cowpuc
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Everything posted by cowpuc
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Hi Guys.. Just wanted to say THANKS again for ALL the great points on the brake issue!! Anyone reading this should take all the points made to heart. I got a chance to work on the scoot tonight and found the anwser... I am making a new thread - with pics - of what I found just in case someone else has these problems and wants a "quick fix" that may work... 'Puc -
If you want a easy way to find a short, Run a compass along the wire. it will point right to the short. Biker Bob: I have GOT to know more about this BB - do you attach an ohm meter and run a low voltage current thru the wires to get the compass to work? COncerning the problem this thread was started over: I am not real fluent with the 89's but on the 83/84's drawing to much of an amp load did infact shorten the lives of many stators. Yamaha had a recall on those stators back then and it involved placing a small "bleed" holed bolt in the end of the crank and placing a splatter plate on the backside of the stator cover to spray oil over the stator - this worked great UNLESS you were prone to run lots of extra lights - then the stators would still get hot and burn down.. If I had your bike, besides doing a Regulator check, I would do an amp count and/or stick an amp probe on it and see what total draw is. If your running extra light, CD player, compressor running to much because of an air leak in your boingers ECT ECT - you CAN be literally burning up the stator from heat being produced from constant draw.. Another good point is to check your stator area and make sure any/all oil points are open so oil is getting to it to cool it. I highly doubt that the problem is getting high voltage (over charge) thru your regulator - because that would show up in bulb burn out first - remember, VOLTAGE is the pressure - amperage is the flow.... 'Puc
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BINGO TIM!! That is exactly what I have been doing here. I also have a syringe with a hose that connects to my bleeders and its full of fresh fluid in it - PERFECT for "on the road testing".. I am about to disconnect the pedal completely from the master and then try a c-clamp on the piston on the rear caliper and see if I can force fluid back thru the return orfice in the master without a complete tear down.. Anyone have any idea where the return orfice is located in the rear master?? You all are AWESOME!! Thanks again for the assist - all greatly appreciated! 'Puc
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and THAT is exactly why I am in the middle of all this.. I know from experience that right here in my own little garage with all the internet help (thanks again) and my tools and salvage parts and a place to sleep and shower is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY better then having this baby decide to lockup out in the middle of Moab/Utah in 128 degree temps!!! Carl,, NO wiser words have ever been spoken!!
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Thanks for the FAST replies folks.. I am having the problem with the cap off the rear master, I also bled a bunch of fluid off at the caliper bleeder(s) so I am pretty sure its not an over filled master. Could it still be Yammer? Wouldnt a sticking proportioning valve show up as not letting either the front or back - not both - release? As it is now, both front and rear stick the same and both release if I open the bleeder on either caliper.. I did check the "slack" in my pedal and it has plenty, another very good suggestion though. I thought that was it earlier today when working on it cause my pivot arm was very sticky and holding the pedal down a little.. I even pull up on the pedal and hold it up so I am pulling the actuator arm out of the master cylinder,, doesnt help.. Has anyone ever had a master apart and know if I can clean the return port orfice out without a complete tear down?? I dont want to open the system if I dont have to (remove lines).. All great suggestions though!! THANKS AGAIN GUYS!!!!! 'Puc
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Here's the scoop:
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I would pull the carbsk, drain them, shoot wd into the bowls, shake em a little and drain em again, squirt the slides with wd and work em up and down a little, spray the whole assembley with fogging oil and wrap in a clean rag sprayed with fog. Pull the plugs, rotate crank until you can spray fogging oil into each exhaust/intake port and see it going into the jug - covering the valve faces and seats. Fog her down thru the plugs real good, put the plugs in, stuff the exhaust/intakes with clean oily rags. Make a wrap around the ports with duck tape. Spray the motor down with fogging oil and store it and the carbs in dry area.. If it does set for a few years before you go to use it again I would take the valve covers off and pre-lube the valve train before I fired it up again.. No sense in scoring cam journals on a good motor... 'Puc
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You got some good advice going.. Never lift from the aluminum on the engine - you never really know how thick the casting is that your lifting on and if you hole it you WILL be sick.. ANother point to NEVER forget is to stablize your scoot once its up - I tie mine down with tie downs so there is no way it can move while working on it. This is especially important if your removing a wheel or gonna be wrenching.. The last thing you want is that baby to come over on you!!
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Dont forget that our scoots use an electric pump to move fuel to the carbs - they are NOT gravity feed. The fuel tank is below carb level so, without a fuel pump the carbs would get no fuel.. THerefore, the ONLY time that shutting off the valve is going to assist in anything would be if you forgot and left your key on and kill switch activated and start button on..
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I have had several snowmobile trailers over the years I have used for hauling bikes on - they all served well.. Then about 5 years ago a friend bought one of those cheapy ($240) little 4x8 bolt together flat beds from Farm and Fleet. He bolted it together and used it for about a month to haul his dirtbike on, he complained about it being way to flimsy and I offered him 100 bucks for it. I wanted it to tow behind my Ford Festiva. He was happy to kget rid of it! I took it and welded all the joints up, put a sheet of 3/4 inch wolmanized for a deck on it and 2x8's flat along the sides and down the center.. This little trailer went from a flimsy worthless little snot rag to a VERY firm - GREAT pulling trailer! I hav towed big bikes all over the country on it behind my little car - getting 42 mpg the whole time!! I believe that Harbor Frieght is now carrying this cool little trailers - CHEAP! If you go this route, make sure you get the one with 12 inch wheels with tires rated at 1200 pounds. Also, as I recall the axle under the trailer is rated at a ton.. Also you WILL have to weld up the seams - bolting it together just dosnt work!! Five years of countless trips and I am almost ready for another one myself! Hope this helps! 'Puc
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Please keep in mind that the same rule of tire pressure on cars applies directly to scoots - low tire air pressure = heat build up = early tire wear and possible tire failure.. Run air pressures at sidewall PSI.. Of course, if you get stranded out in the desert sand running your tires down to 10 pounds will get out of the sand (works great) BUT not on the highway hahaha 'Puc
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Also I might add, low voltage on a battery is the number one cause of starter failure... give your starter a fighting chance for a long life - keep a good battery onboarc! 'Puc
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I had exactly that same thing going on with my 84 Royale.. Went thru several clutches with it - course,, I didnt ride like a sane person either.. Anyway, my "NEW" 83 began acting up right away as soon as I got her on the road. I had done all the previously mentioned maintenance and had done so on my 84, didnt help.. I decided that I was going to fix this sucker come heck or high water.. I read somewhere about weak springs on the pressure plate of our scoots.. Pulled the side cover, pulled a plate spring, started pickin thru my supply of springs (been a biker both dirt and street for years - got tons of old bike parts at my disposal).. ANyway, found some old springs that measured up off a 92 KDX200. Measured the spring strength and the KDX's were WAY stiffer.. Stuck em in and guess what - NO slippage at ANY R range in ANY gear.. WORKS AWESOME!!!!!! 'Puc
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Got a pic of those Jardines..
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oope
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There was also an update on the cooling for your stator. It only amounts to a different crank nut (has a hole in the center to deliver oil) and a splash piece as I recall.. The reason those early model stators failed is they got so hot they fried.. I think Ricky Stator would be your best bet - I got my update from him a long time ago and it has worked perfect all these years. Their number is 1-800-521-0277. Electrx is another - 1-888-369-8359. Good luck 'Puc