cowpuc

Thanks and hats off to you for jumping in to help Patch.. I know what you mean about doing whats gotta be done regardless.. Back when the HIV days were heating up I came upon on accident while out biking, got pretty bloody as I was the first one there.. When the police arrived they offered me some rubber gloves and a face shield but I declined and asked about some hand cleaner.. The officers scolded me for not taking precautions but thanked me for the early assist.. Kind of a double edged sword IMHO but aint no way on Gods green earth I could just stand there and not help someone in need,, guess I am made like you brother.. SPECIAL DOUBLE DOUBLE TRIPLE HUGE THANK YOU TO ALL OF OUR 1ST RESPONDERS DURING THESE DAYS.. YOU FOLKS ARE HERO'S IN MY EYES!!

@ecbaatz,,, we got to chatting last night about the Silversides sub here in town and I think you mentioned your Navy years being spent on a Sub? It just dawned on me that while being Admin up at Baker College in Cadillac for a couple years, I befriended one of our Profs. His name is/was Doug Blakemore. Super nice guy, retired Navy man.. His time was spent on a Sub too. Any chance you might know Doug?

,, you ripping that back up again?

You two have my/our deepest prayers my brother in the Lord. Please take care of her brother, double duty at this particular time. Also PLEASE take double good care of yourself my friend. We will be praying that the test comes back negative and she is just maybe a little tired from working so hard doing her part in saving others.. Keep the faith, lean on God and trust/know that endless Prayers Up on her/your behalf are happening!! Love you both Puc

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, thats like 1400 bucks Americanized money.. This keeps up, a varmint out to be able to pick up a decent MK1 for under a hundred dollars

Think I would just clean it up real well and touch any compromised solder area with my soldering iron to reset the solder.. Not adding solder, just touch it so goes fluid for a second and let it cool to reset.. If memory serves correctly, it seems like there are a couple diodes that like to fail on these boards and others have replaced.. Maybe do some research/forum searching cause I am sure there are complete and exhaustive instructions of such.. I know the components are on the other side of that board.. Maybe pulling those four screws to release the board to get to them.. Pain in the neck when they fail eh.. And people that know me have the nerve to ask why I miss points ignition so much

Your more than welcome brother, hope it all works out and you end up slaying all kinds of fish out there playing with that Yammie boat engine.. Let us know how it comes out.. If it dont work and it was mine,, long before I shelled out 400 bucks for a new one I would probably do a little research on the specs to make sure it would fit and be thinking along this line: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-247-88790-24788790-9-Horse-Power-now-Blower-carburetor-carb/223272117076?hash=item33fc0e2354:g:bQYAAOSwH8VeAaEX https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Carb-Kit-For-kohler-8hp-on-a-Troy-Bilt-wheel-horse-tiller-Engine/153866645162?hash=item23d32aaeaa:g:SeYAAOSwHfZdPlKg https://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR-FOR-TROY-BILT-CHIPPER-VAC-47279-47261-65582V-SHREDDER-HORSE-TILLERS/143320921013?hash=item215e97b3b5:g:KpoAAOSwYNVdIDbB When all fails, my favorite saying is: its always something Puc

Shalom my friend.. From a totally back yard mechanics brain who has never owned an RSV but who has fired a few shots on the MK1's so take this with a grain of salt, couple things come to mind. First would be air in the hydraulics.. If it were mine I would carefully bleed off the slave a little with a piece of clear tubing attached to the bleed nipple and the clear line draped over the seat so I could watch the fluid inside the line for air bubbles and I would be assured I was getting no air back into the slave as I was bleeding.. Next step, and even maybe more importantly IMHO, is I would turn the bars to the right to bring the master res as level as possible, I would stuff rags around and under the bango bolt at the master and carefully bleed from that joint.. It takes a little finess to do this but it does not take much bleeding there to remove air from that spot. Tiny little air bubbles like to gather there on my MK1's and those tiny bubbles, even one, can be just enough to cause compression of the fluid enough to mess up the travel on the slave piston resulting in incomplete pressure plate travel.. Does that make sense? Next would be possible notching of the plate ears where they contact the clutch basket and/or "sawtoothing" on the basket flanges themselves.. This is very common on dirt bikes where clutches are used a lot while track/dirt riding.. I have encountered such on my worn out, beat up old 1st Gens too but I suspect this not to be the case on your scoot as I suspect you are not riding a beat up old bike with 200,000 plus miles on it.. I suppose running to heavy of oil or very cold oil could do something similar.. It would probably not be impossible for thick/heavy oil to be thick enough for a crawl to ensue upon initial disengagement.. Does it do this when warmed up? Did it just start doing this or been doing it for ever? Recently change your oil?

All sound advice IMHO. This may sound wayy out there but if it was mine I would be double checking the carb slide diaphrams.. Maybe pay close attention to the areas that contact the carb body as well as the areas down at the slide as well as the usual pin hole/tear inspection. Also maybe double check and make sure you dont have a brake hanging up.

Must of been a Thursday pic Peggy,,, handful of people and no canopy with a pair of Big Tom's red undies flying from it up yet

Just thought of something else brother.. No idea on the RSV if you can do this,, if not, I would just use the key switch to aquire same results.. On my 1st Gens = turn key on,, rock kill switch on and off to cycle the fuel pump.. Keep cycling fuel pump until it fills the bowls fully and will cycle no more.. Trying to start the bike without full bowls is a fools errand IMHO.. With bowls full, slip choke on, throttle closed, hit starter,, when she starts - let her idle for just a few seconds and work choke off slowly to not over choke and blacken thoselittle "D" plugs, adding little throttle blips until she will take throttle..

IMHO, if they are both regular acid filled, regular maintenance type batteries with the removable caps I would pull the caps, check acid levels, add distilled water to bring each cell up to full fill, hook up the charger and let em fully charge. While charging I would look into each cell making sure they are all bubbling/taking charge. When the battery stops taking charge, the bubbling will stop meaning its as charged as its gonna be.. Unplug the charger or remove of the negative clip first so you dont get a boom.. Check acid levels again after battery has cooled and top off if needed. My charger now has an amp gauge on it but I used a trickle charger for years with no gauge.. The above always worked perfect as described above. No-Maintenance batterys - I have removed the non-removable caps and refilled them with great success.. Gel Batterys - no idea.. Probably just replace when gone.. Lithium Batterys - neighbor left his lithium on charger over winter in his HD and found out that was not a good idea.. Bike smelled funny, wouldnt crank, popped the seat and found out the thing got hot enough in there that it almost started a fire = battery box/seat pan area melted big time.. IMHO, and remember who ya heard this from cause I am no electrical giant,, if battery condition is questionable = get new.. Top cause for complete starter failure on these little bike starters = weak/dead cell batteries (seconded only slightly by resistance at the cable ends)..

Time is proving that elderly, whose immune systems are already weakened, and those who have comprimised immune system are paying the big price.. Quarintining those in that category and/or let those of us in such a category practice self quarintining and then let all others go back to work seems reasonable too me.. Expecting the Government to solve all our problems has never worked, individual responsibility has been, and always will be the solution IMHO.

Never a dull moment in the industry.. Beemers latest release into the cruiser market is an 1800cc push rod/air cooled bike.. Stayed with shaft drive,, updated the clutch so it wont lock the rear wheel on a downshift,, pretty neat.. Looking at it though,, as the writer of the article, I am wondering about the heat issue that plagues all air cooled scoots, especially with the creep to big ol honkin cubes.. This one though,, with its jugs capturing the feet/legs and then being encircled by exhaust,,, even though its not fairinged slowing down air flow, it will be interesting to hear about how she does in the cooking the legs/feet category.. Pretty good read,, thinkin of dragging my R1 out for a putt around the block now,, see if I can run me some Virus's.. https://riders.drivemag.com/news/bmw-r18-cruiser-preview-price-better-than-harley-davidson?fbclid=IwAR3JUpHMVPybezTVFrBNKA799LyH7e2NxEgL-YAQhxORWSR0ZwrflsqKgO8

RATSSSSS,, if it weren't for this stupid virus thing he could have a WOLO install party Sly:

Just start reading,, easy peasy: http://americanmotorcyclist.com/For-Members/The-Magazine/Magazine-Archive ""EXPANDED ACCESS: for the next 30 days the AMA is allowing non-member access to American Motorcyclist online edition. Please tell your motorcycling friends and help spread the word about the AMA!""

All great advice so far IMHO.. Idling issues can often be associated with plug fouling/ignition issues.. Weak spark at idle can also be rectified with with new plug caps and/or removal of small amount of plug wire where the wire connects to plug cap as that is where resistance increases due to corrostion. Remember: good compression/carburation/ignition all required for good combustion. Anything, including plugged air filter/exhaust can interrupt the outcome..

:sign yeah that: Sawtoothing/wear on the surfaces the plates ride on or wear on plate ears that ride on the mating hub surfaces can also cause plates not to disengage properly resulting in clutch drag can also be an issue. Also double check the plate stack for proper alignment, on OEM plates there are small punch marks for proper plate alignment.

Kind of rough language at times,, to much for a kid but this guy seems to be the most relevant from a non-political perspective IMHO.. and here Dr Vuong interviews one of his colleagues, also interesting..

I repaired a leaker on a cross country tour one time by cleaning the mating surfaces the best I could, splitting the new gasket with my jack knife, slipping it in and setting it in Seal All and allow over night to set up.. Sounds funky BUT,, couple hundred thousand miles later when she went to scrap, second gear was still gone and bike was a worn out disaster but the pet cock was still holding solid

Thinking Freebird did this with his Lawman, I may have bonked my head on one while loosing bolts under it, so stuff would fall off and I could tease him about it, while laying on his garage floor last MD.. Don,, what were those purdy things,, Kury-Cans? Hope I aint barking up a wrong tree,, sorry if I woke you up from your beauty sleep for nothing Boss

Almost all OHC scoots I have worked on are not roller/ball bearing on the cams. They are line bored aluminum journals carrying the cam shaft which tend to be more susceptable to going high side on tolerances in the cam saddles over time,, especially on high mileage/poorly maintained engines (change your oil when the oil gets dark whether running full synthetic or dino,, unit motors running wet clutches that deposit clutch fibers into oil especially need clean oil). IMHO, making sure the cam lobe positioning for checking lash requires that the non testing lobes be putting pressure on valves to mitigate tolerance wear in the cam journals so that is added into the lash measurement.. If OEM spec on valve maintenance does not promote this (sometimes in dealing with scoots with valve overlap ground into cam grind, valve/cam pressure on non testing lobes is not spec), I like to set lash to spec in manual and then recheck with pressure on in different cam position. IMHO, valve to valve seat wear is most common loss of lash tolerance causing valves to go tight.. This can be from either valve face wear or seat wear or both.. Modern valve/seat composition has greatly reduced a lot of issues causing tolerance loss and now adays, IMHO, the most common cause of failure/need for maintenance is abuse from not being ridden and corrotion taking place from lack of use. Side note,, about the new Venture and valve maintenance.. I was recently chatting with a friend who spins wrenches at the local Yam shop.. He commented that he had a new one in that he adjusted the valves in and was not able to get it to quiet down and was thinking another cam/lifter replacement under warranty.. Chatting with him, something dawned on me,,, I asked him if he checked both valves being operated by the hydraulic uni cam being used in the new one.. He said he had checked the valve under the adjustment screw as that was the only valve adjustment there was.. I told him that I would actually also check the mating valve as face/seat loss on the valve under the adjustment screw could actually increase lash on mating valve as the adjustment valve lifted up the rocker.. Scratched his head, he nodded and said I will let you know - sounds possible..

Oh Vaz will ride the mountains all right,, you can trust the varmint for that sister... Just don't trust him to bring you a baby rattlesnake, some people have no dignity when it comes to baby rattlesnake promises..

Sorry Mama,, I was copping a zzzz on the couch,, laying on my back with my head tipped sideways and Oreo Cookie slobber running down the side of my face..

Worked awesome Randy,, gotta say though,, I dont see no theory here - I remember like yesterday where I was standing and what I doing when JFK was taken down... It did happen... Now by whom? I know but I cant say cause that would be and I never participate in such folly.. Thanks Rand for the post!! In honor of other lop eared quarintined varmints who might even still be to lazy to copy/paste your link,, I will also try something here: