BratmanXj

Crisis averted! Found the switch top burred in one of my gloves in the saddle bag after cleaning out the bike last night

Had some electrical gremlins, pulled the right and left controls apart to clean all the contacts and I've misplaced the red plastic kill switch cap. It does not appear as a separate part in the diagrams I'm finding. Before I spend $50 on an eBay used control... I'm asking for help here. Does anyone know if this part is available separately? Does anyone have an old trashed control that they'd be willing to part with?

Just to clarify... You looked at the "direction of travel" arrow on the tire and it is mounted backwards for the rear tire? Yes, definitely have it fixed. IF you are comparing the front tire tread pattern to the rear tire tread pattern, those would be reverse of each other. The front tire would have the force working against it when braking vs the rear tire having the forces propelling it when accelerating, hence "reversed" construction from a front tire vs rear tire.

I'm not up on the latest Harley touring bike setups and IF they still have a hook-up for headsets.... But I went with Sena 20s because you can get an extra helmet setup that includes a port to plug into the Venture/GW factory radio & intercom. When the kid and I are on the Venture we use the bike's wired radio & intercom, when we're on the Ural we use the bluetooth. Sena Helmet Clamp for CB/Audio of Honda Goldwing (20S, 20S EVO, 30K)

This is what happens when you own a bike for 10+ yrs.... you start forgetting what changes you've made!

I did add a similar LED Run-Brake-Turn bar under the tour pack and used one of Steve's break-out harnesses that made for an absolutely painless installation. Unclip the main light harness under the seat and put in the new harness provided by Steve, then tag the new light into the breakout wires with the schematics provided! I also used his ignition relay harness last year when my ignition plug melted. On a side note, Happy I picked up one of those Custom Dynamics plug-n-play LED taillight boards back when they were available!

I hang out with a Kawasaki Owners Group up here in Northern Indiana. Been on many Nomads and really liked them, haven't personally been on a Voyager. The fixed fairing on the chassis has always been a plus in my book and I've debated replacing the Venture with a Voyager in the future.

Good thing you didn't have to come any further west than St. Joe County. The next county west (LaPorte) got hammered with 3' of lake affect snow Friday morning to Saturday morning. It was supposed to hit Lake & Porter Co. but the winds shifted to keep it further east.

Just got over a few days of -10 plus wind chill in Chicagoland, now they're calling for some serious Lake Affect snow across northern Indiana (I'm right at the IL / IN boarder just outside of Chicago) with possible weekend accumulations of 12-18". I had my outside frost-proof spigot blow earlier this week and my side-yard is an ice rink!

Baja No-Pinch This is the "hot" item I've been hearing about on the ADV & Ural pages. I'm not sure how well it would work with big touring tires, but for the narrower dirt bike stuff every review I've read is good.

I put those 3/4" round flush fit LED marker lights you see on trailer, yellow on front & sides, red on rear...its pretty well lit up and looks like a small car at night with the headlights on the plow. That wasn't enough and almost got hit a few times cleaning my alley. So I did a similar pole-mounted yellow gyro-light on my JD tractor for the same reason.

Are you looking for just the mufflers, or a full header & muffler? I'm 99% sure I have my OEM mufflers on the shelf in the garage. Send me a Message with your zip code and I'll look into shipping.

Medical friends have called it a worst-case condition of the flu... definitely more than the common cold, but media reports a "sensationalized" version for ratings.

You're not the only one who's had an issue with the "integral" hitch on a full size ford letting go.

If you use a site to find part numbers you can order off Boats.net for ANY yamaha part, not just boating. I found this out by having Yamaha jet skis and a small outboard, tried a Motorcycle part number when placing another order and whalla!

I remember reading your review of the E4 fitments on the Venture as well. I have the 18" front wheel and certain tires don't mix well on top of an aggressive riding styles. My H.D. buddies on Dunlop E4s love them.

I have the 18" Stratoliner front wheel on my RSV.... I didn't realize they FINALLY have a matched tire set for my odd-ball.

My current rear tire is a Dunlop E4 and at 50% tread life it's the worst feeling tire I've used on this bike (obviously that's subjective). The tip-in feels very vague for the initial lean then almost "falls" into the turn, once in the turn it feels less stable and "slippery". I've had very good luck on this bike with Shinko 230 Tourmasters and 777 HD. My riding buddy swears by Commander 2 from 2 Kawasaki Nomads and now and Indian.

Yamaha Air Injection System AIS Removal or Disable XVS 650 This is for the 650, but its basically 1/2 of our engine and the concepts still work. I was able to use 1/2 copper plumbing caps right at the port on the heads by re-using the stainless wadding from the original piping and lightly tapping it on.

Actually any TOURING model Harley Davidson muffler will work (Road King, Road Glide, Tour Glide, Street Glide, Ultra-Limited-Classic batwing bikes). There's simple L-brackets that can be made to mount them and you'll need a 1-3/4" collared clamp. Do a quick search on the forum and you'll find schematics for different brackets or even 3/4" P-clamp mounting options.

I guess that was some of the few parts I didn't keep. Its an emissions control unit that injects a small puff of air into the exhaust pipe to cause a secondary burn of any unused fuel coming out of the engine. I've disabled it on a few bikes during tuning with no adverse mechanical results, but obviously slightly higher emission out the tailpipe .

I gutted the AIS system from my bike all together... I capped the ports on the cylinders with 1/2" copper plumbing caps. I may have that part in my bin O spares, I'll take a look this weekend.

Had the same issue last year on my '99 RSV, barely able to push 11v at idle & 12.5v at 2,000 RPM with all accessories turned off. Ended up putting in a high output stator from Rick's, a bypass relay kit on the key switch that lead me to a slightly deformed (overheated) main power plug going to the ignition switch. No more issues now with charging at idle or on the road.

I do believe that 2nd picture is the air intake for the Air Injection System (emissions)

My '99 started to have the intermittent contact issue last year. I followed the switch repair procedure linked above and polished my contacts with a fine brass brush. I also found a slightly deformed/overheated connector and replaced that as well. Bike is working great again with the switch turning ON 1st try and no longer have the phantom power draw.