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Gearhead

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Everything posted by Gearhead

  1. Gearhead
    "First thing I did was recheck the idle screw settings. All OK.... No help. Beside they're not even in the mix past 2000rpm... but I thought I'd check them anyway. ... I'm still learing on bikes but on trucks a two month sit shouldn't gum anything up. i got a '71 chev in the garage that sat for 4 yrs before i fired it " This is a fairly common problem on bikes, not just Ventures. Maybe they're more susceptible than cars because the jets are tiny. My boat (chevy engine) routinely sits for 9-10 months and then starts, but bikes are more sensitive sometimes. I agree that 2 months is awfully quick, but I had one that really needed a carb cleaning but ran OK if I kept it going, and it would get cranky in a similar timeframe of not running. It's problem was definitely in the pilot circuits. Sometimes it would clear up if I just ran it for awhile. I could remove the pilot screws, spray carb cleaner in there and it would clear up. In fact, I could see the gunk on the tips of the screws and in the holes. Condor, I disagree with your assessment of the pilots not being in effect over 2k rpm. I've seen those charts, but also read some other stuff that makes sense to me. Carbs are airflow-sensitive devices, not rpm-sensitive. So, pilots control the first 1/4 to 1/3 of the AIRFLOW range, which is dictated by a combination of rpm and throttle opening. The rpm rule of thumb for carb circuits may apply at full throttle, if you whack the throttle open at idle and hold it there up to redline. Jeremy
  2. Gearhead
    What's the damper? Can this o-ring be accessed by pulling the pan with the engine in the bike? Is it just behind the oil filter? Randy, what did you do? Replaced o-ring I know; did you replace the transmission gearsets? Split the cases, then? Jeremy
  3. Gearhead
    Another thought; if the noise is from the intake area, maybe your airbox worked loose from the carbs - it is a bugger to get on right. That might cause a lean problem and intake noise. Jeremy
  4. Gearhead
    The oil in my Venture gets black very quickly. I don't know why, but it does. Anyway, you can't tell the condition of the oil by its color. I've read in several places that the particles that give oil a black color are so small that they don't affect the oil's operation. The main problems with old oil are viscosity breakdown and acid accumulation. Does the engine pop when you are on the throttle or off? It is out the pipes or the carbs? The air intake is right under the fake "tank", so if it's from the carbs that's where you would hear it. If it's out the pipes, you might have an exhaust leak at one of the head pipes which would also cause a noise. Jeremy
  5. Gearhead
    Yeah, wires are replacable. I've not done it but lots have. And the caps can be replaced with NGK units for 5 bucks each, but you can also remove the resistors from the existing ones and check for corrosion. How does FM work? Cassette? Jeremy
  6. Gearhead
    "This bolt is actually an Oil drain for the aft part of the Tran case. " Why is this not mentioned in the manual?? I learned about it here and have done it every oil change. Enough comes out to be significant in my humble opinion - so why did the Yammy document writers ignore it? As RandyA said, this site is so cool in facilitating us to pool our various amounts of knowledge and experiences. Jeremy
  7. Gearhead
    Is it mainly the primary drive gears that make noise? (Mine does it too, BTW.) Jeremy
  8. Gearhead
    "Before you go to the troule of switching out the fuse block, I would recommend finding out why the old block is melting." Good point, but I bet the resistance is right there at the fuse clips. They are weak and brittle as has been noted, and tend not to grip tightly. Mix in a little 20+-year-old corrosion and you get high resistance. I've experienced this on two 87 Yammy's. Jeremy
  9. Gearhead
    "It's a little strange and spooky at first, but you can pull the bike upright (off the sidestand) while kneeling beside it. Get it balanced and then, using a flashlight, look at the sight glass." Yikes, I'd end up trapped under the 800 lb beastie for sure, gasping my last breaths...but to each his own! Regarding the centerstand, somebody mentioned using your instep on the stand arm - what part of the foot is that? I thought the instep was the top of the foot. (That creates a funny mental image.) As for taking the bike down, you can also do it off to the side. Put the sidestand down in advance, then grab the bike as you do when putting it up and pull it forward, then set it down on the sidestand. Jeremy
  10. Gearhead
    The fact that it doesn't really work right even in ACC mode tells me it's probably not the ignition. Maybe a short-to-ground in the antenna wire? Just guessing here... Jeremy
  11. Gearhead
    Glad you found the problem. I wonder, does that mean the self-cancelling unit is fried, or could it still be a bad connection? Anyway, there are manuals for both 83-85 AND 86+ Ventures here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3384 Jeremy
  12. Gearhead
    Great suggestions. Don't get too worried yet, it's very likely not the starter itself. Jeremy
  13. Gearhead
    So does anybody know why Yammy saw fit to design such a complicated crankcase vent? What possible purpose does it serve to have the oil, coolant and vent go thru the same box? Thanks, Jeremy
  14. Gearhead
    Condor, did you get a Yammy gasket or some aftermarket kind? One of my stock mufflers needs a gasket... Thanks, Jeremy
  15. Gearhead
    Looking forward to the first high-speed ride report! Jeremy
  16. Gearhead
    So the hose was kinked? Jeremy
  17. Gearhead
    JB Weld with thin sheet metal reinforcement on the back side. Jeremy
  18. Gearhead
    As Jimbob said it's a PAIN. I forget exactly, but putting it back on was even worse. I seem to remember hex head screws rather than phillips on mine. I might have gone up from the bottom. Or, I think I had the top triple clamp off (but all wire harnesses still connected) which allows some different angles; removal of that part is easy. Jeremy
  19. Gearhead
    I dunno, but as an excercise I found that 5cc in 5 sec equates to about 1 gal per hour, which is not enough. You don't need much pressure, just enough to push it uphill to the carbs, but you need several gal per hour. When I'm doing 80 I get mileage in the low 30's if I'm lucky, meaning I'm using almost 3 gal per hour. When you go WOT you can reportedly do 120mph, at which you probably get less than 20 mpg, which would take 6 gal per hour. Maybe your filter is clogged. Jeremy
  20. Gearhead
    "Again, if the float is stuck open it will let the gas pump right through BUT something has to be wrong in the electrical circuit to let the pump run with the key off. OR the valve is not shutting the gas off and it is running through." Other than the protrusion up by the filler cap, the tank is below the level of the carbs methinks, so that even if the pump was letting fuel by when not running, it wouldn't run uphill into the carbs. Jeremy
  21. Gearhead
    Mine has homemade vinyl boots. I didn't even know they were a factory option! By protecting your fork tubes from rocks and bug splats, they greatly lengthen the service life of the fork seals. Jeremy
  22. Gearhead
    "However, if the rotor is supposed to be that way, then why when I emailed ebc pictures of the rotor including showing the play in it, did they tell me a new rotor would be on the way within 24 hrs? " If a new one is on the way, isn't that your answer? Regarding the clutch, since you already have your old spring and a new one, why not try doubling them up for no added cost? Jeremy
  23. Gearhead
    " If the float or needle and seat is by-passing it will just flow out the over-flow tube and drain onto the rear shock" I don't think so. The "overflow" is actually a vent and is higher than the jet, so it will flow out into the intake port first. I think the EPA declared overflows onto the ground uncouth. Jeremy
  24. Gearhead
    I've always found automotive acrylic enamel to be a good way to go. Easy to spray, no clear required, shines nicely, durable. If it's still available... Plan also some extra time to repair fairing mounting tabs. You WILL find broken tabs when you start removing stuff - I would bet on it! Jeremy
  25. Gearhead
    "...the stock VMax temp switch comes on at 220 degrees. I assume that the first gen switch is the same. ... I did notice that my temp gauge seems to stay below 1/2 way after changing the switch and adding the Water Wetter fluid. Prior to that it would often hit 3/4 scale while sitting in traffic " So if we make a few assumptions, it sounds like 3/4 or so on the gage, which is where the fan comes on stock, is about 220 F. Half on the gage, which is where your fan comes on now, is 194F per the setpoint of your new switch. This applies to 1300's perhaps, since it is known that at least some 1200's have different calibration on their gages. What is the t-stat temp? Dave, what about your bike makes it a Super Sport? Jeremy
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