cowpuc

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW:178:,, I know pics can be deceiving and there is nothing like getting to see it IRL BUT brother THAT looks great! I think if I were in your shoes I would request a good clear closeup of the starter button on the right grip. If the scoot is actually a 128000 mile piece the lettering on the starter button will show wear (unless someone went to the extreme of replacing it but that would be highly unlikely IMHO) but yeah,, that looks great.

OUTSTANDING BROTHER!!!:thumbsup::dancefool::clap2: Thinking about this a little more Bongo,,, maybe you should tell those folks that they took so long on the build that you and all your buddies got to old to spin wrenches anymore and see if they will install it for you free of charge :Laugh:

Yep,, look er over good before you seal the deal 40. I see what your talking about concerning the differences in photos.. I would xtra suspicious and double check things like rotor wear and tear = 28k miles they should look in top shape. I know you have been around this stuff for a good while too and are aware of the constant need to add and subtract bling and thing that a LOT of bikers like to do. Its not bad or wrong, its just part of our world.. Consider that when your looking at it and dont forget,, if it is obvious this falls into that group,,, to ask for any extras laying around that they go with the deal = never hurts to inquire!! If its as nice/clean as it looks,, I think a 600 dollar shooter + an 83 with a never accomplished 2nd gear issue repair for a clean later model would be a good deal.. Best wishes as you pursue this puppy! Hope it all works out!

Which,, if you dont mind a drippy, dirty, oil covered engine, can actually work in your favor cause you never have to change oil,,, you just keep adding it to keep the bottom end full and by the time its oil change time you have already swapped in new oil... I use to tell Tweeks that she had the best of care cause she was under Puc's Perverbial Progressive Oil Change - a REAL advantage if ya dont mind parking on cardboard or cleaning up oil spots on the pavement everywhere ya go

Hmm how did we get to the crank? = the top end and the bottom end.. It's probably due to the unlearned circles of gearheads I spent a lifetime running with Patch, since being a young gearhead I/we always referred to the crankcase and all it entails as "The Bottom End" and the components in an internal combustion engine above the crankcase as "The Top End". It sounds like you are referring to The Bottom End of a carb? My untrained ears have never heard carb components described in that fashion before if that is what your saying = hmmmm... Or, maybe you are referring to the closed position of the butterfly in the carb, the part that would be close off the carbs venturi when the carb is in idling status? Due to the butterfly being on a rotational axis I have always heard that described as open, opening, closed or closing as there is no top or bottom in the butterfly's relationship to the venturi area of the carb body that it operates in. As a general rule of thumb in the gearhead world that I resided in, when referring to "choke" or "choking" I/we were costumarily referring to actually restricting airflow at the venturi opening - NOT the area below the main jet emulsion tube . On many carbs that I have dealt with, there would be another butterfly located near the entrance of the carbs venturi that was also on a rotational axis. Unlike the lower butterfly below the venturi that controlled air flow across the emulsion tube to develop air/fuel mixing, this butterfly in a fully closed position would choke off (or restrict air flow above the emulsion tube) the intake and vacuum in the carb venturi would pull raw, unmixed air/fuel, fuel from the carbs bowls thru its circuitry to give the engine necessary over fuel for cold starting. I know this probably sounds crazy but I learned early on that leaving that butterfly closed to long could and often would leave the engine in a "flooded state" from over choking and opening the air box and holding the lower butterfly wide open while cranking the engine over to start it was often the only way I could get one of those over choked, over fueled engines to start. It made no difference whether the engine was with a fresh bore/piston/rings with freshly ground valve and up to maximum compression ratio's = if not operated correctly, the carb's "choke" could and often would perform as described above. Tired, worn engines with compromised compression always seemed to display a different component in my world back in the days when I was spinning wrenches. The absence of compression (and vacuum) often showed up by almost complete loss of fueling (unless there was some form of an enrichner such as an accellerator pump) due to no air movement thru the venturi. As matter of fact, there were actually times when the loss of compression was due to an intake valve that I could actually hear/feel the air movement going backwards thru the carb = a "popping" sound. An exhaust valve having lost integrity would also "pop" but because of its location it was harder to hear. Either way though (piston rings or valve or head gasket), for me in my untrained status, compression loss created a completely different set of apparent issues than those of a faulty fuel system.. Hey Patch,, speaking about schooling me here, did you by any chance teach automotive professionally in years past? If so, did you ever have opinionated knot heads like me in one of your class rooms?

:sign Rock On:

Actually,, truth be known,, all my V-4's - if running close to properly, would/will throttle up just fine with the air box wide open,, have done it many many times. They do tend to high idle because of running leaner without the restriction (choking) of a closed air box = YES but they all throttled up just fine. Matter of fact, I have found that running them with no air box and while I throttle em up is a great way to check the consistency of the slide action and also a good way to see if the diaphram repairs I did are still holding = ripped diaphrams will show up in slow slide action easily viewable with the air box off.. Ahh ohhh,, :duck::duck::duck: flying frying pans are getting numerous

Ok,, back to schooling me here teacher Patch,, lets see, help me out here a little and bear with my students unknowing but wanting to learn brain. Is it your understanding that internal bottom end (crank case = bottom end, is this correct?) below the piston variances in vacuum and pressure changes developed by piston movement are directly effecting the vacuum operation of the CV Carb/intake system located in the top end (area of operation above the piston, including the intake/combustion/exhaust systems?)? Am I on the right track here in keeping up with your class?

Might wanna keep an eye on the often overlooked "Motorcycle Parts" section on your areas Craigslist and also in their "for free" section..

WAYYYYY COOL!! Ya might pop a lid on a carb and check a diaphram to see if looks new just to verify if he dont have receipts but indeed = THAT is awesome!! As far as the Progressives go, same deal, pull a spring a see = if not, drop in a set,, their cheap and as you know,, easy peasy to swap out = personally, I wouldnt wait on that one,, if she's riding on Ink Pen OEM's = fork rebuilds with new seals are in the future IMHO.. Still not to see pics 40.. Would LOVE to see it! By the way,, what's the value on the shooter your swappin?

Good one @KISA,, THANKS FOR POSTING THIS!! What do you think Freebird or Marcarl,, maybe move this to the read only tech library? Looks promising IMHO..

,, didn't even think about that Doug,, almost 2 for 1 !! Now I KNOW your out to empty your ol man's wallet (just like your brother and sisters have been doing for years ).. I'll have one of these,, two of those,, one of these and I just cant walk out the door without that purdy Triumph sitting there staring at me,, poor thing

IMHO, include on the cons: 1. Will need updated Progressive springs in forks if not done. 2. Will need diaphrams in carbs if not done and eventually need float valves. 3. Like you mentioned, if you are a long distance rider going thru multiple rear tires you spoon on yourself = the ease of removing furniture on the 83 to swap tires will be greatly missed. Ya know,, thinking this thru,,, I think your onto a good move 40,, these 83's are getting older by the day and the concerns you share about the frame/2nd gear/stator and even the 83's plastic water pump impellar and electrical stuff are real.. Also considering how much easier it is to find parts for the multi year MK2's if you ever needed em while out CTFW, yeah,, I'd probably do it... And then I would pick up a cheap ratted out 83 with a decent back side set of glass and make a conversion on the MK2 back to the clamshells for ease and speed of tire swaps.. Besides,, I love the looks of the smaller bags but that's just me.. Only real con I see is you'll be riding a slower bike if you go from a MK1 to a MK2 (saw that comin didnt cha? )

EXACTLY RIDER!!! And right above those bars that they will house me behind will be a banner that reads = "Definition of Clint Eastwoods - "Legend In His Own Mind" saying " :big-grin-emoticon: If I ever find that Sherman Tank buried in the dunes of our State Park with my metal detector I have been listening for, jam filled jars on cars chasing down a geezer with a shotgun will be the least of the neighborhoods concerns

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, BEAUTIFUL OHH SWEET SON OF MINE = JUST FLAT OUT BEAUTIFUL !! And, you know you're ol Dad well,, I did in fact spin some wrench on numerous of those old scoots! Matter of fact, that little "Dirt Squirt" by Hodaka has a HUGE history with your Dad Sonshine! In 71 I helped a high school friend who I Motocrossed with and his Dad in start up a snowmobike/bike shop in Grand Haven Michigan called "Grand Haven Arctic Cat". The Hodaka line (which included the Dirt Squirt was a mainstay of my early wrenching days. They (the Hodaka's) had a particular different "shift drum" design that incorporated a series of ball bearings in leu of shift forks that were of particular interest to me cause they were "different" (you know me champ,, always intrigued by different). Definitely some fond memories chasing Dirt Squirt tranny ball bearings up and down and all around work benches back in the day. Also, those early pre-unit Norton's were another speciality = wayyyy cool and fun scoots to play with:missingtooth:.. You know me well ya lop eared varmint! I gotta ask though,, was there a secret MO to you linking me up with that sight? You trying to bankrupt your old Dad?? For some reason,, that "scoots for dollars" section on the side was an IMMEDIATE draw to these tired ol eyes ... Tip says THANKS A LOT for challenging my Pace Maker Seriously @divey,, THANKS FOR THE LINK = AWESOME STUFF RIGHT THERE!!

Heyyyyy,, wait a minute here,, according to The Code your suppose to take pi,,,,, never mind,, you said it was raining,,,, not all lop eared varmints carry an under water camera with em !! Sounds like ya took a lemon filled day and made yourself some tasty Lemonaide with it Sonshine!! GOOD ON YA!!

Thanks for sending me to post Sly! I took liberty on this batch to enlarge them to see what would happen. The original size pics are over on the pocket carry thread if anyone is interested in comparing the two sizes. I was guessing the last pic to be that of the .410 your building? And WOWZY WOW WOW WOW would I love to run a few rounds thru the derringer.. Now we need a low down on all this! Take it away @Sylvester!!!

Here is a series of pics that Sly sent me to post up for him. I will repost this series over on the other gun thread too as they apply in both areas.. Take it away @Sylvester:

A lean out bog? I just never heard of opening up an air box to create a choking or fatter or heavier fuel/air mixture = that just plays backwards in my untrained gray matter:missingtooth:.. Under normal circumstances, if an engine that I am working on is flooded (another name for being choked out), the first thing I do is remove the air box cover to get it as much air as possible then hold the throttle plates open to add in as much more air as possible into the combustion chamber and then crank er up and let er clean out from being choked out/flooded. I probably been doing that all wrong thru the years but it has worked ok..

Got that much needed testoserone boost!! Best price I could find on a 10 round traditional magazine for my clay bustin AR12 shotgun has been 50 bucks for ever. Been watching these 20 round drum feeds now since their release and 100 bucks has been the cheapest. One of the sellers that on GB offered em up for 82 dollars,, my low ebb on the testosterone needing a boost coupled with my LOVE for Drum Feed = I couldnt resist!!

:icon_lurker:,,, x + 's = ,,

,, wouldnt an open air box cause it to run lean Patch.. It seems like closing or having a plugged airbox (like throwing a rag over the intake) would cause it to choke out = get to much fuel

Not being much of SeaFoam man myself, this is where I always go precluding a complete teardown and rebuild of the carbs and have found some fairly good success with it. Given,, its an original Puc Plan so you might wanna take it with a grain of salt so to speak I would pull the diaphram covers on the carbs, remove the slides, open the drains on the carb bowls, push carb cleaner into each carb with a syringe filled with carb cleaner (spray carb or brake cleaner from any Auto Store = I have used Chem Clean too but you REALLY got to stay on top of that stuff cause it will eat rubber seals if left in the bowls for too long) until the cleaner flows from the metering rod emulsion tubes, shut the drains for a day or so and let em soak. Rehook the syringe, open the drains, pull the cleaner from the bowls one at a time, redo until the cleaner flowed clean back into the syringe, when its clean - refill the bowls with good clean fresh fuel pushed into the bowls with the syringe and pushed in so it too flows a little from the emulsion tubes. Slip the diaphrams/slides back in and hit the starter - no choke - to see if she fires off the fuel in the throats of the carbs. If it does and burns off the fuel, choke it and see if it will stay running. I would do all of this BEFORE rebuilding the carbs in attempt to assess the bikes condition before I put a bunch of time and effort and $ into carb rebuilds = I dont like surprises... Make sense?

like this: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R2.TR2.TRC0.A0.H2.Xshinko+whit.TRS0&_nkw=shinko+777+white+wall&_sacat=0

Maybe check out the Shinko 777 line. I have always had good luck with the Shink 230 Tourmaster and am pretty sure that I remember seeing White Walls in their 777's. IMHO, the WW is secondary to ridabilty covering mulitiple conditions and the Shinks did great by us in all conditions. If I were faced with wanting WW's, I would exhaust the affordable Shink line first..