BratmanXj

After I changed my slave I was having issues getting the system to purge all the air. I tied the clutch lever down and let sit overnight, enough air worked its way out to finally start pressure bleeding.

I'll explain the installation.... I put a 10awg HOT "Home Run" from the battery up the spine and into the fairing. Fused & Relayed constant-hot from the HID tapped into "home run" 10 sec delay relay tapped into "home run", triggered from Aux (cigarette) plug, feeding switched hot for HID ballast HID plugged into factory headlight socket I will post a picture of the installation instructions when I get home from work. I made sure to check everything as it went back together, but nothing was pinched the 1st time this happened while the fairing was still open.

I don't have the information off hand but it was based on your recommendation somewhere else on the model HID. This started THE DAY I installed the HID. Wired everything up, came out the next day to a dead battery. I pulled the fuse on constant-hot for the HID while the fairing was apart (finishing up the steering head bearing install) and the bike sat for 2 weeks. Put the fuse back in finished assembly, bike sat on tender for 2 days then took a couple of rides and all was fine. Bike now that a week without the tender (or riding) and I have a flat battery. When I get a chance I'm going to pull the fairing and see what the current draw is across the fuse on the HID kit. Edit: Bike sat most of the winter off of the tender with no issues starting up.

I've had an HID kit in my "parts" drawer for a year now and finally installed it over the winter with new spot lamps and other on the front end. Now the bike goes dead if it sits for more than a day...2nd time I left it off the battery tender that this has happened. HID was installed per the instructions with an always hot going to the relay included in the harnes and a switched (off my 10-sec delay relay) hot going to the ballast, then the pigtails into the factory headlight socket. Anyone ever have an issue with an HID headlight shorting out and always pulling voltage?

So they are following OCC's example with the Dixie Chopper?

I made the crack to my buddy who has a Dodge SRT8 that requires Mobile-1 eurospec 0w-40.... "Gonna switch to that stuff, it will save you a fortune on oil changes" He didn't speak, but I got the idea with the hand gestures of how he felt. I default to my usual Oil Debate response... It doesn't mater much what oil, more that it has oil. I think they are setting themselves up for complaints with older cars that leak who think they can go a whole year with no maintenance.

But that is going against the American ideology by wanting a Duc type engine, even the 1300cc V4 is an oddball in the American touring market. The HD-Indian-Victory-Vulcan all have big torquey Vtwins, the Goldwing V6 has low end torque. People who want high-reving HP buy a sport-tourer like the FJR, not a full dresser. Any of my riding buddies I put on my Venture have no idea how I set the pace that I do, they shift at 3k rpm and lug down the motor because that's how "every other bike" does it. While I do like the nature of the V4 in our bikes we here are in the minority of the market and I can't see Yamaha chasing a small section of the market for us die-hards.

My local Ace Hardware caries a selection of Chrome bolts. They know when I walk in to go unlock those bins since I'm always messing with the bike.

Agreed...I usually am around 5-6 psi.

1. I just washed the bike this morning and agree, you can't see the sidewall of the rear tire nor is it an easy task to clean that rear wheel. 2. I'm currently running a 165/80 Nexan rear tire that IS blackwall on both sides.

And that is why I fought with the screw for a while before I finally grabbed my buddies big tap-die set to measure it out, threads keep jamming when trying to insert by hand. It wasn't until I measured it did I notice is was SAE and intimidate red flag! The inner fairing has a tab with a clip-nut that is easily replaceable next time I'm inside so no need to go the route of a heli-coil.

Having bought the bike used and never opening up the fairing till now I had did not notice the machine screw difference until looking at the pictures of the procedure found on this website.

I re-tapped the hole for the 1/4-20 as the original 1.5mm threads were to goobered up to salvage. The screw goes into a clip-nut and if I'm ever back inside the fairing I'll get a new nut & bolt but for now it is secure. There's only so much torque you can put on plastic parts so I'm not really concerned, and every other screw holding the fairing together is into plastic.

After fighting with this bolt for a day I grabbed my buddies tap & die set. The machine screw is a 1/4-20! I guess the previous owner wedged a different screw in place of a missing factory screw?

Reducing the exhaust restriction increases the volume, the carb adjusts fuel for air volume (otherwise you'd need a different jet at 3,500 rpm vs 6,000 rpm). What a carb does not know is the density (or mass) of air coming into the system that varies with elevation changes. This is why modern cars have gone to Fuel Injection as it compensates via the Mass Air Sensor. Aftermarket exhausts change the volume of air through the engine but does not change the mass of the air through the engine. Removing a restriction on the intake side before the carburetor can increase the mass of the air going through the engine and the carburetor will need to be rejetted. Edit: Granted carberation and jetting is a compromise across the engine speeds...but most anyones bike here is pretty well jetted from the factory where as (previously stated) a set of stock HD or even SE pipes would not throw us out of range.

I did not change anything in the carbs since I only changed the exhaust. If I did substantial intake mods (air in = air out) then a re-jet may have been necessary but an exhaust alone would not substantially affect CV carbs.

While I agree in 99% of the situations, when going rogue and modifying something warranties are usually out the window.

I went to a HD swap meet and got pipes that were factory installed on '06-'08 Screaming Eagle touring bikes, I'm pretty sure they are the SE Catalog 98 db touring mufflers. They have a rearward slash cut that follow the line of the saddlebags nicely, have a burble at idle while also a very reasonable sound at 45-65 mph. The get a little bit of drone at 80mph but for $30 I can't complain.

With the last bike I had Scala bluetooth headsets but again didn't like the speakers and ended up re-wiring them with a 3.5mm plug and usually ran with reasonably inexpensive ear-buds. You might want to rewire with a plug vs hard-wired for long term possibilities to swap different speakers. I do agree with you that J&M is very proud of their offerings. Like anything when you market a specific segment (motorcycle) you charge a premium where as general mass-market products are usually equivalent at much better prices. How many people have upgraded their fairing speakers with marine grade vs buying motorcycle grade...

Ride rain or shine... Did the Chicago Toys for Tots run in December in a driving snow storm! Not worried about the rust streak. Late last year I did smell a whiff of coolant now and again; as stated I have new rubber plugs and if I see something I'll get right on fixing it.

Already have spare coolant "freeze plugs" in my spare parts drawer, but those are the lower plugs on the cylinder jugs, my photo shows a line of rust coming from a weep hole in the heads. I just wanted to verify it was only a weep hole and not connected to any functional part of the engine.

Mine feels like it wants to cross-thread. I might need to chase the threads on the clip-nut.

Few questions on trying to finish up my "winter that turned into spring" modifications. 1. I was able to pick up the RS Tour Deluxe mount for free and my understanding was they were identical to the RSV but did not have the deflector mounts. The bar came with SlowRollWV extender, and to me it looks like it could possibly come in contact with the front fender on a big-bump. Anyone ever had an issue with such? Looking at mine compared to this link ( http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?105281-light-bar-extender&highlight ) and it doesn't look much different, but in person it looks off. I remember people putting the gremlin bells on their lower camp and it denting the fenders. 2. The bolt for the fairing under the headlight is giving me problems. Went back into the instructions and it shows an Allen head for that screw, but the only extra bolt i have is Philips and it doesn't want to thread in. Do I need to hunt down a missing bolt in my workshop or am I just a duffus who can't put a screw back in? 3. Under the engine "cover" is this just a weep hole to drain water from the spark plug valley?

So I finally got around to installing my HID that had been sitting in a drawer for 2 years and guess what, it has an internal short and drained my battery. LED arrived yesterday. Since I already have a dedicated power feed from the battery to the fairing to power the HID and Spots I guess I'll make a jumper to use the factory socket to trigger a direct feed to the LED; I did the same thing years ago on my old bike running an 80/100 halogen so the battery always got 12v.

Yes, I do clean & grease everything in the spring "wake-up" but I purchased the bike well used at 14 yrs old and 50k miles. I haven't traveled as much since I purchased the bike (dang adult responsibilities holding me back ) so I don't use the cruise often so it hasn't been a top priority to fix the issue.