cowpuc

Think if it were mine Kat I would reach in and smack the side of the rear caliper with a rubber mallet hard enough to be able to feel looseness - so the rear pads are backed away from the rotor a little. Then ride it without hitting the rear brakes and with no chance of brake drag and see if it makes a difference.. I have heard of some 2nd Gens wearing rear pads at an angle with the diagnoses of the rear pig needing to be shimmed to bring it into proper alignment - is there any chance your scoot is one that has this wear sign? Also, you mentioned a weeping seal? IMHO, seals dont always go south just because they get old, sometimes a failing seal is the result of a bearing issue. Because your dealing with u-joints in shaft alignment it is entirely possible that you have a failing U-Joint but, my experience has been vibrations at higher speeds than your talking being the result of a failing u-joint. Noisy U-joints at lower speeds (squeekin) would be more common - IMHO.. Here's a thought,,, wonder if slipping the drive shaft out of the front splines, rotating it 90 degrees, greasing it back up and putting it back in may help.. I have also had some strange vibrations happened at speeds like you are talking about that disappeared with clutch pressure.. Ended up being a bad bearing on the clutch basket shaft.. Do you feel it if the bike is leaning on the side stand and feel it less when you stand the bike up or is this only when the bike is in motion?

Welll he's goin to Topeka Kansas,, Topeka Kansas here he comes,,,,, yea he's goin to Topeka Kansas,,, Topeka Kansas here he come's,, they got some pretty Gen 2 Ventures and he's a gonna, go get him one!!!! Well he dont want no Vision,, no a Vision just wont doo,,, no he dont want no Vision,, seems it shook him thru and thruu, so he's gonna get Venture,, thats exactly what Godlovers gonna do... All the best Godlover,, ride safe my friend and PS,,, dont forget the 's when you get home,,, might as well make friends with the before they have a chance to git cha!!

Indeed, the area that that zerk feeds into is a non-serviced by rear end gear lube oil area. The plug that you pull to put "pumpkin" lube into only fills the pumpkin itself - not the swingarm "tube" that the driveshaft is inside of.. Now all that said and following up with what Marcarl was pointing out, I actually would like to know if anyone has actually pumped enough grease into that cavity thru that zerk that the driveshaft was spinning in grease.. Could be done by pumping and pumping until you could lift the rubber boot up (the one behind the forward bevel gear) and see grease.. Wonder if that rubber boot is sealed good enough that it would keep grease from leaking out when the system got warm from riding.. If it would, this may work great for keeping the U-Joints and splines all running in constant lube and maybe save a lot of wear and tear - sort of simular to a couple old Harley's and a Bultaco I used to have that had a sealed chain system leading to the back wheel so the chain and sprockets actually ran in an oil bath.. Think I might try this on Tweeks this year - if you ride with me this season it might not be a bad idea to ride in front of Tip, Tweeks and I until we see what happens (of course, this may be difficult for you 2nd Gen or Harley riders but that is a whole nother subject )..

Randy and I are thinking the same thoughts here.. As I mentioned earlier, I have found that peanut butter is the best of the best for use in mice traps - THE STUFF WORKS AWESOMELY.. That said, I have also noticed that even the paper towel that I use to clean up peanut butter from my fingers and tossed in the garbage WILL end up getting chewed to bits if there are any mice around - they LOVE the stuff.. One time I had a peanut butter sandwich for lunch while hunting deer. I forgot to toss out the bag I had wrapped the sandwich in after coming home. My old Dodge Aspen ended up having a mouse problem because of that. The critters ended up building a nest in between the headliner and the roof and it STUNK like mice pee all the way to the point of ending up in a junk yard - NASTY NASTY CRITTERS THEM MICE!! Back when I had my shop I kept up the luster on my restored bikes by using Lemon Pledge furniture polish on fiberglass and plastics.. That stuff worked awesome for maintaining waxed surfaces..

You really need to pick up a tube of YamaBond #5 . The stuff is AMAZING for use in exactly what you are facing Huke. I now use it exclusively in any application where rubber and metal are being restored. It is far superior to silicone sealents IMHO. After attempting to repair Diaphrams with many other products I finally found YamaBond #5 . Its sealing capibilities are INCREDIBLE and the seal bonding between rubber/rubber - rubber/metal is second to none. Also, unlike using some other products - it does not dry hard so removing the repair for future repairs is not to bad. If I were wanting to do what you are talking about doing I would clean up the old rubber gaskets real well with carb or brake cleaner. I would also clean the aluminum joining surfaces real well with the same - all that stuff HAS to be oil free and dry.. Then I would take some YamaBond 5 and lightly coat the entire rubber gasket with it (YamaBond 5 is REAL fluidy when first comes out of tube - doing this is simple) - let the gasket dry. Then coat the rubber gaskets sealing joint with a little heavier coat of the 5 and put it together.. A word of advise,, no matter what you use please be caustious about over application. IMHO - you really do not want to end up with any form of sealer being pushed in the cam cavity and finding its way into the oil system - not a good thing..

Of GREAT times together!!

except boiled Okra

:think:,,, :scratchchin:,,, sort like a back flow check valve in a plumbing system? So,, if a diode is used in an A.C. application,, is the voltage always changed from AC to DC on the other side of the diode? And is the diode "rating" basically stating how much current flow it will resist flow to (did say that right?) - so if you have a 3 amp diode it will work as a back flow check valve up to 3 amps of current flow? Are they rated in voltage too - seems like they would have to be? :crackup:you guys may have opened a can of worms by answering my first question

YOU CAN RUN BUT YOU CAN'T HIDE GANDALF!!!!! :big-grin-emoticon:

I have nightmares after reading stuff on here sometimes too Edbo,,,:scratchchin:,, oh wait,, thats not what you were saying:big-grin-emoticon: Glad you found the source of your scoots problems.. I TOTALLY agree with you about how much better these V-4's run when in sync. Tweeks carbs have gotten worn enough that syncing em out at every oil change has become a normal part of lifes experience with the old girl.. They are not usually way out but I like to tinker and its a always a bonding moment between the two of us - she likes to have the attention paid to her.. Also a good way to keep make sure other issues arent happening that may devulge themselves by a wacky reading on a vac gauge.. Good on ya bro for getting that scoot back to V-4 bliss!!

,, not good,,, not good at all Glad you folks are ok Unc,, that stuff can be deadly!! Know exactly what you mean about the wood stove setting off the smoke alarms - dealt with it for years. I found that by placing them in specific areas throughout the house they still worked good and cut down on the false alarms. I put them suckers everywhere - in the attic and in the crawl space too (old house didnt have a basement).. I am as nervous about having a fire as I am of touching electricity Sooooo glad you folks are ok my friend!! Puc

I may have some left over brand new gauze and a pretty cool hand brace in a couple more weeks ... I am still banned from digging in the garage BUT,, when I get back to normal (dont you be starting on me again about that Flyinfool ) I betcha I can find something out there in the old man cave someone will find interesting

That second to the last sentence really helps me a lot.. Ever since my first time thru CPR classes I have always been suspicious of the term "mouth to mouth". Now that I know the original method of CPR I wont be so squeemish about having to give someone mouth to mouth - sure is a much easier concept to grasp then what our ancestors had to deal with back in 42.. As far as testing for live wires with my hands.. Back when I was a kid and riding my 1959 Sears Allstate Moped, I was buzzing around our local high school parking lot after adjusting the carb on my bike when I realized that my throttle had stuck.. I pulled in the clutch, twisted the clutch perch to stick er in neutral (it was a two speed that shifted by pulling in the clutch and rotating the lever), rolled to a stop, got off on the left side of the bike (never dismount your steed on the right hand side - learned that from my cowboy hero's of the day like Little Joe Cartwright and Marshal Dillon), leaned over the gas tank and bent down to remove the plug cap from my iron horses spark plug to stall the engine. About the time my 10 year old fingers came in contact with the metal cap that covered the plug terminal on the little 2 stroke motor of the little 2 horse moped my education into a deeper understanding of the theory of electricity began. The Allstate had no tachometer but I know the crank on the engine was spinning exactly 8,631 times per minute because that number flashed across my eyes where the girls I had been showing off were just a second ago, this may or may not have made me the first non-mechanical electronic tach. The current flow thru my body also caused time to almost come to a stop as I lay there across the gas tank being electricuted. I know this because I felt my legs go straight into a parallel position to the pavement that my Moped was standing perpendicular to. I felt like I had become a human flag of sorts - flapping joyfully in the breeze of endless electrical current flowing gracefully over my entire body. The reason I KNOW that time stood still was because the only thing that caused my hand to loose contact with the spark plug cap was the slamming of my body against the asphalt as the bike fell over which, in hind sight, had to have happened almost instantly but it sure seemed like an eternity to me. Thankfully the current flow thru my muscles had actually tightened my grip on the plug cap and when the bike fell over, the cap came off and my intention of removing the cap and stalling the engine was successful! Had this not have happened my poor little moped may be still be laying out in the parking lot at Fruitport High School revving out at 8,631 RPM.. That day taught me a lot about testing for the presence of electricity. While I, like the Eckster, do still test 9 volt batteries with my tongue (maybe cause it was not my tongue that had touched the plug cap) I have spent most of my entire life making sure I use meters for electrical testing and that the rubber protection on the pliers I am using to hold the meter leads are in as good of shape as the 1/4 inch thick Line-mans gloves that I stole from the Power Companies truck that cover my hands and arms whenever I play with anything over 48 volts AC.. The end

Hotdog Dinner Emporium

Hey Raft - glad you got that puppy ironed out and no one was hurt brother!! THAT situation can turn ugly really fast!! Here is something from our Read Only Tech section you may find of interest... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?12536-Stranded-with-brakes-sticking-and-heating-up-Read-this All the best! Puc

Lots of really really good advice here Phonetrouble!! Wanna add a couple things.. Any chance you been using regular car oil in your scoot? IMHO - that stuff is disasterous on the clutch plates. Also, another thing that can cause your scoot to develop what you have mentioned, again - IMHO, it what I refer to as "saw toothing". That is an ailment where the clutch plates have worn a small notch in the clutch basket and the plates are not able to move properly across the surface of the basket edge.. Might be worth taking a real close look at the edges when you got it apart to make sure they are not notched a little. Never have had a good clutch in any of my 1st Gen's,, thinking they came stock with weak Clutch springs and that the engineering theory of the 1/2 plate buffer in the clutch basket was not a good idea.. If I were ever gonna actually take an attempt at creating a REAL good clutch that didnt slip even in 4th and 5th gear when the scoot was fully loaded and taching 4 grand when I nailed it, I would ditch the 1/2 plate and get stiffer springs.. Then I would also make sure that I NEVER used energy efficient "car oil" with all its non friendly slippery additives - got a theory of my own that tells me once glazed always glazed and that energy efficient oil can sure glaze a clutch plate..

Acronym (B.H.D.E)

Now ya done did it Jeff,, ya woke me up and perked my interrrest.. If memory serves me from High School lectronics,,,, a diode only allows current flow in one direction,, is that right? If that is right,,, once the alternating current from the alternator on our scoots has been passed thru a diode (rectifier?) isnt it changed forever? Isnt that why everything on our bikes is DC dependent beyond the rectifier?? That point understood - what application would an isolation diode have? Would it be used like a fuse? Not trying to call you out friend,, just looking to learn something

Possible or not Reiny,,, as DanL' has so eloquently pointed out, just having The Wiz give it a shot would probably inspire folks to get out on their scoots and come out for a HOT DIGGITY DOG eatin and rip roaring good ride and a chance to meet some new friends,,,,, and THAT is what its alllllllll about:big-grin-emoticon: :scratchchin:,,,,:think:,,,, on the same token though,, I am not so sure the whole matter is completely out of The Wiz's range of possibilities,,,,, I watched his work first hand and it was down right MAGICAL!!! Hail The Wiz:bowdown: Puc

Hail "The Wiz":bowdown:!! I LOVE IT!! Time for some adjustment to my signature line!!

and,,,,,, if he is the type of varmint who camps,,, he not what we would call a happy camper PS,, let the 1st Gen ?'s begin Dix,, we are here to help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

AWESOME!!! Sounds like you lop eared varmints had a great time - I LOVE putting faces with names too Dix, what a blast!! As far as the pic goes - thank you and this time I:

We'd get some Hotdoggin done all right brother,, probably end up with two non-working computers that even Mr. Wizard himself would have nightmares over. That would be FUN though Carl!! try to be free for the Hot Dog days that the Wiz comes over for will ya Carl? You would make an EXCELLENT test pilot for the Full System Restore thingy that the Wiz may try on Bongo and I!!

OH MY GOSH BROTHER:scared:,, would THAT be a super duper lop eared HOT DOG EATING VR varmint party of a good time Bongo!! Was thinking about it Bob and the thought occurred to me that for the Meet - Greet and Eat Meat that Mr. Wizard attends I was gonna give him top billing in the Water Hole, something like: "PUC'S MEET - GREET N EAT MEAT" "starring this weeks special guest" "Mr. Wizard" "Come watch Mr. Wizard make hot dogs disappear and friendships develop right before your eyes - an event that is guaranteed to send you home as a changed person!! I had even thought about seeing if The Wiz would attempt one of his full system restore's on me during that event.. One of those deals where he waves his magic mouse and I turn into a 30 year younger Pucster.. Tell ya what Bongo,,, you come along and sit next to me when he works his magic - maybe we will both go home changed into :rudolf:'s or something:big-grin-emoticon: You folks are ALWAYS welcome Bongo!!

BEAUTIFUL Eckster:clap2:!! Hats off to whoever suggested that one!!:thumbsup: I use Peanut Butter in mouse traps and it works AWESOME!! Hopefully them rodents dont start knawing on your wheel covers Eckster