BratmanXj

Not that I've found for the 2nd Gen

As speed the bike doesn't feel loose, just heavy but there's nothing we're gonna do about the size of this bike. When sitting at a stop light and you give the handlebars a good tug back and forth you'll feel the front end give 2-3 more oscillations before coming to rest. I think CowPuc 's comment about fork springs might give some relief, but most touring bikes have gone up to larger fork tubes for more rigidity and I think its just the nature of the bike.

I have the same year and the front end "flex" is something I've always felt in this bike since I purchased it. I've rebuilt the front end and did steering head bearings and it has made the controls smoother but the flex is still there. I did go from the stock 150/80-16 front wheel to a Stratoliner 130/90-18" wheel and tire and that lessened the "wobble" when you shake the handlebars but its still there. To the best of my knowledge no one makes a fork brace for these bikes but I feel that there should be one to tie the forks together and give some torsional rigidity.

Sorry, ended up storing the wheel then using it for my new tire last fall.

When I searched for mine about 2 years ago I had the same issue. The cheaper one is typically the Tour Deluxe mount that has an extra mount into the headlight bucket and does not have the mounts for the deflector wings.

In gear with clutch pulled it will start. Side stand switch over-rides all other safety interlocks when in gear.

My guess... Research the spring rates between the RSV & RSTD; the fairing handing on the front end may require heavier springs for the RSV. IF you were going to rebuild the forks anyways it might be as easy as swapping in some aftermarket heavier springs to freshen up the handling.

At the southern tip of Lake Michigan right on the IL/IN boarder and we've gone through a solid 3 seasons in 48 hrs. Saturday in the yard all day in a T-shirt and Jeans spreading dirt, fertilizer and grass seed. Spend Sunday cleaning ice and snow off the house, cars and driveway. It was sleeting with so much wind that the front door and windows of the house iced over. And now its 40deg and rising with bright blue skies and sunny.

You found a set of leads for your DVOM that fit into a fuse socket? Any idea where you picked those up from Yup, I have the service manuals and wiring diagrams, I've been chasing this draw on and off for the last year. It drains the battery in about 4 days if I don't put it on a tender. I thought I found it on the "Back Up" fuse as shows in the 1st post photos, but it comes and goes intermittently. SO FRUSTRATING!

Somewhere I found 50mv for memory functions on the Radio, CB & dash clock/odo, so I'm almost 3x the power draw.

I agree, it doesn't make sense to only work with the key on. After I cleaned the contacts and such I got so worried that I some how created another problem, however odd it would be but I guess the RSV is wired differently.

Slowly chugging away on this issue but still haven't resolved it. I've cleaned every connection in the fairing and down the back-bone of the bike with no resolution to the power draw. I've heard that the rectifier can go bad and draw current and I believe there is an "upgrade" for our bikes to the later model bikes rectifier but I'm not finding anything on this forums search. I did find an article on V4 Muscle about the V-Max and Shindingen SH650A-12 or SH640E-11 rectifiers. I'm going to do some more checking this week and see if the draw goes away with the rectifier unplugged. I did fix the hazard issue. Can someone please verify that they only work with the ignition ON? Also, fixed the no-start issues, that was a greasy/dirty kickstand switch.

IL/IN boarder and Launching Pad isn't far from Abraham Lincoln Cemetery in Elwood where I have family buried. If I'm around that weekend I'd definitely be interested in meeting some of you guys on this forum

As a rider I'm sure everyone here make the extra effort to be aware of other vehicles on the road. With that, I've almost done the same thing and pulled out in front of a motorcycle who was stunting at night on a public street. Luck for him I had just opened the window of the car and heard something and stopped before I pulled out of the driveway onto the street. Between the street lights and his headlight aiming up you couldn't tell there was a vehicle coming down the street.

I'm just over the Indiana boarder from Chicago and my mother still lives on the Illinois side. The Pontoon boat and Jet Skis are titled in Illinois since we had clear titles and the registration & renewal fees are MUCH less. Years back I was about to purchase a jet-ski that was part of a boat setup, but didn't have a title for the boat "shell" that had an Hull Identification Number. Put a deposit down with the owner while I worked through the title issues with the state of IL. I would have to bond the original purchase value of the boat and jetski, that were 10yrs old, as they considered it "one boat" in that respect but 2 boats when applying for title. The bond had to be for 3 years and I would have to post legal advertisements to "possibly" clear the missing title, but even that wasn't guaranteed to work with the state. Went back to the seller and said it wouldn't be worth the hassle. My mother purchased a Honda scooter for her cottage that hadn't been on the road for 10+ years and the title was in a different family members name. State of Indiana deemed the title wasn't valid since it was different name on owner vs signer and I would have to apply with a "lost title". The local police did a VIN check and affidavit for $5 and I was back at the BMV that afternoon registering the scooter in my name and was issued a title no problem.

130/90-16 or a 19" wheel? I'd like to know where you got a 19" wheel because I'm running an 18" wheel of a Stratoliner.

The power draw issue started after I pulled the whole front end off the bike to do steering head bearings. I believe I've licked the power draw, now just a matter of fixing the damage I did along the way. The battery has been replaced since this issue started, so I don't believe that's the problem. Hmm, that's a new one on me. I know the memory will continue to draw power but I thought the "hot" for the radio was on the ignition switch.

Kinda what I was doing last night. I cleaned the kickstand switch and connectors, fuse box, cruise, etc in the lower fairings. Pulled the right hand controls and started to clean it, but I'll take OUT the hazard switch tonight and see if there's an issue. The hazards were working when it wouldn't start, so it's a problem I probably created.

Cleaned the kill switch and now she runs.... But I lost the hazard flashers!

So I go out last night and futz with the bike. Ignition switch has been replaced at some point in the past because the tamper-proof screws were replaced with regular screws. Open it up and everything is clean, give it a quick wipe with contact cleaner & dielectric grease and put it back on. I did see some green corrosion in the connectors so gave them a scrub and grease. Now the bike will turn on, but starter wont engage. Dash lights all light up, radio comes on, etc. Oil/coolant light come on when you hit the starter button (in neutral, clutch pulled, kickstand up...) so I think it's a bad contact somewhere in the kill switchs Next steps: 1. Check battery cables 2. Clean Kick Stand Switch 3. Clean Kill Switch 4. Clean Starter button Anything else?

Through a riding buddy who's the Vulcan Owners Group national secretary I've been hanging out with those Jap V-Twin guys. They expect 100k out of the bikes and compare that to HD. I've thrown Puc's multiple 200k adventures at them, then rip mine up to red-line with them full well knowing I'm down 400cc on a bigger bike and they just don't know how these engines have the power and life-span that they do.

I'm a Civil Engineer but originally looked to be a Mechanical Engineer but didn't want to be behind a desk all the time. Also, I'm Dutch so I was to cheap to pay to fix something I could figure out. No one else at my office wants to get their hands dirty where as I spend at least 2 days a week in the garage working on something with an engine in it. I'd rather throw $500 a year in maintenance at my older cars that I can fix myself with basic tools than $500 a month car payment on a depreciating asset.

I've always kept my bikes clean, but full well knowing they are "road" bikes and not show bikes. The last HD I sold was clearly listed as a Good, Clean Daily Rider and I had guys showing up talking me down left and right about they have half the miles & twice the chrome and the bike is a hunk of junk that they couldn't trust with 30k miles on it. I let him ramble, then introduced him to my neighbor who is one of the best known independent HD engine builders in the area who vouched for the condition of my bike. If you can't trust a motorcycle with 30k miles because it's used up, why even come look at it? I started working at a new job 2yrs ago and we're booming and paying good bonuses. Everyone else has bought new vehicles and everyone keeps asking why I still drive my '06 Mercury... "Its only got 155k on it, why do I need a new vehicle?" and I just get strange looks.

That's the one I couldn't find! I was looking at a different tutorial that was not a good. Thank you

Finally getting around to pulling the bike out for spring and about to tackle the ignition switch. I remember reading somewhere about how to remove the switch and service. So I dremel a groove in the two tamper-proof screws holding the barrel down and remove them? Anyone have pictures of the switch opened? I want to get in there with some contact cleaner and wire brush to make sure nothing is "arcing" causing my intermittent power draw, then grease the hell out of it.