cowpuc

Mean while,, back at the ranch... Just a quick note to show non-members or anyone else shyly following this thread how things still operate around the club house here, lop eared varmints helpin lop eared varmints. Been chattin with Sly about moddin my Ruger MK1 to bring about a Picatinny system on it. As shown in pics below that Sly recently sent me of his MK3's receiver, it looks to be as easy as three little holes drilled/tapped = no need to chase down a Gun Smith with a dove tail cutter.. THANK YOU AGAIN JIM FOR THE FOLLOW UP = PERFECT!!

I hear that and I am truly mighty thankful for the offer brother!! Only problem on my end is this +45 mile wide half frozen swimming hole that lies betwix us,,,, you get that oxy/acet mail service/circus cannon hammered out and maybe PRAYERS UP for the 21st @Flyinfool!! YOU ARE GONNA LOVE YOUR NEW TUNER MY BROTHER!!

IMHO, judging from its forks I would say its a MK1 (83/85) as the later MK2 1300cc models had the electrical anti-dives and the one in the pic has hydraulics. Once again, another way of checking (besides though mentioned) would be to look at the intake connections for the sync gauges. If the #2 intake connection nipple is rubber plugged like the other jugs it is probably an actual 83. If it has a vacuum line leading up to the TCI rack (should have a small check valve in it too). Either way though, I highly doubt someone dropped a 1300cc/86 or later motor in it as it would not be missing 2nd if they did. More likely a swapped clutch basket cover of just an emblem replacement..

Took the words right out of my mouth Bossman!!

I'd grab one of these = https://www.ebay.com/itm/130-90-16-Shinko-712-Rear-Tire/332581065971?epid=171119424&hash=item4d6f6054f3:g:76kAAOSwpWBaoubR&frcectupt=true , spoon er on and be riding the back wheel of that scoot faster then you could say "why did I even consider putting a 7 1/2 year old shoe on this sweetheart" Sky!! Them Shinks are AWESOME tires and for the price (with free shipping) is outstanding!!

I have done as Sky suggested numerous times, just remove the line and hit em with air, works great. I have also just used hydraulic pressure and done so successfully, doing so will also drive in some fresh brake fluid in the process. Simply remove the master lid or plug and keep the res filled while working. Remove the,,, wait a second,, sounds like your starting with a replacement caliper? Pull the pads, get a good idea of how thick new pads would be and use that number/measurement to estimate how far to drive the pads out, fill the caliper with brake fluid, disconnect the line from the old caliper (or any master you choose to apply pressure) and attach it to the replacement caliper, do at quick bleed at the banjo connecter and tighten it, watch the master level carefully = keep fluid in it as you move the pistons out with the lever or pedal. Run the pistons out to no more than a new pads width = if you have a piston that sticks while the other piston(s) come freely outward = just hold the pistons with channel locks or c-clamps to keep them from coming out all the way past the pad width and then continue putting hydraulic pressure on the stuck piston. Usually you can now pull the pistons the rest of the way out, if not, work the pistons little by little with hydraulic pressure but do so in small increments,, patience is key.. Air is really nice cause of the less mess but hydraulic pressure has no compressability and of times those pistons really need the extra push of the hydraulics.. Any of that make sense?

now your talking!!!

I have numerous buddies tell me that just hangin out with the likes of me can be such Sly.. Just an FYI to let you know that I understand if you choose to end this association

Ya gotta tie a gremlin bell to your big toe Jack!!

IMHO, oil types and length of time between oil changes can/will directly affect shifting smoothness as well as clutch slippage.

Ooppsss,, double post

Here is something else to possibly consider.. Bike to bike in comparable conditions, value to value, the Wing is worth considerable more on the open market (at least it was when I was in the business) than the Venture. The Wing line has been a longgg standing "cult" bike. If I were doing/looking like you are and are concerned with resale $,, I would DEFINITELY stick with the Honda..

and they do love to rev...

A question of ample low end torque answered =

Ok,, here is my take,,, if I had an old Goldwing in comparable physical cosmetic condition to that of the 83 Venture (not trading a cream puff Wing for a Venture that some lop eared sticker covering wanna be biker varmint had short shifted his way to 250,000 miles on) that Wing would be longgggg gone!! While I do agree that the little 74 inch, 1200cc V-4 does love to be revved out (gotta get above 5200 R's for it,s amazing HP to really get started) the bike's torque is totally adequate in lower R's to crawl off road mountain terrain loaded to gills with gear and 2 varmints on board WITH NO SECOND GEAR. And,, it will run circles around the Wings of that era in all conditions and get superior MPG in doing so.. My 1st 1st Gen that I grabbed out of an estate sale (ironically,, it was the gold - here we call them a "Blonde" - one too) lost it's second gear @26k and all my other's had lost it well below 40k. Made2care, be curious to know how many miles on the one you are looking at? After discovering the capabilities of this amazing machine with no 2nd gear and it's absolute rideability by short shifting, I literally hunted for 1st Gens without out it as I my family and I wore out our riders.. I would buy em dirt cheap (few hundred bucks), make em run by combining parts (usually involved a carb bank swap as most of the bikes had set for long periods of time due to the costs involved with getting the tranny repaired = previous owners had no idea what they were missing). I have yet to have a - missing second gear 1st Gen - 1st Gen not roll out past 200K thru short shifting with very little needed = other than dropping in a set of Progressive Springs up front, upgrading the clutch springs so when she comes up on the pipe in top gears while fully loaded the clutch dont slip, tires (LOTS OF REAR TIRES) - brakes - occasional carb diaphram repair and syncing (they LOVE to be synced) = normal stuff.. I have also had to swap out a TCI once (the mount location for the TCI promotes moisture build up). Speaking of that, the 83's were a one year bike on the TCI/vacuum spark advance arrangement. The 84's (which my 1st one was) have a different TCI and pull the signal for the spark advance directly from the intake manifold. If you look closely at the intakes and notice the little rubber plugs that you will remove to hook up the gauges for syncing,, if those plugs are on all the intakes = 83, if the #2 has a vacuum line attached to the nipple where the other intakes have the plug = 84. This is important IMHO because the 83 TCI's seem to be easier to find than the 84's should you need one. I know there was a guy looking for an 84 TCI, having problems finding one and I ended up sending him the one out of my 84 that had been on the shelf for many many years.. I have 4 of them for the 83's, 1 of which I pulled from a junk bike in a scrap yard, and have never had a problem locating the early TCI's BUT,, keep in mind,, that other than my 1st 1st Gen, all my riders to this point (I am wearing out #6 as this time) have been 83's so I got lots of spare bits and pieces built up.. Never had a frame failure but as mentioned, would take a peek at the swingarm to frame connection area for that malady. The 1st Gen MK1's (83/84 - no idea on the 85's) came OEM with a plastic water pump impellar. It liked to disolve. I have replaced all of mine except this last one with the upgraded aluminum impellar. If the fins on the impellar dissolve it will run hot. Oh,, by the way,, these bike normally run about 1 needle width away from the hot zone. They also came right from Mom Yam with stator issues waiting to happen.. Mom Yam forgot to install the orfice in the crank bolt to shoot oil on the stator to cool it and also forgot the splash plate for the oil to bounce against. The stator itself is enimic so it ran hot and desperately needed the cooling. All upgrades parts still available as far as I know.. The brake system is linked rear to front, front left is controled by rear brake pedal. If you go look at it and work the rear brake and notice the brakes stick on, just take the end of 2x4 and smack the calipers to free em BUT remember to smack the front left in the process.. Personally,, I could have dragged my wife and kids all over the States on any brand/model of bike I wanted thru the years but chose to do so on the 1st Gen Ventures because they were the most over looked, clearly the most durable + trust worthy, and CHEAP due to the 2nd gear issue.. If had to redo the 1 million plus miles of amazingly awesome times that we have had out CTFW (chasing the front wheel), the 1st Gen MK1 Venture would be my bike of choice to do it on = BAR NONE! Hope this helps! Any other questions = just ask.. Puc P.S. - almost forgot, :welcome1:

I knew it,,, I knew it!!! That pointer finger is a flat out give away to the ET dna my brother. Remembering back to another great time Jack (C Vid), where you joined in with the group "VentureRider.org ROCKS" at the end of the vid and pointed your pointer to the sky = DEFINITELY a match!!!!

Like a kid looking under the ol Christmas tree,,, got my eyes peeled Sly!!! If Ruger didnt change the diameter of the top of the receiver!! If they didnt,, I will order a rail, scribe a lite line down the center line of the sights, center punch the rail with a transfer punch thru the holes in the rail, drill it, counter sink it and tap it, mount the rail and end up with a little brother MK1 of that gorgeous MK3 of yours!! I was thinkin yours was dove tail milled, I called around yesterday before being crystal on what you had there and got a feel for having my receiver milled by a smith.. 2 MONTHS out was the fastest turn around. Didnt even ask price as that ETA is just wayyy to close to the "shootin Batchlor party" I am tossing here for my soon to be Son-In-Law (he LOVES to shoot but is stuck in CommieFornia = to quote my good friend @Condor) this spring. Gonna need the MK1 for that - BIG TIME. Got 5000 rds of Aguilla 40 grain coming too so the MK1 HAS to be here. The drillin and tappin (if this works as planned) I can do right here at home.. Thanks my lop eared shootin iron moddin varmint brother!

Well put down that set of White Washer Nozzles ya got in your hand and grab the camera brother

R1 ,,,never knew Remington made an R1 .. OH YEA,, GOTTA LOVE THEM 1911'S!!! Sooo much fun!! Aint nuthin touches the heart of historic shooters like a good old 45acp 1911!! Then the fun begins in tricken em out = so many options and soo easy to keep the wallet enemic .. I did not even know Remington made a 1911 till now Sly.. I googled it and WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, come to find out, Remington was making 1911's all the way back to the FIRST World War:scared:.. Wayyyy cool!!

Ahhh, that is interesting! Hey Sly, is the top of the receiver on your MK3 also milled flat to accept the rail from Ruger or is it just drilled and tapped? If it made so the radius of the rail matches the radius of an unmilled surface, could you drop a set Verniers or mics on it and give me the measurement? My MK1 is not bull barreled like your MK3 but I wonder of the actual receiver tops are the same diameter and if so, maybe all I need to do is drill and tap it!!

If I were gonna trike one of these smaller motored V-4's I think I would play around with tossing some gearing at it. My V-Max was lowered geared and probably via the rear end. I would probably take a close look at dropping in a V-Max rear end for the lower gear ratio (if what I am thinking is true). The stock ratio's to torque specs are about right for the weight of the stock bike w/two up and loaded but add in the weight of the trike kit with live axle to 2 wheels and then towing a trailer (if one chooses to do so), I too wonder if that isn't a bit much for stock torque to weight ratio..

Personally I LOVE what the guy did and give em a double dip:thumbsup: ,,, of course,,, if you are the builder and reading this = ya gotta consider the source on that :thumbsup: cause I am farrrrr from anybodies mother on this stuff! I have yet to meet a carburated motor that has any form of decent throttle response when cold,, just nature of the beast IMHO. My experience has been it is VERY difficult to judge performance until she's up to temp. Yep,, the guy DEFINITELY would not pass an xray or pressure test on a power house job site with those welds but I have seen far worse.. Heyy,, he tried and that counts in my book.. Welding advice? Practice until you can SEE the puddle! Once you can develop that basic skill, those welds will become "wedding ring bands". IMHO, sound/rumble is a deceptive thing.. I am with Bongo 100% on the whole put the :mo money:toward the OEM quad carb setup to bring it back to life. Set up like those early engineers at Yamaha did in their RnD to make these 1st Gens run like a scalded cat in the first place is THE way to go IMHO (and Bongo's ).. About the only place in the vid that has me my beat up ol beaner is the young mans comment about doing the single carb setup on a wing and then seeing 170 mph on it .. Anyone who has actually seen 170 mph on two wheels KNOWS that is probably stretching it BUT,, he does not go into what kind back ground he has in frame design and steering geometerys and the like so I spose,, giving him the benefit of the doubt, it is possible that he built up a wing motor and stuck it in a Bonneville streamliner frame.. Of course, if that were the case,,, one would think his weld skills would speak to it

:bighug:right back at cha my friend!!! And THANK YOU for the kind words on my brother, brother!! Him and I fought like cats and dogs when we were little,, he was ALWAYS Dads favorite (my Dad never understood the "gearhead" thing which created all kinds of issues between he and I) so we had that sibling rivalry t:stickpoke::stickpoke:thing happenin 24/7.. Little did we know that, like so many including yourself, we would both be needing those skills for this stuff:doh:. You hang in there and walk as straight up as possible brother.. Try to remember that "straight up" and proud is a thing of the heart more than of the physical.. Works (sometimes) for me!!

Although I know they have all the info they could ever use on us "normal", legal, law abiding, patriotic, constitutionalist citizens anyway but I have never been that appreciative of handing over all the info required to get a CCW here in Michigan,,, wayyy to "infringement" for me.. I hope and pray Michigan follows up with similar action some day.. Probably not soon though cause of who just got in as Guvner here.. Sad.. We did go MAGA back in '16 though so thats a HUGE plus,,, there,, my morning is back :usa::usa::usa::usa: @Freebird,,, when you gonna get us FLAG to wave brother? I know its my tired old eyes but that puny little thing is getting hard to see

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW!! Gorgeous shootin irons there FOR SURE Sly!! Just flat out awesome!!! I LOVE where you went with the MK3!! You mentioned me with this thread gettin the ol fixin and spoilin them shooters motor runnin,, well,, you done returned the favor with this one brother!!! I gotta MK1 that has been a absolute favorite of mine for years,, thousands of rounds of cheap Thunderbolts ran thru it.. It DEFINITELY is a fun, cheap, accurate piece of Ruger history and now,, it IS gonna get a face lift! I REALLY like your add on brother! Seeing that Pictanny strip on top with the (I am assuming?) quick point red dot "scope" aboard just gives me !! I am thinking you had the receiver cut with dove tails and then used a dove tail to pitanny mount on top:178:? LOOKS GREAT! Being a first gen,, my MK1 came with non adjustables (good sites but a pain cause you gotta reaquire aim point every time at the range if your shooting for "Bull" instead of groupin. Yep, your ol shootin buddy is DEFINITELY gonna copy cat cha on that one my friend!!:happy34: I also just grabbed new magazine for mine,, sort of expensive (22 bucks) but the original was getting pretty tired and loose to the point it had feed problems too. If that dont fix it, I will also do like you and send her in and see what they say. I think that mag is one of the things that changed on the "3" Sly, mine has little slider at the base of the grip that you move to release the mag, does your MK3 have a side button release like your other 2 shooters in the pics? Also think Ruger may have done away with that tricky little bolt group carrier release handle on the rear that makes cleaning em tricky? LOVE what you did with it Sly,, JUST AWESOME!! More on the other 2 as soon as my finger reaquire from typin and I eat these Potato Pancakes Tip scorched me for breakfast