SpencerPJ

So what is the difference between not firing on all 4 jugs or loss of power? It is not like a single cylinder is dropping out, it's like tach goes to zero, but that is something else I need to confirm. I printed that schematic, wow, it's actually at a level I can understand. Is that the work of Dingy, I think I stumbled across it when looking? I need to watch some youtube tutorials for using a meter, but I think I might be able to do this. So I should record all these measurements at a cold start, and then after a ride, and take the meter along and if it acts up, stop, unplug the tci and check? Good thing my tci is duck taped to the top of my airbox, very easy access.

Thanks Patch. I do have a couple meters that I use for AC and DC and continuity, etc, but never really dug into measuring resistance and oms, how etc. Maybe I'll be learning My thinking if it were ignition coils, I assume there are 4, would all them die at once. It's not typically a single cylinder popping type of miss, it's an all dead type, that leads me thinking more along the pickup coils, and why I was originally thinking tci. ps: my 83 side stand switch came part of bike, and shows as an error in the computer monitor when activated in gear. Not saying something internal isn't amuk, but does not show any symptoms.

Thanks for response. Yesterday I took front end of fairing apart, side covers, and went over every electrical connection I could, down on left side pickup coils, etc. I took for a short ride, no issues. But the issues tend to come during a longer ride, after things heat up. I do still have the original fuse block, checked all them, exchanged ignition fuse with turnsignal fuse (both 15A), all the fuse sit tight, I am pretty certain that is not the problem. I did not dig under the battery yet, I have tested my battery, and at 8+ years old, still holds charge fine, charging circuit seems fine, while riding the voltage gauge seems fine, I don't think that's the culprit. I need to take for longer ride, weather permitting this weekend. Any other suggestions? If I have an issue I know I need to dig under battery, look at side stand switch and kill switch, but with basic testing, they seem to work fine and nothing ever glitchy. Bike is low mileage and sits in a garage, so not overly exposed to the elements.

I've been reading and edumakating myself. Scary I know. I'm not sure I am smart enough to operate my basic meter to test coils etc. And then there is the issue that things are fine until good and warmed up. I found some old threads that point towards cleaning this contact and that, certainly where I need to begin.

Thanks. after investigating pickup coils, definitely seems like it could be the culprit. I will also add, I am running on an old battery, like 9 years old. I keep it on a tender, starts fine, not so much after a couple days not on the tender. Do you think the continuous charging could be causing heating issues in the ignition system? I read that bad batteries cause all sorts of electrical problems. I'll at least move that up the list to replace very soon. I cleaned misc things as suggested, took for 1.5 hr ride. Rode fine until the end, then missed a couple times. Once home, double checking side stand swith etc, all seems to work correctly, then it sat for for 1 hr, then checked the battery just sitting, no load, 12.88. Also, if the TCI was going bad, what would be a main symptom?

I have had the dang float out several times, it works fine in the open, not on bike. But the rod and float do not touch anything inside, and I've run an additional ground to the area. I will get my electronics cleaner out and at least start with the above suggestions. What the heck are 'hall sensors' ? I will keep an eye on dash lights during a failure to point towards ignition switch. Might be hard, I only go for rides on sunny afternoons, lol. Thanks, I will report back and findings.

Thanks Patch, Couple years back, by side stand broke, bike went over and a few things have acted up ever since. The dang fuel gauge, etc. I have chased wires, grounds, etc. Could the computer monitor thingy up in the dash cause this fit? I have not chased the ignition and kill switch, good cleanings certainly couldn't hurt.

What would a sign be that the TCI is going bad? I have random glitchy electrical gremlin at times. On occasion, driving along cruising speed, and bam, dead. Sometimes it refires and goes on without ever stopping. It has happened a few times this summer. Once I pulled over, key off, key on, restarted and went a few weeks. It does not seem to be fuel pump related, seems electrical. Any suggestions or advise what to look for if/when it does it again. I sure hate to get stranded in bfe riding in the country. Years ago I put my tci on my airbox, never sees water, ever, but it is original.

Great looking boat. Those tires were probably pretty old. Check your TT dates as well, after 7 or so years, replace them no matter what. I had a boat 20+ years, sold it 4 years ago, and I have regretted it ever since. I'd like to find about a 21' tritoon with a merc 200. Enjoy and be safe, lots of idiots on the water.

Sounds like the filter to me. O'Reilly sells a nice one that is clear glass. I also had a bad gas line, got pinched and starved the process. I replaced with a flexible one, made my problem worse, it would collapse under hard acceleration. I finally found the right combo and 'knock on wood', been good for a few years.

Define fried electrical.. Smoke, burn, fire? Or sizzle, snap, and no work? It could be the ignition switch? I'm sure others with experience will be along with more experience, but they will want to know more than simply, fried... Good luck, hope it's a simple cheap fix.

Good story, Glad it is working out for your son I'm not counting on Ford to be so customer service focused when my new Truck has issues. Then again, that's why Toyo and Honda came to America and kicked our locals arse in quality and service.

Sounds like a loser. Maybe the Boss can block his IP address?

Nope, less than a month ago. Some Walmart’s inside city limits, Indy, do not. But a Walmart in rural Indiana had many, 00 buck shells too. I got a 18.5 barrel online, Carlson mfg, many good reviews, and fits well. Have not shot it yet. Busy out of state relocating a recent college grad to GA.

You guys and your awesome guns 😎. I actually was at Walmart, bought a standard 870 express, and ordered a separate 18.5 barrel. All looks great, yet to shoot it.

I wouldn't compress the forks either

I won't comment on the delink, but will add that I bet you still have air in the manifold that links rear to front left brake. It is up under the fairing. You bleed it with the banjo bolt. It is the highest point in the rear brake system, and is notorious for storing air.

looks good

I seem to recall that they are the simple wedge style bulbs you will find at the local auto store. Pull the headlight and take a look.

If flipping the axle made the 5r too high, can you fabricate a block between the axle, get longer U bolts, to just raise it some? I'm on a RV Forum, and this is not uncommon, really pisses some off. Most guys just run their 5r nose high and forget about it. I would be concerned personally to lower the truck by cutting spring, It has to weigh in on the whole dynamics, and you still will have all that weight on them. Have you actually hitched up? The squat on your truck might be a more than you expect, making the tape measured values not so bad. Good Luck.

I am a procrastinator so I will not say what I would do. But given your age, and this ****ty virus tends to be extra hard on our elders, and you have 2 classic symptoms, and it's Friday, I would probably start the getting tested process. Good luck friend, and hope it's just a summer bug.

I think it is steep as well. There is a great guy on this forum, videoarizona that has a nice one for sale in our classifieds. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?143385-1989-1st-Gen-For-sale Probably cost you $700 to ship to yourself, and based on his posts over the years, he keeps his stuff well maintained. note: I'm not connect to this in any way, and is just my opinion.

I am almost positive you need to use the relay or you can draw too much power on the wires. I would guess there is already a relay there, but is it good enough? Other smarter than I, will be along soon with better answers, I just wanted to give a quick, I wouldn't before you do and regret it. Good luck

I am a fan of toothpicks. I agree, steel wool maybe in a pinch, but will rust with just the humidity where I live.

Me to like either. I always chuckle when people say, Oh Facebook is free, or Google is free. Folks, nothing is free.