cowpuc

Yes.... Definitely and most assuredly yes.... "What's worse than having a cat caught in a tree?",,, Answer: "having TWO cats caught in a tree"!!!:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to:Im not listening to

Hi Rodney.. Dont know nothing about exactly how that springy thingy goes back together but can say that it appears it should set let it is and match up with the notch protrusions on the cable wheel.. Thinking it should face in which ever direction the cable spool rotates as you twist the go grip - it should wind up as you twist the throttle open and assist in closing the throttle - ,, make sense? Probably,,, maybe,,, but only if your one of those lop eared varmints who have figured out how to talk Puc talk around here Allllll that and that isnt really even the main reason I responded here:rotfl:.. My main reason was that I wanted to share with you that I have used these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mr-Luber-Cable-Lubing-Lube-Tool-For-Lubricating-Clutch-Brake-Throttle-Cables-/171873433886?hash=item280474791e:g:9C8AAOSwqu9VJYPU&vxp=mtr For many many years on my scoots - have worn out lots of em!! Tweeks has over 300k on her and never had a cable replaced (KNOCK ON MY WOODEN HEAD) because of this little gadget. Its very affective in both resurrecting old cables and keeping new cables like brand new.. I tried using Dry Slide (graphite) and the like thru the years and honestly,, found that tacky bicycle chain lube to last longer and work better.. It can be a little harder to work with because of its stickiness during clean up BUT - carb cleaner works GREAT to assist in that.. Just something to think about if you havent already thought about it or aren't already using a Luber.. Best be getting that gorgeous 2nd Gen or yours finished - MD is coming and so is summer!!:guitarist 2::guitarist 2:

Barry,, isnt your Wing this same color combo?? I know Mike's (Brake Pad) was White but it seemed like yours was something like this color combo... Guess I could just look in my millions of pictures and find out,,,,,,,,,, if I weren't soooo dog gone lazy these days... I KNEW I wasn't losing it and that I had seen that GORGEOUS color combo before Gary:thumbsup:...

Skidder,, it's entirely possible that someone added extra springs to the deck belt tensioner in a valiant attempt to hold the belt on and that is where your xtra springs came from - not an uncommon notion.. Also possible that they came from other "idler pulleys" associated with the deck belt that goes around the blade pulleys, clutch or even the drive belt that goes back to the tranny/axle. Look closely at all associated belt systems and if there was a spring attached to any of those idlers you should see a tell tale sign of such (holes or notches). Also could be that your relative had a child helping them when they last worked on it and the child was playing with the springs and just left em laying on the deck when he/she was finished helping - this has happened to many parents over the years!!

Another thought,, its not uncommon for the fork tube bushings under the fork seals to get worn out of spec.. Sometimes, but not always, this wear will show up in seals leaking fluid.. Lots of times those bushings are overlooked in the seal replacement process.. Wear in those bushings will result in the tubes being able to move in the fork leg enough to cause some pretty strange feeling steering charactoristics and could easily be what your dealing with..

Sheeshhh DanL,, you and your quick draw Magraw act has even got the Chipmunks skeerd to move !!:guitarist 2:

Thanks Lar! Any chance you recall what the "CH" in the "XLCH" stood for? I ALWAYS loved the XLCH's,, they always seemed to have that little bit of extra umphhh about em and their name reflects that fact.. Oh yea,, BIG DOG was a premier manufacturer and that 107 was a goer!! Kind of sad how the market on those big Chops died off BUT it was fun while it lasted brother!! Beautiful scoot Dave and, being a softail - VERY RIDEABLE!!

Ohhhh the joys of being on two tires and having 50% of them decide they dont wanna play no more !! THANKFULLY :clap2: you kept her upright and got it stopped without going down Gez - GOOD ON YA BROTHER!! Also glad to hear you were able to get her back home safely my friend!! I have always wondered about the kind of stuff your talking about concerning the tow companies. While not exactly one of my favorite memories of touring cross country on a scoot - I have also experienced flat tires on several occasions and sometimes they have occurred in some pretty remote area's. At times like those I always wonder how long it would take one of those tow companies to come to the rescue if you were lost in the mountains of Montana and had no idea where you were

,,, may take a shot at that Chat thing myself there Bongo,,, I pretty much got Mama's Pizza and 5 pound Bacon Sandwich worked off from the last time I showed up PLUS I could probably come up with a bike question or two too:think:.... Could also be a way to meet a few more new friends by the sounds of things..

So THAT'S what happened? I was wondering about that!!! About the same time Bum sent in his $15.20 Kanuckian Kash I felt a cold breath of air blow across my neck - thought I was going senile or something but no sireee - just one of those 3 mouthketeers getting ready to torture us for another year :rotfl:

Right there with ya Boss,,, that way if the thieves decide they are gonna rob me before a fire does they will have a hard time carrying off my "safe".. Just an FYI,, our local bank gives a free lifetime safe deposit box with their new accounts - might be worth checking with banks in your area!!

,, well shake me silly, rattle my cage and call me crazy if ya gotta but put ME on the list of those who really really do care!!! WHAT AN AWESOME TRIP YOU GUYS GOT PLANNED THERE BROTHER!!!:clap2::dancefool::dancefool::thumbsup:!!! I can not WAIT to follow along on this one - living life thru your experience bother!!! :think:You guys gonna be camping along the way or you planning on Moteling? :lightbulb:It would a BLAST to plan a "Pucs Meet - Greet and Eat Meat" somehow to coincide with your ride plans.. Give us a chance to see you and your group off in a royal fashion!! Is the route thru the lower peninsula of Michigan you show on your trip plan going to be at the start of your epic ride or at the end Dave? LOOKS AWESOME TOOCH - CONGRATS,,, RIDE SAFE AND HAVE A BALL OUT THERE!!

Gary,, you may find some benefit in browsing thru post 19 in this thread.. Just a thought..

1.Is this bike something you picked up in a non-running condition and are trying to put it together or was it your rideable/running bike that developed these issues???? 2. I am now assuming that your stalling problem is a yes answer to ""are you saying that the motor is stalling because it has no clutch disengagement (lurches forward and dies)""? 3. I am now assuming that the tranny will go thru ALL the gears by rocking the back wheel and hand shifting it? If all the above is so, I would recommend changing your oil out to a 20w50 Diesel or Motorcycle Oil (really doesnt matter what brand - SuperTech from Walmart will do fine IMHO) - do an oil filter too. I have found a lot of stickiness in shifting can be mitigated by a good oil base to begin with.. Now remove the cover on your clutches master cylinder - what color is the fluid? If its darkened at all or,,, if it hasn't been swapped in a year or so just swap it out. Before you do though, get the res as close to level as possible, gently pump the lever to the point that the tiny return hole in the bottom of the res is returning fluid - it takes very little movement on the lever to get a little flow - gentleness and smoothness is key. Watch carefully while you doing this and see if you notice tiny little air bubbles in the the fluid - if you do this is probably where the clutch disengagement issue is found.. Even the smallest amount of air in hydraulic fluid will cause issues - take the time and get the air out. It's not uncommon for this to take an hour or more of time to get all the air out - patience is a virtue!! After all the air is out and you have a good clutch feel, remove the little rubber cover down on the slave (its right above the shifter). Crack the bleed nipple on the slave open with an 8mm deepwell, finger tighten it but make sure you can open it with your finger pinch, slip the end of a 6' section of clear gas line ( the CHEAP stuff) over the nipple (if memory serves - 1/4" ID line is perfect), drap the line upwardly and pinch it between the lid of the trunk and the base of the trunk to hold it upright. Get as much of the old fluid out of the res as possible but leave enough to cover the orvices in the bottom, refill the res being careful not to create bubbles in the fluid when you dump new in (if you have little bubbles on the refill DONT move the lever till they have worked out of the fluid, you should be able to pinch the hose now and open the nipple with the hose staying attached to it - squeeze the lever to bottom and hold it - close the nipple - release the lever - open the nipple - squeeze the lever and keep doing this (keep the hose attached and leading upwardly so fluid is remaining against the nipple end and no air can back bleed into the slave, also keeping the res filled with fresh fluid) until the clear hose is filling with clear fluid - also watch the fluid in the hose for air bubbles. When you get clear fluid in the hose tighten the nipple, fill the res just above the glass window, reset the rubber seal on the res lid - put it together.. Now take it out and ride it, even if I had to shift with the vice grips for a short time - I would put a hundred miles on it or so and see if you dont recoginze a significant change in stickiness on the shifting and clutch activation.. If what I am thinking solves the issue - you may just have yourself with a scoot with THOUSANDS of great miles stored up for you!!

Connaisseur:fatsmiley:

WOW ZZZZZZZ WOW WOW WOW - now THATS a dandy brother:thumbsup:!!! I can definitely appreciate the entertainment value you two found by riding that around Key West - those pedestrians had to have been !!! Looks like maybe a 100" Rev Tech ground pounder that would shake even the securest scoop of ice cream off the top of any cone that came within 100 yards of that puppy:big-grin-emoticon:.. Never did get to build anything quite that extreme as far as V-Twin's went,,, I did hang a 10" over Grass Hopper on a hardtail Amen frame with a 59 XLCH HD mag motor one time though.. It was a right hand shift chop that, unlike you and your buddies ground pounder - had more of a tendency to pedestrians than get a out of em..

OUCH MJ - what did you do?

OUTSTANDING ECKSTER AND KONNIE - SOUNDS LIKE YOU TWO ARE HAVING A BALL!!!!!:clap2::dancefool: Wish Tip and I were out there chasing the front wheel - we'd hook up with the two of you and have a Hot Dog with ya's!! You folks are definitely living the dream of all us road warriors sitting at home playing on our computers - looking forward to your next installment and, ,, that that one will have a few 's for us to druel over Drive safe, have fun and keep your eyes peeled for any of those ice cream snitching lop eared varmint Californian brothers and sisters of ours out there - their a little crazy but they are really good people:thumbsup:

I always wondered why those 2nd Gens disappeared so quickly in Tweeks mirrors,, now we find out that they can only be operated up to 3/4 throttle - must of been another Harley encouraging the Feds to slow em down thing or something:missingtooth: :stirthepot: :duck:

Yep,, I went thru the exact same thing a while back Dave,, once you figure it out you will be at how user friendly it is... Probably what you are missing is the location of the "upload" button. If you scroll up on this page and read the top line - you will see the "classifieds" icon. Right below the line that the classifieds icon is in you will see another line that reads left to right icons like - "new posts", "private messages", "FAQ", "calendar" and so on.. If you click on "classifieds" you will be taken to our clubs Classifieds section. When you get there go back and read the smaller second line where the "new posts", "private messages", "FAQ", "calendar" and so on were on this page - when you are in the Classifieds section the small icon for "upload ads" will appear on the far right of that second line.. Click on "upload ads" and it should be self explainitory from there. If you still have struggles with it all, PM me and I will gladly help you get your bikes (WOW what a purdy Ascot too!!) in the Classifieds..

Ditto with DanL.. I would also take a good look at the fork springs (if they are sacked and ready for progessives this can cause it) and freshen up the fork fluid (had a CB1100F that I bought CHEAP cause the PO got into a tank slapper on it at 130 and thats how I cured the issue). Maybe even double check lateral movement in swingarm assembly.. Bottom line, that 1st gen should run/ride happily at 100 and above no problem..

J - here is a link to some pics and an article about the shift segment that is possibly the issue. The last picture is one of the mechanism fully exposed after: draining oil, removal of brake lever/foot peg, clutch assembly cover (round engine case cover - right side if sitting on bike), 6 bolts to remove pressure plate from clutch basket, slip plates out, remove nut from inner hub (where you will need holder Pegasus was talking about), remove assembly and you will be looking at what picture shows here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?40713-Clunky-Shifting

Hey J, personally I would not spend any cash on it until I had some kind of an idea of exactly what I was dealing with. Here are some thoughts and questions to get us all on the same page. 1.Is this bike something you picked up in a non-running condition and are trying to put it together or was it your rideable/running bike that developed these issues? 2.When you mention you have no clutch and that if you start it in neutral, pull in the clutch lever and put the bike in gear it stalls - are you saying that the motor is stalling because it has no clutch disengagement (lurches forward and dies) or does it fall smoothly into gear with the clutch lever pulled in and just stops running like you turned the key off? 3. If you can get the bike up on the center stand do so. It will not hurt anything to spray some lubricant where the shift shaft passes thru the case and move the shaft some to make sure it is not dry to siezure - go ahead do that. With the bike up on the center stand, place your vice grips on the clamp where the linkage screw you mentioned screws into - dont put your vice grips directly onto the splines of the shiftshaft (dont want to damage them), reach back and rock/move the rear tire back and forth while gently pulling on the vice grips in the direction that the shifter would move it into first - you should feel it click into gear and the rear wheel will now have positive stops you will feel as you roll it back and forth. Continue rocking the rear wheel and move the vice grips into neutral, keep rocking and move into second, now try third and on up. If it refuses to go past a gear and into the next one take special note of how many degrees you are moving the vice grips before they stop in rotation. If it seems like they are traveling farther than they traveled when you shifted it into a gear that worked properly this would be a good indicator that the problem is with the shift segment pins, if the vice grips have about the same or a noticeably shorter degree of rotation then the earlier shift that worked - this would be an indicator of a bent shift fork or other possible tranny issue. 4. Depending on what you discover you may or may not want to proceed with a repair. If its the shift segment - not to bad of a job that someone with an average level of mechanical skill and a few metric tools could do.. If its shift forks you may want to reconsider - that would be a pull the motor, split the cases,, definitely a good sized job with above average tools and skills needed. I also highly suspect that you would be well above 1000 dollars in having a shop do such an undertaking - if you could even find a Yamaha shop willing to do the work..

Hi J and to VR!! That shift linkage should be fairly easy to either straighten or find at a bike yard.. It sounds to me like you may have a problem on the shifting mechanism under your clutch. There is a selector cage with pins in it that the shift shaft links to - basically it rotates the shift drum each time you press on the shift lever. Its not totally uncommon for one of the cages little pins to become dislocated which results in the inability to shift gears.. It is also possible that this same cage has just loosened up and needs retighting.. There is an upgrade to the device I am talking about, here is a link to another thread here showing those parts - it is in our "pay it forward" section and I am not sure if you, as a trial member, have access to it but we will try.. It also looks like those parts are still available - maybe ask about them and see if you officially joined our club if the member who owns those parts would work with you if you needed them - just thinking out loud here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?118396-Shift-Cam-Segment-upgrade-for-83-Venture Hope this info helps in some small way and again .. Puc

"Good food, way to much good food! Good company, and a very nice ride in the mountains." and VERY good job on keeping from getting in trouble with the around here brother!! Sounds and looks like you folks are having a BLAST out there - keep those ride stories coming David!!!