BratmanXj

The Speedo-healer is a double edge sword, fix the speedometer error and it introduces odometer error as they are related systems. I am currently running one since I'm darkside on a smaller diameter rear tire. When I switch back to a MC tire I'll end up taking it back out and live with the 3-5mph inaccuracy of the speedo.

When I first purchased my '99 it had a short eBay special windshield. I could ride fine without a helmet (non-helmet state) but it would shake me senseless with any of my helmets on. Ended up getting a nice deal on a short Clearview with vent off this forum and all the buffeting went away. 1. The Clearview had a recurve on the top to kick the wind up and over your head 2. Its wider than any of the stock shields to kick more wind to the side 3. The vent eliminates (or lessens) the low pressure bubble behind the fairing & windshield, again smoothing out the airflow around your body & helmet. Most people get upset when they don't feel a discernable flow of air when they open the vent thinking its going to be like a cars A/C system.... its more about fluid dynamics and air pressure control.

https://www.landingear.com/ Movable training wheels... no real world experience but I've seen a few write-ups on the system.

I did the work myself over the course of a winter. When I bought the bike the steering was LOOSE where you could feel a click when rocking the bike. Added a HID headlight, GPS with Buddy Rich, and Spot Lamps while I had the whole front end apart.

Exactly my point. I've been on bikes where a CT was a non-issue, but the Venture just doesn't seem to respond well to it. I don't knock the guys who swear by it, because for THEIR BIKE its a perfectly acceptable option. I don't tell people it doesn't work, but that it doesn't for FOR MY SITUATION.

I've got 75k on my Venture. Swing arm was taken apart, greases and reassembled. I had the front end apart and installed Sonic springs and new steering head bearings at 55k miles. I've gone down the final-drive alignment when the drive seals when out at 70k. I have a Stratoliner 130-18" front wheel and a Hagon rear shock. At this point I think I've got a pretty stable setup on the bike and it just doesn't respond well (or to my liking) of having a CT.

I've had similar experiences as you with running a CT on the back of the Venture. I've been on Vulcans and Valkyries running CT rears that felt stable and planted, but so far my experiences with the Venture have been less than stellar. I've previously had the Nexian 165/80-15 and assumed the squirrely handling was attributed to the tire being slightly taller than OEM and working against the 130 (narrower) front tire I have mounted. I went up and down the pressure range with no real solution. The bike was perfectly rideable up until 60-65mph where it became a handful wanting to wobble. I was given a free BFG 155-80-15 and currently have it on the rear of my bike. With the slightly less tall rear tire I'm stable up until about 75mph but with the same minor-wobble after that. Again, tried the same up and down in pressure ranges and the bike just doesn't feel as stable as with a MC or as stable as the other bikes I've been on with CT. I'll be replacing the rear soon and going back to my Shinko 230 Tourmaster. I came, I tried, I did not like running a CT on the back of the Venture.

Same here in the Chicago area, went to the indoor event in '20 before the shut down and got looked at weird when I was trying to size a helmet for 7yr old son...it was only display models at the few venders there. I had friends go to the outdoor '21 event and said, like you, it was basically a test drive event and nothing more.

I don't get much airflow through the vent, but I didn't expect to. My knowledge of fluid dynamics (us wonderful engineers!) knew that, in certain conditions, it's just enough airflow to break up the low pressure "bubble" behind the fairing a quell buffeting of the high speed air going over the windshield. This was the #1 reason why I went with a Clearview in the 1st place, having tried various other brands & heights that just didn't work for me.

Brakes Brakes Brakes.... Just like the tires, the rubber lines can dry-rot as well. There's reasonably prices braided stainless options available on this forum. At minimum, flush fluids and new pads. The clutch diaphragm springs are notorious for getting weak. If you feel a slipping clutch at higher RPMs its mostly likely a bad spring and fairly easy to replace. With that low a mileage your friction plates are good and replacements springs range from $40 to $140 for the Barrnett pressure plate (that I believe is overkill). Clutch is hydraulic, check the slave cylinder for leaks. Left side between the clutch cover and the trans cover, you can see a rubber flap but behind the base of the rear cylinder in my attached photo. Again, not expensive but could be a potential shifting/slipping issue on a bit that's sat. The engine cooling fins are "fake" bolt on items and there are rubber cooling plugs under them. If you see coolant sitting on base of the cylinders don't be to alarmed. The plugs are inexpensive and and a quick fix. You can see the little rubber & brass insert's at the base of the front & rear cylinders in my photo.

Brother-in-law works in a machine shop and I'm an engineer with AutoCAD.... gave him a scale drawings and had brackets the next day.

Also there should be drawings on the internet for the fabricated metal brackets to fit HD mounts to the Venture mounts. Some guys have used P-clamps around the saddlebag brackets with good luck too.

Agreed, had the offered something like Honda did with the Valkyrie, a standard, a touring, and the "interstate" I probably would have been in for one.

When I purchased my '99 it had the same "super sized" windshield on it and I hated looking through it. I purchased an inexpensive e-Bay 10" shield that was just below my nose (I'm 6'2) and HATED that thing.... Yes I could see over it but the wind management was horrible and I couldn't ride more than an hour without getting a headache. If I had to wear a full-face helmet it would shake me so bad I couldn't go above 45mph. I ended up getting a 19" clearview (they measure the height different) and it's just above my nose but I can easily see over it. The shield has a recurve to it so the top rolls up steeper than the rest of the shield and pushes the wind up and over your head, I also have the vent which eliminates the low pressure behind the fairing and smooths out the airflow. I don't have any good photos, but here's one during installation.

They had a demo day in the western burbs of Chicago a few years back and I went with some riding buddies who had either retro-classis or sport-touring Triumphs. I always liked my buddies Trophy 1200 sport tourer, the 3-cyl bikes had a unique wail and power delivery than the typical jap I-4 bikes, and the retro bikes were just old school cool. So I sign up and I grab the Rocket Tour on our 1st trip out, now it's "detuned" and only 105hp but 155ft-lb, but I figured I'd tiptoe into the big bike. They actually took us on the highway and I didn't even realize I was running 3rd gear at 80mph the engine was that smooth and just kept pulling. 2nd time out I grab the standard Rocket and lifted the front wheel at one point and actually out-accelerated a 675 Daytona. That bike was just to much fun, but so big and fast I would have EASILY gotten myself in to much trouble un-chaperoned.

Sorry to Hijack Steve, Are you looking for a full face setup? I have a spare complete set with a wired mic that you Velcro to the chin bar. All my boom mics are in use.

I run EBC Double H on the fronts, but I've always preferred the softer braking standard organic pads

I've had very good luck with both the Shinko 777HD and the 230 Tourmaster. I actually liked the ride of the 230 Tourmaster better. I've tried the Nexan but the setup on my bike was not happy with that tire no mater what tire pressure I tried. I do have a 130-18" Stratoliner front wheel, HD Hagon rear shock, Sonic fork springs so I'm NOT stock in any way. I'm currently running the BFG and I think the slightly smaller diameter squats the back end of the bike a little, hence more trail in the steering, and the bike is a little more accepting of the tire.

Not a Strat, but I've had a few RoadStar Warriors in the stable as well as and for a short while was taking care of a Raider with the same 1850cc motor.

The rubber on the old seal was just shot, no plasticity left. The output hub spun smoothly with very little play, there was no scoring that I could see or feel. I don't believe there was anything detrimental to the operation of the final drive that caused the seal failure. The bike is a '99 with 80k miles; I sorta know the old owner and the bike was used for long trips infrequently and sat for 3yrs before I bought it with 40k miles. Buddy helped me re-assemble the bike last night, but nothing has been torqued down yet... Had a hold-down strap tear and break while the bike was up on the lift!!!!

After a 2 week delay when Amazon lost my new scissor lift so I could pull the rear wheel on the stand I FINALLY got around to pulling the final drive. When I pulled the rear wheel the bike just poured gear-lube. The old seal was in such bad shape half of it fell out and the other half I was able to pick out with my nail. New one pressed in and bike is almost back together....

I've used the "high mileage touring" tires like the E3 and the Commander2 on past bikes and they never felt THIS different. Again, I have this bike set up kind of weird with the HD rear shock and the thinner front tire so when you add in a stiff-side walled rear tire it REALLY sets the back end up high. I've since switched back to my Tourmaster230 rear that has the same 80 load rating. I get a solid year of riding out of 1 tire so the relatively short service life compared to the touring tires doesn't bother me.

The bike just never seemed planted on the E4, always just a little bit squirrely. I typically run "softer" Shinko 777 or 230 tires and will get 8-10k per $80 tire. I figured I'd splurge and buy a good tire this time. I've put 5k on it and it still feels like a brand new tire I'm trying to break in. I have a Hagon HD shock and a Stratoliner 130-18 front wheel, so my experiences on how my bike handle are a bit different than people with relatively stock bikes.

Bike is a '99 with 78k miles, it started showing up last year when I installed a new tire and much worse this year after another tire change (That Dunlop E4 is the worst feeling tire I've ever ridden on). Everything else feels good and sturdy on the final drive, no play in the hub or the wheel bearings. I did have the whole back end off 25k miles ago to grease and torque the swing arm. If the differential were misaligned it should have shown up closer to that service than now. The bike is up and taken apart, new seal is on order...if something odd creeps up I'll make sure to post it up here.

@RedRider Thank you thank you, I did pull my rear wheel off and inspect. I must have over-tightened the axle last time and put a nice wear groove in that seal.