cowpuc

While not one to buy into the "mother nature" routine of science,, I do gotta admit that I am suspicious that, by design, someone had to have planned ahead for future forest fires.. I discovered this years ago while CTFW (on my HD Lowrider) out to Lake Tahoe to visit my Sister who was out fighting the forest fires that frequent our countries west coast. I was amazed to learn that forest fires can actually be beneficial to some plant life whose very existence depends on them.. Amazing what a person can learn if one just stops to smell the roses occasionally while out CTFW,, or in this case,, smell the smoke

THE Bachelor Party of all Bachelor Parties

Thanks brother, glad you find em enjoyable.. I LOVE your pics too Leo = WOWZY WOW WOW WOW that Shasta area is nothing short of AMAZING IMHO and us bikers do nothing but make it all the betterer IMHO!! on ya my friend,,,,,, on ya!! You do "Weed" up there (no ya bunch of lop eared mind in the gutters varmints,, not THAT kind of weed) Leo?? Tip and I LOVE that mountain town... Just BEAUTIFUL!!

I think if it were mine I would be looking closely at the brake light switch that is activacted by the brake lever itself. I would unplug it, stick an ohm meter on it and check it for continuity thru the switch and also check it to ground as you work the switch. I have had bulbs short out at a broken filment back feeding to ground too but if that were the case, it seems you would be seeing it when using the rear brake too.. Another possibility is if you or a PO swapped on MK2 forks are you are using the electric anti dives that come on that swap? If so, it might be possible your issue has something to do with a short that system.. Also check your battery connections and fuses (known issue) where they lay in the holders if your scoot has the OEM fuse box..

Might try bleeding from the banjo at the master. If that dont work, maybe pull the line from the master, hold your finger over the banjo hole on the master and bleed off your finger there to see if you can get master piston fluid push against your finger (bleed the master) then, once you know the master is properly bled so its pumping against your finger tip, put the line back on and bleed from the banjo.. For the slave, I attach a clear line to the slave bleeder and drape it over the seat so I can see the fluid in it as I bleed. Also, having fluid building into the line keeps air from being drawn back into the slave as the air bubbles flow upwardly in the line.. Once ya get the hang of it its very easy to do..

Exalted Ruler gets my vote:

Specially if a cold front comes thru

I don't know diddle squat about the Royal Stars but :sign yeah that::sign yeah that: Now if we were talkin one of my has been 1st Gens, I would probably start with making sure the scoot is in neutral, flip up the kick stand (got an interlock safety switch there) and hold pressure on the clutch lever so the lever is in the fully engaged position (it has an interlock too) to make sure my scoots safety switches are not what causing the bike to be electrically challenged. Those little switches can be a pain in the neck. I would also suspect air in the hydraulic clutch system as to why the clutch went inoperable. Possibly a loss of fluid from the slave if the master ran dry. It does not take much of an air bubble in the system to produce an unproductive clutch system..

If it were mine I would spend the time to play with belt tension to get the alignment I wanted. Just get the tension to where I liked it (I tend to be one who also likes the belt looser rather than tighter = its a cogged belt = should be fine running on the looser end IMHO). I would then creep the adjustment nut on the side where the belt is running against the pulley back until the belt rolled away from the pulley while free spinning the wheel with the rear end off the ground.. Then bring the belt to center as a final adjustment and button it up. I have also done this on my chain drives, including my R1, thru the years instead of trusting the little marks usually found stamped or molded into the swing arms as those are just "guides" (IMHO) to get me into a reasonable location..

:sign yeah that: or at a minimum, pull the starter apart and clean the dust off of the armature (I have always had good luck with the OEM 2 brush starters if I keep em clean). I think I would also double check the stater and make sure it has been updated and tests good. Also may as well check the water pump - if its an 83 - to see if it has the updated impellar. Could pull the cam covers, do a valve lash check and prelube the journals for start up too and drop in some new gaskets on top.. Make er ready to roll. GOOD point @Prairiehammer!!!

If you change your mind on painting the cases, years ago I hammered out a VERY close combination paint/clear coat application that is/was very close to OEM on Mini-Trail restores (show bikes).. Be glad to look back in shop notes and let you know what I came up with back then if you want to try some testing with the combo of your own.. LOOKING GR8 there Maddy,, JUST AWESOME!! she's gonna be a DANDY!!

Yep,, Honda actually "specked" ATF for fork oil back in the 80's on their ATC's/ATV's.. Went thru gallons of it in fork rebuilds and it worked GREAT! Personally I have found 12.5 weight Belray behind Progressives set at 1" preload and no air to be the perfect setup on my 1st Gens for hauling two up/loaded in both on road and some off roading.. A little bit tight in the dampening for some but I like the way it handles in the twisties and definitely an advantage on off road bumps and bruises...

Interesting applicable tests, this guys testing of seafoam shows results similar to that of my own in working on carbs. For head/valve cleaning thru injection - Hyundia/Kia has some new product that I will be checking out in the future and am curious to see its result. Our Ioniq has an Atkinson engine and I have been using Top Tier fuel (most name brand fuels have that rating) for exactly the reason of keeping carbon build on valves low. I plan on scoping Troopers valve train at 100k and testing the new Hyundia cleaner at that time. By the way, many years ago I posted about purchasing CHEAP Chinese made bore scopes with links to the same. Have been successfully using my 11 dollar unit that I purchased at that time exactly like the one this guy uses in vid #2 = still working awesome!! IMHO, there should be one in every toolbox = the uses are endless!! If you grab one, also IMHO, getting the +10 foot of lead will work in your advantage,, IMHO of course! Here's the test vids of Seafoam, Water and ATF, pretty interesting. Notice the borescope in vid two = WAYYY cool and WAYYY inexpensive!!

OUTSTANDING ROLLER!!:clap2::dancefool: My money's on they will enjoy that fact that cha can't out run em all (see vid) but will be blessed with the endless opportunities to discover neat places to avoid catastrophy and enjoy the moments of advanced adrenalin pump and calm conversations between each other as they bond around the priceless moments of excitement:thumbsup2: But then,, after getting caught in the opportunities that some of those monsters offer sometimes ya get blessed with a beauty beyond compare,,, gotta take the good with the bad I reckon brother (see the following two vids).. Hope those son's of yours are safe and having a GREAT trip with endless adVenture beyond compare!! Prayers Up for the two of em to that end!!

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW :scared:,,,, so thats where you disappeared to when you left home,,, Mom and I always wondered about that Son-Shine:big-grin-emoticon:!! !! AMAZING!!:clap2::clap2::dancefool::thumbsup: Your ol Dad can almost smell the adVenture while sitting here typing this!! OUTSTANDING @divey! And Patch,, I say GO FOR IT!!!!

I used to LOVE skirting huge western storms (talk about awesome fireworks displays!!) when CTFW out there.. Many times we would go thunderstorm hunting just to watch the shows in the distance = WOWZY WOW WOW WOW = there is NOTHING like em!! Now,, after seeing this,, I find some of those memories tainted.. THAT IS HORRIBLE!! Prayers Up for all those involved in the clean up and recovery from that mess!

Good solid machines IMHO Roller.. Never were a high dollar machine in my retail experience but good riders/runners and tough bikes. The "Water Buffalo" (750 triple two stroke) held a solid x5 and up in value on retail for me.. If you get it and it has not been run in a long time (+4 years) I would strongly suggest prelubing the cam journals in it before firing it up so you dont smudge the journals by spinning em dry on start up.. Also make sure it has a good battery for start up as low voltage/weak batteries are the #1 cause of future starter issues.. Make sense?

I made a simple cross over for my dirt bikes that worked great.. All I did was take an air chuck , put a short hose on it with a shrader valve cap on the end, push the cap onto one air valve on a fork and touched the other valve with the air chuck and bingo = instant equalizer.. I know, a simple mind producing a simple contraption that probably shoudnt work but it did for me....

WAYYYYYYY COOL @Condor,,, WAYYYYY COOL!!! This is gonna be REALLY interesting (C PIC)!! THANKS FOR THE COMPLIMENT ON THE ARBOR BROTHER!

YOU DA MAN SKY!! :clap2::dancefool: I have been swappin my own bike tires on both tubed and tubeless shoes since I was a kid and gotta say, if I had to do it all over again, of the three methods shown in the vids below, I would have purchased the Bead Buster that @VanRiver sent me (I think cause he loves me and felt sorry for me) shown in Vid 3 right from the start (if they would have been available back in the 60's and I coulda afforded one.. Just an opinion of course but one formed around many scraped knuckles and sore backs ) as a Christmas present (THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH AGAIN BROTHER!! IT IS AWESOME!! It works on EVERY type of tubeless tire IMAGINABLE!! From trucks to quads = PERFECT!!).. and if your gonna attempt your own balancing,, here is another shot of something I have done successfully for years.. IMHO, its a great skill to have cause this can be done anywhere that you have a place to hang a tire from... All ya need is a tree branch and BINGO,, instant balance stand Also,,, its a REALLY good idea (again, IMHO) to clean the wheel real well when apart but also check the base of the valve stem closely at the rubber seal it sets on.. Worth the xtra effort to not have to do it all over again once ya got er together

A Puc Poem to those who gave it all: My mind was filled with thoughts of you as I placed each flag in my yard. The neighbors watched and nodded in respect of how you had it so hard. Those flags are placed in such a way to remind myself of National Cemetery honor. Though my little flags in that alternating formation dont show such patriotic splender. The brand new "Old Glory" I hung on the garage was made in the "USA". I felt it befitting to honor you by choosing HER to display. Over my door I hung a rope light wrapped in Red, White and Blue. The light behind those Colors of Freedom is shining because of you. No words can say how thankful I am of all you gave and done. So we could live in the land of the free, I am thankful that I am one. THANK YOU! Puc

I can't speak for my neighbors to the North in Canada (and quite frankly wont cause it's none of my business how you folks choose to live) but if that were happening back here in my home country of America I would have to say that IMHO, the ban would have very little to do with people getting killed/injured by gangs/criminals with guns (there are wayyyyyyyyy more people killed due to alcohol abuse and driving under the influence here in the U.S. than deaths involving guns = solve this first and then lets talk about guns hurting people) and more to do with the underlying theme/point presented in this song by Johnny Horton (the tune is about a British attempt at changing our way of life but can be applied directly to Domestic tyranny too,, IMHO).

All IMHO and just that,, opinion here.. All 4 stroke engines have to vent the crankcase. The amount of oil "gases" being caught up in the vented can change for many reasons and HEAT causing vaporization is very common. Having answered the question of what level you are filling the case to has been answered so no since in doubling back on that = as long as your filling on the site glass while the bike is upright and level. Years ago I sold numerous Chinese Scooters and had a couple catastrohpic failures come back due to long distance running at speed without checking oil consumption at each fuel fill = the case held less then 1 quart of oil and, under certain conditions (heat being one) the little 150cc 4 stroke would ventilate/aspirate the oil to the point the bike would burn down. After learning that some of my customers found checking the oil to be to much of an issue, I started experimenting with variety of oils to see if one brand/weight of oil would vaporize less then others and ended up scoring big time.. I am in the middle of putting together a huge wedding right now and dont have time to dig into shop notes from years ago to figure out which oil(s) proved the best results but can tell you that the answer to the issue may very well be found in just switching to a different oil platform. On my 1st Gens I always noticed a HUGE difference in this just by going to 20/50 weight when chasing the desert regions.. I would try this before defaulting to the thought that the engine needs a rebuild.. Hope ya figure it out Puc

Yep,, I am thinking its the angle/tip of the bars/master Vaz.. I used to cut my bleed time down substantially simply by laying the bike over and getting the banjo below lower the master and pulling the lever a couple times = air bubble bleeds back thru the return hole.. Another spot that I have seen cause LOTS of people issue when trying to bleed the rear brakes on the 1st Gen Mk1's is the metering valve on the neck for the same reason.. As you know, your MK2 has a bleeder there but our MK1's do not. The secret to cutting out hours and hours of bleeding on the MK1 is to loosen the connector at the valve (just like loosening the bango at the master and bleeding there = same results cause the metering valve creates a high spot in the system) and bleed the system there.. I am also amazed at how time consuming it can be to gently move the lever in and out to chase out those tiny little air bubbles that can gather in hydraulic fluid as the fluid sloshes around or if someone fills a res to quickly cause airation of the fluid..