cowpuc

Thought I would pass this on, 762x39 @ 19 cents a round. Not sure if its still free ship time but I have bought ammo from these guys and they shipped free if ya bought bulk,, might be worth some lookin before ya head out cookin.. https://www.classicfirearms.com/ammunition/centerfire-rifle-ammo/7.62x39/?dir=asc&order=apr&stock=1 Remember the HUGE SKS gunshow sales back in the 80's/early 90's before Clinton cut em off? I do, I bought/sold and shot the living daylights of the inaccurate things. $80 a pop for a complete Military outfitted w/bayonette and complete Military cleaning kit (WOWZY WOW WOW WOW those were the days)! CASES of ammo were also $65,, of course,, a lop eared western quick draw gun fighter wanna be shooter varmint could also pick up a box of 22lr Blazers for 50 cents or a brick for 5 bucks too = DEFINITELY WOWZY WOW WOW WOW!! Back to the SK = fun shooter to play with but 12" groups were even hard to keep past 100 yards with the confounded things,,, at least with the several I owned. Anyway,, take a look at what the cheap, affordable Chinese SKS prices of yesteryear have come to and remember - these are ON SALE and actually one of the lowest prices for an SKS seen in a longgg time!! Cool shooters but I still really like the more versatile, tunable, better lookin :178:AR Platform:missingtooth: https://www.classicfirearms.com/chinese-sks-rifle-762x39/

I sell mine to the gas station down on the corner who's owner has me just dump it into this steel hole in the ground not to far from where the cars park when their owners are filling them up.. I dont tell him but I also mix my drain oil into my old gas to get rid of it too and it increases the amount of gas I am selling to the gas station owner so it increases my profitability as well as getting rid of both my old gas and oil

Got cha ya Cha,, on the same 2 track brother.. Seeing this spec as shown in the manual,, if I rolled the piston to TDC on the compression stroke on the jug I was working on and could manage to get a 3 thousandth feeler in between the cam and the shim on the intake and a 5 on the exhaust and I had over 50k on the scoot I would know that my bike is getting at least 1 thou of wear per 50k miles. If my goal was to end up at 200k with no burnt valves from valves going tight, see if you can follow my ill fated logic here = 3 thou x 50k = 150k, 150k + 50k (my test start point) = 200k = TAHHH DAHHH Now for another Puc Point (like all Puc Points = totally 100% still in theory state and up for debate), one of the things I have learned thru time in dealing with other bikes valve trains is that generally speaking, its the first tens of thousands of miles on a new engine that shows the highest percentage of lash wear (all wear actually,, in the old days us back yard mechanics called this period of time "break in") and as the engine increases in mileage after being "broke in", the tolerance stacking actually stabilizes significantly.. Put in another way without my totally destroying any form of Algebraic decency that may have survived what I just tried to explain, I would buy .003 intake and .005 exhaust as absolute minimums if my scoot had +50000 miles on it, had never had the valves adjusted priorly and my goal was 200000 miles and the factory manual specs read like this (from my Shop Manual):

Yeah I was wayyy off,, spec is 4 intake and 6 exhaust tightest gap tolerance between the shim and cam on the 1st Gen..

So did you just spin on a new impeller and not remove the entire water pump assembly and rebuild the whole unit the first time Snype? That is kind of a no no unless your really really really fortunate cause that ceramic seal dont take much abuse (like knocking an impellar loose to spin on another one)..

Thinkin ya meant what "shim" to switch to to either open or close the gap between the shim and the cam lobe face?? Still gotta be some kind of a tolerance spec in either thousandths or millimeters there I would think. This would be measured with a feeler gauge stuck between the lowest point of the cam surface (opposite of the lobe face) and the shim face.. I probably am not explaining what I am trying to say here (not unusual),, hold on,, I am gonna go see if I can find my shop manual,, now I am curious ,,,

I like the greasy fingerprint marks inside my shop manuals from endless adventures of days past Snype,, kind of like looking a family photo album for these tired old eyes,, somehow the telling of the story of great times between a geezer and his faithful iron horse... Nuts huh..

BUMMER!! I cry real tears when that happens to me brother:missingtooth:!! Its not cold there is it? Any chance we might be talking about seeping from the drain valve spiderweb hoses up above the oil filter and right under the center of the bottom of the radiator?? I only ask that cause my 1st Gen's all really loved to seep from there when setting in the snow up in the mountains... Always stopped when warmed up but overnight, they could lose a LOT of antifreeze!!

I really have never done one Cha so I have no idea what Yamaha spec is on em but, having done numerous other scoots, I would say anything less than 2 thousandths on the intakes and 3,, maybe 4 thou on the exhausts (that would be .002, .003, .004) and I would call them dangerously tight. IMHO, valves/seats usually wear tight - not loose and it's the runnin tight that leaves the valve open a tad and poof,, burned valve. That said,, probably not be a bad idea to check Yam spec to see how close of guess that is,,, you got a Shop Manual? I can look it up real quick if you need me to, just a short walk downstairs - open a file cabinet - open the book to check with Mom Yam You are welcome on the offer!!

I'm nobody's mother Snype but my experience in doing a water pump repair on these things has been one that usually requires new bearings, seals, shaft and impeller to successfully get er to stop seeping once they start. As I recall (been a while), there is a Ceramic seal on the water pump end of the endeaver that you really want to handle with care. I also use a light grease when installing seals to give a little xtra protection on the shaft from it spinning against the seal lips.. Not sure on the O-Ring unless we are talking an o-ring on a cover?

I like it,, I'm just not sure Tip would be good with riding on top of the trunk,,,, Just yankin your chain Shine = THAT is absolutely AWESOME my friend = DEFINITELY A 1st CLASS JOB IMHO:happy65:!! GORGEOUS SCOOT!!

Cha you got that gasket already? Our White Wash is FINALLY getting down there to the point that I think I can get into my storage barn out back, I am going to make an attempt at locating a part I'll be sending to another friend (thought I forgot about ya didnt ya @bongobobny ) if it survived the winter ok and I think I may have at least one of the brand new OEM top rubber gaskets (its the one with the cam end caps molded into it) that came with Tweeksis that I would gladly send you for your project. Not sure if its front or back (or if it matters - we can check PN's and see if it matters) and I may have both... Let me know if I need to do a little more diggin while I am out there in The Bike Cave

Fowl I cry,, fowl!!! Wow this is REALLY good Fowl Tip cooked for dinner!!!

I tell ya what Corporal Newkirk,, your my kind of lop eared :stirthepot::stirthepot: varmint ... THAT would be a site to behold for sure!! Want know how I would predict it would turn out? Probably not,,, oh well,, I think I will pull my usual and go ahead and step out on the dead limb with no branches in front of me again anyway ,,, you might know the branch I am talking about? Its the one that when it breaks, the lop eared varmint stepping on it when it lets go ends up landing inside the clubs penalty box,, again:missingtooth:... 113inch/1900cc 3rd Gen= ,,,, 80 inch/1300cc 2nd Gen = ,,, teeny little 74 inch/1200cc 1st Gen= I always vote for the underdog!!

Offer stands Maddy, if you change your mind and decide to go for it just give me a quick heads up. The bikes are covered, have occasional parts robbed off em and are going no where that I know of. Our zip here is 49445, if you ever want to do a quick mileage/time to travel guess that should get you a fair estimate.. Your welcome and all the very best on the build no matter what you go!!

Sky is SPOT ON here Cha = there aint NO WAY I was even remotely suggesting that anyone that even remotely cares whether they drop a cylinder, or two,, or three for that matter , on a cross country tour attempt such a thing. GOOD POINT SKY! My Venture adventure since day one has been all about answering the incomplete question of how hard, how far, how much utter abuse can I push one of these $500 scoots - DEFINITELY not something to consider if one really cares. My Venturedom has been all about riding them as far as possible with as little maintenance $$$'s as possible to get as much bang for the initial as possible and, when it croaked, grab another $500 1st Gen with no 2nd gear and keep on CTFW. I made my living spinning wrenches/running a dealership/working on bikes - the very last thing I EVER wanted to due or was willing to do was spend my spare time working on a beat up old Yamaha .. I will say this though Cha,, and I REALLY mean this,, if had er down to stickin in those new gaskets up there to slow down leaks (another pointless endeavor as far as my riding needs on a $500 1st Gen goes = oil is cheap and I have found that after ya get a couple hundred thou on em and have never changed those gaskets = oil changes almost becomes a thing of the past - you just watch the oil warning light as ya throttle up and when the oil light comes on as the oil rocks off the sensor ya stop and refill = there is a point where the leaks equalize to the oil change intervals so ya just keep adding oil = no more oil changes = happens at just over 200k IMHO ) I would DEFINITELY NOT close er up without rolling the cam lobes on each valve away from their shim bucket and at least slipping a feeler gauge under it = in my world,, not doing so would be inviting Murph to my party and I dont ever do that!!!!

YEEEOUCHY OUCH OUCH OUCH = that right there is ugly!! Definitely repairable (anything is) and I am sure you are finding that out by reading Randy's amazing repair story Maddy BUT,, thru all the smoke,, PLEASE remember this,,,,, my offer about a a parts bike with good frame stands and is yours = free of charge!! I have donated freebie parts a couple times to help club members at times of need (and have had others help me MANY times over) and consider it a way of life around here - just an FYI to let you know the offer is for real. All of my parts bikes are 83's (my 1st Venture was a 1984 but that one is longggg gone) and I am positive that one of them would make an awesome frame donor for your build. I am not sure on the later = MK2 1st Gen frames for a donor = never owned one but I do believe that they have a longer drive train assembly in them when compared to an 83,,, I have no clue whether or not that is indicitive of a change in frame design/change in subframe design or just swing arm/driveshaft assemble differences.. It might not be a bad idea to ask here in the Water Hole section (kind of a club hang out) and also over on the clubs Face Book page as I think some of the guru's that use to hang out here now hang out on our Face Book page. Any of that make sense? Hook your trailer back up and head to Michigan!!

RSV vs 1st Gen GRUDGE MATCH = MD, 2019 = ,,, looser buys the Pecan Pie and Vanilla Ice Cream :bikersmilie::checkeredflag::checkeredflag::checkeredflag::checkeredflag: Glad ya got er done brother = almost ride time!!!

I have had really good luck avoiding the hard starting routine thru the years by keeping the interior of the OEM 2 brush Starter clean from brush dust and grime. It all started (pun intended) with another dorky, science experiment of a theory of mine where my pea brain came up with the idea that build up of debris on the armature was causing loss of resistance between the armature segments which resulted in a sluggish starter = in my case, keeping the starter armature cleaned worked amazingly well = good as new!

,,, I forgot about Honda Bongo ,,, a Honda Rune has been at the penacle of my wish list for EVER!! :guitarist 2:

I hear ya 40,, soooo many scoots to choose from and, being only able to ride one at a time,, soooo hard to choose. I passed on a gorgeous 2012 Raider last year - had 3600 miles on it, some pretty cool xtra's and the guy wanted 4 for it.. Not feeling well and already having several scoots sitting around, I passed = and regret it to this day!! Always been a Chop lover and, IMHO - as far as Cookie Cutter OEM Chops = that Raider is numeral uno!! Maggie (my R1) has really spoiled me in the "OHHHH MY GOSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH" performance department and is the PERFECT bucket list scoot for performance obsessed lop eared varmints IMHO.. I have NEVER ridden her when I did not pull back in the driveway still shaken with Adrenaline pump and a HUGE smile on the mug BUT,, seriously,,, being a V-4 addict,, I am still to this day watching for that budget bucket big block V-Max = the 1700, not the 1200 = already done that. I know that's nuts cause Maggie, with her teeny little 1000cc inline 4 will blow past one of those new Maxes like it aint even on the same planet (been there) but,, Maggie aint a new big block V-Max . Strange varmints we bike lovers can be cant we:missingtooth:? I think a good ways above the V-Max though would be another 40's Indian Chief followed closely by another Flat Head HD (like Olivia) from that same era only this time a 74 inch UL.. Having crossed the country several times on long bike hand built Chops my absolute need to build another is somewhat fullfilled,, maybe... I do feel a urning to build another Sporty trike just for play,, decent Sporties are REAL cheap now (got a neighbor with an 08 with 8000 miles on it that offered it to me for 3500,, still considering that one = its the Red scoot in the vid below),, now if I could get my beat up ol worn out geezer body to agree that it's got one more build left in it:missingtooth:.. Good thread 40!!! I bid you all the best in trying to figure out what ya wanna do and how ya wanna get there.. I will say this in closing my friend,, dont under invest in the time ya have brother,, if you come up with something ya just gotta own = save your pennies and buy it cause in a blink,, your riding days will slow down as you slip into a whole new chapter of life in the fast lane

Maddy,, if you find out the frame on your scoot actually does have a break in it and decide you are going to go for it on a repair, I have another option for you. I still have a couple parts bikes out back which I KNOW have solid frames under em, got titles for em too. Come to Michigan and take one home = free of charge! Then, when you pull it down to build a scoot from 2 bikes, you could take the freebie frame and reinforce it BEFORE it fails/to ensure it will never fail = much easier job and, unless you have a frame jig, much less chance of ending up out of alignment in places ya dont want your scoot to be out of alignment in... Personally, I still got money on your scoot not having a busted frame (been riding em since 87 and have yet to have a busted frame BUT - I KNOW it does happen) but the "sag" is related to the suspention issues = thats where my bet is at.. I learned a long time ago not to listen to PO's suggestions as to why the bike I just bought doesnt run,,, starting from scratch with my own diagnosis process usually ended up being the best option for getting that sucker headed down the road again:guitarist 2:! Slow and steady,, solving one problem at a time! I got a hunch, from what I am seeing of the projects you have already completed:yikes:,, you know exactly what I am tryin to say

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:!!!! Unless ya just gotta have the Class system = :sign yeah that::sign yeah that: Personnally,, I have found the old school, easy peasy manual fill to be the most trust worthy, take a hit for me companion a lop eared long distance 1st Gen ridin varmint could ask for!! GOOD SUGGESTION Vick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'd be guessin the "fuses in bag" routine was the PO's answer to the nagging question of what to do about the 1st Gen Failing Fuse Panel Syndrome. What happens is, over time, the ears on the ends of the original fuse holders in the panels loose their boing and their ability to maintain connection on those dorky glass fuses and whammo,, lectrical problems.. Matter of fact,, many of us had scoots with the syndrome so bad that those ears actually broke off = not good thing when half way across the country with an 8 year old on the back seat screamin = how we gonna get home Daddy!! I would get away from the fuse in the bag personally and, at a minimum pick up a few stand alone GM fuse terminals and wire em in independantly (easy fix for on the road repair of the fuse panel). Another very common fix is the GM fuse style panel = works AWESOME and very tidy IMHO..

Puc n Tip,, yes! Can't wait!!