BratmanXj

All Balls makes rebuild kits that are about $20 a caliper and include the piston seals & crush washers, but does NOT include the o-ring you speak of. If you own a dremmel tool get brass brushes to clean out the piston seal groves and flush-flush-flush with cleaning solution. If you find a lot of corrosion inside the caliper you check to make sure nothing is pitted and could tear a seal or leak. At worst case I have a set of calipers in my spare parts bin if yours are in bad shape.

Valkyrie trike if you still want "cruiser" looks, but that's only a 1500 vs the 1800 in the newer wings. If you really wanna go bonkers Triumph Rocket with the 2.3L I-3 motor. I spoke to someone a few years bake on why he sold his Wing & HD for a Triumph when those were fully outfitted touring rigs vs a bagger. He pulled a camper behind the bike and it was the only thing that could keep an 85mph clip through the mountains.

Greater Chicagoland area was 88-ish with thick humidity on Monday & Tuesday, today we are a high of 64 and a low of 50 over night.

The entire brake setup from a 1st Gen Road Star Warrior (2003-2006) or 2nd Gen RoadStar 1700cc ('05- ) have the 4 piston calipers WITH the matching 14mm master cylinder. You can use the 4 piston calipers with the stock Venture 5/8" master but you'll have a bit more lever travel. I hated the stock brakes, they had no "feel" and modulation of pressure was very limited. Since the swap it's a 2-finger pull to slow down. I have a few friends with Warriors or Suzuki M109 muscle bikes and rode them regularly so I knew what I wanted out of my brakes. I did put in EBC HH sintered pads for a bit more bite, stock pads on the rear brakes.

Well now there's an interesting one to throw out there. I'm using a K28 on my Ural with a K37 on the spare wheel for when I do some off-road riding with my KLR buddies. As for the Venture I just put a Dunlop E4 on this spring after going dark-side for 2 years. I didn't put the mileage on anymore with 2 bikes to justify a CT. The E4 has a higher load rating than the Michelin C-II and the same dual compound high mileage design. Again, I don't have many miles on the tire for an objective review but its been good so far.

15 min and $9 repair...I'm game! Taking it down to mom's lake house this weekend and will play around with the levers while cruising and verify. Again, the bikes a '99 with 70k miles, I know parts are wearing out and causing these issues.

Completely agree that its just worn out components, just looking to see if anyone has cleaned up the contacts on a 2nd Gen as the instructions indicated for a 1st Gen.

It re-engages just fine...until I hit the next bump and one of the over-ride switches kicks it back off again. Riding a fairly new & level road last night was fine for a few miles, the system works as intended. The bike is a '99 and I'm certain its just wear and tear that needs to be addressed.

1st time out on the Venture in 4 weeks, I've been having to much fun with the kid in the Ural sidecar I picked up last year! Cruise control sets and will work fine, but I know I have the bike setup rather stiff for my riding style and the 1st good bump and the cruise will kick off. The usual culprits of clutch and brake switches or worn bushings in the levers. I've searched the forum and came across 2 reference for repairs, but they are both for 1st Gen ventures: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42720-1986-1993-Brake-and-Clutch-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?80754-Cruise-Control&highlight=cruise+control Can anyone verify if the Cleaning procedures are similar for a 2nd Gen? Is there any adjustments that can be made to the pickup-up points of these switches? Thanks

So...what's the scooter?

I ran a Commander II a few years back, went to Shinkos for a while because they had a higher weight rating than the Commander II. Dunlop release the Elite 4 that should have the same long like as the Commander II but the same weight rating as the Shinkos. I'm 1,000 miles into the Dunlop E4 and so far I like it, but no real world longevity report as of yet. Edit: Shinkos & Dunlop E4 - 990 lbs Commander II - 827 lbs

Weekly occurance at my house; check 3 cars & 2 motorcycles for Oil, tires, washer fluid, etc. 30 min max when they are all in the garage anyways.

I remembered seeing them in Europe years ago as the "city" bikes for the police force and larger displacement bikes for the "highway" patrol.

No, 600 or 900cc I-4. The Seca is just a very narrow bike, its a basic continuation of the UJM bike of the 70's Like the Honda CB Nighthawks or Suzuki GS Bandits.

The Seca was/is still sold internationally after it went water-cooled.

They offered $2,250 for my father-in-laws older H.D. Road King but I was able to sell it on the lower end of average pricing ($5,800) locally within 2 weeks. He would have settled for $4k and we sent them comparable listings for the area showing $6-7k listing prices but they were adamant the bike wasn't worth it. They seem to have given you a fair price, and that's where my experience with them ended.

I've been reading about SCMG through Pete Egan for years; I keep saying I'll make it up there for a Crud run and it never works out. Maybe in the fall if I have the sidecar rig back on the road I'll trek up for the weekend and tell the wife to take the car shopping and I'll take the kid riding.

Get the rear end up in the air and refill the gear case with light-weight motor oil or ATF and spin it by hand for a minute or two. Use a coffee filter to strain the oil as you drain it to inspect for any swarf or major chunks. If you find a lot of metal its time to crack it open and investigate. If you get some minor shiny flakes I'd repeat the process a few times, even running it in idle in 1st gear with no load (up in the air) and see if it gets any cleaner.

Not that I've found for the 2nd Gen

As speed the bike doesn't feel loose, just heavy but there's nothing we're gonna do about the size of this bike. When sitting at a stop light and you give the handlebars a good tug back and forth you'll feel the front end give 2-3 more oscillations before coming to rest. I think CowPuc 's comment about fork springs might give some relief, but most touring bikes have gone up to larger fork tubes for more rigidity and I think its just the nature of the bike.

I have the same year and the front end "flex" is something I've always felt in this bike since I purchased it. I've rebuilt the front end and did steering head bearings and it has made the controls smoother but the flex is still there. I did go from the stock 150/80-16 front wheel to a Stratoliner 130/90-18" wheel and tire and that lessened the "wobble" when you shake the handlebars but its still there. To the best of my knowledge no one makes a fork brace for these bikes but I feel that there should be one to tie the forks together and give some torsional rigidity.

Sorry, ended up storing the wheel then using it for my new tire last fall.

When I searched for mine about 2 years ago I had the same issue. The cheaper one is typically the Tour Deluxe mount that has an extra mount into the headlight bucket and does not have the mounts for the deflector wings.

In gear with clutch pulled it will start. Side stand switch over-rides all other safety interlocks when in gear.

My guess... Research the spring rates between the RSV & RSTD; the fairing handing on the front end may require heavier springs for the RSV. IF you were going to rebuild the forks anyways it might be as easy as swapping in some aftermarket heavier springs to freshen up the handling.