BratmanXj

Mine kicks off at the slightest bump in the road or a good stiff cross-wind catches the bike the wrong way. If I hold the levers out with the tip of the finger it isn't affected as much. I guess it would be time to replace the nearly 20 yr old levers and clean/adjust the switches.

Owned a '96 XV750 as my 1st bike. Peppy for its size but like previously mentioned not a great 2-up mount for any type of miles, or if you're a taller fella. I had to put a Mustang seat on mine as the stock seat pushes you forward onto the tank. I'm 6'2 - 240lb and forward controls were a must for my long legs, Mapman brand are lower & forward where Jardine is more forward but higher. Bike was made for over 10 yrs with very little changes (sound familiar?) so parts are readily available both new and used market. Stock ignitions are VERY finicky if you don't have a good battery. They will run but get hard to start and run sluggish like its a carb issue... CHECK THE BATTERY 1ST.

I was going to make that comment but wanted someone to verify. The original photo the LED's appear to have a "hood" to give a vertical cut-off to the light output.

Anytime I've had to do major brake work to any vehicle I've broken down and purchased Speed Bleeders. The check valve is built into the bleeder nipple. Edit: Bike has them front, rear, & clutch... Put RS Warrior "R6 calipers" on the front and a new clutch slave in a few years back.

H4 lamps should be a "fixed" for rotation as there are three tabs and one tab is of a different size.

Had an I/O runabout boat that I did the carpentry and my sister did the vinyl work on years back. An I/O was not suited to the river at my mom's cottage and sold it a few years later for pretty close to what I had into it. Now its pontoon with and outboard...that might need a little loving on the vinyl seats over the next few years. Good luck on the restoration. We deleted all the "cord-piping" on the seats and covers for ease of construction. I don't know if you plan to do the sewing or hiring a shop.

Battery life is why I liked Google Latitude, it had the same permissions & system usage as google maps and didn't require a "second" app the be running. You could set the app to various degrees of tracking; real time, intervals, or respond to someone requesting your location, or notification of request. Granted if you use Google Maps for real time navigation it is a battery hog with both screen time & gps power draw.

I got the same notice of refund, and for now gave up on LED for the headlight. I had an HID I revived for Christmas 2 yrs back sitting in the workshop so that got wired in this weekend while the front end was off for steering head bearings. Sealed LED spots were delivered yesterday from Amazon. Now I'm just waiting on the new tire since my 1yr old front tire had a 1-1/2" gash ACROSS the tread that is leaking.

Google Use to have an app that worked in conjunction with Maps called LATITUDE, where you could add friends and it would track them in google maps. If someone didn't allow real time tracking you could "ping" them and they could respond to the request. I miss that app since all of us use our phones for music and you'd hear an audible ping come in and know someone was looking for you, great option when you're meeting a group and someone was running late. I'll have to look into this Glympse app.

Luckily its been warm enough around Chicago this winter that there were always a few bikes on the road; so far I haven't had to deal with the "winter haze" of watching for motorcycles. With that said, always have to keep an eye out.

http://www.yamahaventure.nl/pdf/ownersmanualxvz13tf.pdf http://www.yamahaventure.nl/pdf/servicemanualxvz13tf.pdf

So...how hard was cutting and gutting the stock reflector?

Chicago forecast called for the same yesterday, a wintry mix with a bit of accumulation. Ended up being rainy in the morning but bright sunny skies by the afternoon...now on to high 60's for the weekend while I have the bike torn down. P.S. I'm still afraid to take the snow thrower off the tractor because you know as soon as I swap it back to summer work its going to let loose on us!

Already on that...between mine and my closest riding buddy there's 6 bikes. Oh wait, that mean's I'm spending even more money

Amazon...but $20 more expensive. There is a V8 model that is 6,000LM/12,000 but 36w for $10 more

Variations on the 40's Ford "Flying Godess" http://www.taillightking.com/Hood_Ornaments.htm

Where's the Poop Emoji! That you for pointing that out as I had been looking at an HB4, not an H4!

So $52 gets me 2 H4 LED lights... even better deal!

Hmmm... conflicting information on the eBay listing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/132064359512?var=431419956768 The "Item Description" section says: dc 12v-24v 30w a piece 6000k-6500k output 8000 LM total 4000 LM low + 4000 LM high Where as further down in the body of the listing is says "Motorcycle:" 5500k - 6500k 20w output 2200 LM

Passive Aggressive hints...he makes his living on building some good HD motors, but will be the 1st to admit if you want a bike to hop on and ride you'd better look elsewhere. He has no problem with my Venture or some of the other odds and ends I've made him machine for various Yami's over the years.

Are these really only a 20W power draw? I know the 1st incarnations of "pop-in" LED lights were a higher draw than a comparable 35w HID at equal light output. If these really are that good I might have to ditch my HID I have sitting here and put an LED in.

So I'm a bit spoiled when I need machine work. The neighbor where I grew up runs a Harley engine shop out of his house; so my son goes to my mother's on Mondays and I send him with the lower triple. 8:00 AM I get a text from my mother that the new bearing is already pressed on the stem.

Thank you for that information, that is what I wanted to verify. I figured the rest of the neck was "non-interference" but didn't want to goober something up

Thanks

I'm finally putting spot lamps on my RSV and the Drag Specialties buckets I have are proving to be a problem. I was going to order Yamaha lamps but need clarification on what models are what. STR-4NK35-17-01 Sealed beam PAR36 lights STR-4NK35-17-01 Glass lens and H3 bulb STR-4WM35-50-EA Composite lens and H3 bulb I was probably going to swap out for an LED light/lens and wanted to know if the actual buckets are any different between these three? Or if you can recommend a cost effective option as I already have the bar.