cowpuc

I always enjoyed the searching and finding them as much as riding em... ALMOST,, I SAID ALMOST!

Might help..

Ahhh ha! Book diagram shows that piece held in check by a "Stopping Pin" and just says to "remove the pin and remove the "water jacket joint".. If you have already removed a roll pin from the hole I was thinking may have a set screw in it Riv - I am thinking you are fighting O-rings as a parts picture of that plastic joint does show it is o-ringed..

Heyyyy,, wait a second here,,, whats that big allen head plug for right above the piece we are talking about? Maybe pull that plug or what ever it is and see if that solves the removal problem..

Looking great Riv!!!:clap2::dancefool: As far as the valve spring thoughts I was thinking about - I was just thinking that if the V-Max has heavier spring pressure to keep the valves from floating or to assist in valve closure due to a different cam profile the stiffer springs would put additional pressure on the cam chain. This additional pressure may not be the best thing on a chain that is already showing signs of wear.. The reason I thought it was probably a mute subject is that checking the cam chain would be a good idea anyway.. I know,, sometimes I :Im not listening toto much,, but you have been around me enough now to already know that .. On to that piece that is blocking the cam chain from coming free.. Looking at the pics,,, is there any chance that it is held in by a snap ring or,,, is that small hole I see above the boss that the piece channels into by any chance a set screw hole? Take a sharp pic (no ya lop eared varmint - not talking about a this time,, talking about a pic like a dental pic ) and scrape around in that hole and see what ya find.. Also may take the same pic and scrape around the edges of the piece and clean it up as good as possible. Maybe those channel pieces are o-ringed in and your fighting against o-rings.. Will take a peek in my manual and see if it mentions them.. Also,, are you sure that is plastic and not steel? If its steel - maybe some heat will unsettle it.. Another thought - take a look at your V-Max heads and see if your gonna have to reuse them (the pieces) on install.. If not,, your gonna hate me for saying this probably,,, I wouldnt let em stand in my way,,, if it became obvious that they are siezed in - I would just grab my 16 inch channel locks and make em do what I want them to do

= SWEET LOOKIN BLONDE THERE CASEY!! She's got a lot of extra bling if your into such things - plus she does have back rest, passenger arm rests (NICE) and boards, looks like trailer hitch if your into such things - lot of extras.. Concerning the CLASS system mentioned by you and also on Craigs - I personally would prefer the manual air up system as long as it maintained air pressure - have used em for thousands of miles and always appreciated the simplicity.. Also keep in mind - if the scoot does not already have Progressive springs in it (staring at the picture on Craigs here - it either does have Progressives or they have 10 pounds of air in the forks) the new buyer will want to drop a set in cause OEM springs are,, IMHO - not much more than ink pen springs .. Once the Progressives are in - no more fork air is ever needed again so now its just the rear shock that air supply is needed for.. Concerning the voltage drop - while possible to be a stator issue - also sounds suspictiously like a dirty battery connection of maybe even a bad stator terminal (located under left side cover on frame spar).. Tell ya what ya could do - deduct a 100 bucks for Progressives and be happy you aint gotta fight a Class problem, deduct $250 for a stator job = offer em $1700 cash for it (be standing there with the money in your hand - sometimes that helps ) and see what he says... Before ya do that though, spit check (like checking a hot iron) the header pipes on it right after starting it and make sure she's hitting on all four.. These good ol bikes have fooled many buyers with their ability to run amazingly well on 3 cylinders.. TOTALLY with ya on the 3k and up getting ya into a 2nd Gen (the HD look alike).. They are out there if a guy shows a little patience. So,, you live in the Black Hills?? I LOVE THE BLACK HILLS!! You anywhere near Spear Fish Canyon - or have ridden that area?? There is section of two tracks that goes from the little water falls located on the gravel road that heads west from the Lodge down in Spear Fish canyon.. Followed that one time - got lost - camped in those mountains - listen to Elk all night (BEAUTIFUL) - kept going west on two tracks - passed a 2' sign that said "Wyoming" on it - came out in a little town on the side of the Highway just a few miles from Devils Tower - rode over to the Tower.. I LOVE THE BLACK HILLS!! Sorry - rattled me when I noticed you lived in the Black Hills... Anyway,, your welcome on the Adhuntr suggestion - all the best in locating your scoot!! Puc

COOL!!!:dancefool: YOU are more than welcome on the advice brother - ANYTIME!! Want some more ?? I just noticed something, our V-4's have non-Hyvo roller chain on the cams.. Cause I love ya Riv and in the spirit of trying to be a helping hand to my friend (not trying to cause you any kind of grief) I think will say something.. If I were going to all the work you are and seeing what I see now - I would carefully check for movement between the links and in the rollers on the cam chain once I had the cams out and the chain relaxed. I would pull the chain taut between my finger and then bend it back and forth against the pins and see how far it would move and watch for movement in the pin bushings. I would also do the same thing only instead of using the bend test - pull hard and relax the chain and watch/feel for any play.. I would do both tests AFTER cleaning the chain good with carb or brake cleaner really good so I knew I wasnt fighting against oil inside the rollers or bushings while checking it (and dont forget to prelube the cam chain during the rebuild process).. No idea if those V-Max heads have stiffer valve springs (wouldnt be surprised - with the higher red line) but if they do,,,, never mind - its irrelavant,, if the cam chain shows play I would take the time to drop a new chain in it and new guides/rollers.. There Riv - that'll teach ya to encourage my nonsense THIS IS WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY FUN - THANKS FOR INCLUDING US YOUNG MAN!!!

Also, I wonder if you may have gotten some kind of a virus.. You may find doing a system restore will help or maybe even reinstall your operating system.. Speaking of virus stuff - might not be a bad idea to back up all your pics and documents before you get to involved here.. Loosing all that stuff is NEVER fun!!

Larry, if you follow the above pathway you will eventually come to a window that tells all about your "modem" - in that window will also be a "driver folder"..

Just a guess but I DO love to participate in guessing games when it comes to diagnosising stuff like this (should make a poll out of this Riv - we also LOVE polls!!) I am gonna guess you have two intake valves that have corrosion on them from sitting while in the open position.. I have ran into that many times building chops and doing restores on old scoots who the PO's had lost interest in. Always surmised that the alcohol used in fuels had a tendency to not leave much of protective coating on valve faces and corrosion starts pretty quickly. Many years ago I also did Lawn and Garden repair work - took a sparkplug apart - drilled the center out of it and screwed a shrader valve into it. I could than insert this homemade contraption into a plug hole, spin the blade so the valves were closed and was able to show my customers in a matter of minutes whether their equipment issue was valve related - whistling thru the valves = valve job,, hit em with 20 PSI. I know the plug arrangement on our scoots prohibits doing such a crazy thing on our scoots but I cant help but wonder if you could borrow the tester hose off your compression tester and do something similar.. Just a thought.. Same token though,,, gotta all come apart anyway,, leave the motor on the stand - pull the tappet covers and check the valve clearances - if ya got a couple tight ones ya know the valves have worn to shim time - if ya got a couple way loose, ya know ya got some corrosion holding the valves open.. Nuff of my ,,,, "Do you experts agree or have I possibly missed something in my evaluation?" =

Oh yea - THANKS FOR THE Vaz - you da man brother!!

Gorgeous scoot David - hope the owner finds us here, joins the fun and lets us know who he is.. I always liked the looks of the 1st Gen conversions - they sure make a good looking trike.. Was browsing Craigs and noticed a Blue one just like that out in Jersey for 4 grand - still wondering what brand of conversion it was (not much of an explanation in the ad) - perhaps if this guy joins us he can give us all those wonderful details and even more!!!!

Hi Casey and You could do a little search at "adhuntr.com" which searches all of Craigslist nationwide. Just search Yamaha Venture and lots of scoots will pop up. Prices do seem to vary a lot across the country with "NADA" not really being much of a deciding factor (as you have found). Might not be a bad idea to stay away from the MK1's (83/85) as they tend to be more problematic (2nd gear issue and more). The MK2's (86/93) are probably what you will be looking for and it should not be difficult to find a good one in the 2500 dollar range. We have a classifieds section that has a number of them listed and you can peek at it here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showcat.php?cat=1 Even being MK2's you need to remember your looking at an older bike. Fork springs sack over time, carb diaphrams pin hole and tear over time, calipers stick and on and on and getting one up and running correctly if it hasnt been properly maintained can get pricey - especially if you are not going to spin your on wrenches.

Yep,, your right Larry - I missed that point when I first read your post. If the laptops are working fine than its probably not your router. If you click on Control Panel in your program menu - then click on Device Manager and then click on Modem you should see your wireless adapter listed there. Click on the wireless adapter and you should see a window that will tell you if the adapter is working properly.. Maybe your adapter somehow got disabled.

I have DSL and have had very similar - matter of fact EXACTLY that problem on lots of occasions. Does the "Internet" light on the router appear on with a little green light or is it red? Most times turning off the router and unplugging it for 10 seconds and then plugging it back in and turning it back on reboots the router and takes care of the problem Lar. If that doesnt do it, it is entirely possible that your internet connection between the router and the provider could be interrupted. I am currently having those problems and have been told it has to do with the current rains - I have a tech coming in a week or so to check ours.. Anyway,, I would try the old turning the router off and then back on again - worth a shot.. All the best! Puc

OUTSTANDING - wishing you and your wife nothing but the funnest, nicest and greatest adventure EVER Addy!!!:clap2: :scared::scared::scared: - we live RIGHT on your pathway Northward if you folks are gonna follow the Shoreline. Addy - any idea when you might be passing thru the Muskegon area? We are about 2 minutes from Muskegon State Park (located on the North side of the channel) and right at the very beginning of THE BEST riding headed North in Michigan!! We would love to some how say howdy to you both!! We also have plenty of space for you to camp in our yard, have a spare bedroom if needed, have tools if you have problems ect. ect. ect and so on and so forth.. Maybe an emergency MGnEM is in order:scared: Addy,, you got any idea of when ya might be where ya might be or you two just driften? Looking forward to seeing some pics and hearing some trail tales brother!! RIDE SAFE AND HAVE FUN!! Puc

AWESOME STORY AND 's MIRIDER AND NAVIGATOR SUE!! JUST BEAUTIFUL!! THAT is some gorgeous area up there for sure!! Glad you folks had a great time and THANK YOU for posting this up!!

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that: And you Bongo are the BEST of THE BEST at being supportive in ALL you do brother and highly appreciated - ALWAYS!!:thumbsup:

Battery

My MK1's have always been sensitive to oil's and oil changes in the feel of the tranny operation Beast.. Fresh oil = smooth shifting and all that.. Matter of fact, after years of riding em I can pretty much "feel" oil change time in the tranny - crazy I know but it really is so.. Guess the first question is - how long ago was your last oil change.. Next is - what weight of oil is this "T6"? I run Rotella 15/40 a lot in the cooler weather of fall n spring here in Michigan - non synthetic = usually good for 2500 to 3000 miles before it looses its viscosity and can "feel" the tranny getting sticky.. I know, by the book,, Yamaha specs 20-40 for summer temps but I have found 20-50 for western desert riding or temps above 90 here in Michigan. 20-50 will usually get me up to around 3kish miles before loosing its viscosity to heat and stickiness returns.. I use a lot of Super Tech Wall Mart oils or even the stuff from our Dollar Store - most if not all is for Diesel Motors - stay away from High Energy car oil myself.. Have had really good luck with straight up Dino.. Also be curious to know what "upgrade" your speaking of.. You do complete basket swap? If not,, I wonder if your basket is saw toothed and not getting full movement on the plates.. Any chance you inspected the "ears" the fibers slide on when your clutch is disengaged. If the basket is grooved or "saw toothed" as it were - this can prevent the plates from fully separating and the loss of viscosity in the oil as it heats up can cause what your talking about = more info needed on your upgrade.. Also possible is either air in your hydraulic clutch system or a bad spot in the master cylinder - either can create a similar situation to that of saw teething on the basket..

ahh ohh Tooch,,,, thinkin x2 Trouble didnt know cow pie is gender sensitive

If at all possible - health wise - Tip and I are planning on riding out and back... Will post up on your thread here if we do Rick - WOULD LOVE TO SAY HOWDY OUT ON YONDER PRAIRIE!!

Hey Greg,,, and WE are glad to have you aboard:thumbsup:!!! Its always a pleasure chatting with and making friends with "new" members - ALWAYS!! Whats its all about around this joint - IMHO.. I personally thank you for your kind words my friend and would like to join you in your thankful spirit (also been helped by this bunch of lop eared varmints many many times over) - this place is really amazing and a fun place to hang out. Probably sounds crazy but, to me, a big part of what makes that so seems to be found somewhere between those that are so willing to help and those that receive that assistance and are openly willing to acknowledge and say "thank you" like you so eloquently did... Thanks for the spirit of a true grateful attitude! Puc

HOKEY SPAMOKEY @stanG :scared::scared: Stang (maybe we should nick name you Sting now that you, THANKFULLY, made it through that ordeal) - just read your bee sting story to Tip and we are both :scared::scared: and so happy/thankful to hear from you brother - THAT WAS A CLOSE ONE!!! Talk about scary stuff my friend ... SOOOOOO GLAD YOUR OK BROTHER!!

Might be thinking of "Chem-Clean",, = GOOD STUFF!! Did an experiment one time using "Chem-Clean", spray carb cleaner from Auto Zone, Sea Foam and Tech Tron injector cleaner. Took a bank of carbs in really nasty shape from an old 750 Honda that had been left setting with the tank about half full and the pet cock on - carbs were NASTY!! Took the bowls off so the internals were exposed - dropped each carb and bowl into a bowl of each product.. Results were: 1. Chem Clean - stuff was CLEAN in 2 hours, even the jets came clean with air pressure 2. spray cleaner worked second best - took over night for shellacing in bowl and on float to come clean with out assist - jets had to be wired to clean even after over night. Another note - this cleaner was some of the old stuff (Yellow and White can) that used to burn like crazy if you got it under your wedding band - this new "dechlorinated" (or what ever they did to the good stuff) is NOT EVEN CLOSE to as good.. 3. Tech Tron almost same as spray cleaner.. 4. Sea Foam.. Gonna be the most hated person on the planet here but gotta say - I left the carb in the Sea Foam there for over a week and it did = NOTHING.. Well,, maybe it did loosen the shellac enough to make it scrapable clean by using my finger nail after 3 or 4 days but it didnt "dissolve" anything.. jets were still plugged solid... I was really surprised because this was with straight up Sea Foam - was expecting a different result but,, thats the way it happened with me... Oh,, for another experiment I left an o-ring in some Chem Clean overnight one time - WOW = WAYYYYYYYYYYYYY COOL!!