cowpuc

Back in my MX'n and Hare Scramblin years I would,, what I called "tune for track" and kept a detailed log of what track got what tune.. A big part of the tuning process had to do with suspention.. I found on my track bikes, and this is just my opinion, that raising the forks in the clamps would make them steer quicker - really nice in the berms,, and lower them in them clamps made the bike much more stable at speeds over 70ish,, easier to control "in flight" off jump for landings and so on.. IMHO,, doing so is doing something you will probably notice in steering gyometry,, besides the lower of the bike height.. I also would mention that one of the things I always loved about riding Chops was the stability the longer forks also added to the bike for highway play.. Absolutely positively,, again IMHO, a good chop with a soft ride back side and at least 16 over on the forks,, raked properly so the trail is inside traditional standards and BINGO - best riding long distance HIGHWAY bike possible... As far as possibilty on a MK1 1st Gen (only ones I know anything about and even them,, only a little) I believe you would find the collar manifolds that the air line hooks to to provide air for the forks will be an issue.. Just thinking out loud and going by memory,, I think pulling the tubes,, plugging the air line holes by either tigging em or brazing them shut (I would tig em for heat control), dropping in a set of progressive springs (if you havent gotten rid of Mom Yams Ink Pen springs you should do this anyway) with an inch or so of preload, and getting the fish oil out of the tubes and refilled with good fork oil of your liking and you will not need air any longer and can now maybe adjust till the cows come home.. Puc

Knowing what I know now about E-4's and how difficult they are for a varmint who loves being able to spoon on and off his own tires I would DEFINITELY jump right on Ebay and grab a brand new set of Shinko's in the correct size and load rating as spec for my bike.. I have ran a plethora of tires, Dunnies - Michilins - Avon's - Perelli's - Metezlers and all the lower end stuff thru the years and bar none,, cost per mile - best handling and ease of swapping em out in the stranges of places using minimal tools - SHINKO's RULE!! THANK YOU @videoarizona for turning your old brother Puc onto Shinks!! They ROCK!!

IMHO and neither way is right or wrong but I think there is a big difference between a form over function and a function over form lop eared varmint.. Maybe,, possibly being more like my friend/brother @luvmy40,, I tend to be more of a function over form varmint.. When I picked up Tweeksis from @Carbon_One, @ragtop69gs commented to Larry asking how long Larry thought it would be before I made Tweeksis "mine" by removing all the bling and putting the stickers on her that her prior sisters had earned thru the ages.. As I recall,, Larry (who knows me well) said something like 1 week.. He was close.. When I got home I proceeded to rip Tweeksis apart, removing her carb (it was iffy) and replacing with Tweeks carbs (which would be the 3rd 1st Gen that carb bank had been on) and then on to removing her gorgeous, but totally in the way Chrome rear bumper, Chrome front spoiler, Chrome front rotor covers, fancy seat (nothing in the world like a bone stock, OEM 1st Gen seat) and a bunch of other always in the way at the wrong time bling.. IMHO,, when Murph strikes with a flat tire in the middle of the Mojave desert and its 110 degrees the last thing I want to do is turn a 20 minute rear wheel removal job into a 2 hour job just because of some dorky Chrome Markland trailer hitch or a set of front rotor covers.. My HD riding neighbor thought I was nuts but,, air go,, thats the way I roll being a function over form varmint...

Yep,, those rascals can be pugnacious if they haven't apart for a bit.. The pins can get rusty and stuck in the wheel and/or even the hub can corrode up a bit.. I have found a few occasions that after removing the clip sometimes a few smack with a mallet helps and maybe even some lube sprayed down the hub cant hurt.. Pasta,, here are a couple of short vids of mine that may or may not assist you.. Just knowing what it looks like once apart may help..

:sign yeah that: right there with Corporal Newkirk!! How long since you last had it running Mill? Also,, maybe turn the key on with kill switch off,, now flip the kill switch on to run while standing on the left side of the bike (clutch side) while bending down near the passenger foot peg listening for the fuel pump to cycle.. It should run for a couple seconds.. Making sure the pump is working.. Now flip the switch back off and on again.. Keep doing this until you hear the pump slowly stop cycling so you know your bowls are full and try starting it..

First off Pastor!! Hope you enjoy your visit here in the club!! Next off,, THANK YOU for your service in maintaining our way of life!! There is nothing free about true freedom, thank you for doing your part in paying the cost of it - thanks.. Should you decide to take the plunge for full membership in the club, please note the "Honor Badge" that is available for you that recognizes your service and lets all the members know you served,, you earned it and we clubbers who did not serve LOVE to honor those of you who did!! Concerning the scoot,, I would probably paint it to match what ever boat you served on.. I really like the thought of replacing the Yamaha emblems,, especially the tank emblems, with NAVY badging,, wayyy cool.. I think I would also do small American flags on either side of the front fender with a small navy symbol on the fender tip and,, especially being a Pastor,, I would do matching in size Christian flags on either side of the rear fender with a small cross on the rear tip.. WOWZY WOW WOW WOW brother,, you got yourself some decisions to make but,, being a U.S. Navy Man having chosen to serve our mighty God in your retirement,, we KNOW you will make the right decision on what ever you decide to paint your bike!! Welcome to the club.. Puc

The Boss and his Bride back to rockin it on their motorcycle ,,, best club news I have heard in a long time!!! CONGRATS YOU TWO LOVE BIRDS:thumbsup:!!

Dunk with the issue's that a few have had concerning lifter/cam failure on the new one and the thought being by some that it is due to momentary lack of lubrication,, is there any concern on your part of momentary lube loss by running an empty filter momentarily.. I have no clue whether or not the filter sits horizonally on the new one but if it did and I had one,, I think I would fill the filter prior to screwing it on just to prevent an air gap in the oil system.. Just thinking out loud brother..

Sounds like its time to trade in some Yamaha ink pen springs for a good set of progressives to me. Maybe check neck bearing torque in the process...

@jasonm. ,, years ago before my health started failing I use to love tinkering, experimenting with and testing bike stuff for kicks when I was not out CTFW.. Being one to always have always mounted (spoon on) and balanced (the old fashioned/old schooler way of hanging em and finding the heavy spot) my own tires, I had a friend suggest I use balance beads as I was getting ready to mount/balance my 5th rear tire for the season.. I am including a couple videos of mine that show some of that adventure in bead balancing.. I also have video's showing how I balance the old fashioned way using bike tie downs so I can balance them on the road should I get a flat (which has happened several times while CTFW to me), if your interested just let me know and I will post them for you. The balance bead routine revealed some interesting things for me,, all my opinion so consider the source.. I found the rear tire, with 2 ounces as perscribed by the manufacturer actually did quite well.. I could feel imbalance at speeds below 35ish as the beads maybe did not have time to "gyro" in my opinion,, I have been told that I am wayyy to "sensitive to feel" as a rider but I do enjoy slow riding in the mountains and really did not care for that "feel".. Above 30 to 120 was fine, I also enjoy some face paces so the beads did pass my grading as far as a permanent balance method for the rear from that perspective .. The manufacture told me that they have people that use them on "Litre Bikes" for top speed racing.. I own/ride an R1 now as a bucklist bike and have had her well above 185 (I actually have a video of her bouncing the rev limiter in 5th with another gear to go) now and that was on tires that I balanced the old fashioned way.. I told the manufacturer after testing the beads that I would no way attempt to do that trusting their beads but would trust my own methods for doing so.. Later I did do some testing on the front wheel balancing, this was really interesting to me.. It performed almost exactly like the rear did at slow speeds with just that slight "feel" of imbalance.. At higher speeds it was all about the same UNTIL I played in the twisties here at the house.. It seem,, again IMHO, that the side to side movement in the front wheel combined with movement in the forks up and down played tricks with the beads.. I discovered some real ugliness the more agressive I rode... I did leave the beads in for one good romp out west into the hot tarmac.. Two up,, just CTFW across the desert,, they did ok,, not perfect but knowing what to expect helped a lot.. I did this cause I wanted to see what kind of wear they caused internally of the tire carcuss.. I was pleasently surprised how little wear they caused in the tire and how much wear the beads incurred.. I found the best way to install them was to spoon on the tire, move the bead of the tire to the center after install and before airing up, feed the beads into the tire with a funnel and then stand the tire upright and air it up being careful not to get beads between the bead of the tire and the rim.. Not rocket science but just got watch.. I found pushing them thru the valve stem to be,,, well,, to be way to patience intensive for me..

Go to 5:10 and start there in this vid to see the horse/ag syringe that I would deploy to do the job Lawman.. I have used them for cleaning carbs thru the drains a lot but use to use them a lot for setting fork oil on my dirt bikes back when I was racing and have also used them for doing exactly what you are talking about,, overfill and/or topping off to perfecting everything from crankcase oil to tranny/rear end fluids (takes a lot of time with 90w), radiators and hydraulics too.. Get the big ones that take the big needles so you can use small clear fuel line (usually available at the same ag store but if not, check your local small engine shop) slid over the nipple that the needle screws onto.. Get 10 feet of line (I use to buy it in multiple sizes by the 100ft spool for my dealership) or so, cut it long enough to be able to thread in into the tank as you either suck on the end of the hose lightly (my method) till you feel the oil resisting the air flow thru the tube or hook it onto the syringe and pull a vacuum in the tube as you feed the line in,, when you get resistance just start pulling on the plunger until you get the amount out you need.. Works for me,, try it,, its cheap and it may work for you too.. Puc

I have had good luck with Shinks too,, easy on/easy off, excellent handling tires and decent mileage even in the desert tempts (around 5k miles of hot tarmac riding 2 up and loaded).. I looked and tried for years to get a car tire that would fit my MK1's. Last time was post this discussion with Bill,, thought maybe,, just maybe the one that fit his Wing would fit the 1st Gen MK1 but in the end,, it was a no go.. I do think with some altering of the sub frame on the MK1 I could have made it work but never got that far.. Not sure but my gut tells me you will find the same issue on the MK2 but hey,,, give it a try and let us know what you find out.. Here is my peek at Bills Wing Darksided if it helps:

I know this is looking wayyyy into the tuning tuning crystal ball but, another thing that comes to my mind when talking converting Venture to V-Max is both the TCI/ignition advance modules and also flywheel weight.. I know the cams are different bike to bike but I still wonder if the same could be of the TCI's and flywheel mass.. I have owned and ridden both, have tinkered with the Venture some but very little with the V-Max (couldnt get off it long enough to tinker with it LOL).. Just saying that it wouldnt surprise me one bit to find out that the V-Max has a completely different TCI and Flywheel.. If you have an actual complete V-Max motor top to bottom stuffed into a Venture frame,, there is a possibility that I am correct (there is always that possibility,, it does happen) and you may be missing the TCI and vacuum advance modual it needs to perform correctly.. Also,, @CaseyJ955,,, weren't the exhaust ports on the Max in different location in comparo to the Venture? You got both sitting in your garage? I am working off memory but it sure seems like this was so.. Maybe take a peek if you have both? If so,, Squid it would also be excellent to see what your bike looks like as far as overcoming that obsticle... Wish @zagger would chime in here,, I think his "Frankenstien" chopper has a V-Max top end stuffed into it or,, maybe it was just a V-Boost mod.. Zag? Lots of fun!! Puc

INDEED, gotta go with Zag,, that Mossberg 590 is a fine line of shooters IMHO.. I shot Remington 870 for many many years and love them but,, the Mossy has developed into a cult gun which,, in turn,, sent the aftermarket crazy wild development for trick stuff.. Kind or like the "AR" platform for rifles.. Either way though Spence,, I have used Gunbroker for ever for my shooter needs and have found them to be fairly solid as far as an online auction outlet.. I use a local pawnshop that is an FFL as my ship to and he only charges 20 bucks in or out per gun. Easy peasy as long as your clean.. Dont know about Indiana but Michigan is still functioning under the long gun "gunshow loophole" = can buy/sell person to person with no background = hand em the money and walk away with the shooter.. Problem with times like these is that private sales in news papers and the like seem to be down because of the lack of trust in dealing with the public that has been stirred up.. Our local gun shops are going thru what yours are too,, busy aint the word for it.. Kind of refreshing IMHO.. Gotta love Americans gravitating toward standing on the Constitution and the increase in local business is also appreciated.. You could also be watching local estate auctions for an 870.. One thing nice about the 870, there was a really good barrel selection for them and maybe if you landed one you could just buy the barrel at length you want for it... I grabbed Tip one of the Turkish made auto loaders with pistol grip that fits her wayyyy better than my AR12.. She has been busting clays with it and gotta tell ya,, I am VERY impressed with it.. Not as much fun as my AR12 w/ a 25 round drum feed though, talk about rock n and roll n.. Thinking of selling out my bucket list AR's to up my $$'s for my bucket list Vette project... Got an AR12, AR10 and AR15 with all the fixings.. Binaries for both the 10 and 15, 22lr conversion for the 15,, drum feed for all, sites/scopes/slings/cleaning kits,, plenty of ammo including tracers and penatrators (stuffs over a buck a round now),, usual stuff.. If you hear of anyone looking for a bulk buyout on an AR line let me know.. If I see an 870 sitting at a local gunshop here north of you I will definitely let you know.. Your Fellow Friend of the 2nd Puc

Tweeksis has a full Barnett swap in her,, works great and holds rock solid thru every gear all the way out to redline in each gear with absolutely no slippage even two up with a full on touring load ripping up the biggest of mountain pass.. Only issue I have, other than noting exactly what videoarizona mentions about the stiffer pull than OEM, is that the clutch engagement is moved way out to the end of the clutch lever throw and is not as user friendly for those of us who utilize the friction zone technique for slow riding.. It is still doable but its a much more precise engagement,, sort of like using a micrometer instead of a c-clamp .. Personally,, having been in both worlds,, I would do like Vaz mentions first if I were chasing down clutch slippage issues cause I really like the "feel" of the 1/2 plate buffer OEM clutch setup that can make a pro slowrider out of even a wanna be like me.. IMHO,, Mom Yam was on the right track with the OEM design,, just needed to let Skydoc design the spring rate is all..

From the hip my Brother,, as always,, rock solid truth right from the hip! You earned it Puc

BEAUTIFULLY WRITTEN BROTHER!! As you know,, I am not a "GPS"er BUT,, I found myself in this one my friend!! THANK YOU!! Here's a copy/past of my take that I stuck in the comment section of your review!! I ABSOLUTELY LOVE this amazing detail in your review Mr. Wyenn and instantly found myself ready for the challenge: ""Picture musical chairs for motorcycles. Everyone starts out toward the same destination, knowing that at any moment, the target might be changed for everyone using this immediate-update feature. Do you ride slower or faster because the next objective could be farther in front or behind or to the side? Have three destination changes that everyone would receive at the same time. The first one to the final location wins, just like sitting on the last chair."" I once again applaud your worthy writings and awesome reviews!! Keep em coming!! VERY WELL DONE!! Puc

ROCK AND ROLL!!! That @VentureFar is ALWAYS looking out for his friends I tell ya!! THANKS again my brother this excellent review!! Puc

Awe... See,, now that plastic surgery wasn't that bad was it.. I told ya it could be fixed

Oh man,, always a day late and a Kanuckian Looney short ,, oh well,, never to late for a Puc to wish you lop eared Hockey Stick tossing varmints up there in Kanuckian Land all the very best for a: BEST HAPPY KANUCKIAN DAY EVER!!!!

Oh yeah,, my friend Patch will be proud when he reads this,, on this one I would DEFINITELY do a compression test on

Sounds like you got yourself a real fun project going on there Squid,, lot of good old fashioned in the makings,, gotta love it .. Just to get us on the same page,, at least you and me as I am sure most of these varmints are already in tune with you,,, when I encounter a lean condition it usually shows up in more what would describe as a "bog" than a "misfire".. Generally speaking, misfires are a result of an ignition issue where a bog is due to improper air/fuel on the lean side.. Another thing to smooth out here,, in my limited V-Max experience,, that V-Max thing happening is a direct result of an actual/seeable device that sets between the carbs themselves and the intake manifolds in which the carbs set into on a Venture.. On a V-Max, that device is called a "V-Boost" (again,, from my limited experience) and what it amounts to is an extra set of butterfly valves that open channels hooking the carb throats together so at certain R's (thinkin 6 grandish as I recall - been a while since I had a Max) the single carbs are all of a sudden being combined together.. Those V-Boost butterflys activate off a servo motor.. Another point to ponder is that both the V-Max and the Venture are indeed very airbox/breather sensitive.. My opinion,, and that is all this is, is this is due to the CV carbs that Mom Yam chose to utilize on these bikes.. All this said,, questions remain,, do you know whether or not your bike has the V-Boost system in it? It would be interesting to see how it was fit into the venture frame if so as I am fairly certain,, at least in my untrained minds eye, that the frame must of been altered? May I suggest that you snap some pictures of your scoot and give us all a peek at your project.. Maybe some closeups of the fueling system and exhaust systems as there are differences in both areas that may help us figure out exactly what you have.. I do 100 agree with your summation on the slide diaphram thoughts.. Usually if you loose a diaphram,, or two,, you loose power for exactly the reason you mention.. While I have personally never purchased new ones but chose to repair my old ones thru the years I do know that new ones at much reduced price compared to OEM are available.. I think I remember reading that the ones from the UK (maybe) are the good ones and to stay away from Chinese.. Sirus or something like that comes to my mind for some reason.. If you pull yours apart and they are not seperated from the slides or torn severely make sure to check along the edge of the diaphram where it contacts the carb body very carefully as it is easy to miss a tear in that area.. Very interesting,, sounds like fun,, get us some 's!! Puc

A and a WOWZY WOW WOW WOW she is GORGEOUS brother!! I would name er "Nanner":big-grin-emoticon: and a double :scared:,, make that a triple :scared: and WOWZY WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW for a welcome back my friend!!! Still got those prayers up and thoughts for you as you continue putting a whooping on the cancer Dave!! Have fun out there on the Wing,, she is PURDY!!!! Using some of Arlis from Old Yellers lingo,, that aint no ugly yeller bike,, thats a PURDY yeller bike!!! RIDE ON BROTHER!!!! Puc

Randy has it changed since new? Any alterations in the fuel/exhaust systems since new? If it has gone up since new and no alterations have been made I would be looking for a possible air/vacuum leak.. Even an improperly installed air filter can cause high idle in my limited experience.. I am with you brother,, I would not just ignore it but would definitely bring it up with the dealership and probably want to be informed of what they find when they fix it just in case I could know of something to keep an eye on if needed.. Your also welcome on advice my friend.. One thing I love about this place,, we talk motorcycles

Yeah that was a blast mama... Having all kinds of fun and yakking with the varmints till I got zapped by a storm Fool sent over the pond and my poor little laptop lost connection...