cowpuc

:sign yeah that: but even if it isnt and you are trying to get the idle to slow down for improved sound or what ever remember that the oil pump system is probably designed to pump at a certain pressure at factory idle spec.. Going below that factory spec can (at least in old school stuff,, this may not be the case in this modern stuff) lead to big issues..

G'Day Mate!! How's life down under?? You mentioning heading out CTFW (chasing the front wheel) with your lady on the back sounds like a BLAST! I would LOVE to grab Tippy and Tweeks (our 83),, toss on the tent and ride the Aussie Outback - just sounds awesome!! Anyway Willy,, back to your question.. Personally I never really put much stock in owners manual suggestions for air pressures,, especially if I am running a different tire than the exact type/brand/size as came OEM on the scoot.. I prefer to go by the stamp on the side of the tire I am working with AND what I am going to be doing with the tire = i.e.,, what type of riding I am going to be doing.. For riding wheelies and/or off road riding I like to drop down the air pressures for maximum contact area.. For on road riding I like to look carefully at the max psi for max load of the tire and go from there.. Two up, fully loaded for cross country touring, especially in a high temp area I like to move close to max pressure on the tire.. I figure anything I can do to keep the tire from heating up under hot tarmac conditions is a plus in my favor.. Most of the tires I have mounted and had the honor of running the rubber off from in the last decades of riding have had max pressure at max load of 50 psi.. I will run the rear tire when touring at 46 pounds knowing that I am still under max load on that rear tire.. If (and this has happened) we do end up hauling a bunch of heavy stuff home with us,, I am never afraid to hit the tire with max pressure of 50 psi.. On a cruiser such as you are talking about (we are talking RSTD correct?),, being a lighter bike,, I may consider dropping that down to 42ish psi but,, I have also ran many many thousands of miles 1 up with my MK1 and left the psi at 46 and been very happy with the outcome.. In all honesty,, front tire not that much different,, maybe 4 or 5 pounds difference.. Another thing to note IMHO is that these adjustments should be done with the tire "Cold" as normally stated right on the side of the tire,, meaning before the tire has been ran on during the day.. I have seen tire readings on my scoots out in the desert regions to actually add 8 or 10 pounds as they heat up putting them well above the stated max psi on the sidewall.. This has never been a concern to me as I know what I started with "cold".. What would be of alarm would be if the tire was hot and I had actually stayed at my "cold" psi or dropped some - in that case I would be looking for a leak.. I know,, lots of opinion in the above but its my opinion that I live by.. Do to improper inflation I have lost a couple friends thru the years and seen many accidents,, both cars and bikes, and know of many situations in truck fleet (semi's) maintenance of the same cause that could have been totally avoided by the operators just keeping track of their air pressures and guess what,, not ONE of those incidences of tire issues were the result of over inflation.. IMHO,, go by what the engineers of the manufacturers of the tires suggest and you will be fine.. Have fun out there Mate!! Puc

Grubs, I can honestly say I have never seen that name brand of wrench in my recollect.. I will say this though,, seeing the brand name "HERbrand" on there makes me do a double take!! Seeing that bike of yours and how/where it was hit and knowing that many many years ago a really close friend of mine (buddy I worked with a Gardner Denver in Grand Haven Michigan back in the early 70's) was riding two up with his girl,, got hit in exactly that location on his brand new Norton and his girl lost her life from blood loss from the accident. HORROR does happen but fortunately at other times, as you so fortunately revealed, things don't always end that way.. Having your wrench appear out of all of this, and now finding out that it has right on it = HER BRAND,, makes me know for absolutely positive certainty that I,, if in your shoes, would DEFINITELY frame that puppy with a picture of me hugging my best friend (my wife Tippy) proudly displayed with it!! As far as the kind words, you are more than welcome my friend and I thank you for the kind thoughts/words right back.. Part of being part of this family IMHO.. I know,, we family members fight sometimes,, have our spats and disagreements BUT,, at times like these we always regroup and are there for each other - WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, just like a genuine family IRL.. PRETTY COOL!! Thanks for being part of it!! Puc P.S. - I also know exactly how you feel about having lost that wrench in the first place.. I am EXACTLY that way too.. Some of the tools in my tool boxes have been with me since I was a kid.. Funny how some of us lop eared life long gearhead varmints can be viewed as heartless but in the end, we can get so attached to a shirt, a pair of shoes or even a 10mm wrench aint it?? Glad you got your wrench back and glad you got it back when you did!!

Wowzy wow wow wow,, glad your ok brother and there right with you in soooo glad your wife was NOT onboard when this happened!! That woulda/coulda been disasterous!! Looks/sounds to me too like your RSV will be totalled.. If the claims people look in there and see any tweeking on the frame at foot peg mounts and such it a definite no go on not being totalled IMHO.. Sorry your sore BUT,, brother some of the alternatives are wayyy not good.. Take the over the counter pain meds,, take a break and then get on that Ultra my friend.. By the way,, I think you should take that 10mm wrench and frame it, hang it in the man cave! Thoughts and Prayers Up in your recovery Grubs! Puc

and then: +1000 mile days and up, two up or one up,, weeks on end,, drop the tent in the middle of the night - wake up with the sun and go right back at it CTFW till its time to drop the tent in the middle of the night again,,, living life large from the seat of the bike,,, wife or kid on back did not matter.. King of Kings best of the very best cross country touring seats IMHO = Yamaha MK1 Venture OEM stock seat right straight from Mom Yam... Combined with those 100% totally awesome fully adjustable OEM bars with extended grips that you can bend down and hold onto while you rest your hands on your knees like your riding a custom chopper,, WOWZY WOW WOW WOW what a machine!! I have been told that Mom Yam hired one of those Medical Doctor ergonomic specialist to design the seats for these old girls and guess what,, I am truly a believer... Puc

My money/guess is on its a Car Tire,, you know Rich, Dark Siding it..

That was hilarious,, Vaz n Puc repairing Vaz's 2nd Gen flat tire in a parking lot next door to a Honda shop after meeting up and checking out the new Wing :crackup:.. Rich,, point to ponder when riding your new scoot : ALWAYS WATCH FOR NAILS ON HIGHWAY WHEN TRAVELING THRU CHICAGO TRAFFIC - RIGHT @videoarizona

Now that @videoarizona recalled my attention to this thread (see his post above) it suddenly dawned on me on a reread of the thread that we are talking about riding 2 up and not a lone rider.. Thought I might also add that, IMHO, the passenger's skills in two up riding is just as important to stability as those of the varmints whose hands are on the grips.. I strongly recommend that once your parking lot slow speed practicing is to your satisfaction that practice practice practice while fully loaded for touring and with rider on back be part two.. IMHO, two up riding is just that,, two people applying their combined skills as motorcyclist to bring about a fulfilling, successful, memorable CTFW experience for both parties..

No idea on a Trailer for ya brother but please let me be the 1st one inline to offer a HUGE = :ice_congrats-vi6886:ice_congrats-vi6886:ice_congrats-vi6886 on the new scoot!!! :thumbsup:

I do have a couple 24 inch spoons and they do work great BUT,, taking them on cross country tours with me was aways questionable do to size.. I always just hauled 3x 12 inchers that I had smoothed and tweeked the ends of to my satisfaction.. ,, I will say though brother,, I do see enough umph there with those truck spoons to make a pretty decent tent rack/carrier for the scoot,, then double as spoons .. Those definitely would have came in handy in the jungle out there! Hey Ben,, you ever do split rims? I worked for Goodyear in town here for a spell when I was a kid.. Did several splitters,, nocking off the ring and beating the bead down with a beater and bar.. Remember the "Cage" for airing em back up? Wasnt one of my jobs but I did get to witness a failed splitter ring.. KAAAAABOOOMM and CLANG when that ring hit the cage..

Your 86 should already be metal propped.. The plastic only appeared on the 83/84's if I recall correctly.. As far as Pump rebuild kits,, I have done all of my 83's except this last one and always found I had to order the parts individually as I never did see an actual "kit".. Probably the reason for this is that sometimes your pump only needs certain parts.. I will say though,, IMHO, taking the time to pull and rebuild the pump = I like to go completely thru it. Sticking that impellar shaft back in with even the slightest amount of wear showing on it where the seal contacts it is just asking for Murphy to show up at the least desirable moment in a good desert CTFW journey.. I would grab and have in hand a new shaft, ceramic and rubber shaft seals, and all associated gaskets and o-rings..

Looks like a gear alignment hole or something other than an oil fill spot.. I would not remove it just to look in there. Maybe do some digging in a shop manual or wait for one of the clubs guru's who have actually worked on a later model V-4 to show up enlighten us..

There,, now they are for sure in order as shown in the manual.. Hope this helps Barney!! Puc

and then continuing here:

not sure that last set of pics came out in proper order,, I am retrying the order here and see if they match:

Sure,, I would say a faulty TPS could indeed cause what you mention.. I did know of the TPS on the later RSV/RSTD's either BUT I have never owned or worked on one either.. Before is forward what I found about the TPS,, gotta ask,, how long did the bike set after having the carbs done last spring? Did it run correctly after having them done? Has it been setting for a year? I would do the TPS check as shown in the pics from the clubs RSV service manual I am including but I would also take a really close look at plugged jetting if it has been setting for a year.. Concerning the TPS on the carbs.. Years ago Mom Yam stuck something similar on the Banchee quads.. Basically what it, the TPS, did was guard against sticking throttles and or throttles hanging up by monitoring the position of the carb(s) slide(s) in comparison to each other.. Not sure but I suppose its possible for Mom Yam to have decided to do the same with the later model multi carb V-4's.. Could also be the typical TPS sending info to a computer but I suspect this to not be the case because, as you mention,, this are not EFI bikes.. Regardless,, here is the info I came up with on how to check the TPS(s).. This info is from the RSV manual but should work for your bike too,, I hope.. Do you have a shop manual? If so, this info should be in there.. The club does not have a specific manual for your bike, hopefully this is accurate:

Of course you will,, you ALWAYS do brother!!! That's what being a full fledged,, all American Entrepreneur is all about!!!!! Keep on keeping on Bossman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Larry, I am not sure whether you are asking opinions here or just letting us know what your facing but thought I would add this just in case someone else reads this and is facing similar odds.. Having been riding the MK1's for a few years now,, starting back in 87,, I can honestly say that I never met a MK1 that came from the mom yam factory with anything other than Ink Pen springs for fork springs.. There seemed to be a following few of the MK1's years ago that traveled the philosophy that one could over come the collapsing/sacking of those Ink Pen springs by adding air to the front forks,, this,, IMHO,, turned out to be a myth.. Fact is,, those front forks need good springs to support the weight of the bike.. As the springs collapse/sack out over time (the bike doesnt even have to be ridden for this to happen) they allow the fork to drop in its static position which increases pressure at the seals as fluid is forced against them.. This, along with worn bushings top and bottom inside the bottom leg allowing the top tube to move side ways slightly, is the number one cause of leaky seals AND also creates some really strange wobbly, erratic, unstable, wandering feelings at slow speeds/high speeds and in the twisties.. Especially on a bike like the MK1's whose sectional, tubular frame is already inadequate for high speed fun.. That said,, if I were taking my MK1 down to the neck to redo bearings and also replacing seals in the process I would DEFINITELY replace the bushings in the forks, install Progressive springs, new OEM seals, make sure the upper tubes are not nicked/worn, drop in 12 weight Bel-Ray fork oil to 3 1/2 inches with forks bottomed and springs installed and bring my preload to 3/4 to 1 inch.. Then run 0 air pressure.. Then,, if a Kanuckian mechanic does check out my 1st Gen,, he/she would probably say WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, you should build bikes for all new bike OEM factories cause I aint never rode a bike that handles as well as this canyon carving machine!! All IMHO of course.. Sorry for the if thats what I just did Puc

Thanks Mama!! If I'd of known Grand Kids were this much fun with very limited liability laying on my shoulders as a "Dad",,, I would definitely of had them 1st LOL

I have tried numerous combinations and even mixing high end $$ tires with low end $$ tires and,, at the end of my CTFW career have formed this this simple solution.. If your into replacing, or being able to replace your own tires (and dont have a tire machine to do so,, meaning you are one of us long lost tire "spooners" from days gone by) go with Shinko's of the proper size and load rating.. Even if you are mixing brands (I am running Shinko front/E4 rear right now and works awesome),, Shinko for a spoon on is excellent.. On the other hand,, if you are one of the many thousands of riders who choose to trust that a dealership is always going to be there for you,, are a modern day rider dependent on tow services just in case and dont mind knowing you will have to the have a tire machine involved in swapping tires if/when the need arises, than I strongly suggest going with the Dunny E-4.. WOWZY am I impressed with the wear factor on the E-4!! The HUGE downside of the E-4 is that there is no way on God's green earth that stiff walled tire is coming off that rim without a machine to pull it.. I did spoon one on the rear rim of Tweeks because people begged me to one BUT,, it took me over 3 hours to get it on and it only takes me 20 minutes to spoon on a Shink/softer tire.. Telling you,, aint no way,, no how that E-4 is coming off without a tire machine.. All that said,, knowing what I know now and even with the added mileage of the E-4,, I would just buy a good set of Shinko's,, mount em myself so I know what I got going on in there (valve ok?, condition of rims?,, grease the pins?, grease the splines?, check my brake pads?,, align the axle?, axle nut torque properly?,, regrease wheel bearings?) PLUS,, I really do not like the idea of being at the mercy of a tow company or dealership out in the middle of the desert when its 110 degrees,,, BUT,, thats just me...

Not to long ago,, during ancient times before our club collected these $1 a month dues for us to be able to come on here and ,, I had Dial Up and used AOL.. Wowzy wow wow wow,, remember those days? That was not long after I had completed my non-traditional shot at returning to College and completing my Bachelor's degree which, at the time, included modern day (for then) computer classes with programming in DOS/Basic and COBOL,,, sheesh,, been a while,,, our word processing was all "Word Star" = like I said, ancient.. Anyway,, during those days,, my monthly internet fee was 10 bucks for the, compared to todays club environment,, we were all professional slow riders IMHO.. We lived in the sticks back then,, 5 miles of gravel roads,, several thousand acres of State/Federal land right out the back door to play on and we were fortunate to even to be able to access the internet at all.. Then we moved, got modern,, got DSL.. When we moved to our new home near the Lake Shore we also moved into more costs for phone and internet.. We ended up with Verizon at 70 a month for our land line and 20 a month for DSL over the old phone lines.. I checked into "Satellite" service with one of those little dishes on the roof.. That was 145 a month.. No way was I going there.. Our Verizon was ok some times BUT,, being they were still using (and still are) the old buried "twisted pair" routine with the wires totally suseptible to going crazy every time it rained,,, it was a non-winnable disaster.. Then one day a few years ago a couple "Comcast" managers showed up at my door.. They looked at our situation,, suggested I look into one of Comcasts internet specials and then explained how the "maintaining low fees" thing worked with Comcast.. They said I needed to get ahold of "Customer Retention" every year the month before my 12 month internet special pricing ran out.. After paying over 100 bucks a month for our land line w/ DSL two twisted pair internet that washed out everytime it rained I figured what da heck,, may as well try.. Jumped online,, found the "Comcast/Xfinity" net special those guys were talking about,, 20 bucks + 10 bucks rental for their equipment,, signed up but did not accept their equipment rental.. Bought my own router and that other thing needed to make it work.. Even talked to local Comcast people about which type of equipment to buy. Got it all for less then 100 bucks,, figured the savings of one year usage would pay for it by not renting.. Worked great.. Noticed the fine print said that at the end of the 12 month special, the rate would jump to 80 bucks a month,, made mental note to absolutely do the "customer retention" thing as playing on the internet is not worth 80 bucks a month.. Year later, contacted internet Comcast on one of those chat things at their web site,, total rediculous failure.. Got big idea to go to local Comcast business hub here in town.. WOWZY did that work out!! Customer Retention Manager there treated me like gold,, set us up for 20 bucks extention for next 12 months and told me to come back every year and they would do what they could to hold the rate there if I did.. Been doing for several years now and,, knock on wood,, still holding at 20 bucks a month for cable Internet with no more old wet two twisted wire interference.. And,, get this,, the speeds while slow compared to most,, seem to be hanging around "25" instead of "2.5" which has been fully adequate for all the streaming we can eat from more than one computer streaming at once too.. Shortly after getting the Comcast deal I completely got away from our home "land line" w/ Verizon cause they still wanted 80 bucks a month just for phone service and it only worked when it didnt rain.. I grabbed a Trac Phone to replace.. Worked awesome.. Little flip phone became my friend.. Was dirt cheap,, about 1/10th of what our home phone service cost and could take anywhere.. Then my son stuck us on his "Grand Plan" which cost him nothing cause he gets mulitple add ons for free.. Dropped the Trac Phone... Now our only phone/internet/tv bill per month is 20 bucks:178:.. We used Roku for long time to access Youtube for streaming TV/News/bike stuff/girly stuff for wife and on and on.. I seriously still dont know how anyone could ever need anything more than Youtube streaming.. There is wayyyyyyy more stuff to watch on just youtube, way I figure it,, if I run out of stuff to watch on youtube I am probably watching more TV than I need to watch and should probably get out of the house more .. Now I am using a Fire Stick as a replacement for the much Roku but only cause I got it for a Christmas present from one of the kids.. The fire stick works great IMHO.. The only thing I can say about it is if I use it alot,, sayyyyy,, to watch a couple Youtube movies back to back and then try to scroll down during a news broad cast to make a comment about why the new people got it wrong I have to go into the fire stick applications and clean the caches and then reboot the stick.. I am assuming this is only because of the limited "Ram" in the stick.. Maybe the newer Fire Sticks dont have this problem,, mine is old,, not as old as me but still old:backinmyday:.. I actually have a 40 foot tower with rotator that I intended to install in my back yard to do exactly what @videoarizona mentions.. I know for a fact that what he says is spot on!! I know we could get all the local stations,, for free,, with a set up like that.. Issue is though,, I still have not ran out of things to watch on just Youtube so there the tower lays.. I will probably just give it to some neighbor who needs to watch more tv than I like to watch.. The End

The oil that leaks out of the forward bevel gear when you pull the cover is engine oil. It has not place for refill and will do so from the engine oil system as you ride it.. Its actually not much oil loss and you probably wont even notice it in the site window but its still worth checking the engine oil site window level after you have ran the bike a little after finishing the project.. My 1st Gens all really like to be filled no higher than right in the middle of the window when sitting upright on level ground.. A little lower that midway is fine too but above midway and I start seeing breather oil collecting in the air box. I am not sure I am aware of the slotted filler plug behind the oil filler cap.. Any chance you could post a quick pic of it? I would not loosen it until I knew what is was if I were you.. It may have something to do with gear alignment or something in a rebuild process.. Would love a pic.. If you have issues posting a pic, try downsizing the pic.. I use "Paint" to resize.. Gotta get the pic size down below 1025x750 pixels I believe.. You are more than welcome in advance to my friend! Puc

120/90-18 65H - Bridgestone L303 Dunlop F16 140/90-16 71H - Bridgestone G508 Dunlop K807

Awe,, glad you found something useful in there Dog!!! You are more than welcome my friend!

Yep,, just don't mention ice cream addiction or XXXL Red Under Wear that can result from that ice cream addiction and all will be well..