Jump to content

Gearhead

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    971

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Gearhead

  1. Gearhead
    I beg to differ on the LEDs. They are still dimmer and much more directional than incandescent bulbs. They have potential, but it requires a WHOLE BUNCH of them and the light fixture really has to be designed for them to work right. This is because the reflector inside a standard fixture is ineffective with LEDs due to the fact that they don't put out any sideways light. I tried some bulb replacements that had some LEDs installed radially in addition to those facing straight out. I hoped these would give it significant sideways lighting so the reflectors would work - they didn't and the light was horrible. There are available for some bikes a big ol' board of LED's that either covers or replaces the ENTIRE reflector which does a nice job then of illuminating the whole lens. They are expensive. 2357 bulbs will give you a little better brake light brightness; no different on the tail light. Personally, I think the big honkin' tail light on the Venture is darn bright already! If you want more, you might consider separate LED fixtures mounted on the trunk, bags, etc. View them before you buy, though, because some LED fixtures are MUCH brighter than others, and again, they are directional so consider the angle of your mounting surface. We have a local truck stop here that has a huge display of them. Finally, if you do install LED bulb replacements in your tail light, the blown bulb indicator in the CMS will activate due to the low current draw. However, if you replace one bulb and leave the other incandescent, that will not happen. The light will appear asymmetrical, though. Jeremy
  2. Gearhead
    Factory plug caps have about 10k ohm resistance. If somebody has installed NGK caps then they will probably be about 5k. I've not had my TCI out so this is just a rough idea. The screws come up from the bottom, thru the TCI flanges and into the threaded holes in the crossmember under the battery box - right? Can you access the tips of the screws (threaded end) from the top with the batt box out? How about this: Center punch and drill out the screws from the top. Drill threads out and countersink from top. Install some kind of nut plates on the TCI flanges - clip, glue, whatever you can do. Maybe T-nuts or well nuts (available at HW store) Use flat head screws to screw down into the TCI nut plates from the top. (Flat head to allow batt box to sit flat. If there's sufficient room for a hex head bolt, use that instead. Will that work? Of course, it you move it up top I guess this is moot. If you use an AGM battery, you won't have these corrosion problems in the future. Jeremy
  3. Gearhead
    Pretty sure the manual lists charging capacity at 30A at 5k rpm or so. At 12V that is 360W, at 14V that is 420W. Don't know the bike's power consumption; that has been the subject of some debate. My anecdotal evidence shows that the bike with the radio on draws around 20A, maybe a little less. I say this because: I always ride with the radio on. Having added (2) 55W lights to mine, it seems to keep up, charging-wise, but it's questionable if I'm in stop-and-go (low engine speeds, brake lights). I also added 3 amps worth of heated grips, the system has no problem with those. Run them both, however, and after awhile the engine won't start because the batt is slowly depleted. It might keep up if I'm on the freeway consistently, not sure. My charging system checks out OK and, thank God, I've had no stator issues...yet... To clarify my question about the stator always putting out full amperage: of course that varies with RPM - more RPM = more amperage. The regulator unit also contains the rectifier, changing AC stator output to DC. In keeping the voltage down to reasonable levels, it must get rid of any excess current. A car alternator has a electromagnet armature that gets power thru brushes. When demand is great, the regulator increases voltage to the armature so the magnet is stronger, making more power in the stator. Conversely, to cut output it decreases the armature voltage so less power is produced in the stator. On our Ventures the armature is a permanent magnet, so the stator is always putting out all the power (volts and amps) it can. The regulator / rectifier dumps the excess to ground to control the voltage. Thus the question - does electrical load on the bike, in any way, change the stator current, or is it purely a function of RPM? Jeremy
  4. Gearhead
    You can probably get the vac advance to kick in sooner, but not more of it. The total amount is determined by the programming of the TCI, so I'd think the max is the max. All you can theoretically do is convince the TCI that the boost / pressure sensor is showing a higher vacuum than you really have. Jeremy
  5. Gearhead
    I've asked this before, but doesn't the stator put out it's maximum for any given RPM all the time? The excess is dumped to ground thru the regulator. Thus, a heavy electrical load shouldn't affect stator life. Jeremy
  6. Gearhead
    It's good to hear of the service you got! Jeremy
  7. Gearhead
    No, it's not good. I fear that Yammy is phasing out the parts entirely. Diaphragms for my 87 Virago are no longer available, haven't been for years. I just ordered some rear suspension bushings and most was available, but one of the thrust washers or seals (don't remember which) is no longer available - period. I bet all the parts are headed in that direction. Just my guess. Jeremy
  8. Gearhead
    Hmm, dunno. I got the ones for my 87 from Zanotti. I ordered, from the part fish, a 1FK-14940-00-00, which was superceded by a 1FK-14940-09-00. They fit fine. Oh my gosh, the price has gone up 50% in the last 16 months! Jeremy
  9. Gearhead
    IMHO, stators just go when they feel like it. Might have to do with the climates they are run in over the years. Some say it depends on the electrical loads placed on them over time, although I'm not sure about that. If it ain't broke, I wouldn't fix it. Just my 2 cents. Jeremy
  10. Gearhead
    5bikes, Well, it could be a simple typo. While on that subject, I question the advance curve anyway. It shows the "vacuum advance" as effective right off idle. IIRC, in practice it doesn't kick in until almost 2k rpm. Not because there's no vacuum below that, but because that's how the TCI is programmed. Second thought is to echo what pegscraper said at first. Maybe Yammy is quoting absolute pressure rather than vacuum. High vacuum = low absolute pressure. They do call the thing a "boost sensor" after all. What kind of a name is that for a vacuum advance, anyway? Third idea: The manual listed for 83-85 shows the same timing diagram as the manual for 86+. I know from this site that the 83 was connected differently than all the others. Vacuum comes off the carb somewhere. It could simply be ported vacuum which is about the same once you're off idle, but I think I've read that it operates backward, as in, you get more vacuum at the connection point as the throttle opens. You know, as I type that it really doesn't make any sense. But if true, maybe the manual was written for that and never modified. I think to modify the ignition curve you'd have to either: 1) Rotate the pickup coil plate in the engine case cover, which I've read here that there's really not room to do. 2) Be really clever with electronics and alter either the boost sensor's output or the TCI's ignition curve. Jeremy
  11. Gearhead
    Jimbob, how much did you lower those needles? I'm fixin' to do the same on my 87, as soon as I get some spare time (without something else in my life breaking - grrrrrrrr) to get her back on the road. Kirk, your 38 mpg is right in line with what most get, including me. Some get more, some less, but most are right in that range. Try this for your vacuum advance: remove the vac line from the carb, plug the carb so no leak, set the engine idle to 2000 rpm or so. Apply vacuum to the line. A MityVac is ideal, but I think mouth suction is sufficient. Does the engine change speed? Your fuel levels look about right. I like to get a little more precise. I make a sharpie mark right in the middle of each slide cover for reference. Then I make two marks on my measurement tube, one .63 lower than the other. I line the upper mark to the center of the cover, then read the fuel level as even with, above or below the lower mark which is the target. Jeremy
  12. Gearhead
    Yes, I just double-checked for the 87 and you are right. Re-check your fuel levels with the method I outlined (burping the lines). Jeremy
  13. Gearhead
    I believe it's a great leak-stopper. But how in the heck is it really supposed to balance the tire? Does it magically deposit more of itself where the tire is light? That part sounds like snake oil. Somebody show me! Jeremy
  14. Gearhead
    Couple comments on the float level measurement. One, I do it with the engine idling. Shouldn't really make a difference, but try it. Two, did you burp the tubes? Air bubbles in the tubes will make it read, let's see, high (which isn't your problem, but check it out). Open the drain screw a turn or so, lower the gage down so the fuel almost runs out the top, then lift it up as high as it will go. Do this a couple times to get the air bubbles out. Jeremy
  15. Gearhead
    Or the rear tire. Jeremy
  16. Gearhead
    Yeah, you're right about the diagram. But I'm pretty sure I've measured it and in actuality the extra advance does not start at idle. I could be wrong though, should double-check. Maybe I'm thinking of the Virago, which I know does not vacuum-advance until 2k or so. Jeremy
  17. Gearhead
    Neil, I agree with your premise 100%. But FWIW, the vac advance doesn't kick in until close to 2000 RPM. Jeremy
  18. Gearhead
    I've wondered about the arrow too. A hole shouldn't care which way it's installed. Also, assuming the carbs are properly synced, vacuum on all of them is equal so it doesn't matter which carb it's connected to. Kirk, I just read this: Is that your only mileage check since removing the restrictor? Where'd "about 43 mpg" come from? That would be 40 Imp MPG and 33 US MPG. Nevertheless, the change from ~20 to even 33 is remarkable. The 83, I've read here, uses some form of ported vacuum (taken from above the throttle plate), while all others use manifold vacuum (taken from below the throttle plate). Above the throttle plate has no vacuum at idle and differs from manifold vacuum under other conditions as well. As you and Squeeze pointed out, the "boost sensor" (or vacuum sensor as it should be called) is the same for 83 and the others. Therefore, the TCI box must be different between the two models. All the boost sensor does is output voltage based on the vacuum in the line; it is the TCI's job to interpret that voltage and alter the spark advance curve accordingly. At any rate, you've verified that the boost sensor is working, and since it's an 87 you need to connect to manifold vacuum (on the carb mounting stub). Are you sure you didn't change anything else at the same time? Jeremy
  19. Gearhead
    The boost sensor in my 87 was not working due to corroded electrical contacts. Repairing it was worth 3 or 4 MPG. I think mine has the restrictor, assumed the same function pegscraper just said. Mine is also a CA model. I removed the canister, no change. I installed a little filter for the carb vents. Jeremy
  20. Gearhead
    All connections on old bikes are suspect, but esp. ones that carry a lot of current most of the time. Other ones that cause people a lot of grief are the regulator DC plug (with red and black wires, near the one you messed with - clean it as well), the pickup coil connector in the same area and the TCI connector. NEVER assume you have a bad electrical part until you've thoroughly checked the connections! Jeremy
  21. Gearhead
    What about extra noise in your radio and audio system? Jeremy
  22. Gearhead
    Ahhh...congrats! Thinking about this myself. I'd rather have one of those temp switches with a lower set point, but don't really want to spend 50 bucks on it. Jeremy
  23. Gearhead
    One more thing: when you're riding you can tell if the fan is on by feeling for the hot air. When it is running, there is a strong flow of hot air from the little chrom-ish grilles on the radiator side covers. Reach down there with one hand. Jeremy
  24. Gearhead
    I've only replaced the plugs in my 87 VR once, replaced NGK's that looked not bad really, with new NGK's just because. They were only 2 bucks a pop at Pep Boys, not too bad. But I will express a little different opinion; I've run Champs in my Virago for years simply because they were only a buck apiece at Pep Boys. (Yeah, there are only two of them in a Virago, but I used to be even cheaper than I am now.) I ran them a long time, 20k miles plus on a set, and they were fine. Frankly, I've never noticed any difference switching plug brands in anything. Jeremy
  25. Gearhead
    Does anybody have an old mag test for a 1300cc VR? Jeremy
×
×
  • Create New...