BratmanXj

No mic mutes, bike's system is virtually stock.

BTW, it's helpful to get a lighted switch that shows if its on or off...how else do you tell if your spot lamps are on while your seated on the bike with no cars to check for your reflection

Do you have the EdSet or a BuddyRick cable? I tried to install the EdSet Mic Splitter cable last night to my Zumo 660 and the wife on the other end of the phone call only gets static. The EdSet website does not say that you need their headsets for the Mic Splitter cable to work properly, so I'm wondering if that's only for the BlueTooth. I did put in a troubleshooting e-mail to them this morning, but just checking other routes for ideas.

They appear to be a mom & pop dealer of out Pennsylvania and there's a phone number & e-mail address on the website. Reach out and see if you get a real person to talk to and place an order vs through the website.

Thank you very much, did not realize that Edsets made it and after a quick search I have one on order. The little guy has been riding with me back and forth to the family cottage and when the wife loses me she decides to call, then gets mad because I didn't answer?!?

From searching the forum it looks like he's no longer making the cables and isn't really active on the forum anymore. Does anyone have a viable alternative option, or possibly have a BuddyRich cable laying around that they might want to sell? I've got a Zumo 660 hardwired to the bike and from what I understand it should work...

My mother was born in the Netherlands and emigrated here in '53 with my grandparents and great aunt & uncle, most of my family is still over there. Some distant cousins still run the 1600's watermolen grain mill that is of similar all wooden construction. My father was a life-long carpenter and we got a full tour & instructions on how to run the mill while we were there.

One of the better flexible rubber glues I've found is GOOP. Its a thick rubber cement and you'll have to clamp the parts together for a few hours to let it set. I've used their various formulas for shoe soles, rubber chafe pads on canvas tarps, and high wear places in automotive interiors.

My rubber is worn only along the outside 1/4 of the pedal, too. I debated riveting a plate on the arm and finding a small automotive brake or clutch pad. In 7 years of ownership I've never had an issue HITTING the pedal when I wanted to and figured I'd leave myself the extra floor-board space.

Jumping in so I can come back to this later. My bike gave me no-start fits for a few days and I believe its in the right side kill switch. I was able to get some contact cleaner sprayed into the housing and work it loose so the bike starts but I'd really like to break it open and do a through cleaning.

I've been eyeing their version of the Browning Hi Power https://www.brownells.com/firearms/handguns/semi-auto/regent-br9-9mm-4-6-13-1-prod118691.aspx

That was a Typo.... I NOW have 12v. Those LED's just don't wanna work cleanly on this bike.

Ordered a new flasher relay and NOW have the correct 12v at the turn signal wires on the break-out harness. The strip lights I was trying to install still have the funky amber-off-red-off flash pattern when my buddies have a distinctive Amber-off flash cycle that completely over-rides the run/brake red lights. I've given up on the vertical LED's along the fender brackets. I've tried contacting the seller multiple times with no response so I've filed a complaint with Paypal. We'll see where this goes. In the mean time I found a different LED setup that works a little better.

Did you kink the brake line when reinstalling? Possibly rotating the caliper the wrong way to reinstall. Possibly jammed the brake pad that its handing up at an angle in the caliper?

Flyinfool, Can you do me a favor a double check my diagnostics of the flasher relay against your bike as I assume a 1st gen & 2nd gen should have the same input & output from the flasher circuit. Do you have 12v on the relay output WITHOUT the flashers on as written in the manual or do you need to have the flashers on to get 12v? Edit: Nevermind, I forgot you sold your bike. Anyone else able to put a meter to their flasher relay for me?

Happy Birthday!

Ok, cracked open the manual and followed the electrical / signal system diagnostics. I HOPE its really just this simple... 1. Check incoming voltage to Hazard relay - Brown/Red wire on the relay harness is showing 12-ish volts on my meter. 2. Check what I believe is the outgoing voltage from the Hazard relay, but the instruction manual isn't clear on this step. If you check this with only the ignition on there is NO voltage to the Brown/White wire, if you turn on the hazards I'm only getting 8v. So, either its bad NOT having any voltage or its bad not passing enough voltage. Again, electrical is my biggest week point when it comes to automotive repair. So, before I dump $50 on a new flasher relay one does this sound plausible?

No, its not your connector. I put the factory configuration back together and tested the turn sockets and getting a max "spike" on my DVOM of 8v at various locations around the bike. All of the BIKE'S systems work fine with or without the breakout. The LED control box isn't getting enough voltage on the turn signal wire to kick off the run/brake lights.

The front and rear turn sockets are hitting the same 8-ish volts, I pulled the fairing and even the connectors just past the flasher are 8 volts. On a whim I relayed the circuit straight to the battery and run/turn/brake all function correctly. So my "lack of 12v turn" does appear to be the culprit. So... 1. Do I forgo the LEDs? 2. Diagnose the hell out of the system? 3. Bypass with Relays and make it work?

I put a jumper wire directly to the battery ground and tied back to BOTH the factory breakout harness & the LEDs. I put on the right turn signal and get a faint yellow flash in time with the turn signal. If I connect the run light it goes to the red-off-yellow-off pattern again. If I run a jumper from the LED turn back to the battery hot I get a nice bright yellow. I have a decent DVOM and it only hits 7.5v on the breakout turn signal. I think that turn signal "low voltage" is whats causing my problems of the LED driver control not kicking off the run/brake light because it's not seeing enough voltage. The battery shows 12.4v and is only 2 years old and well maintained. Does this make sense? And what would cause this? A failing flasher unit?

I was wondering that, and was about to look into the pin config and swap the solid state flasher out of the other bike into the Venture, but then did the following test.... I hooked the LED ground directly to the battery negative terminal and kept the LED yellow leads connected to the breakout harness and I have decent yellow turn signals on the strips. As soon as I tie in the tail light function the LEDs go "off-pattern" and I get a Red flash-off-Yellow Flash-off pattern that it doesn't do in my buddies Nomad. I put a diode in-line with the tail light and that still didn't fix the odd pattern.

P.S. make sure you turn down the volume cause the kid is making noises in the background.... So I disconnected the Run-Brake wires for the LED strips and put on the Hazards and I barely get a yellow flash out of them. Almost like I'm not getting 12v or a very short dwell time that the LEDs can't respond quick enough.

1st thing I tried before I even came to the forum... With the LED strips installed, the OEM turn signals connected and the C.D. LED run/brake board disconnected - still had the whacky yellow turn signal flash on the LED strips as shown in the original video.

"Converter" box I was speaking of....it's the control box that runs the input to the LEDs. Its NOT a trailer plug converter! So I set the DVOM to 200k Ohms and tested the leads going TO the LEDs (or should I say going into the control box) and have resistance ranging from 7.5k to 178k. Do we need the whole breakdown of impedance? So, please teach me O' wise one. How do I fix this mess?

I was about to order a set of Custom Dynamics Plasma Rods for $180 and my Kawi riding buddies swear by these. I know of at least 2 guys who have wired them on Nomad or Vaquero with out much hassle. http://m-factorystore.com/for-vulcan-1700-vaquero-voyager-integrated-30cm-led-turn-signal-tail-brake-light/