember the mixtures screws can affect not only idle, but low speed up to about 2000 rpm and after any adjustments, you want to resync the carb vacuum at 1k.
  19. mbrood
    That airbreather box looks perfectly repairable... won't be the prettiest but only mice and a repair guy would ever know. The vulvanizing of the rubber in radiator hose pretty well "sets" the hose so secondray shaping is rather out of the question for a garage mechanic. I would check a local auto parts store (not those chain type where the clerk graduated from McDonalds) and Napa is usually also a good source where they can go back and match something up. Might have to cut off some but it's the size and shape you want, not the vendor. Professional shops use a glycol flow of about 300 degrees flowing through as the tube is bent... flows for about 10 minutes then quenched in cold water... rather hard to duplicate easily and quite dangerous! Gates has a catalog of cut to fit bent hoses. Here's the online catalog, it has photos but no measurements - http://www.gatespowerpro.com/Comerge...TOKEN=40346501 Here's a link to the PDF catalog, it might have more info but I didn't register to look at it. http://gates.com/index.cfm?location_id=521
  20. mbrood
    The photo below is of the carbs upside down... with the left carb bank on the left. To the hard left, hooked to the gold bracket holding the drain tubes, in the middle is the large silver knob. THAT is the idle adjust. The single slotted screw there adjusts the sync balance between the #1 an #2 carb... while the 2 on the right bank adjust the balance for #3 and #4 and the other balances the left and right bank. The slotted screws should really only be tinkered with using a sync tool. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/carb3.jpg
  21. mbrood
    Gunk is also a very poor description. Under the carb cover is a preload spring followed by the vacuum actuating bellows (known as the diaphragm) attached to the piston. The engine's changing vacuum will, on opening the throttle, allow the vacuum pulse of that cylinder to pull the piston back toward the cover... resulting in a "fluttering" of the piston, more pronouced with hogher RPM (vacuum pulses). The area between the diaphragm and the piston should actually be free of any substance at all as this is controlling the air passage (via the piston in the carb throat) and also the fuel as the main needle (attached to the piston) receeds for it's seat in the carb throat. You really want to get any and all "gunk" out of this area as well as the slide area the piston passes. You don't want to use any lubricant as this effects the action of the piston. Check for drag marks on both the piston body and the interior of the slide hole. There will probably be some slight marks from action over the ages but anything you can feel needs to be remedied. The bellows are also very prone to pinhole leaks (primarily at or near the outer rim) and these need sealed by a very flexible sealant or replaced entirely. The smooth fit of the piston and sleeve is very critical to good performance of the constant velocity style carb and the ability of the diaphragm to modulate the cylinder vacuum smoothly and accurately is the key to it all. If you find "gunk" in one carb, it's demanded to check and clean the others. You want to also check the uncompressed length of each spring. A collapsed spring will only reduce performance for that carb.
  22. mbrood
    The coil should read 13k Ohms to the ignition fuse +/- 1K... I will have to assume you are using a different plug holder that has no 10k resistor... ? That plug look like it's been TOO hot... I would open the idle mixture screw about a 1/4 turn. But FIRST I would gently turn it IN (CW) until it gently seats, counting the turns it took, including 1/8th turns... then back it out the same number plus that extra 1/4... I would also write this down for a status of where you are currently at that adjustment.
  23. mbrood
    It would help to mark them... When trouble hits out on the road, it's real handy to know what you are touching.
  24. mbrood
    The top and middle plug look good but it's hard to tell... you really want to look at the electrode and the white insulator around it... ideal is a medium tan. White and flakey means you are way too lean and that leads to detonating an engine... if that's the case it needs resolved before any futher use. The other too look a bit sooty... a bit too rich, probably. The one on the left looks almost fine... not too black. But you want to try and start the bike... let it run (if it will) for a bit and then shut down and pull the plugs... even wet plugs will dry out if left for awhile. resistance checks don't care about polarity of the leads... there is no polarity. but the resistance check is between the plug holder and the ignition fuse...
  25. mbrood
    First, I would Ohm from the sparkplug cap to the ignition fuse, looking for right around 23k Ohm... 10 for the cap and 13 for the coil... any more and you have corrosion to clean between the cap and coil. Then, pull the plugs and see what's happening... are they dry, fuel soaked, sooty...
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