cowpuc

Yep.. I am in agreement with Fool on this one.. I would definitely not use Chem Dip on the starter,, I tested a bunch of carb cleaners and found Chem Dip absolutely second to none for that purpose (and like you Cappy,, also use for carbon clean up when other methods just dont work = stuff rocks) but I would strongly suggest not getting that chemical anywhere near those windings - it would probably not be real friendly to the varnish coating therein.. I always like to just blow out the amature, inner starter, brush plate really well with compressed air first as that entire area is always extremely dry any way and the removes fairly easily. For further cleaning IMHO, a nylon cleaning brush (even a clean/dry tooth brush works great) is the best route cause you really do not want to scratch the coils, again forced air to assist.. Electronic cleaner is good assist too.. I like to double check the bearings and brushes before closing it and always sneak/work some synthetic bicycle chain lube into the bearings. Also, best to replace the oring seal found on the mount nose too..

No Mama,, he really did!!! Kee knows like the rest of us know,, YOU are the GREATEST chat host EVER!!!!! Now get off your lop eared varmint backsides and boot Mama's chat attendance hopes and dreams out of the universe!!!!

Wanted you to know Patch that I too am praying for your friend!!! THANK YOU for taking such good care of those you love Patch!! Prayers Up Puc

My apologies for any hard feelings here Patch.. I extend my hand to you in a handshake of friendship out of mutual respect for opposing opinions. I think it best that we drop the Big Brother/Little brother routine as well as the "game" as you call it.. I propose that we go back to addressing each other as Patch and Puc and build from there.. What say you?

Just noticed this,, 230 bucks for a full on, high cap Double/Single action 5" 9mm brand new!! Comes with 2 15 round mags.. Good looking shooter for the money as it appears.. I have friends with "SDS" products (none myself) and they seem to do pretty dog gone good although the one varmint who grabbed a 1911 45 SDS found out it cant handle flat nose 200 grain Lake City reloads like my Gen 3 loves.. Thinking it may need the chamber ramped or something.. This would be one of my concerns with something like this little shooter,, wondering if it will handle a huge plethora of ammo like the 92F's do? Anyone one got any input? Here's the shooter: https://www.classicfirearms.com/sds-imports-zigana-m16-sa-da-semi-automatic-pistol-9mm-15rd-5-barrel-black/?trk_msg=QVMNT0SB37FKVBLKOB4AMS2U6G&trk_contact=O39C9PCUPIIH5IC9PMRN4RACIO&trk_sid=AQQE9718OGNERLPS2R7GC2Q448&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=https%3a%2f%2fwww.classicfirearms.com%2fsds-imports-zigana-m16-sa-da-semi-automatic-pistol-9mm-15rd-5-barrel-black%2f&utm_campaign=20200512ZiganaM16&utm_content=Secondary

AWE!!! Wondered what happened to you Trader!! I definitely remember and miss your fellowship and input ya lop eared varmint!! Fact is,, I get it,, just about there with you myself,, this getting old is tuff stuff requiring moving on to the new/next phase in life,, it aint easy is it!! I LOVE your boat! How cool!! And also love the pic - thank you for sharing brother!! Tip and I have turned into cager tourers and was enjoying camping/touring/traveling/CTFW's of our new Hyrbid Car named Trooper until this virus thing hit.. Cant wait till we can get back at it! Will check out your classifieds, dont count on me for buying anything though cause I too have been getting rid of my own two wheeled stuff little at a time.. All the VERY best in your sales brother,, hopefully you find some young couple just starting out that can/will put a zillion miles of fun out CTFW!! Regards Puc

IMHO you are wayyyy over thinking this little brother.. This is not a gag, or a set up,, or a conspiracy nor did I ask for or trick any of the clubs members into agreeing with me in their responses in the Poll.. Fact is, this poll is 100% in response to your claim that stuck rings and/or valve issues requiring the need for compression testing are a COMMON problem (your words, not mine) with the Yamaha V-4 that most, if not all, of the members here are very familiar with. The poll results are what they are,, no more, no less.. Fact is,, as the poll proves, those issues are NOT a common problem with these engines.. Thats all there is to this Patch so YES,, this thread should definitely be taken seriously in response to your claim.. Oh,, by the way,, really missed you last night in chat!! Had a record number of participants but NO MUSIC!!!!!!

This is probably gonna sound crazy but I have suffered with that MacGuyver bug throughout my entire life,, just cant get enough MacGuverizing.. I also have thourougly enjoyed a lifetime of testing products to see if they actually stand up to the legends the companies promote them with.. In that spirit I gotta tell you about a product I discovered a product that you may find useful.. I once got one of my 1st Gens tipped over on a mountain side while out CTFW in the west.. After collecting my thoughts I realized there was no way to upright my bike so I ended up rolling it all the way upside down and over to get it uprighted.. In the process, one of my saddle bags got smashed up pretty badly.. I stitched it back together again with zip ties and went about my business.. Years later Tip and I were on our way home from Americade in NY, got caught in a HUGE thunderstorm w/ flooding.. We hit a piece of watered out highway so hard that it nocked the mudflap of the front tire and Tips feet right off the passenger bags.. 2 days later I noticed water dripping from the saddlebag I had repaired years earlier.. I opened the bag and found my tools still underwater.. I had tried a bunch of sealents/adhesives to seal the bag up before this, this time I tried something different.. I tried this product called E-6000.. WOWZY WOW WOW WOW, was I impressed.. So much so that I actually switched my decades long go to for diaphram repair product (YamaBond 5) to this product as it proved more than worthy for that application.. I have hunch that you may find E-6000 to be exactly the product you are looking for!! I get mine from the local Family Dollar for a couple bucks a tube!! Ohh,, by the way,, I think it was a dear friend of mine, @videoarizona , who once told me that he used to use this stuff either in the military or in road work for attaching reflectors to roadways or someway.. Could be wrong... Regardless,, IMHO the stuff is amazing!!

Sure sounds like the stator, or possibly the voltage regulator to my untrained brain Pasta.. Maybe taking a gander on one of my little totally amature video's would be of some sort of assistance.. Please forgive the back yard mechanican, and also please over look that less than stellar video quality (only nay sayer I actually picked up in the comments on this one in over 4k views was "get a tripod" )..Take a peek,, maybe it will help.. In the meantime, I will also take a look at it and see if I missed anything that I think may help you in your cause brother.. If I do,, I will post it up.. Also,, if you have any questions, you can post em up here and I am sure that one of the club guru's will be along to assist or I will try and answer your questions.. Here is the vid:

I highly doubt this would be financially or reasonably possible.. I have never been inside of one but I cant imagine Yamaha putting a crankshaft assembly with the gear on it needed to drive the balance shaft into a nonbalanced motor so a crank assembly would be needed too. I also doubt the case halves in the nonbalanced motor would be machined for the balance shaft so it would probably require some machining to accept the balance shafts.. Another thought to be aware of,, the balance shaft is not what increases or decreases the max RPM in and of itself.. That is all determined by piston speed designed into the original build.. A long rodded engine will have a lower rpm capability because for every 360 degree turn of the crank the piston has to travel farther so its speed is increased per revolution and as the rpm's increase - known destructive piston top speeds are reached sooner in the rpm range so the engine requires a lower red line.. Shorter stroked, multi cylinder engines (so piston mass is spread out) work opposite of that.. for kicks, lets get @Patch and @Flyinfool involved in this discussion... I know they both love to learn about this stuff :crackup: (we go round and round and round with me trying to convince them that what I am talking about above is accurate)..

by the way,, as always you are more than welcome Bro!!

look at the victims name by their avatar,, spell it exactly as spelled there.. Precision is the name of the game.. Now if they have a space between their name somewhere,, something along the line of "Yama Mama" - then I am not sure.. I still have not figured that one out... I know if I write YamaMama , just dropping the space,, only "Yama" will show up as summons as shown.. Gonna have to find someone wayyy smarter than your big brother to teach you that hat trick.. speaking of crazy stuff,, I wonder if Marcarl ever figured out where the ghost chatter named Robogord came from last night,, now that was SPOOKY!!

I think I would rethink this angle of defense if I were in your shoes little brother.. Fact is, there is no conspiracy,, none,, nada. Fact is, the ONLY reason those other lop eared varmints thoughts/experiences align with mine is because they know the truth of the matter.. None,, not even one of the varmints who voted in the above Poll, voted as they voted to defend your big brother.. Life around here in the club don't work like that,, never has,, probably/hopefully never will.. Nope,, sad to inform you of this but you only get ONE big brother and that is me ,, aint you the lucky one

:big-grin-emoticon: ,, lucky I found this little brother,, want some more big brother advice?? When you want to summons someone in the club, your big brother included,, put an "@" directly in front of their accurately spelled club name before you post your reply.. That will send a message to them notifying them that you are gunning for em.. An example? I am going to put an "@" in front of your friends name that always defends you against your big brothers teasing = Flyinfool and watch him magically appear..You ready? @Flyinfool ,, your french buddy needs you...

By the way Patch,, you really got to admit,, the durability of these Yamaha V-4's is absolutely AMAZING!! LOOK at the results of the genuine, true to life,, for real Polling of the actual owners/riders of these things!! UNREAL!! To that you HAVE to admit

You lop eared varmints think this is something,, you should join us in chat sometime :biker::biker::biker::biker:,,,, right little brother?

Ohh,, by the way little brother,, you still only fixed one of your videos.. Thats why I reminded you:big-grin-emoticon:

,,,, You get that copy/paste from one thread to another figured out little brother? Glad to help there too,, after all, thats what big brothers are for = helping their little brothers learn proper methods of doing stuff.. :witch_brew: JUST passed the police down the street!! 2 cop cars,, flashers going,, had a truck pulled over that fits the limited description of the nail throwers pick up that they gave me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! May have some exciting news to share soon!!! :fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emoa $1000 worth of ruined tires JUST IN MY CASE!!!!! Hang em high!!

Just a follow up here in the interest of our club.. The pump that many of use, as mentioned by Roller a couple posts back is something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Harley-Davidson-Touring-Motorcycle-Bike-Air-Shock-Suspension-Pump-100-PSI/293480127919?epid=1346375362&hash=item4454c75daf:g:4rgAAOxybqpRhdKA Many of us, myself included, have found that using a compressor to put air in shocks is not a good idea.. The air over shocks in our bikes are not like recharging the nitrogen on a dirt bike rear shock.. Its actually fairly low pressure we deal with in a very small quantity. i Also, it turns out that in this thread the club guru's were talking later model bikes. The 1st Gens that many of us ride were/are also remote fill - not all had onboard compressors. The fork inlet is found on the dash (at least on my 83/84's MK1's) - there is an actual shrader valve cover up by the key,, to the left.. Fork max IMHO is 14 or 15 pounds.. Personally I like running Progressive springs, 3/4 inch of pre-load, 12 weight Bel Ray to 3 1/2 inches from top with fork compressed and springs inside when filling, then NO air.. Rear shocks on the 1st Gens were capable of wayyy more pressure than the later models.. I run 70 pounds with 2 up and full load and it works awesome.. 50 pounds when riding alone makes an excellent handling scoot IMHO.. IMHO, Makes no difference what scoot your putting air in shocks,, those little hand pumps (last one I bought was 15 bucks but it was non HD) are a must if you CTFW a lot..

From chat cause you went poof!! Made no sense and your youtubing didnt work,, to fix your youtubing, go back to the youtube video you want to post,, look at the bottom of the video,, right under the display,, see where it says SHARE?,, click on share, copy that url and paste in post

,, well I will be horn swaggled and completely ,, learn something new everyday!!! Crow for dinner,, its ok,, I kinda like the stuff TKS Steve!!

Not sure so much about the words of wisdom comment but,, as always Suds,, you are more than welcome for anyway I was able to help.. Sounds like you saw a real "make it run" kinda guy there installing the seals with electrical tape,, a real guru for sure.. I always used a chunk of PVC.. Had a bunch of sizes of the cheap stuff laying around for just such an occasion.. If we are talking forks off,, simply slide the pvc over the tube and bump the seal in.. talking on bike,, I used pvc I had cut in half length wise, slip the halves over the tube to form a complete circle. I could then bump the seal in by using the halves together as a slide hammer up and down the tube.. I liked to use wax paper wrapped around the tube just as an xtra precaution if working in an unclean area (like in the parking lot of a MX Track) but not necessary in the shop setting.. If you do this and find you need to use a hammer to bump the pvc to get the seal started or to seat it so you can get the clip in,, suggest you use lead, plastic or even brass hammer.. You use steel,, be very careful not to ding the tube.. Make sense? By the way,, and this is just and opinion.. especially on my MK1's,, aint no way,, aint no how I would go to all the work of dropping in new fork seals without replacing the bushings too.. I found,, at least on my bikes, that those bushings wear fairly quickly (depending of course on how much you ride dirt/gravel I suppose) and worn bushings were almost 100 % the cause of leaky/worn seals,, and also some strange front end steering dynamics. I think Mom Yam kinda sorta underbuilt the original Venture front ends.. Kinda like those OEM fork springs.. You ever hear what call those things?? I compare them to Ink Pen Springs for a reason .. Between them and the fish oil that came OEM in those early forks its a wonder that any of us canyon carvers survived some of the things we put those bikes thru OK,, I'll shut up,, all the best in your project brother!!!

Ahhh,, that wont work little brother,, that solves nothing concerning your debate defense of your statement that says: ""Stuck rings a perfect example, get them early and no problem. Above high limit is another example. These are common issues on these 4's . They are discovered thru compression checks. Another can be valves not seating tight."" Tell you what,,, you surrender your position on the above to your big brother and then we can, if you choose, move to another/different platform where I will be more than happy to teach you some more of the things you obviously have no clue about yet:big-grin-emoticon: As in all problem solving and in the spirit of The Code that states "take problem solving one step at a time lest your solution equation becomes soggy with mistakes often made but the unskilled" - lets solve this one first..

Wayyy back in the late 60's and thru the 70's,, before fork gaiters were common place on MX bikes and before inverted forks appeared on the horizon,, some us early racers used to cut plastic quart milk bottles and mount them on our lower fork legs to keep dirt from destroying fork seals - worked great, it cut wayyy down on the need for taking 35mm film and cleaning the seals out too !! Now adays, as shown in the pic below below if you look close, Tweeksis, our mk1 83 Venture sports a modern day, chrome set of that early type of upper fork tube protection design.. I know for a fact that aftermarket gaitors are available in a size that would fit on your scoot but, if I were in your shoes and could not find something I would not overlook the possibilty of picking up a set of short, chrome auto exhaust extentions and making a set of fork tube protectors similar to those seen on Tweeks,, IMHO of course..

I shaped the answers within the questions to match perfectly with what my little brother stated.. Please reread your comments that I shaped from and reread the questions I posted in the polls.. Then rewrite my questions to your satisfaction and repost the poll to see if you can substantiate that stuck rings, bad valves and such causing comprimised compression really is a common issue with our V-4's as you stated ' OR, surrender your cause little brother