cowpuc

Oh,, and time of year and are you camping?

@Pasta Burner,, Point to point, how much of 50 are you planning on riding and are you going to be riding it both directions to and from? The more concise you are the more help I may be able to be. There is a LOT of wonderful things to see out there and I hope this trip is nothing short of SPECTACTULOR for you! Puc

And a mighty HOWDY right back your way @Shortskimpre! I just looked your scoot up on a parts fiche and saw no sign of a vacuum operated petcock there so we can cross that off our list. Rusty fuel tanks create teeny tiny particles that easily slip thru fuel filters, even double filters cant catch them all, and those little varmints can/will cause issues like you are experiencing cause it dont take much to gather on the float valve needle or seat and give an uncontrollable fuel flow into the carbs. I think once you get your coated tank back and those needles recleaned you should be good to go. If it were mine I would tinker with the carbs while waiting for the tank. I would drain the carbs, close the drains then take some fresh fuel in a large ag syringe and squirt it into the carbs thru the output line detached from the pump. Do that until I either felt the valves close so I couldnt force more fuel in (meaning the needles/seats were working again) or I seen raw fuel entering the carbs again. If that failed I would try air pressure applied to that output line again (after draining the carbs again of course) and then redo the cleansing attempt with carb cleaner. All with hopes I didnt have to remove the carbs to hand clean those float valves. On another note, be sure and check the oil in your crankcase just to be sure the case oil has not been contaminated.. Puc

I am with @Freebird..As I recall those bikes were a totally different engine with the absence of a balance shaft internally. I would look very careful as the exterior of the engine cases and double check motor mount locations and the like. Regardless though, the loss of 20 hp or so would definitely be a cause to make me skip this one @Papa Fred BUT the choice is yours..

did you take a close look at the interior of the fuel tank before you pumped fuel into the freshly rebuilt carbs? What year/model of bike? Some bikes employ a vacuum operated fuel petcock that, if the petcock diaphram gets a hole in it I have seen do similar things.. If we are talking about a Venture here and it were mine I would probably drain the carbs into clear jar, let the jar set for an hour or so and then look at the bottom of the jar to see how much tiny particled gook was in the carbs.. I would say yeah, you probably got a stuck float in your rebuild but highly unlikely all 4 would stick at the same time.. Sounds suspiciously like ya got a rusty tank routine going on there.. Take a peek.. Puc

@Bulldog, I have a complete used bypass you can have for $30 plus shipping.. If you are in the states I should be able to ship for $10 or $15..

@Papa Fred,, we are walking into uncharted territory for me on the Venture (I have personally split hundreds of cases on other scoots though) so bear with me on this and consider the source. When we 1st moved here and my neighbor found out about my background he took me over to his garage and showed me his old Kawasaki Voyager XII that had been sitting under a cover for years, an extremely low mileage complete bike. he said "$350 and its yours". HUH says I. He then explained that he had hooked the oil drain bolt (that hung lower than the frame rails) on a rib on his trailer while loading it and busted a huge section of the internal cases out and all the oil instantly came out. The quote on the repair at the time was close to 4 grand because, according to the dealership he bought it new from, the engine had to come apart for repair. I bought it, ran it up in the air on my lift, pulled the oil pan, discovered the snapped off piece that supported the oil pump was easily removable thru the oil pan access. Within a few hours I had the bike back together and ready for prep to hit the start button (cleaning the carbs took wayyyy more time than the original issue repair). Moral of the story, NEVER overlook the obvious my friend. All that said, if the pan is removable, if I were in your shoes I would actually begin the repair attempt on your Venture with removing the pan. I would do that because I would want to account for as many of the missing parts from that bearing as I possibly could. I am not one to want to ride cross country with unattached parts/pieces laying around in the internals of the engine I am relying on. There is also a really good chance that with the pan removed you will be able to examine the tranny for any damages that may have occurred/trapped pieces/parts from the bearing. Unfortunately you wont be able to examine the bearings that may have been exposed to pieces of the failed bearing but its still worth a shot IMHO. If most of the failed bearing parts are accountable for, leaving the pan off, I would then proceed with an attempt at removing the failed bearing without pulling the engine, from what I see it looks doable. Notice the case split line is right across the bearing that needs replacing? That is a very familiar sight to me and tells me the outer race of the bearing you are looking at is not a press fit and indeed, that 3 hole retainer is capturing the bearing between itself and a shoulder behind it,, thats nice! The inner race on the shaft will be the issue but probably overcomeable for removal without pulling the engine. I would first test the inner race for tightness in fit by hitting it at an angle with a punch and see if it would move on the shaft,, I doubt it will. I would then cut a piece of pipe whose I.D. would slide over the shaft but whose O.D. would not be larger than the I.D. of the inner race of the bearing. I would cut the pipe long enough that it would extend past the end of the exposed shaft to allow me to run a tap in the inside of the pipe so a bolt could be used to push against the face of the shaft. I would grind a small amount of relief on the O.D. of the other end of the pipe so I have a beveled edge to TIG weld to. I would then TIG the pipe to the inner race, pull the retainer, put a washer on the face of the shaft end to push against and pull the bearing by tightening the bolt screwed into the end of the pipe. When installing the new bearing I would be VERY careful how I hard I hit it to drive it back in. I would start it with light tapping to make sure the outer race is not in a bind on the case but would switch to an air chisel with a punch in it instead of chisel and I would let the vibes from the air chisel work the bearing on.. There ya have it,, Puc P.S.,,, in all my years of riding the Ventures I have never seen a failed bearing there. Didnt you say you pull a trailer? I cant help but wonder if the added torque needed to pull a trailer didn't somehow have something to do with failure of that bearing? All that said in another shot at stirring the pot around here lol

dang your good LOL

The tranny itself sets internal but the clutch and all associated gears driving the clutch set externally. If the problem were shedding of tranny gears the pieces and parts would land internally,, probably. Yes, you definitly will have to pull the engine IF the tranny is gone but it just doesnt sound like that is the case. The bearing that the supports the outer clutch hub is actually not a "bearing" with rollers or balls, its actually a bushing that is pressed into the backside of the hub and is not replaceable with OEM parts. The little bearing in the pressure plate serves as a bearing for the clutch rod that forces the pressure plate open with the clutch slave piston pushes on the rod when you pull the clutch lever in so very little chance that that is related to the failure.. The bushing in the clutch basket is lubed thru oil bath and I suppose it is possible that a short duration of loss of oil from a oil pump drive gear failure could cause failure at that bushing. When removing the clutch assembly after you pull the pressure plate that mates with the fiber clutch plates you can remove the first section of clutch rod with no fear of fluid loss, matter of fact, you can remove both sections and the ball bearing between them with no threat of fluid loss OR the rods to come flying out because the clutch fluid that activates the clutch is held inside the clutch slave. There are no springs or fluid pressures there to be concerned with. I would NOT pull the clutch lever during all this though because forcing the slave piston back in may create issues you dont need, just refrain from pulling it. In all seriousness, in my opinion the hardest part of the whole tear down is breaking the clutch boss nut loose because you have to hold the boss/basket together and keep them from spinning to break the large nut loose and do so with no help from clutch discs that are helpless because the pressure plate has to be removed to get at the nut. When I had my shop I had a pile of clutch steel plates that I had welded an "arm" onto to hold the boss while removing that nut on all kinds of bikes. You can easily make them if you have a spare steel plate and a welder. I also had GREAT success removing that nut with an air impact but if you try that DO NOT try to hold the boss by hand,, it'll rip up your hand. Instead take a bike tie down strap and wrap it around the boss, use it like strap wrench. WOW,, got lengthy,, sorry about that.. All that above is coming from a mind that has been out of it for a longgg time so dont be surprised if one of the clubs guru's jump in and correct me but dont hesitate to give it a shot until they do. there really isn't much to it and not much that one of these guru's cant correct us on.. @Papa Fred, again, sooo glad you didnt have this happen while on the road! God is good! Puc

Prayers Up for Charlies family n friends while working thru the grieving process and condolences.. RIP our brother on two wheels!

Oh yeah,, SOOO SORRY TO HEAR ABOUT THIS but very glad you folks had a good trip and made it home safely. Puc

With ALL due respect to the savvy mechanics who suggested the engine would have to come out to address your scoots problem @Papa Fred,,, I dont agree,,, at least not yet. Its highly doubtful that the debris you found would have landed under the clutch basket if the failure were inside the cases beyond the area where the clutch is housed. Personally I would not make that suggestion until I had pulled the clutch entirely to examine the bearings, corresponding shafts and geared associated surfaces.. I truly think it would be in your best interest to pull the clutch out and inspect (no engine removal needed).

One of my other favorite past times on other sites when answering questions, especially when I really cant help a person in need is responding with "go ask the GURU's on VR,,, if they cant fix it no one can".

I have ALWAYS referred people back to VR on both FB and when answering questions on my U-tube page and many other utube pages in the owners "comment" section.. It may not right, it may not be acceptable but that is the way I roll. I really dont care much for either platform, never have and never will, BUT I choose to use both to OUR advantage for as long as I can get away with it LOL.. With all the fake news and misinformation infesting the internet these days I am one who likes to focus on truth. I know,, I am wayyy out there in some of my thought processes but I still don't think even our own Face Book page did our club any favors as far as keeping the group dynamics going that we at VR had the blessing of experiencing years ago. I know,, pretty hardcore

YUMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

OUTSTANDING!! Thanks for the update @Pop! MANY MANY MANY fantastic miles to you and your scoot!

@GolfVenture, go to Partzilla and get a part number for what your looking for/working on for us. I would be more than happy to look thru my pile of Relays and see if I have one. Here is the page from Partzilla that shows relays for the MK1's.. Any of these what your looking for? https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1983/xvz12tk/electrical-1

You are welcome on the mems @byekryam,,, what sayest I? I sayest 40k is just getting broken in IF the bike has been maintained.. Personally, I have seen bikes with wayyyy less than 10k miles that were totally trashed from abuse.. 250/300k is not an unreasonable life expectation from one of these great big gorgeous V-4 Yam's of any year IMHO

@byekryam here is our (my wife and I) experience on @videoarizona's 2nd Gen. It does take some practice but no different than any other bike IMHO. Vaz can tell you what he had altered on his 2nd Gen before we did this test cause I have no clue. I will also attach a slow ride vid of my wife (Tip) and I on our 1st Gen to compare. Hope this helps some in your decision making. Puc

ABSOLUTELY 100% ROCK SOLID FACT @ChiefGunner! All stickers on Tweeksis are also EARNED stickers.. Well,, ok,, I take that back,, there have been a couple people from other countries (like @Aussie Annie and Jonas from Iceland - for the life of me I cant remember Jonas's screen name, old age I reckon..) who brought Tweeks stickers from their homeland and those are on there BUT,, that is only a couple stickers and WELL LOVED.. All the rest are earned stickers just like the colored in map areas. word of note Chief, that is a LIFETIME of touring, not a retirement of touring. I/we are sooo glad I/we didnt wait. We were homeschoolers and I spent many years in self employment so I would grab 1 kid out of 4 and go chase across the country (GREAT MEMORIES AND BONDING) and Tip would stay home and care for the other 3 (hard on marriage). That started in 1987 on my 1st MK1 - a blonde the kids named "Beeg" (short for Big Girl). The blonde side covers on our current 83 are from that original MK1 from long ago. Those Blonde covers are the only piece of our 6 bikes to have actually covered over 1 million miles. Also, the stickers are an accumulation between all bikes too as are the map colors. I have always wanted to fill in Alaska and western Canada, its been a forever dream but by the looks of things I/we are timed out. My deepest wish and prayer for you my friend is that you and your gorgeous scoot and precious wife will get the blessing from God to get to see ALL of it, even the ones we missed.. Puc P.S. - I dont have much in pics from the real old days of Beeg but I do think I have one,, hold on,, I will see if I can find one..

Hi @Pasta Burner!! Absolutely NO problem with cell service out there that I ever experienced. Maybe when you get between Tonopah and the end of 50 at Sac if your going that far but even in that desolation I don't recall no Cell Service. It may have something to do with Nellis being right there, not sure on that. If your gonna CTFW out there you really should stop and give @CMCOFFEY a hard time for me. He is a lop eared VR varmint and a good friend. You folks camping it or Moteling? I ask because if you are Moteling and want an unbelievable experience to top off the ULTIMATE of riding the alien highway from Nellis to Tonopah shoot down and grab a night ride thru Death Valley during a full moon (tenting it in the heat of the day is almost impossible). Prep your bike to be able to shut off all lights! That is like riding on a different planet = UNBELIEVABLE! As far as heat,, I found that as long as you stay west of the rockies so no humidity (and no bugs) you can deduct 15 degrees from the ambient temps for biking,, so,, 90 down south in 95% humidity is like 105 in the desert. Tip was amazed her first time touring/camping the desert and discovered the REAL truth about that saying "its a dry heat",, the dryness REALLY does make a HUGE difference - on the plus side IMHO. Start out with new tires cause the hot tarmac does eat rubber. Run your tires fully inflated - to spec on sidewall, carry WATER (at least a gallon) and grab an xtra 2 gallon can at the Shell station near the east entrance of the Xtra Terr if your gonna ride all the way over to Tonopah and strap it on. Watch the skies for jets out of Nellis and also for alien aircraft. Both are seen a lot.. well,, maybe not so much the aliens but ya never know! SOUNDS LIKE FUN Pasta!! HAVE FUN and get er done!! Puc

Its our local "bike time" here in Muskegon Mi! Tip and I are going to treat Tweeksis to the very very best treat of all, we plan to go do a ride thru!! TWEEKS WILL LOVE THIS!!!

CONGRATS @Freebird!! Glad to hear this brother, YOU deserve it! Still praying for you and your lovely bride! Puc

GORGEOUS @saddlebum just gorgeous!! We didnt see a lot of CanAm on our MX tracks, Harescrambing or Enduro's here in the States. Wayyy cool keeper ya got there brother. Would love to see a vid of it running if you decide to play with it some.. NICE SHED FIND!!

and your fuel pump is on its way Pop. It should be in your hands by Saturday. You should be riding by Saturday evening brother as it checked out fine here. All the pertinent info, including tracking number are in your P.M.'s @Pop. All the best my friend! Puc