BratmanXj

4xy-2416b-00-00 left side 4xy-2417b-00-00 right side My usual supply house says $104.99 MSRP and $67.80 Cost...Ouch!

I'm not the only one who went from a Concours to Venture! I miss the handleing but the wife likes to seat and storage. Agreed with Puc on this one. Bike wobbled and weaved when I bought it last year with 50k on the clock. 1st order of business was a new Hagon rear shock as the Yami part was on its way out (as typical with these bikes). From there I pulled the whole back end and greased/torqued the swing arm bearings. I'm a big guy, I ride aggressive, and like a firm ride so I put 15w in the front forks. Pretty simple job. Pull the tire/axle and use a LONG 6mm allen to remove the bolt from the bottom of the fork. Drain oil, replace bolt and refill by pull the schrader valve at the top of the forks.

my '99 came with that fender handle. I looked at my HD ridding buddy and said "I hope its not like your bike and I need that tow-point"

How new are the tires? My last bike (Kawasaki Concours) developed a wobble 3,000 miles into the tire life. Had them rebalanced and it went away.

Bought my bone stock but extremely clean '99 RSV with 50k miles last July for $3,300 in the greater Chicago area. I have seen the same RSV & RSTD listed on Craigslist for over a year asking $6-8,000. Just a little knowledge from what I've seen and been researching. I know I STOLE my bike for that price.

I'm looking for something different for bars since my right wrist cramps due to the awkward kink reaching the stock bars. You're one of the few who have something other than the flanders bar. Do you know what make/model bars you have? Either your current WIDE or previous TALL bars.

The forks are OK at 0psi, the pressure affects spring pre-load. IF you do have a leak you stand the chance to pump oil from your forks. 1 other thing I remembered since my 1st post. When I bought my RSV last year I did a fork oil change by removing an allen head bolt at the bottom of the fork leg, drained the fork and refilled through the schrader valve. I think it took a long-shank 6mm allen to tighten up that bottom bolt, and you would have to remove the front axle to access.

Check the simple things first...Are the schrader valves at the top of the forks tight? Even replace the valve core with some inexpensive ones from the autoparts store.

Hmmm, wonder how many Yami's I can stock pile in my garage?

http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_119&products_id=8&zenid=djst90qeu7fevnna7v3lkije33 I've been looking at these replacement master-reservoir covers with ram ball mounts but keep choking at spending $80 shipping to outfit both side of the handlebars. Alwrmcusn, do you know the part # for the "over" clutch cover mount that you have? http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/bmz_cache/4/45235aa7c31e3bf43bebc470af89c1e8.image.316x237.JPG

I had it on my calendar...until my sister decided to volunteer my garage for a "build-day" on some carnival games for our upcoming St. Baldricks fundraiser.

Most the of Star big-twins have a jack-shaft to take the trans output on the right to belt drive on the left. These are the notorious failure points where the spines blow out on the belt pulley side. Common to swap a different tooth belt pulley, aftermarket to more acceleration or machine a Road Star pulley down for more "highway" I did the Highway-mod on an RS Warrior a few years back when a buddy blew the splines...I know own the bike. With 1700cc the bike isn't lacking for acceleration and your down 400rpm at 70mph.

It's not like we ride the Great American Blender... I also run a Nuvi 765t. Is has gone through 3 bikes, multiple downpours, a 65mph slide, and over 15,000 miles. I have had to replace a $10 powered cradle and 1 fuse in the power cable. On my old HD Road King I had a windshield mounted radio and a custom ram ball mount right in front of me. On the Kawasaki Concours a ram base on the left glove box/inner fairing. On the RS Venture I have a handlebar mounted Ram ball and 3" arm. This puts it just left of the tape deck.

As with any project with my friends...Beer & Burgers/Pizza/Junk Food is the great gathering tool. Once mixed & poured a patio on 6:00am on a Sunday morning because the GF cooked breakfast for us with Jamison Syrup for the waffles.

But was the photo taken over on your side of the world?

Fair Oaks is I65 & R14, just went past it this weekend and they are adding on. Its a working farm-museum really kinda interesting. As far as getting into the City, once you get north of Rt 30 on I65 you'll be in heavy traffic. I80 is semis galore and they are not as considerate as they use to be. Expect to be driving AT LEAST 20 mph over the speed limit just to keep up with traffic. Don't worry about the "sketchy" neighborhoods on the Dan Ryan Expressway (I94 on the south side of the city) but try to time your drive to avoid the morning (6:00am - 9:00am) or afternoon (3:00pm-6:00om) traffic. As for things to do, the Major museums are always interesting, but expect at least 1/2 a day at each: Science & Industry, Field (natural history), Shedd Aquarium, Adler Planetarium, and the Art Institute. Navy Pier isn't what is use to be, but there is a children's museum there and the Farris wheel. Lincoln Park Zoo and the Botanical House in Lincoln Park are both free, lots of great restaurants along Clark street within walking distance of the zoo. ed debevic's burger joint, Rainforest Cafe, Hard Rock Chicago, House of Blues are all on the near NW corner of Downtown. Shopping along Michigan Ave north of the river (Magnificent Mile), Water Tower Place & American Girl are at the north end of the shopping strip. Not sure if the river boat architectural tours are running yet due to the cold and ice.

If your a taller guy I'd look into the Leveling Links, it raises the back end 1" which reduces the rake & trail of the front end geometry, thus the steering feels a bit "quicker" http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4858&title=butler-built-leveling-links&cat=7

Another good program to run is SuperAntiSpyware; it will sweep your system for any tracking data and malicious software.

But unfortunately you OVERESTIMATE the abilities of the general public. In the greater Chicago area having the ability to turn on red usually result the that driver feeling as though they have the right of way.

IF you put a "load" on each leg of the system, yes it does defeat most of the savings of LEDs. If you swap for a digital flasher relay or put the "load" (1 resistor) on the existing flasher relay it is beneficial to run LEDs

Got sidetracked at the office...

Ebr1190, easy to spot anything Buell with those front brake rotors.

Or you go below the engine guard and touch down on the pavement if you hustle around a corner to hard. Its a trade off. I've been eying some "rice-rocket" LED fog lamps at Advance Auto Parts, they are about 1.5" tall by 5" long. Once we warm up I'm going to look into mounting them in-line with (directly in front off) the lower bar of the engine guards.

-10 temperatures and 10-20 mph winds in Chicago. Spend the weekend in Wisconsin helping a friend move, he really didn't think that one through! Even on a battery tender in an insulated (but un-heated) garage the battery froze on the bike. Its to cold to even go out and fix the broken spring on the snow blower.

The wife's short, I kept the cut-offs from her chaps to use as a "packaging" band