cowpuc

WOW ZZZZZZZ WOW WOW WOW - now THATS a dandy brother:thumbsup:!!! I can definitely appreciate the entertainment value you two found by riding that around Key West - those pedestrians had to have been !!! Looks like maybe a 100" Rev Tech ground pounder that would shake even the securest scoop of ice cream off the top of any cone that came within 100 yards of that puppy:big-grin-emoticon:.. Never did get to build anything quite that extreme as far as V-Twin's went,,, I did hang a 10" over Grass Hopper on a hardtail Amen frame with a 59 XLCH HD mag motor one time though.. It was a right hand shift chop that, unlike you and your buddies ground pounder - had more of a tendency to pedestrians than get a out of em..

OUCH MJ - what did you do?

OUTSTANDING ECKSTER AND KONNIE - SOUNDS LIKE YOU TWO ARE HAVING A BALL!!!!!:clap2::dancefool: Wish Tip and I were out there chasing the front wheel - we'd hook up with the two of you and have a Hot Dog with ya's!! You folks are definitely living the dream of all us road warriors sitting at home playing on our computers - looking forward to your next installment and, ,, that that one will have a few 's for us to druel over Drive safe, have fun and keep your eyes peeled for any of those ice cream snitching lop eared varmint Californian brothers and sisters of ours out there - their a little crazy but they are really good people:thumbsup:

I always wondered why those 2nd Gens disappeared so quickly in Tweeks mirrors,, now we find out that they can only be operated up to 3/4 throttle - must of been another Harley encouraging the Feds to slow em down thing or something:missingtooth: :stirthepot: :duck:

Yep,, I went thru the exact same thing a while back Dave,, once you figure it out you will be at how user friendly it is... Probably what you are missing is the location of the "upload" button. If you scroll up on this page and read the top line - you will see the "classifieds" icon. Right below the line that the classifieds icon is in you will see another line that reads left to right icons like - "new posts", "private messages", "FAQ", "calendar" and so on.. If you click on "classifieds" you will be taken to our clubs Classifieds section. When you get there go back and read the smaller second line where the "new posts", "private messages", "FAQ", "calendar" and so on were on this page - when you are in the Classifieds section the small icon for "upload ads" will appear on the far right of that second line.. Click on "upload ads" and it should be self explainitory from there. If you still have struggles with it all, PM me and I will gladly help you get your bikes (WOW what a purdy Ascot too!!) in the Classifieds..

Ditto with DanL.. I would also take a good look at the fork springs (if they are sacked and ready for progessives this can cause it) and freshen up the fork fluid (had a CB1100F that I bought CHEAP cause the PO got into a tank slapper on it at 130 and thats how I cured the issue). Maybe even double check lateral movement in swingarm assembly.. Bottom line, that 1st gen should run/ride happily at 100 and above no problem..

J - here is a link to some pics and an article about the shift segment that is possibly the issue. The last picture is one of the mechanism fully exposed after: draining oil, removal of brake lever/foot peg, clutch assembly cover (round engine case cover - right side if sitting on bike), 6 bolts to remove pressure plate from clutch basket, slip plates out, remove nut from inner hub (where you will need holder Pegasus was talking about), remove assembly and you will be looking at what picture shows here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?40713-Clunky-Shifting

Hey J, personally I would not spend any cash on it until I had some kind of an idea of exactly what I was dealing with. Here are some thoughts and questions to get us all on the same page. 1.Is this bike something you picked up in a non-running condition and are trying to put it together or was it your rideable/running bike that developed these issues? 2.When you mention you have no clutch and that if you start it in neutral, pull in the clutch lever and put the bike in gear it stalls - are you saying that the motor is stalling because it has no clutch disengagement (lurches forward and dies) or does it fall smoothly into gear with the clutch lever pulled in and just stops running like you turned the key off? 3. If you can get the bike up on the center stand do so. It will not hurt anything to spray some lubricant where the shift shaft passes thru the case and move the shaft some to make sure it is not dry to siezure - go ahead do that. With the bike up on the center stand, place your vice grips on the clamp where the linkage screw you mentioned screws into - dont put your vice grips directly onto the splines of the shiftshaft (dont want to damage them), reach back and rock/move the rear tire back and forth while gently pulling on the vice grips in the direction that the shifter would move it into first - you should feel it click into gear and the rear wheel will now have positive stops you will feel as you roll it back and forth. Continue rocking the rear wheel and move the vice grips into neutral, keep rocking and move into second, now try third and on up. If it refuses to go past a gear and into the next one take special note of how many degrees you are moving the vice grips before they stop in rotation. If it seems like they are traveling farther than they traveled when you shifted it into a gear that worked properly this would be a good indicator that the problem is with the shift segment pins, if the vice grips have about the same or a noticeably shorter degree of rotation then the earlier shift that worked - this would be an indicator of a bent shift fork or other possible tranny issue. 4. Depending on what you discover you may or may not want to proceed with a repair. If its the shift segment - not to bad of a job that someone with an average level of mechanical skill and a few metric tools could do.. If its shift forks you may want to reconsider - that would be a pull the motor, split the cases,, definitely a good sized job with above average tools and skills needed. I also highly suspect that you would be well above 1000 dollars in having a shop do such an undertaking - if you could even find a Yamaha shop willing to do the work..

Hi J and to VR!! That shift linkage should be fairly easy to either straighten or find at a bike yard.. It sounds to me like you may have a problem on the shifting mechanism under your clutch. There is a selector cage with pins in it that the shift shaft links to - basically it rotates the shift drum each time you press on the shift lever. Its not totally uncommon for one of the cages little pins to become dislocated which results in the inability to shift gears.. It is also possible that this same cage has just loosened up and needs retighting.. There is an upgrade to the device I am talking about, here is a link to another thread here showing those parts - it is in our "pay it forward" section and I am not sure if you, as a trial member, have access to it but we will try.. It also looks like those parts are still available - maybe ask about them and see if you officially joined our club if the member who owns those parts would work with you if you needed them - just thinking out loud here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?118396-Shift-Cam-Segment-upgrade-for-83-Venture Hope this info helps in some small way and again .. Puc

"Good food, way to much good food! Good company, and a very nice ride in the mountains." and VERY good job on keeping from getting in trouble with the around here brother!! Sounds and looks like you folks are having a BLAST out there - keep those ride stories coming David!!!

That Red,, he's a smart cookie!!!

By the way,, on helping your buddy with his scoot - makes playing with this stuff a whole lot more fun when done with a good buddy!!

Hi Vlad, I am pretty much sure that the shift shaft is supported by a reamed hole in the stator cover (speaking from experience with a 1st Gen here - never worked on a 2nd Gen) and I dont believe there is a replaceable bushing or bearing that supports it.. Help me help you and answer this for me - if you are looking at the oil seal that needs replacing, did you have to remove the stator cover to get at it? If you did, take a peek at the passage thru the stator cover and see if you notice a bushing? Probably not.. If my hunch is correct, it will be necessary to replace the cover (big bucks) to stablize the shaft OR (and I have done this successfully) you could drill out that shaft passage, jump on a lathe and make a replacement bushing for that location OR (and I have done this successfully too) you can pick up some instant bushing making stuff (thinking the stuff I used was made by Loctite) - pick up a shoulder bolt with the same diameter as the O.D. of the shift shaft, clean the cover really well with brake cleaner and a small piece of emery cloth - wrap the bolt with wax paper - slide the wax paper covered bolt thru the shift shaft hole in the cover from the internal side so the bolt is sticking outside of the cover and the head is inside - put a smear of grease on the head of the bolt - enough to keep the Loctite bushing maker from leaking thru, lay the cover down and the bolt head and squirt the loctite in from the outer area, let it dry and pull the bolt out. That loctite is GOOD stuff - its actually not uncommon to use the stuff on actual spinning shafts in industry. With a little effort you should be able to pull the seal without removing the shift shaft (kind of a pain cause you gotta pull it from the clutch side). Drill a couple small holes in the seal and screw in a couple self tapping screws to pull on, slide it off the shaft and slide a new one on. All that said,,, let's let this answer set for while and see if one of these guru's comes along and corrects what I am thinking here... VERY POSSIBLE that what I am thinking is off base a little - not uncommon if that happens

Did you check and see if the plates were tight in the basket after you torqued it down? Almost sounds like you are missing a plate or something. If you got 1/32 of movement out of the pressure plate after tightening the spring bolts up that sounds adequate for clutch disengagement.. Also,, never worked on a single spring Yamaha but I have on some Harley's, the HD singles are concaved springs, any chance your putting the spring in upside down?

Statement!!

@MJ44,,,,,,,,, think Tooch found something that belong's to you.... Tooch,,, if this thread wasn't meant for Mary Jo YOU got a LOT of explaining to do :stirthepot::witch_brew: wonder how fast MJ was going to get that thang parked liked that:bowdown:

W0W ZZZZZZZZZ WOW WOW WOW IS THAT PURRRRDY!!!! Now THAT is some seriously GORGEOUS motorcycling happening there Sleeper,, WOW is that snazzy!! If I were the CEO of Mom Yam I would take the picture you stuck on here,, go running into our next board meeting and say ""look people,,, if those folks over at HMC keep this up we will never catch up - I want each of you to take a longgggg hard look at this color combination and try to "feel" what makes people who see something like this go - then I wanna see something similar using the 1700cc V-4 motor as a build platform - GOT IT PEOPLE? Now GO TO WORK!!!"" :ice_congrats-vi6886:ice_congrats-vi6886:ice_congrats-vi6886:ice_congrats-vi6886 Congrats Sleeper and happy touring on that GORGEOUS new Wing!!!

Hey Dave,,, NICE SCOOT BROTHER!! Just wanted to let you know that your ad is not actually in the classifieds - you might wanna double back, click on the "classifieds" icon on the top line at the top of this page and put it in there so it doesnt get "lost" in the Ebay/Craigs section.. Just an FYI in hopes of helping you with your sale.. She is a DANDY brother - lots and lots of miles of smiles left in that purdy scoot!!

Back toward the end of my dirt riding days I did a fair amount of single track night riding - talk about fun!! This was before the perfection of LED lighting and HID was state of art, all the rage and VERY expensive (700 dollars per light was not uncommon).. I know high output lighting coils (stator) and battery was required to keep those puppies glowing but MAN were they awesome!! I also know that current LED lighting has an advantage by demanding far less amperage than the HID's reguired back then. Personally, I would check the amp draw on those HID's brother and see just how much of a strain they are putting on the system and make my call from that perspective. Lower amp load means easier on the system and a cooler running scoot too.. If it's reasonable, I would keep em and enjoy them after getting them rewired to your liking...

SO GREAT TO HEAR FROM YOU Z - Thank you for the update brother!! Right there with you my friend - THANKFULLY it all happened at the time of day that it did!!! So sorry to hear about the loss of your belongings and triple that about the loss of your pets - talk about heartbreaking!! Thank GOD you are all ok!!! Godspeed as you work thru it all, if there is anyway we can help PLEASE let us know!

I LOVE the way you think Yamagrl!!

GREAT to hear from you Z!! Been thinking of and praying for you folks, soooo glad to know you are all ok my friend!! Godspeed as you all progress thru the situation out there - sharing in your tears brother!!

INDEED TOOCH - that has that certain "Chopper" appeal to it doesn't it:178:!! I LOVE IT!! That thing would be a RIOT at that Oberlin MD - after dusting off all the tents and bikes a guy could easily putt over the pond and go pond monster hunting without the worries of getting nipped by one .. I can see LOTS of other uses for it, seeding and fertilizing the lawn would be a breeze - just toss a good mix into the blades,,,, snow blowing would no longer be a dreaded chore, even cleaning gutters would be a BLAST!! What a COOL contraption!!:cool10::guitarist 2:

WOW ZZZZZZZZZZ WOW WOW WOW ZZZ WOW WOW WOW - NOW THAT PUPPY IS ONE GORGEOUS MOTORCYCLE!!!!!:dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: Catch my breath here,, WOW,,, someone REALLY went all out on that sweetheart - just beautiful!! Looks like a brand new bike with all the fixins - man is that purdy:178:!!!! You sure know how to pick em Boss:happy34:!! Would love to meet the previous owner of that scoot and shake his hand - definitely our kinda folk - was he by any chance a member here Don? Personally, I LOVE the looks of that seat, definitely has a classy eye catching appeal to it - dont believe I have ever seen one like that - gotta admit though, it doesn't look as comfy as some of these "pillow top" seats I have seen around - would that be the Corbin type Don? What is that little LED looking strip below the cruise on/off switch - the one with the little numbers stamped below it Chief? :ice_congrats-vi6886:ice_congrats-vi6886:ice_congrats-vi6886:ice_congrats-vi6886 my brother on the fantastic find,, as usual - you done good Bossman!!!:thumbsup: PS,, this is my FAVORITE picture of you and your new scoot followed by a song that popped into my head when I first looked at it!!

Those blinker light bulbs/sockets are probably single wires unlike most tail/brake light bulbs (1157's). If they are, I have used small single wire lights like that for tail/brake light applications by wiring in a pull switch and a resistor. All I did was picked up a little higher wattage bulb then the original one, put the resistor inline with with the running light circuit and brought the brightness of the bulb back to normal, then I ran a wire off the running light circuit ahead of the resistor and down thru the pull switch and up to the other side of the resistor so when the switch was made the current flow was going around the resistor instead of thru it and VOOWALA = BRAKE LIGHT at a cost of about $1 for a resistor and a few bucks for the switch.. I am sure the same thing could be done fairly easily to do what your talking of. In your case you may have to add a diode in to keep current from back flowing in the blinker system.. Now lets see if any of our electrical engineer genius types join in here and smack me for even suggesting such a thing