cowpuc

Yep,, sure are Snype..

loose neck bearings

THAT is sooooo way cool Bill :dancefool::clap2: = CONGRATS to you my friend!!

,, 2nd Gens got a Throttle Position Sensor? What da heck,, ,, is it a magnetic puc (not like me - I am a non magnetic puc) on the side of the slide body?? If so,, how can that work with vacuum operated slides.. Maybe operated off the carb that the other carbs are synced to??? Never mind,,, I'll try to keep my nose out of this and go back to 1st Gen Tech where at least I have somewhat of a clue.. I gotta get out more

Pull the timing plug, drop a timing light on it and see where she's hitting and how the Spark advance is performing. Pretty easy - thinking you should have an "H" stamp next to the "T-1" stamp on the flywheel (if its like the 1st Gens) - the arrow on the cover should land in between "H" arms when idling at 1 grand and the light clamped on number one plug wire.. Should get a real steady climb in the advance starting right off idle.. Actually,, I have used oil thickening products like Lucas or "motor honey" a number of times to help diagnose mysterious rattles and nocks Rodney.. Take a stethoscope or even an empty roll of paper towel to listen thru - start the motor and get er knocking - get as close the rattle area as you can pin point by listening thru the scope or tube - pull the oil fill and dump in a pint of your favorite motor quieter downer and listen closely as you add the goo.. I have rebuilt a few top ends that people have ruined by starting dry after sitting for a long time and they ruined cam journals by spinning them up with no prelube - thinking that if this is the case with your scoot, because the cam journals are part of the pressurized oil pump system it will probably quiet down fairly rapidly where gear lash rattle or a bearing that is oil bath instead of being part of the pressure system will take a little longer to quiet down.. Another thing to remember - a wrist pin rattle is unique in its location higher up in the jug and oft times will rattle at just off idle when holding a steady low speed rpm with no load on the engine. Big end bearing tend to rattle at higher r's and real noticable right when you take the load off.. As you know - ignition inspired rattles normally happen when load is applied and never affected by thickening the oil.. You ever stick an oil pressure gauge on it to see how much pressure its creating? Might not be a bad idea.. If this is happening when your riding at particular times - say like 1st gear, low r's and only as your easing away from a stop sign it could even be gear ramp up and looseness between the gears.. Clutches can rattle - does it change when you pull the clutch in? Does it lessen when you lean the bike over? Its possible that you have lost the cage on a bearing and the balls are out of sequence (all now riding together).. Got any "buzz" in the bars when ya spin er up? Only reason I ask is I had a scoot once that I bought cheap for rebuild and resell.. Got er fired up and discovered a strange buzz in the bars and a noisy motor - got talking to the former owner and found out it had been hydrolocked = bent rod.. Talk about strange noises BUT accompanied by noteworthy vibes.. Also had an Evo Sporty that I bought dirt cheap cause it rattled and had a really strange buzz in it (Sporties have a normal low end buzz built in - this one was a nasty mid range buzz). Turned out that a PO over revved the poor thing and nocked the crank out of spec - few wacks with a lead hammer between the v-blocks pulled her back into speck and NO MORE NOISE.. Gotta imagine that nocking a crank out of spec or, being a multi pin motor - even nocking one out of phaze could cause some pretty serious rattles that should not deminish with motor honey being added..

Check resistance on your plug caps too..

Still wondering if it would be prudent to just pull the timing plug and toss a light on it = if she's advancing properly the pressure sensor has to be working.. I know if you want full advanced timing marks ya gotta take a degree wheel and mark your own flywheel but you can still easily watch the advance movement and see if its acting properly.. May or may not be a good pretest before rippin er apart...

Now that right is one huge group of lop eared fun loving varmints if there ever was one!!! THANK YOU for posting this up Frog!!

A "POK" is the sound a BB makes after it's tossed out of my 760 Crosman with 10 Pumps and is going thru the side of the canvas tent that my Dad just put up for the two of us to stay in while up north hunting Deer when I was a kid:big-grin-emoticon:.. By the way,, if the BB's are "Pokking" they are not being damaged and can be reused - if they are "Pinging" as in hitting a hubcap on my dad's truck, they are no longer usable.. One of these days Tweeksis, Tip and I are hoping to make it up there and see if we can find a Pig in a Pine Tree Bubber - hope you lop eared varmints have a blast up there!!!

,, back in the day I use to load up a case of 100 rounds of 6 shot on my cheapy Lee Handloader, grab the spring loaded hand clay pigeon tosser (broke more of em tossing em than hitting em) and a couple cases of pigeons and the 870 and go to shooting.. Actually got good enough I could toss em - drop the tosser and grab the gun, shoot and even hit a few = I am like Raggy,, I LOVED wasting ammo .. Wish I could make it down,, I'd do that 40 dollar deal cause I aint sure they would let me into West by God with my coach gun strapped on Tweeksis side:big-grin-emoticon:... HOPE YA'LL HAVE A BLAST DOWN YONDER!!

Yep, daughter lived in Greenville SC for 8 years - didnt take long for the I-40 trail around Ashville and then down 25 to get really boring so the cut across thru Dolly Wood, Severville, Smokey Mtn NP and east on 129 became the mainstay - lots of water down yonder I tell ya and diggin on the fog too - would MUCH rather ride wet than fog myself.. Slept on the picnic tables on the west end of the Dragon by the lake pull off many times and survived rainy nights by tossing the bike cover over the bag on the table cause it was pouring rain.. WOW ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ WOW WOW WOW Yamagrl - BIG RED IS GORGEOUS:178::banana::bowdown: = THANK YOU for the 's sister!! Wowzy,, seeing lots of goodies on the Big feller!! Got an old Niehouse paper with most of those parts listed in it = small fortune in bling right there I tell ya!! I still LOVE the looks of the MK1's!!

,, ,,, been laying low cause of some headache issues - trying to figure out if it's eye related.. Now I wonder if that lop eared Birdy varmint knew about it, took advantage of the situation and flew the coup thinking the site was safe for a while = not a good move,,, my , :stirthepot: and cant even come close to the likes of @Flyinfool and his kind = you started the machine to clean out the Snoper didnt ya Jeff? Notice a great big dark cloud overhanging us all day - Waukee was dead center of it:big-grin-emoticon:... Hope you folks are having a BLAST out there Don!!

,,, :95: Indeed,, Thoughts and Prayers Up for Medics family at the loss of our friend!! Thanks Gunny for posting this up - hard to read but really appreciate knowing!!

Stopped in just to ask this same question DJ = thanks for posting this up!! @Barrycuda and all our other southern riders ,, caught some of the reporting about issues related to this storm,, PLEASE let us know your all ok = THOUGHTS AND PRAYERS UP FOR ALL AFFECTED!!! Remembering back in the early 70's - buddy and I were gonna go into the Airforce on the "buddy plan".. His brother was a Staff Sargent and stationed at Fort Eglin Air Base in Pensicola = said before you sign anything come down here and visit for a month or so.. We did and changed our minds.. Shortly after we left - a hurricane came thru and sucked out every air conditioner in the barracks we had just stayed in .. Watching the news about this one = HUGE chance of Tornado's producing some of the very same damages related to the one I am speaking of. Was numerous lives lost back then - PLEASE take warnings seriously and stay safe!!

Thinking I am reading this correctly Coffy,,, never owned an RSTD but cant imagine it any different than most wheel bearing applications. You want to end up being able to apply fresh grease into the open side of the bearing if its not a totally sealed unit.. If there is a seal that is pressed into the bearing journal after the bearing is pressed in (which - if my memory is correct - this is exactly the case on the 83's I have serviced bearings on - cant be much different than yours) it is that seal that seals the side of the bearing that is open. It is also that seal that allows you to repack that bearing with grease during maintenance intervals. All that said = the bearing face with the built in retainer/seal would go internal.. In the end you should end up with open face of the bearings pointed outwardly and having those open faces covered by the rubber seal you would place in after the bearing is installed.. The built in seal factory installed into the bearings would keep grease from running into the area in the center of the wheel and thereby ending up with dry bearings. Dont forget to install ALL internal spacers before you press the bearings in, there should be an internal spacer that - as the nut is tightened on the end of the axle it ultimately is captured against bushings and bearing races and not pulling the bearings inwardly on their races - make sense? I am hard to follow sometimes so it may not!! Also, I like to pack the open bearing faces behind the seals really well after installing the bearings and seals before I slide the axle thru. Its a really good practice to make sure the seal lips that meet the axle are also lightly covered IMHO. Light smear on the axe itself dont hurt.. Also, dont forget to grease the buffer pins and splines - saves a lot of wear n tear - keeps things quiet too..

:lightbulb:I got this one bro!! I got it I got it!!!!!!!!! Insulate the rear trunk to make it into a chest freezer,, get a cassette tape of that carnival music ice cream trucks play while driving thru neighborhoods,, dress up like a clown and drive around your neighborhood selling those polka dot ice cream bars,,, have a brand new triked Goldwing paid for free and clear in NO TIME = tahhhhhhh dahhhhhh

Dag nabbit that Yamigrl sure knows how to make complicated matters livable and understandable - even for lop eared varmints like me .. My final answer would have been a hunk of electrical tape stretched over that flashing red light cause I have fired a few shots at that sneaky bugger too GOOD, EASY TO UNDERSTAND AND QUALITY INFO YAMAGRL!! :sign Rock On::sign Rock On:

At 70k on a 16 year old scoot for 3250 I would also be looking for varification of things like rear shock replacement and valve train maintenance.. Here http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/mcy/5752919005.html is an 07 with 40k out near you Bella for an asking 3800 but willing to dicker.. 3250 cash may buy the 07 - pretty much rest assured that 3500 would take it.. You can probably see where I am going with my thoughts,, 7 year newer scoot - less mileage for roughly a 500 dollar variance.. If nothing else it shows that your not looking at a steal but an ok price.. Hey,, wait a minute here,,, a year 2000 - is that one of those MM's - tan seat and white in color? If so,, could be a different story if that is what your looking for and that is what he is selling - those are "numbered" scoots,, collectables as it were.. If thats the case, its in good shape and thats what YOU like than yea,, good deal!! I would still be looking at the rear shock and making sure it aint leaking, take a peek at the valve covers and see if its got newer gaskets in it and check the other stuff mentioned too though cause its still subject to all the above - may as well know what your gonna have to add to get the next 200k out of her!! Bottom line - you really dont know what you got with either of em till ya go see em in person - pics tend to be pretty deceiving,, not always but sometimes...

Got cha,,, could be a slide hanging up - they get a little sticktion happening and that can do it.. Might not be a bad idea to pull the air box lid - take a gaze at the slide movement in each barrel - start it up, twist the throttle a couple times and see if they are each moving properly. It really doesnt take much to hang up a slide. Bad plug also comes to mind,, even though they are new - pull the plugs and see if ya got one that shows fouling.. If your using iridium plugs - might try swapping back to standard NGK's - gap em on the tight side at 32 thou so they got room to stretch with time. Dont over choke it to start it - get it off `choke as quick as possible so the plugs dont have a chance to blacken (these smaller "D" plugs dont take much over choke to foul em).. See if that helps.. Also may double check the connection on the wires at the caps - get one that didnt get screwed in real well, been firing on a long arc and is now arc burnt - resistance there is a real killer of power.. You got a timing light you can toss on it? Not saying its not the spark advance - your idea to check it is worthy,, unscrew that plug, clamp on a light and peek in the hole - be REAL easy to see if the advance is working.. Just thinking out loud here with my thoughts about thinking its elsewhere and only from wearing out a few of these V-4's and hanging out with these lop eared VR varmints - havent heard much failure dealing with the advance system.. TCI = yes,, spark advance = not so much.. TCI will do some crazy things like we are talking about but usually the failure is easily noticable by the Tach acting up... IMHO of course...

If I felt better and wasnt in the middle of helping the kids with the Wedding thats happening in 2 days I would be RIGHT THERE showing you hippy wannabees how to :dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool: Miss ALL of you and THANK YOU soooooooooooooo much for the pics/vids and words!! Keep em coming PLEASE!!!!!!!!! :clap2::clap2:

Made me cry Jack,, reminds me so much of home - raising the kids,,, deep sigh of great memories... Never had the home of luxury like that one but we raised our 4 kids at the dead end of 5 miles of gravel road here in Michigan.. Had thousands of acres of State Land with lakes and trout streams covering them and I always considered "State Land" to be owned by "we the people" sooo. Abandoned Blue Berry patches that the State aquired with one of the huge farms that made up some of the land kept our freezers over flowing with fresh organic berries that our kids ate like candy. I was an avid bow and gun deer hunter back then - had numerous stands on our own property but never hunted from them, always hunted the interior of the State lands - my kids never got into the killing part of harvesting deer but brother - they LOVED (especially my oldest who is a teacher now out in Wilton California) to sit out there on those stands on our property and watch deer by the dozens come in to feed - Awahoo (her biker name,, real name is Tami) had em all named and could go on for hours about the crazy stuff those White Tail would do.. Deer kill limit was 5 a year per person if you played it right (had to count antler points) with land owner Doe permits. I managed a couple parcels (out of state owner) connecting our acreage to more State land to the east of us that gave me option to an additional 4 deer but always found 5 to be about all we could handle for filling our "hamburger", jerky and Steak needs.. The many many two tracks and the State "snowmobile" trail that ran all the up to the Mackinaw Bridge that connects upper Michigan to the Lower provided all of us with HOURS and hours of sledding, dirt biking, go cart driving (kids were driving old cars as go carts wayyy before they were double digits in age). Talk about a blast.. Tip was a school teacher when we married - I managed Building and Grounds at the same school and thats where we met. Neither of us could stomach the thought of our future children being subjected to the school systems in our area back then so - together we decided to Home School any children we would be blessed with.. Our first was born at the end of our first year of Marriage and that ended any outside the home "work" that Tip did - what an amazing stay at home Mom she was and still is.. She would and still does work CIRCLES around this old Cowpuc!! This was all going on during the years that the fight for schools of choice was HUGE and home schooling was legally "iffy" at best - we never "hid" what we were doing - matter of fact,, I remained active enough in the school and, later became involved with a local college as an Administrator - pulled some strings of agreement to have our kids "tested" on a regular basis - Tippy's teaching skills were good enough and our kids inherited enough of her brains that they always scored at the top of the testing criteria in the local school system so their test results helped bring the local systems overall score up enough that they got more money for the system and they left us alone concerning the home schooling matter .. Nowadays I understand that Home Schooling is MAJORLY used and completely PC - wasnt always like that I tell ya,, back then it fit more into my "not so much PC way of thinking" .. Sorry brother - got me like we were sitting in Store with our feet propped up eating ... Thanks Jack - that's a good one!

IMHO - our school master guru Bongo is 100,000,000,000 percent right on the money - dont run er no more till ya drop a meter on the battery!!! I have noticed a fair amount of variances in the dash volt meters over the years but never had one peg out PLUS - noticing the lights are brighter is a positive give away that she's over producing = regulator problems of some sort.. Might not be a bad idea to check the ground to the rectifier - could be as simple as a bad connection.. This brings back memories,, back in the 6 volt Yamaha Enduro days Mom Yam used the battery to shunt off voltage spikes - get a weak battery, over rev the motor a little and POOF - 15 dollar headlight and all those cute little 6 volt tach/speedo bulbs = exit - stage left:big-grin-emoticon:... ,, thinking our dear friend Bongo is trying to keep something like that from happening to your bikes much more expensive highly sensitive digital devices there brother:thumbsup: I love Bongo - he's a really nice guy

I know there are a couple suppliers around Chock.. I have a like new set of after markets with slides sitting on the shelf that I would be willing to part with - not sure they would do you any good though as they are for the Mk1's.. Personally, I have found Yama Bond number 5 to work awesome for pin hole repairs on slides and I really really like stock diaphrams - they just seem more flexible which - at least in my pea brain equals out to more responsiveness so I just keep repairing old ones .. I will say this - when you pull your slides you wanna check em for pin holes very carefully but you also want to stretch the area where the diaphram seals against the leading edge of the carb body - fine cracks along that edge are really easy to miss. Gotta ask this,,, did the scoot ever run right after having the carbs rebuilt?

I dont live on 5 miles of gravel road anymore but still like to do two track, single track and off road my 83's on occasion.. For me its Progressives, just under an inch of preload (I use Copper pipe end caps cause I dont care for the possibilty of PVC plastic wearing off and floating around in my fork hydraulic system), 12.5 weight fork oil (Honda use to spec ATF for forks back in the 80's before cartridge valves - used it for years in my dirtbikes but found it to light for my touring bike two tracking packed with gear and riding two up needs) and no air. Seems to give the most suspention travel on big bumps and running 50 or 60 on gravel roads in studder bumps they sure seem smooth.. I also run my rear mono at 70 pounds and number 4 on the dampner.. Drop to 45 when one up and riding single but leave the forks alone and wowzy = still awesome in the corners.. :bikersmilie::bikersmilie:

Got a little more time with the MK1's than the Mk2's like yours Chock - hope this is applicable, if not I sure one of the guru's will correct me and set us both straight.. If you look at the left engine cover - the one that your stator is under - its on the left side of the bike if you are sitting on it and is marked with "Yamaha - YCIS". Notice at about 10 oclock on that cover there is a small screw in plug that is has a flat screw driver slot cut in it? Unscrew that plug and you now have a window to view the fly wheel marks. On the flywheel you will see "T-1" and T-2 stamped in it if you rotate the wheel (can be done by bumping the starter). Those "T" marks are NOT for ignition timing - they are for setting the cam/valve timing when doing top end work.. They do stand for "Top dead center" though and the T-1 mark is stamped for TDC of the number 1 jug - the 1 jug is also the cylinder you ignition time from.. That said - if you locate the T-1 stamp and look beside it you should see a "H" stamp. That "H" stamp is suppose to be the 5 degree mark of which a timing light should shine on the pointer of the case locating it between the arms of the "H" when the motor is spinning 1 thousand rpm. Pretty easy to check with a clamp on timing light clamped onto the number 1 plug wire. Once that checks out you should be able to spin the motor up and visually be able to observe a steady climb on the flywheel as the ignition advances. To my recollect - there are no actual timing marks showing full advanced - maybe cause the ignition timing is not suppose to be adjustable. May sound crazy but that is about the easiest way I know of to check for ignition advance. Personally, over the course of riding these V-4's since 1987 I have had wayyyy more problem with carb diaphrams causing exactly the issues you are talking about than ignition advance problems BUT I am sure a vacuum leak, faulty pressure sensor, a loose pick up coil, a weak pick up coil, a faulty TCI could sure cause some mysterious issues.. I do think if it were mine, even though the carbs have been recently professionally rebuilt, I would spit check the headers right after start up and make sure she's hitting on all four - go ahead and check the spark advance but if it looked ok - I would pull those diaphrams and double check them and slide stickiness quicker than you can say Pucs Crazy..