cowpuc

EDITED BY ECK - Please coordinate this thread with this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?117571-Honda-Wing-stuck-in-1st-Gear-a-new-friend-needs-some-input Rationale: There were two threads started on same subject, one in watering hole and one in GW tech. Eck Once again, because of our site I just had the honor and pleasure of meeting yet another GREAT young man named Sam who rides a 2007 Honda Goldwing with a California Side Car Trike conversion. Another one of our members contacted me and asked if I would be willing to contact Sam and see if I could help with a situation he is having with his Trike. Sam is located in California and I am in Michigan so all of the following info and advice has been done over the telephone. After pulling his Triked 2007 Wing into the garage, Sam inadvertently reached up and hit the reverse button on his Trike while the bike was still in 1st gear. As a result, the bike now refuses to come out of 1st Gear and the reverse light continues to flash. Sam has contacted the conversion people and has been unable to this point to figure out a way to solve the jam up.. I suggested removing the fuse for the reversing mechanism, Sam said he had tried that - it did not help and the reverse light on the bike continued to flash. I also suggested leaving the bikes key in the "off" position and rocking the bike while keeping upward pressure on the shift lever to see if he could get it to click back into neutral. I believe Sam said he had also tried this to no avail.. Thinking that the electric reverse probably works like the starter motor on a car, the thought occurred to me that perhaps it has a stuck bendix. Sam mentioned that the Trike will also not currently roll even with the clutch in so, thinking that the reverse motor is probably engaging the rear axle mechanism some how - the stuck bendix idea seems reasonable to me - how about you guys - sound reasonable? My last word to Sam was to see if he would be able to look under the machine, find the reverse "starter" motor and give it a couple raps with a rubber mallet and see if he could jar the bendix loose. That pretty much ended our conversation other than me giving Sam our web address here and directions to the Water Hole so he could follow along with any responses/suggestions that any of you lop eared mechanical genius varmints may have. Sam and I would GREATLY appreciate ANY thoughts/advice/suggestions that any of you fine folks can muster.. A HUGE Thank-You to all from both of us! Puc

:guitarist 2:Now I am actually glad you beat me to it Roller,,,, now you get to be the one to try and defend our unorthadoxed ways PS - Mike from Ohio,, if you were my neighbor and changed your oil at 700 miles I would come over and get your drain oil to use in Tweeks

,,,,:doh::doh::doh:,,,,,,:motorcyclehelmet::motorcyclehelmet::motorcyclehelmet: Me and ol Frosty are the very best of buds, like Daffy, Bugs Bunny and ol Elmer Fuds. I tease em a little but its all in great fun, I would never really shoot em with an icicle gun. I take it all back and now plead the 5th, cause thinking of snow sure makes me writh.. Lets hope this message didn't get out there to slow, if there's one thing I dont need it would sure be more

Sometimes it just SHOCKS me that folks like you and I have made it as far into life as we have brother:big-grin-emoticon: Fast forward to 1.07 on this one DanL'

Good thing I got this bad hand or I would have beat ya that time Roller!!

And I am really out in left field cause, if last seasons riding was "normal" paved road riding, I would just keep riding that puppy till I got to my 3500 miles between oil changes BUT check the site glass to make sure your oil level is good - I usually do this at very frequent intervals anyway. Thinking your looking at about 3 and 1/2 quarts (gonna have to buy 4 quarts and have some left over if you dont at least drain the filter) of oil without the filter to fill it Mike. I wouldnt go by measured quantity no how. I would drain it, fill it to half way up the glass with the scoot standing upright. Run it to temp and recheck it.. I like to run my 1st Gens at 1/2 way (maybe just a tad over) on the site window - seems like if I run em close to a full window I start getting oil aspiration back into my air box.. As far as filters go, I like to swap the filter/oil at same time too but dont always do so. LOTS of times when traveling cross country I will pull the oil in a parking lot (most oil swap places will loan ya catch pan and gladly take the old oil), do a refill like I am talking about and continue on my way. There have many times during the years that I have had filters end up not getting swapped out for a couple oil changes at a time. I gotta say though, I am also a stickler about "color" of my used oil and the environment that I have been riding in.. Dusty two tracks (or riding thru those dust storms out west) reguire more frequent oil changes and, in those circumstances - I ALWAYS swap in a filter too..

May sound nuts but I would double check the little bleed back return hole in the master cylinder to make sure that the clutch fluid is able to return into the res. Its that little tiny hair sized hole... Hmmmm,,, having released the pressure at the slave that probably isnt the issue.... Sure starting to sound like a stuck slave to me too Trader.... While is does not seem likely that a slave would stick like that from sitting there have been stranger things that have happened so I suppose its possible...

I watched a guy accidently pee on an electric fence while I was Pheasant hunting years ago.. Shoulda seen him hop around after coming in contact with that tiny little single wire Silv I still wear rubber gloves when handling live wires and always watch where I peee:cool10:

Welllll, I am no electrician BUT I have been around a few batteries in my life and experimented with other lectrical stuff.. Seems to me that danger increases more as the Voltage increases and its not so much dependent on Amperage as far as overcoming the resistance of the human body.. Not so sure I can see the danger of handling 12 Volt 800 amp car batteries UNLESS the ring on my finger with its low resistance to current flow found a way to ground itself to that + post - YAAAAAOOOOOOOZZZZZZ.. I always looked at it this way,, Voltage is the FORCE or PUSH that causes electricity to over come resistance and amperage is the amount of the flow available or flowing.. On the same token though,, if the battery bank the CEO was playing with were wired in series and it consisted of 20 - 12 volt batteries than yea,, I would be a little nervous about about touching the + lead coming out the end of that puppy...

We in West Michigan dont need it here, Point the nozzles North, South or West and we will CHEER! We want our weather warm and dry, that varmint Fool's antics will make us cry. If he keeps this up with his snowmakin fun, We will POP MD Frosty with an icicle gun!!! NO ,,,,, MOE :225::225::225: :big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

I think the Wiz left some of his special Wizard dust sprinkled on my puter cause I can see that secret message Carl

Think if it were mine Kat I would reach in and smack the side of the rear caliper with a rubber mallet hard enough to be able to feel looseness - so the rear pads are backed away from the rotor a little. Then ride it without hitting the rear brakes and with no chance of brake drag and see if it makes a difference.. I have heard of some 2nd Gens wearing rear pads at an angle with the diagnoses of the rear pig needing to be shimmed to bring it into proper alignment - is there any chance your scoot is one that has this wear sign? Also, you mentioned a weeping seal? IMHO, seals dont always go south just because they get old, sometimes a failing seal is the result of a bearing issue. Because your dealing with u-joints in shaft alignment it is entirely possible that you have a failing U-Joint but, my experience has been vibrations at higher speeds than your talking being the result of a failing u-joint. Noisy U-joints at lower speeds (squeekin) would be more common - IMHO.. Here's a thought,,, wonder if slipping the drive shaft out of the front splines, rotating it 90 degrees, greasing it back up and putting it back in may help.. I have also had some strange vibrations happened at speeds like you are talking about that disappeared with clutch pressure.. Ended up being a bad bearing on the clutch basket shaft.. Do you feel it if the bike is leaning on the side stand and feel it less when you stand the bike up or is this only when the bike is in motion?

Welll he's goin to Topeka Kansas,, Topeka Kansas here he comes,,,,, yea he's goin to Topeka Kansas,,, Topeka Kansas here he come's,, they got some pretty Gen 2 Ventures and he's a gonna, go get him one!!!! Well he dont want no Vision,, no a Vision just wont doo,,, no he dont want no Vision,, seems it shook him thru and thruu, so he's gonna get Venture,, thats exactly what Godlovers gonna do... All the best Godlover,, ride safe my friend and PS,,, dont forget the 's when you get home,,, might as well make friends with the before they have a chance to git cha!!

Indeed, the area that that zerk feeds into is a non-serviced by rear end gear lube oil area. The plug that you pull to put "pumpkin" lube into only fills the pumpkin itself - not the swingarm "tube" that the driveshaft is inside of.. Now all that said and following up with what Marcarl was pointing out, I actually would like to know if anyone has actually pumped enough grease into that cavity thru that zerk that the driveshaft was spinning in grease.. Could be done by pumping and pumping until you could lift the rubber boot up (the one behind the forward bevel gear) and see grease.. Wonder if that rubber boot is sealed good enough that it would keep grease from leaking out when the system got warm from riding.. If it would, this may work great for keeping the U-Joints and splines all running in constant lube and maybe save a lot of wear and tear - sort of simular to a couple old Harley's and a Bultaco I used to have that had a sealed chain system leading to the back wheel so the chain and sprockets actually ran in an oil bath.. Think I might try this on Tweeks this year - if you ride with me this season it might not be a bad idea to ride in front of Tip, Tweeks and I until we see what happens (of course, this may be difficult for you 2nd Gen or Harley riders but that is a whole nother subject )..

Randy and I are thinking the same thoughts here.. As I mentioned earlier, I have found that peanut butter is the best of the best for use in mice traps - THE STUFF WORKS AWESOMELY.. That said, I have also noticed that even the paper towel that I use to clean up peanut butter from my fingers and tossed in the garbage WILL end up getting chewed to bits if there are any mice around - they LOVE the stuff.. One time I had a peanut butter sandwich for lunch while hunting deer. I forgot to toss out the bag I had wrapped the sandwich in after coming home. My old Dodge Aspen ended up having a mouse problem because of that. The critters ended up building a nest in between the headliner and the roof and it STUNK like mice pee all the way to the point of ending up in a junk yard - NASTY NASTY CRITTERS THEM MICE!! Back when I had my shop I kept up the luster on my restored bikes by using Lemon Pledge furniture polish on fiberglass and plastics.. That stuff worked awesome for maintaining waxed surfaces..

You really need to pick up a tube of YamaBond #5 . The stuff is AMAZING for use in exactly what you are facing Huke. I now use it exclusively in any application where rubber and metal are being restored. It is far superior to silicone sealents IMHO. After attempting to repair Diaphrams with many other products I finally found YamaBond #5 . Its sealing capibilities are INCREDIBLE and the seal bonding between rubber/rubber - rubber/metal is second to none. Also, unlike using some other products - it does not dry hard so removing the repair for future repairs is not to bad. If I were wanting to do what you are talking about doing I would clean up the old rubber gaskets real well with carb or brake cleaner. I would also clean the aluminum joining surfaces real well with the same - all that stuff HAS to be oil free and dry.. Then I would take some YamaBond 5 and lightly coat the entire rubber gasket with it (YamaBond 5 is REAL fluidy when first comes out of tube - doing this is simple) - let the gasket dry. Then coat the rubber gaskets sealing joint with a little heavier coat of the 5 and put it together.. A word of advise,, no matter what you use please be caustious about over application. IMHO - you really do not want to end up with any form of sealer being pushed in the cam cavity and finding its way into the oil system - not a good thing..

Of GREAT times together!!

except boiled Okra

:think:,,, :scratchchin:,,, sort like a back flow check valve in a plumbing system? So,, if a diode is used in an A.C. application,, is the voltage always changed from AC to DC on the other side of the diode? And is the diode "rating" basically stating how much current flow it will resist flow to (did say that right?) - so if you have a 3 amp diode it will work as a back flow check valve up to 3 amps of current flow? Are they rated in voltage too - seems like they would have to be? :crackup:you guys may have opened a can of worms by answering my first question

YOU CAN RUN BUT YOU CAN'T HIDE GANDALF!!!!! :big-grin-emoticon:

I have nightmares after reading stuff on here sometimes too Edbo,,,:scratchchin:,, oh wait,, thats not what you were saying:big-grin-emoticon: Glad you found the source of your scoots problems.. I TOTALLY agree with you about how much better these V-4's run when in sync. Tweeks carbs have gotten worn enough that syncing em out at every oil change has become a normal part of lifes experience with the old girl.. They are not usually way out but I like to tinker and its a always a bonding moment between the two of us - she likes to have the attention paid to her.. Also a good way to keep make sure other issues arent happening that may devulge themselves by a wacky reading on a vac gauge.. Good on ya bro for getting that scoot back to V-4 bliss!!

,, not good,,, not good at all Glad you folks are ok Unc,, that stuff can be deadly!! Know exactly what you mean about the wood stove setting off the smoke alarms - dealt with it for years. I found that by placing them in specific areas throughout the house they still worked good and cut down on the false alarms. I put them suckers everywhere - in the attic and in the crawl space too (old house didnt have a basement).. I am as nervous about having a fire as I am of touching electricity Sooooo glad you folks are ok my friend!! Puc

I may have some left over brand new gauze and a pretty cool hand brace in a couple more weeks ... I am still banned from digging in the garage BUT,, when I get back to normal (dont you be starting on me again about that Flyinfool ) I betcha I can find something out there in the old man cave someone will find interesting

That second to the last sentence really helps me a lot.. Ever since my first time thru CPR classes I have always been suspicious of the term "mouth to mouth". Now that I know the original method of CPR I wont be so squeemish about having to give someone mouth to mouth - sure is a much easier concept to grasp then what our ancestors had to deal with back in 42.. As far as testing for live wires with my hands.. Back when I was a kid and riding my 1959 Sears Allstate Moped, I was buzzing around our local high school parking lot after adjusting the carb on my bike when I realized that my throttle had stuck.. I pulled in the clutch, twisted the clutch perch to stick er in neutral (it was a two speed that shifted by pulling in the clutch and rotating the lever), rolled to a stop, got off on the left side of the bike (never dismount your steed on the right hand side - learned that from my cowboy hero's of the day like Little Joe Cartwright and Marshal Dillon), leaned over the gas tank and bent down to remove the plug cap from my iron horses spark plug to stall the engine. About the time my 10 year old fingers came in contact with the metal cap that covered the plug terminal on the little 2 stroke motor of the little 2 horse moped my education into a deeper understanding of the theory of electricity began. The Allstate had no tachometer but I know the crank on the engine was spinning exactly 8,631 times per minute because that number flashed across my eyes where the girls I had been showing off were just a second ago, this may or may not have made me the first non-mechanical electronic tach. The current flow thru my body also caused time to almost come to a stop as I lay there across the gas tank being electricuted. I know this because I felt my legs go straight into a parallel position to the pavement that my Moped was standing perpendicular to. I felt like I had become a human flag of sorts - flapping joyfully in the breeze of endless electrical current flowing gracefully over my entire body. The reason I KNOW that time stood still was because the only thing that caused my hand to loose contact with the spark plug cap was the slamming of my body against the asphalt as the bike fell over which, in hind sight, had to have happened almost instantly but it sure seemed like an eternity to me. Thankfully the current flow thru my muscles had actually tightened my grip on the plug cap and when the bike fell over, the cap came off and my intention of removing the cap and stalling the engine was successful! Had this not have happened my poor little moped may be still be laying out in the parking lot at Fruitport High School revving out at 8,631 RPM.. That day taught me a lot about testing for the presence of electricity. While I, like the Eckster, do still test 9 volt batteries with my tongue (maybe cause it was not my tongue that had touched the plug cap) I have spent most of my entire life making sure I use meters for electrical testing and that the rubber protection on the pliers I am using to hold the meter leads are in as good of shape as the 1/4 inch thick Line-mans gloves that I stole from the Power Companies truck that cover my hands and arms whenever I play with anything over 48 volts AC.. The end

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