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Gearhead

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Everything posted by Gearhead

  1. Gearhead
    The answer to this riddle will always be 81,72,63,54,45,36,27,18 or 9. If you look at the chart, those numbers have the same symbol. Jeremy
  2. Gearhead
    These bikes run fine stock. Not to say there's no room for improvement, but they run without stumbling. If yours is stumbling at low throttle, you have a problem in the pilot circuit, probably a blockage. Don't try to fix a poorly running stock bike with new jetting, because there's something else wrong. It didn't always run like that. Jeremy
  3. Gearhead
    Factory CB mounts in RH dash panel in front of your knee. Jeremy
  4. Gearhead
    Chris, I assume you're making the connection between engine vacuum and CC not working. However, Venture CC does not operate on engine vacuum. It has its own vacuum pump. Your problem is very strange. I have no further ideas :-( Jeremy
  5. Gearhead
    I accessed the difficult nut thru the signal holes using a socket u-joint and extensions. Getting the nut and washers back on was very difficult this way, probably easier to pull the dash panel as these folks say. Jeremy
  6. Gearhead
    The problem on those two carbs may also be that the drain is clogged. Fuel may be getting in, but not draining out. Try to shoot some carb cleaner up the drain tubes with the drain screws open a few turns. Jeremy
  7. Gearhead
    Some claim significant reduction of hi-speed weave using solid engine mounts to stiffen up the frame. Jeremy
  8. Gearhead
    Hi Guys, I was just perusing the blowup on the manual and there are 3 jets of interest: Pilot Air Jet #1 - in carb inlet as stated Pilot Air Jet #2 - behind slide diaphragm Pilot Jet - located in jet block in fuel bowl So while you can access the two Pilot Air Jets, the Pilot Jet proper will require removal of the carbs and fuel bowls. To make it richer, you would have to increase the Pilot Jet or perhaps decrease the Pilot Air Jets. Don't assume that richening everything up will make mo-power. You might just end up fouling plugs and running too rich for max power. Jeremy
  9. Gearhead
    If you have an ohmmeter, you can check the bulbs out off the bike to see if they are bad. You should have some continiuity between any of combo of the three terminals, like in the 1 or 2 ohm range. Jeremy
  10. Gearhead
    Could be a bad master cylinder, but before we go there... Sometimes air gets caught in funny places. You could try first bleeding at the banjo bolt on the rear MC if it is accessible. Crack the bolt, put a rag around it, and pump the handle, see if you get fluid. Also, try a Mity-Vac - they will often bleed systems that are hard to bleed. For some reason, MC brakes and clutches tend to trap air in difficult places more often than car systems. Jeremy
  11. Gearhead
    Bongobob, that makes sense what you say. When the wheel is off, it may be the handlebars pointing backward that provides the weight aft of the steering axis necessary to self-center the fork. Indy, yup, the low-speed decel in that speed range is the worst for fork wobble. Like I said, I haven't been able to get rid of mine, but a new tire did help alot. It's fine as long as I keep my hands on the bars, with one exception: heavy braking. Twice in a month or so I had emergency stops, as in "I think I'm gonna die now" emergency stops. Both times the forks went into a violent shake despite my death grip on the bars. I stayed upright both times and missed the cars in my way by the grace of God. (FWIW, sometimes people say that you need to loosen your grip to make certain shakes go away. I think that applies more to a hi-speed weave of the whole bike, and besides, how do you loosen your grip when emergency-braking?) I remember a time way back on my old Interceptor 500, which had no head shake or wobble issues, when I had to slam on the brakes and it did a front end dance as well. Maybe that's par for the course, or bad technique, or something. Jeremy
  12. Gearhead
    Bongobob, I beg to differ here. I've never seen a bike front wheel return to center on the centerstand. Conversely, if you push the wheel slightly off center it will tend to fall to the stop. The self-centering effect happens when the weight of the bike is on the wheel and forward motion is happening. Bikerjohn, is your wobble fast and mainly in the front wheel and bars, or kinda slow (3 per second or so) and feels like the whole bike weaving? The former is often front wheel balance, but is usually worst at 30-40 mph. I can't totally get rid of my front end wobble. Jeremy
  13. Gearhead
    I just went thru all this. First, Firestik used to make fold-downs with a wing nut to tighten. No more, they killed the line. You might still be able to find one available here or there with the built-in spring; all the others seem to be gone. 203EZ is not a Firestik product. It is marketed under several brand on Ebay, but they are all from the same source. There are no other aftermarket fold-down options that I could find. 203EZ's have wiggle, apparently some more than others. Mine has wiggle, 1.5 to 2" at the top of my 3' antenna. I decided to live with it. When riding it's not noticable at all, since the tip of the antenna whips around anyway. I don't hear the mount clunking. It folds down nicely, although I thought the spring on the collar was too stiff. I disassembled the thing and had a weaker spring laying around that works nicer IMHO. I was assured that the wiggle would not cause intermittent contact or other issues with the operation of the antenna. When doing SWR testing, I shook the bike with the meter connected. The mount wiggling did not show up the SWR meter, so I guess it's fine. I dunno what kind of antenna you have, Newfoundland, but pretty much all standard aftermarket CB stuff has 3/8-24 threads. OE stuff, of course, is not. I'm under the impression that Venture, GW and Harley all use different metric threads. For maybe 30 bucks you could get an aftermarket stud mount and antenna with 3/8 threads. Jeremy
  14. Gearhead
    Good point! I've put myself into panic before when first running a compression check because the reading was so low, only to discover that I had forgotten to open the throttle. Jeremy
  15. Gearhead
    Your compression is definitely not normal and not good. That is WAY too much difference on that low cylinder. I don't think you can get a decent carb sync by ear. Don't know if these account for your problem, doesn't really seem likely, but they will affect ultimately running and idle quality. Jeremy
  16. Gearhead
    I've not noticed relative movement per se between the bars and fork. However, I do have a little fork/bar wobble in slow, tight turns, like U-turns. Perfectly controllable, but a wobble none-the-less. And I've checked the usual suspects: head bearings, wheel bearings, tires, wheel runout, etc. Jeremy
  17. Gearhead
    Tupper, I was thinking, like others said, that you just didn't realize that the stock springs were shorter than the Progressives. Then I saw your pics! Those are some REALLY small springs, shorter than stock. Plus, stock are progressively wound, yours are not. And I though what you referred to as Conduit Spacers were really the stock metal tube spacers, and then I saw your forks had both! Somebody really conducted a parts experinet with your forks! Makes me think of that Johnny Cash song about the Caddy that was a model year 55-56-57-58...etc. Jeremy
  18. Gearhead
    Tupper, I was thinking, like others said, that you just didn't realize that the stock springs were shorter than the Progressives. Then I saw your pics! Those are some REALLY small springs, shorter than stock. Plus, stock are progressively wound, yours are not. And I though what you referred to as Conduit Spacers were really the stock metal tube spacers, and then I saw your forks had both! Somebody really conducted a parts experinet with your forks! Makes me think of that Johnny Cash song about the Caddy that was a model year 55-56-57-58...etc. Jeremy
  19. Gearhead
    Hi guys. The RH dash panel - CB mount on my 87 VR is kinda trashed. Do any of you have one in decent condition you'd like to sell? I'm talking about the panel that screw in with 6 allen-head screws and directly holds the CB and the CLASS swing-up assembly. I might also be interested in the larger dash panel on the RH side, the one that the above panel mounts to and which holds the speaker. Thanks, Jeremy
  20. Gearhead
    A couple of you guys were maybe looking for a rear shock for a 1st gen. Check this out quick! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-1992-YAMAHA-VENTURE-100-WORKING-AIR-SHOCK_W0QQitemZ260251643579QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item260251643579& Jeremy
  21. Gearhead
    That sounds right - 1.5" shock travel. I too broke a spring seat. Before I installed the Progressive shock, I was trying to be a cheapo and made a couple spring wedges to try to stiffen it up. They worked, but not as well as I hoped, so I made thicker wedges. I thought they were thin enough to avoid coil bind, but evidently I was wrong. I bought the Progressive shock after that. Jeremy
  22. Gearhead
    Squeeze, what's "picking"? Is it like jerking, or grabbing, or chattering? Jeremy
  23. Gearhead
    Squeeze, are you saying the concave ring, when installed, is concave or convex, as viewed from the RH side of the engine? As far as torquing the nut and holding the shaft from turning with the transmission, I think the problem is that all that torque is placed on a single point of contact between gear teeth. Under operation, the gears are always turning and the contact point is changing. Jeremy
  24. Gearhead
    Yup, clutch baskets make a little noise. As they wear, the friction disk fingers wear little grooves in the basket fingers (which can affect clutch operation though I've never had it be a problem) which allows more slop for the discs and causes more noise from the basket. When I bought mine the clutch basket made quite a bit of noise; I thought at the time that I might have to replace it just based on the noise. But my carbs turned out to be way out of sync and the uneven idle was exacerbating the noise greatly! It was MUCH quieter after the sync. Kinda makes sense, but I'd never have guessed it! I find it interesting that your friction discs are appreciably worn. Did you compare them to spec? Reason I ask is this: on my VR and also my Virago, I had to replace the clutch at 50-60K miles due to slipping. In both cases the friction discs looked perfect, measured like new, and had no visible damage. However, replacing them cured the slip. I didn't increase spring pressure, didn't replace anything but the friction discs in both cases. Go figure. Jeremy Jeremy
  25. Gearhead
    When you do the bench test, subject the carbs to some vibration (wiggle them a little with your hands) to simulate being mounted on an engine and see if that affects your reading at all. Jeremy
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