cowpuc

I was going to suggest checking the connections under the dash to see if you had something loose going on there causing the light to flicker BUT = that would definitely not cause the bike to not start in neutral... Thinking @videoarizona has you headed in the direction here... Please keep us posted about what you find brother!!

:Bunny::Bunny:

IMHO, being out of balance won't show up till ya get er up to speed. A tire not seated properly or a belt not being formed properly is more likely.. It's hard to tell from the video and without being there Graham but I do think I see some tread/tire movement on the left side.. Being new it should roll smooth as butter IMHO..

OUTSTANDING you lop eared gun lovin varmint!! JUST BEAUTIFUL!!! ,, it always amazed me how those shooters can mulitply,,, worse than rabbits if ya don't keep a weathered eye on em

Just another Puc IMHO's but this has worked for me thru the years,, Remove the front wheel. Lay an old couch cushion on a good solid work bench and lay the wheel on its side on top of it. Take a long punch with a good flat surface ground on its face so the edges of the surface are ground so flat that it is sharp along the perimeter of the edges. Use a punch that will lay at a slight angle (loosely fitting inside the bearing ID's). Slide the punch thru the bearing ID that is facing upward and is on top of the wheel (hub facing upward) and put pressure against the long shim/tube that lies between the bearings (that shim tube is there to capture the bearing inner races as you tighten the axle nut against the fork and will have a slight amount of movement to it sideways as you press against it with the punch). When the punch face meets the inside edge of the bearing race laying at the bottom hub (the one facing downward) you will feel it snag. Once it snags, continue holding the punch at an angle and pressing downward to hold it against the bearing race face and smack it with a beater (old gearhead term for a +2 pound hammer). As the bearing moves outwardly in its hub journal the punch will begin to hold on the edge easier. When this happens move the punch around the edge of the inner race and hit er again. As the bearing moves out of its journal be careful that you are not moving the punch edge outwardly toward the journal = you want to keep the punch edge/face hitting on the ID race of the bearing you are driving out. She'll pop right out. Once that bottom bearing comes free and is laying on the cushion the shim/tube between the two bearings will fall out. Flip the wheel over and knock the other bearing out with the punch by beating on the bearings ID race outwardly. Take one of the two old bearings and grind the OD race surface down so the bearing will fit loosley back into the hubs, now grind the surface of the inner race, where the shim/tube would meet it, down so it cannot contact the surface of the new bearing(s) when you use the old bearing as a driver . Clean up the hub journals with carb cleaner, if there is any visible high spots (DO NOT HIT THOSE JOURNALS WITH YOUR PUNCH but if you accidently do, be sure and clean em up with a little sand paper/emery cloth) clean it up. Take a new bearing and with the wheel back on the cushion, place a new bearing into its mounting journal and press it in a little with your finger. Bump the outer race on its edges with a light hammer to get it started and continuing hitting in a circular way to drive the bearing squarely into the journal of the hub so it starts squarely and is not going sideways. It will go in somewhat hard but if you listen while your tapping you can actually tell by sound that it is moving as you rap on it. Once you get the bearing driven down to the edge of the hub where you are in danger of hitting the hub with the hammer, take the old bearing and place it on top of the new bearing and use the old bearing as a driver to knock the new bearing to the bottom (you can also use the old bearing as a driver before getting near the hub if you are concerned hitting a new bearing surface - either way though MAKE SURE YOU ARE FACING THE INNER RACE THAT HAS HAD MATERIAL REMOVED ON IT TOWARD THE NEW BEARING SO YOU ARE NOT BANGING ON THE ID RACE OF THE NEW BEARING = THIS IS IMPORTANT) of its journal = keep driving it until the new bearing bottoms out in the hub and has that distinct "thud" when you hit it. The bearings/hubs are designed to be mated both on the circumference of the outer race of the bearing AND along the face of the bearings outer race. Flip the wheel over = DROP THE SHIM/TUBE BACK IN!!! = now drive in the new bearing on the other side just like you did the first one.. Other then reinstalling the front wheel,, that should get ya back out CTFW! ** all this is for replacing SEALED bearings = not wheel bearings like a car would have (Timpkens) = those are a whole different animal with a whole different method of removal and install..

Just another Puc IMHO's but this has worked for me thru the years,, Remove the front wheel. Lay an old couch cushion on a good solid work bench and lay the wheel on its side on top of it. Take a long punch with a good flat surface ground on its face so the edges of the surface are ground so flat that it is sharp along the perimeter of the edges. Use a punch that will lay at a slight angle (loosely fitting inside the bearing ID's). Slide the punch thru the bearing ID that is facing upward and is on top of the wheel (hub facing upward) and put pressure against the long shim/tube that lies between the bearings (that shim tube is there to capture the bearing inner races as you tighten the axle nut against the fork and will have a slight amount of movement to it sideways as you press against it with the punch). When the punch face meets the inside edge of the bearing race laying at the bottom hub (the one facing downward) you will feel it snag. Once it snags, continue holding the punch at an angle and pressing downward to hold it against the bearing race face and smack it with a beater (old gearhead term for a +2 pound hammer). As the bearing moves outwardly in its hub journal the punch will begin to hold on the edge easier. When this happens move the punch around the edge of the inner race and hit er again. As the bearing moves out of its journal be careful that you are not moving the punch edge outwardly toward the journal = you want to keep the punch edge/face hitting on the ID race of the bearing you are driving out. She'll pop right out. Once that bottom bearing comes free and is laying on the cushion the shim/tube between the two bearings will fall out. Flip the wheel over and knock the other bearing out with the punch by beating on the bearings ID race outwardly. Take one of the two old bearings and grind the OD race surface down so the bearing will fit loosley back into the hubs, now grind the surface of the inner race, where the shim/tube would meet it, down so it cannot contact the surface of the new bearing(s) when you use the old bearing as a driver . Clean up the hub journals with carb cleaner, if there is any visible high spots (DO NOT HIT THOSE JOURNALS WITH YOUR PUNCH but if you accidently do, be sure and clean em up with a little sand paper/emery cloth) clean it up. Take a new bearing and with the wheel back on the cushion, place a new bearing into its mounting journal and press it in a little with your finger. Bump the outer race on its edges with a light hammer to get it started and continuing hitting in a circular way to drive the bearing squarely into the journal of the hub so it starts squarely and is not going sideways. It will go in somewhat hard but if you listen while your tapping you can actually tell by sound that it is moving as you rap on it. Once you get the bearing driven down to the edge of the hub where you are in danger of hitting the hub with the hammer, take the old bearing and place it on top of the new bearing and use the old bearing as a driver to knock the new bearing to the bottom (you can also use the old bearing as a driver before getting near the hub if you are concerned hitting a new bearing surface - either way though MAKE SURE YOU ARE FACING THE INNER RACE THAT HAS HAD MATERIAL REMOVED ON IT TOWARD THE NEW BEARING SO YOU ARE NOT BANGING ON THE ID RACE OF THE NEW BEARING = THIS IS IMPORTANT) of its journal = keep driving it until the new bearing bottoms out in the hub and has that distinct "thud" when you hit it. The bearings/hubs are designed to be mated both on the circumference of the outer race of the bearing AND along the face of the bearings outer race. Flip the wheel over = DROP THE SHIM/TUBE BACK IN!!! = now drive in the new bearing on the other side just like you did the first one.. Other then reinstalling the front wheel,, that should get ya back out CTFW! ** all this is for replacing SEALED bearings = not wheel bearings like a car would have (Timpkens) = those are a whole different animal with a whole different method of removal and install..

I always carry a couple spare hot dogs in my pocket just in case Sly !!

You KNOW you are really :stirthepot::witch_brew::stickpoke: here dont cha Bay ??? Personally,, I hope Mom Yam see's this .... This is gonna sound NUTS (well,, maybe not to you and a couple other lop eared V-4 lover varmints here in the family) but when ever I walk past one of the new SVTC's sitting on our local dealerships showroom floor (WOWZY are there some GREAT deals to be had now!! Mom Yam is taking serious action for cleaning out the left overs!!) it still SCREAMS at me that Mom Yam was in the process of REALLY turning the touring world upside down and inside out with the new bike before she somehow got side tracked and shuttered off those intakes and filled em with parts n pieces. IMHO, those outer air scoops sure look like air intakes needed to feed a mighty 1700cc V-4 with some xtra input room for radiators to keep er 180 hp engine cool. Even its evil smile SCREAMS = ya better not get in my way .. Truely brother,, I still cant help but think Mom Yam was actually fully aware of what they were abandoning when they dropped the V-4 and left the platform for others to pick up and run with ... I guess you know by now Bay,, you ain't the only one is radically IN LOVE with the mighty V-4! Let er buck!!

EXACTLY and GOOD POINT brother:thumbsup:!! On the 1st Gen there is spacer that sets into the outer wheel bearing seal that the rear brake caliper butts up against that has to be installed correctly so its raised shoulder matches the wheel bearings inner race (raised shoulder facing inwardly), then there is a shim/flat washer that goes between the caliper face that faces outwardly toward the swingarm that you must make sure is in place when you slide the axle in, the raised shoulder of the axle rests against this shim and the shim becomes part of the alignment stack that ultimately gets pressed against the inside face of the rearend when you tighten the axle nut. I am not sure why I didnt video the complete shim stacking in the video below (maybe one of us should reproduce a full and complete version of this as getting those shims/spacers in incorrectly (or not at all) seems to be a stumbling block for many of us = myself included:missingtooth:. While I am not sure if this is exactly the same as on a 2nd Gen (shoulda made a vid like this when I helped @videoarizona swap out a rear tire on his 2nd Gen a while back,, RATSSS,, missed another GOOD opportunity ) I have a hunch that it is.. Graham, take a look at the following vid, start at 14:25 on the time line and watch to the end. Does this look familiar/similar to your application? If so, notice the spacer/shim in the wheel that the caliper rests against? I believe that is the spacer that Don is speaking of (PLEASE correct me if I am wrong here @Freebird). That spacer has a raised shoulder on it that faces inwardly toward the wheel bearing that matches the inner race of the bearing. The flat surface of that spacer faces outwardly and meets/contacts the caliper when it is installed. Make sense?

THANKS BOSS!! YOU DAH MAN!! Keep the faith brother and THANK YOU for all your hard work around here!!

RIDE ON MAMA!!! LET ER BUCK!!!

arrgggggggg!!!

WELL PUT brother = YOU are NO fool!!

ANother thought here Graham,, there is a spacer that goes between the inner bearing race on the wheel bearing located between that race and the rear end that it mates to. Numerous members have found that spacer missing upon install with many of those members ending up having to go back to the tire mounter to retrieve the spacer that fell out of its location when the tire was being mounted and ended up on either the tire machine or on the floor in the shop. Not to confuse matters brother but that little spacer has caused more than one puzzling issue after tire mounting.. Just something else I thought might be a consideration.

THANK YOU for the link brother!! It is ALWAYS a joy to follow along on such adventures! You are probably still in the process of the full body scan at this time my friend. Please keep me/us apprised of its out come. Also KNOW that we are here rooting for nothing but the best and are in constant thought and prayers for your health situation. Your not facing it alone David, we are here for you! Puc

OUCHY OUCH OUCH OUCH brother!! Prayers Up for that youngen and VERY glad to hear he is gonna be ok!!!

Not fun, sorry to read all this stuff you are going thru trying to get your scoot back up to "feeling" good Graham but am thankful you were survived riding the bike to a stop with a flat tire. The outcome of doing so doesn't always end as well! Thankfully you are ok. About the bike, I would: 1. Raise the bike, spin the back tire and watch the alignment line molded in the rubber on the tire to make sure the tire is fully seated on the rim. It is possible you are feeling a tire not seated properly. 2. While spinning the tire I would also watch the center of the tread carefully and look for movement side to side in the tread of the tire. I have purchased new tires (both car and bike) that were not belted properly in construction and had to be replaced with another new tire. 3. If I did not do the balancing myself, I would also look carefully at how much lead was used by the installer to rebalance = to much lead would prove to me that something was up at install. 4. I would double check myself on the axle reassembly. With the bike in the air, I would grab the tire and try to move it side to side looking for any play. I would double check my spacer sequence and probably loosen the axle nut and axle cinch bolt, retorqueing the axle nut and then resetting the cinch bolt after I knew for sure that the axle nut had pulled the bearing stacking shims/washers tight and into place and that there was no side to side movement as a result of me misplacing a shim/washer. 5. With tire cold I would inflate to max load pressure as stated on tire side wall. It is not that uncommon for untrained bike haulers to strap from the grips resulting in bars being folded down during hauling = is this what happended in your case? If so and your bike being a 2nd Gen with "normal" bars on it (perches rubber mounted on the top clamp of the triple tree that clamp down on the bars to hold them in check = I am assuming this as I have never actually had a 2nd Gen apart but have rebuilt/replaced many "normal" such arrangements on both dirt bikes and street bikes thru the years) I would: 1. Double check the perch assemblies on the top clamp to make sure they were not damaged. Any noticable movement between bars and triple tree when "shaking" the bars back and forth with the front wheel supported should be addressed as even a small amount of movement there can result in exactly the type of "feeling" you are experiencing. 2. When readjusting the bars to proper height I would double check the area under the top clamps on the bar surfaces to make sure all is well there and I would make sure when I retightened those clamps that I did so properly so the bars are seated tightly and on center. 3. I would double check the condition of the front tire making sure it was not damaged by what ever ruined the rear tire. 4. While looking at front tire for damage I would also look carefully at its wear factor and replace it if it is showing signs of wear.

Schooled again by the lop eared Wisconsin White Washer inventor varmint!! Didnt have a clue about how/what/where/when reed switchin involved but NOW I at least got a clue (took a peek at this: https://www.explainthatstuff.com/howreedswitcheswork.html = VERY interesting read IMHO!!) = THANKS FOR THE INSPIRATION @Flyinfool !!!

Hi ya Rustic and !! I am sure you have heard the saying that says "if it dont say Sunkist on it, you dont know whats inside? Knowing your new scoot probably dont say Sunkist on it and in an effort to help you discover whats inside,, here are a couple short vids to assist you in finding out.. And to assist you in your effort to find new friends to ride with I highly recommend you join us the annual Maintenance Day that @Freebird is putting on in Oberlin Ohio this coming Saturday if possible.. Guarenteed if you do you will not only find new friends to ride with but will also discover things about your new bike by attending! Here is a link to that upcoming party: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=513&day=2019-6-15&c=1!! Hope to see you there!! and here's a peek at those vids:

1st off,,, THANK YOU Dave for bringing us up to speed on what you are going thru!! I hope you KNOW (and I am assured you do) that you are in my thoughts and prayers in your battle with cancer my friend and brother! Though REALLY tough stuff, I know you are stepping up to the plate with solid determination (my brother Tooch is one tough varmint) to bring the fight to that nasty intruder! A word in the way of encouragement for the battle, something the enemy really does not know how to deal with (IMHO) is a pure commitment to keeping a smile on your face and an element of joy in your heart as much as possible. I am still convinced that ones attitude helps set his altitude. As I am sure you are, I am also saddened to hear that your summer ride plans have been altered due to this health stuff brother, maybe take the time while in the Hospital to over view the pics and video's you have of past years adventures in an effort to bring uplifting to your heart and that enemy.. Also, please keep us updated on your progress so our thoughts and prayers are relevant to your progress brother!! Love you too Dave:bighug:!! 2nd = THANK YOU AGAIN for all the thoughts, prayers and concerns about this thread!! You folks are, beyond words,, my favorite lop eared group of varmints! to all!! Puc ,

GREAT piece of American ingenuity there Corporal Newkirk = on ya brother!!! Personally, I LOVE personalized custom work and that right there is spot on!!! THANK YOU for sharing and staying true to The Code with 's too!!

1. 4 weeks before wedding my brother makes his journey to his new home with the Lord - see obit = https://www.legacy.com/obituaries/name/douglas-barnhard-obituary?pid=192813014 2. Funeral planning for brother. 3. 1 week before wedding my Cousin makes the same journey - see obit = https://www.klaassenfuneralhome.com/notices/Timothy-VanderKooi 4. 5 days before wedding my favorite Uncle of all times (a REALLY great person) joins my brother and cousin at God's throne - see obit - https://obits.mlive.com/obituaries/muskegon/obituary.aspx?n=charles-hackney&pid=193008112 5. 1 day before daughters wedding work butt off setting up for wedding at park in Fruitport and pickup sound equipment in GR. 6. Wedding day = WOWZY WAS IT HUGE!! Massive thunderstorms come thru and attempt to blow down Arbor and both 3 pole big top tents = didnt work!! Son In Law from California LOVED the storms,, said he had never seen anything like em,, was VERY impressed with the HUGE lightening bolt hitting the lake and the loud CLAP of thunder right after being pronounced "Husband and Wife",, PERFECT TIMING = HIS WORDS!! No pics till daughter/son in law approve me to post them! 7. Immedially after wedding ceremony begin tear down. 7. 2 days after wedding on the way home from returning sound system, Tippies mom called to inform me that Tippies favorite Uncle of all times had joined my brother, cousin and uncle at his new home with the Lord - see obit = https://www.legacy.com/obituaries/name/richard-harig-obituary?pid=193046509. 8. 4 days after wedding recent passing of loved ones funerals begin.. 9. 6 days after wedding complete packaging of arbor to ship to daughter and new son back in Cali. 10. 1 week after wedding this lop eared varmint REFUSES to call an end to all the wedding fun and decides continue his stay with Gramp and Gram till tomorrow - see pic..

RATSSSS,, oh well,, may as well give you and your wife the surprise I had for each of you now then = :bighug: Tip said the same thing and here is her's = :bighug: You folks will be missed Ready!!

Get the kids ready for Sunday School, load em in the 82 Starcraft Chevy Conversion Van securely parked in the garage, make sure their all buckled in and the babies in the car seat, climb in, jump out and run back inside and grab the babies diaper bag, climb back in and back the van out,,, but don't forget to push the garage opener button hanging on the visor of the van before you do cause if you don't you can take out the garage door - center pillar between the garage doors and even the brick wall running up the pillar...

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, two brighter smiles there have never been :big-grin-emoticon:!!! Glad to hear you lop eared grinnin varmints finally got together again my brothers!! Wish Tip, Tweeks and I coulda been there for that one!! GREAT PIC VAz:thumbsup:!! THANKS!!