mbrood

A man observed a woman in the grocery store with a three year old girl in her basket. As they passed the cookie section, the child asked for cookies and her mother told her "no." The little girl immediately began to whine and fuss, and the mother said quietly, "Now Ellen, we just have half of the aisles left to go through; don`t be upset. It won`t be long." He passed the Mother again in the candy aisle. Of course, the little girl began to shout for candy. When she was told she couldn`t have any, she began to cry. The mother said, "There, there, Ellen, don`t cry. Only two more aisles to go, and then we`ll be checking out." The man again happened to be behind the pair at the check-out, where the little girl immediately began to clamour for gum and burst into a terrible tantrum upon discovering there would be no gum purchased today. The mother patiently said, "Ellen, we`ll be through this check out stand in five minutes, and then you can go home and have a nice nap." The man followed them out to the parking lot and stopped the woman to compliment her. "I couldn`t help noticing how patient you were with little Ellen..." The mother broke in, "My little girl`s name is Tammy... I`m Ellen."

You got it Kevin, that's a farirly large bronze scew holding the jet block (fuel idle and main jet) against the carb body and their passages as well as screwing into the imulsion tube holding it rigid. They don't work loose. It's actually a fairly simple job, pop the carbs off, then split the left and right bank halves (this still keeps the basic sync adjustments), pop off the fuel bowls and make everything right... Make sure and check that the large and small rubber plugs are secure beneath the two fuel jets after you insure that the two jets in there are screwed in tight, the jet block gasket is intact and then screw that assembly in tight and button them up. Any main resync requirement would be between the left and the right sides.

The coils primary coil also is tied to the ignition fuse on the high side but it's lower leg goes to the TCI. We are talking about testing the ignition coil secondary (high voltage) side. With a probe in the plug holder and the other probe on the far fuse clip, continuity is between the clip, the fuse, the clip, the high side of the secondary coil, the high tension lead and finally through the plug holder.

Sorry... a little unclear... You want the multimeter set to 200K Ohms (it has to be a setting above 24K in order to READ 24K). One probe goes into the sparkplug holder and the other probe goes to the ignition fuse, under the false tank, inside the black main fuse box. It's always a better test to probe the CLIP on the left side so you are testing both clips and fuse as well. Clear as mud?

I would do a simple resistance check from inside the sparkplug holder to the ignition fuse on the rear and then front... both should read right at 24K (10k for the holder and 13k for the ignition coil secondary). Anything more and you have some corrosion to clean, either inside the plug holder (comes apart with a flat blade screwdriver) or one of the ends of the plug wire (screws into the plug holder, has a cap and pressure washer on the coil) look for green crusties and clean... if it's the wire, just snip 1/8" off and reapply. Now swap the rear and front plugs. Fire her up and let her run about 45 seconds and shut her down and gently feel the exhaust pipes front and rear for comparison.

I believe the 41V-83980-01-00 FRONT STOP SWITCH ASS'Y is for the Venture Royale (four wire) While the 26H-83980-00-00 FRONT STOP SWITCH ASS'Y is for the standard Venture (sans cruise control, two wire) Although the two wire unit is quoted for under $40... the four wire is asking about $60. The 2WR-83980-01-00 is the newest version with the noise filter and at over $150 is probably not the best choice as they are basically asking for your first born and part of your retirement for a thimble full of plastic and copper. Although some of us may consider offering the first born with only a little reluctance, ebay, salvage or these fine gentlemen is where I would hunt if that's the way you want to go.

Although it's a little more involved... when you have the back cover off, if you see any white or grey corrosion, you are money ahead to desolder the edge connectors and lift the board out and inspect around the main power diodes. Unless yours has been replaced or repaired, you will find grey and blue glass diodes that were prone to break down, taking THAT output transistor with it and that cyclinder quits working... replace the 8 with 1N4001 (family) ceramic and be done... clean up any other corrosion and then consider relocating the TCI to above the aircleaner, the wires route up there pretty easy. Note the corrosion on the two at the top left between the two power transistors... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tci2.jpg

A good test is to lift the access panel it sits on, then grab the power connector to the air controller and push it one way... turn on the ACC. Turn it off and push it the other way and repeat... if you see any difference the connector on the controller needs resoldered.

The thin flat washer between the spring and the resistor keeps the end of the spring from digging into the resistor from vibration. It's a small diameter but easliy fabricated. I would vote for a leak on the boost sensor hose or a faulty one.

This site is very informative and worthwhile! Which ever diseases you click-on it gives you a video explanation! Interactive Sites For Medical Information The tutorials listed below are interactive health education resources from the Patient Education Institute. Using animated graphics each tutorial explains a procedure or condition in easy-to-read language. You can also listen to the tutorial. JUST CLICK ON A SPECIFIC AILMENT NOTE: These tutorials require a special Flash plug-in, version 6 or Above... If you do not have Flash, you will be prompted to obtain a free download of the software before you start the tutorial. Diseases and Conditions Abdominal Aortic Aneurysm Acne AIDS Allergies to Dust Mites Alopecia Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis Angina Anthrax Arrhythmias Arthritis Asthma Atrial Fibrillation Avian Influenza Back Pain - How to Prevent Bell's Palsy Brain Cancer Breast Cancer Burns Cataracts Cerebral Palsy Cold Sores (Herpes) Colon Cancer Congestive Heart Failure COPD (Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease) Crohn's Disease Cystic Fibrosis Depression Diabetes - Eye Complications Diabetes - Foot Care Diabetes - Introduction Diabetes - Meal Planning Diverticulosis Endometriosis Epstein Barr (Mononucleosis) Erectile Dysfunction Fibromyalgia Flashes and Floaters Fractures and Sprains Ganglion Cysts Gastroesophageal Reflux Disease (GERD) Glaucoma Gout Hearing Loss Heart Attack Hepatitis B Hepatitis C Hypertension (High Blood Pressure) Hypoglycemia Incisional Hernia Influenza Inguinal Hernia Irritable Bowel Syndrome Kidney Failure Kidney Stones Leishmaniasis Leukemia Low Testosterone Lung Cancer Lupus Lyme Disease Macular Degeneration Malaria Melanoma Meningitis Menopause Migraine Headache Mitral Valve Prolapse Multiple Myeloma Multiple Sclerosis Myasthenia Gravis Osteoarthritis Osteoporosis Otitis Media Ovarian Cancer Ovarian Cysts Pancreatitis Parkinson's Disease Pneumonia Prostate Cancer - What is it? Psoriasis Retinal Tear and Detachment Rheumatoid Arthritis Rotator Cuff Injuries Sarcoidosis Scabies Seizures and Epilepsy Sexually Transmitted Diseases Shingles Skin Cancer Sleep Disorders Smallpox Spinal Cord Injury Temporomandibular Joint Disorders (TMJ) Tennis Elbow Tinnitus Trigeminal Neuralgia Tuberculosis Ulcerative Colitis Umbilical Hernia Uterine Fibroids Varicose Veins Vasculitis Warts Tests and Diagnostic Procedures Amniocentesis Barium Enema Bone Densitometry Breast Lumps - Biopsy Bronchoscopy Colonoscopy Colposcopy Coronary Angiogram and Angioplasty CT Scan (CAT Scan) Cystoscopy - Female Cystoscopy - Male Echocardiogram Echocardiography Stress Test IVP (Intra Venous Pyelogram) Knee Arthroscopy Laparoscopy Mammogram MRI Myelogram Newborn Screening Pap Smear Shoulder Arthroscopy Sigmoidoscopy Ultrasound Upper GI Endoscopy Surgery and reatment Procedures Aorto-Bifemoral Bypass Cardiac Rehabilitation Carotid Endarterectomy Carpal Tunnel Syndrome Chemotherapy Cholecystectomy - Open Laparoscopic (Gallbladder Removal Surgery) Clinical Trials Colon Cancer Surgery Colostomy Coronary Artery Bypass Graft (CABG) C-Section Dilation and Curettage (D & C) General Anesthesia Heart Valve Replacement Hemorrhoid Surgery Hip Replacement Hip Replacement - Physical Therapy Hysterectomy Knee Replacement LASIK Massage Therapy Neurosurgery - What is it? Open Heart Surgery - What to Expect? Pacemakers Preparing for Surgery Prostate Cancer - Radiation Therapy Shoulder Replacement Sinus Surgery Stroke Rehabilitation Thyroid Surgery Tonsillectomy and Adenoidectomy TURP (Prostate Surgery) Vaginal Birth Vasectomy Prevention and Wellness Back Exercises Coumadin - Introduction

Have you simply tried WD40? Does many things not designed for... Mike

In replacing the springs (bootom)... replace the existing spring with the Progressive and what's shown on the top... yeah, the original 3" spacer becomes a dust collector! http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg

Yes, from your description she's running on two and you have found enough adjustment range to get her to idle... the idle circuitry is still perfoming up to about 2500 rpm and then the flow transitions to the MUCH larger main fuel jets. After a run it is really impossible to tell from heat if the other two cylinders kicked in at cruise speed but bring her home and shut her off immediately and let her cool (don't let her idle), pull the plugs on the offending two to see if they are wet or dry, sooty or slightly black or a nice tan. If white, she's running extremely lean, the blacker means she's running rich and we really want to see them tan to medium grey. Having to use the choke is just a cheat to get a gasoline boost (bypass) that the idle circuit isn't providing.

Hving to use the choke indicates the idle circuitry of the carb is not working. This is caused by the TINY idle jet in the float bowls jet block is clogged or one of the small passages within the carb body. Gas will slowly form a varnish that coats the passages and jets... while most jets and passages are fairly large, a little varnish won't show a serious effect. The TINY idle jet WILL. You can pop the carbs off and break them into just a left and right bank of two and this gives you access to the float bowls and certain cleaning of that little thing. This also preserves the main sync adjustment hardware and their setting, although it's always recommended to get a new sync when the carbs are seated and the idle mixture screws properly adjusted fo the 'now proper' fule air mix at idle. Spraying the TINY jets with carb cleaner is NOT typically going to clean these out and any ream will change the opening diameter with serious performance degradation. If you don't have access to a speed shop and their ultrasonic acid bath, you migt want to simply buy four new jets... for the 83 this would be 4G0-14142-42-00 about $20 plus freight at Flatout for all four... so it might be cheaper to get them local... it's a standard Mikuni jet, with a 42.5 opening. The 84 and above went to a 37.5 (even tinier) 4G0-14142-37-A0

I believe the front right and rear left are the same animal... and the front left and rear right are a slightly different critter.

When you unbolt one, you can feel the difference in weight. They have a metal core from the engine mount and about half way up the boot with the upper section all rubber. Most cracking is in the lower half, probably from engine heat. You can use black RTV to fill the cracks to make it more cosmetically pleasing but they won't leak from the lower half.

The crank case breather sounds like it's plugged somehow but there still shouldn't be "much" airflow when you pull the filler plug. Excess talks about bad rings somewhere and excessive blowby. Pull the breather hose and see if you get air out when running... if you do and it's a fair amount... it's time to do some real diagnostics (compression test).

If you go to their site they list SD1x4 which is a set of four... out of stock until 8-15 (no listing for simply SD1) SD10 which is a single... in stock clicking on details identify BOTH used on the 83-93 Venture http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?make=2&model=xvz1300&part=1&partno=&search=search&x=54&y=9 If you are seriously in need... simply call them... TUES-THURS 9-6 EST FRI 9-1 EST SAT - SUN - MON ON-LINE SHOPPING ONLY - We are proud to give our employees weekends off with their families Sirius Consolidated Inc. 44 Saltsman Dr Ste 8 Cambridge Business Park Cambridge, Ontario N3H 4R7 e-mail: sci@siriusconinc.com 716 304-9745 PHONES ARE ONLY ANSWERED TUES-THURS 9-5 (if you need a call back e-mail your number please) Fax (888) 894-2755 Ordering online is the fastest, most accurate and secure way to order from Sirius (we never see your credit card info). If you prefer to order over the phone there will be a $10 processing fee to cover the additional security measures needed to store your Credit card info. If our phones are busy (we get hundreds of calls per day) please leave a message, we will call you back within 24 hours weekdays !

The 83 and 84 use a single bolt with a locater hole that prevents rotation. Not sure about the 85. The 86-93 use a two bolt pattern so the second hole is obviously a LOT larger... kinda narrows down your pool of choices.

It could be that your radio isn't rated for driving 4 Ohm speakers and the reduced resistance is making the output amplifiers distort and the clipping shuts down the output amps, which stops the audio and thus no clipping so then kicks back on, where (at that volume) it clips and shuts down. Check the radio manual for the output resistance requirements.

The plastic plate with the gear position contacts on it has a pretty long life... the spring and in in the engine block that rotates and contacts each contact appropriately has a limited life, I would look at simply replacing those two... you will be needing the middle gear gasket and some patience! Mike

Althought the TCI is a quirky little thing, remember you have four pickup coils to check for resistance and grounding, the interconnects to insure are clean and tight and the two large connections at the TCI are clean and tight as well. Then check resistance from inside each plug holder to the ignition fuse for 24K Ohms, (10k for the plug holder and 14K for the secondary on the ignition coil). As mentioned, a leakdown test can be very crurial if you are losing compression through the rings or scratched piston wall. These beasts have a history of very long life for the main engine parts with lower rebuilds being a rarer requirements.

I know there are more parts that some might find needed... but here's the parts that went into mine. 4 22U-14147-00-00 O-ring (goes on the post under the jet block) 4 22U-14968-00-00 Cap, rubber, large (goes into the base of the jet block) 4 22V-14968-00-00 Cap, rubber, small (goes into the base of the jet block) 4 3JB-14199-00-00 Gasket (jet block gasket) 4 4G0-14142-37-A0 Pilot Jet, 37.5 (tiny idle gas jet inside jet block, MKI used a different size) 4 3LD-1490H-00-00 diaphragm set 5 (coasting enrighment valve, I suspect ethanol may have caused this to deteriorate)

KIC, I was the author of the first document and I have one serious comment after working on a couple racks... It is REALLY tough to get all of the small passages clean on the carb bodies. I finally took them down to JUST the body and with them and the jets, went to an automotive speed shop and had them run them through an ultrasonic bath of cleaner acid... those puppies were like new!!! It's imperative that the fine jet in the jet block (inside the fuel bowl) be pristine and the problem is that it's SOOOO tiny and prone to plugging just by residual build-up from the fuel so if you can't get them perfectly clean, invest a few dollars for new ones... your choice will be wildly appreciated by the bike and will reflect in the idle mixture adjust. Use of a ream must NOT change the design hole diameter, it's a very precise metering jet and the whole low end is really determined by it's precision, you can offset it a bit by the idle mixture screw under the diaphragm but you really want them all pulling the same and with the same mixture and amount.

It obviously limits the height of the "raised" bike but it makes it a whole lot easier gettin' her up... almost like a bike half it's weight. Considering I am about a half weight... it corresponds very nice! I had to love one dealer's parts guy. I explained that I had the center stand shortened and he got a very serious look and said, "You KNOW that voids the warranty!" I smiled and replied, "It's only an '86 so the warranty is probably still the same!"