BratmanXj

Also there should be drawings on the internet for the fabricated metal brackets to fit HD mounts to the Venture mounts. Some guys have used P-clamps around the saddlebag brackets with good luck too.

Agreed, had the offered something like Honda did with the Valkyrie, a standard, a touring, and the "interstate" I probably would have been in for one.

When I purchased my '99 it had the same "super sized" windshield on it and I hated looking through it. I purchased an inexpensive e-Bay 10" shield that was just below my nose (I'm 6'2) and HATED that thing.... Yes I could see over it but the wind management was horrible and I couldn't ride more than an hour without getting a headache. If I had to wear a full-face helmet it would shake me so bad I couldn't go above 45mph. I ended up getting a 19" clearview (they measure the height different) and it's just above my nose but I can easily see over it. The shield has a recurve to it so the top rolls up steeper than the rest of the shield and pushes the wind up and over your head, I also have the vent which eliminates the low pressure behind the fairing and smooths out the airflow. I don't have any good photos, but here's one during installation.

They had a demo day in the western burbs of Chicago a few years back and I went with some riding buddies who had either retro-classis or sport-touring Triumphs. I always liked my buddies Trophy 1200 sport tourer, the 3-cyl bikes had a unique wail and power delivery than the typical jap I-4 bikes, and the retro bikes were just old school cool. So I sign up and I grab the Rocket Tour on our 1st trip out, now it's "detuned" and only 105hp but 155ft-lb, but I figured I'd tiptoe into the big bike. They actually took us on the highway and I didn't even realize I was running 3rd gear at 80mph the engine was that smooth and just kept pulling. 2nd time out I grab the standard Rocket and lifted the front wheel at one point and actually out-accelerated a 675 Daytona. That bike was just to much fun, but so big and fast I would have EASILY gotten myself in to much trouble un-chaperoned.

Sorry to Hijack Steve, Are you looking for a full face setup? I have a spare complete set with a wired mic that you Velcro to the chin bar. All my boom mics are in use.

I run EBC Double H on the fronts, but I've always preferred the softer braking standard organic pads

I've had very good luck with both the Shinko 777HD and the 230 Tourmaster. I actually liked the ride of the 230 Tourmaster better. I've tried the Nexan but the setup on my bike was not happy with that tire no mater what tire pressure I tried. I do have a 130-18" Stratoliner front wheel, HD Hagon rear shock, Sonic fork springs so I'm NOT stock in any way. I'm currently running the BFG and I think the slightly smaller diameter squats the back end of the bike a little, hence more trail in the steering, and the bike is a little more accepting of the tire.

Not a Strat, but I've had a few RoadStar Warriors in the stable as well as and for a short while was taking care of a Raider with the same 1850cc motor.

The rubber on the old seal was just shot, no plasticity left. The output hub spun smoothly with very little play, there was no scoring that I could see or feel. I don't believe there was anything detrimental to the operation of the final drive that caused the seal failure. The bike is a '99 with 80k miles; I sorta know the old owner and the bike was used for long trips infrequently and sat for 3yrs before I bought it with 40k miles. Buddy helped me re-assemble the bike last night, but nothing has been torqued down yet... Had a hold-down strap tear and break while the bike was up on the lift!!!!

After a 2 week delay when Amazon lost my new scissor lift so I could pull the rear wheel on the stand I FINALLY got around to pulling the final drive. When I pulled the rear wheel the bike just poured gear-lube. The old seal was in such bad shape half of it fell out and the other half I was able to pick out with my nail. New one pressed in and bike is almost back together....

I've used the "high mileage touring" tires like the E3 and the Commander2 on past bikes and they never felt THIS different. Again, I have this bike set up kind of weird with the HD rear shock and the thinner front tire so when you add in a stiff-side walled rear tire it REALLY sets the back end up high. I've since switched back to my Tourmaster230 rear that has the same 80 load rating. I get a solid year of riding out of 1 tire so the relatively short service life compared to the touring tires doesn't bother me.

The bike just never seemed planted on the E4, always just a little bit squirrely. I typically run "softer" Shinko 777 or 230 tires and will get 8-10k per $80 tire. I figured I'd splurge and buy a good tire this time. I've put 5k on it and it still feels like a brand new tire I'm trying to break in. I have a Hagon HD shock and a Stratoliner 130-18 front wheel, so my experiences on how my bike handle are a bit different than people with relatively stock bikes.

Bike is a '99 with 78k miles, it started showing up last year when I installed a new tire and much worse this year after another tire change (That Dunlop E4 is the worst feeling tire I've ever ridden on). Everything else feels good and sturdy on the final drive, no play in the hub or the wheel bearings. I did have the whole back end off 25k miles ago to grease and torque the swing arm. If the differential were misaligned it should have shown up closer to that service than now. The bike is up and taken apart, new seal is on order...if something odd creeps up I'll make sure to post it up here.

@RedRider Thank you thank you, I did pull my rear wheel off and inspect. I must have over-tightened the axle last time and put a nice wear groove in that seal.

I originally had the u-bolt style mounts down at the bottom of the handlebars next to the risers, but it was awkward to access the ignition switch. I later replaced them with Ram clutch top mounts. The right brake-master typically has a Ram X-Mount to hold my phone and the right clutch-master has the Garmin Zumo 660 Mount that is permanently tied into the bike. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CMNXIO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_065GV8G554SE5MFV607D

I'm not finding any video's specific to the Venture (or similar Vmax) on the seal replacement, but I assume most of the Yamaha gear driven bikes have a similar setup. I found the following video for a Super Tenere that shows an externally removable oil seal and a very close part number on the Tenere vs the Venture. So this should be good news on replacing my oil seal.

Middle of last year I started to see some grime build-up under the bike, 1st long ride this year and the drive side of the rear tire is covered in oil. Haven't pulled the rear tire yet but I believe the oil seal on the final drive is starting to go out. I'm looking through the manual and R&R of the oil seal isn't very well defined. Can this be replaced "externally" or does the final drive need to come apart to replace from inside the faceplate? I believe the drive hub oil seal is 93102-70167-00

I have done the same one a few bikes over the years. I'd get good fluid movement on the system but it never really was "good" feel on the lever. Let it sit over-night and the last bit of air would typically work its way out.

EBC makes a heavy duty direct swap diaphragm spring. I used EBC on my last Kawasaki Concours when the factory spring blew up. Barnet makes a coil spring pressure plate that is a bolt on replacement. I've run this on heavily modified Road Star Warriors over the years with good results, many on this forum have run this same plate. My current RSV has the "Double D" modification. I took one of the used the Rs Warrior diaphragm springs I had laying around and doubled up the stock diaphragm spring on my '99.

My little guy has gotten to the point of showing the girls HIS motorcycle at car shows....

Correct, the FBI put out ballistic requirements after the 1986 Miami shooting and were testing 9mm, .45 ACP and some .38 Spc +P when the agent in charge threw his own 10mm pistol into the mix. FBI requested S&W make a lower velocity round based on their existing 4500 series handgun. My local Cabela's is like watching hyenas pounce on a kill when 9mm, .45ACP & .22 gets put out on the shelf. There is typically stock of .40S&W or 10mm on the shelf.

Took advantage of this weekends 10-12" snowfall to get out and do a little bit of riding.

The mounts for the latest Sena bluetooth headsets have an AUX out for earbuds. I've been playing with my new headsets with the earbuds on a 1/2 helmet since I typically wear ear plugs anyways. BUT the newest Sena 50 line supposedly has better quality speakers over the 20 & 30. Also Sena also makes a helmet mount for the 20s, 30k & 50s models of intercoms that has a second INPUT so you can run either the bluetooth AND the stock bike's intercom, or both together. I'll be picking up some of these later this year so I can swap back and forth between the two bikes. https://www.amazon.com/Sena-UNIVERSAL-HELMET-GOLDWING-SC-A0317/dp/B07FS8B4XX/ref=pd_ybh_a_22?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=904G3CNHR3FGRQK4WPDT

720p looks fine on the 4" viewing screen, on most any smart phone, tablet or laptop. Are you planning on watching your dash cam on a wide screen super high def large screen TV? Is 1080i worth 3x the price?

The last few weeks I've been heading into the office early at 6:30am before the sun comes up. Had to stop at a job site today so left the house in daylight. REALLY debated riding in on the URAL.