cowpuc

Sticky relay somewhere?

Pulled the shifter mech/foot peg, front crash, rear crash this a.m. - gonna take a little cleaning/oiling (pretty limited on my left hand/arm usage - gonna have to do your own clean up) and all that Stang but good to go parts. Bongo - you got a front blink assembly? I can come up with one if not.. Stang - PM me your shippin info and I will get this stuff out to you so you dont miss Color touring over there:happy65:

Heyyyy - HI ANNIE!! Think the guy who did my install may have mentioned the Thunder Max.. I know he said the tuner they used has "cork screws" on the end of the leads that screw into the surface by rotating the lead.. Seems like he said something about another model of tuner that uses a little set of "wings" to imbed into the surface.. They probably used the screw type on my cause I am kinda known as a screwball and your scoot probably got the wing type cause you are an sister!!!!

Not sure,, thinking so Deej cause it is definitely one of the new/improved tuners "Payers Up" is TOTALLY right on target brother!! These new fangdangled Screamin Eagle Race tuners are AWESOME but I gotta hunch that HD didnt pull any punches on passing the RnD cost on to the consumer = Payers Up!! THANKS FOR THE WELL WISH DREWS!! Being one to completely enjoy the power of the pen = TOTALLY awesome brother = THANK YOU!!! Just read it to Tip, being an x-school teacher, she sends her too!! First "device" check is tomorrow at 1:30.. Guess they are gonna do some fine tuning - they said there are several steps to all that (not exactly sure what that means) but the last time I watched the Harley shop tune up a scoot with race tuner I remember seeing this long "sniffer" tube disappear up the 2 into one Patriot Pipe we had mounted up.. Being a Patriot myself and now packin my own race tuner,,,,,, gettin a little nervous ..

:icon_lurker:,,, ,,,, All of a sudden the :lightbulb:comes on in the pea brain of the sitting in the back row of Bongo's classroom.. His hand flies up as he blurts out: Oh,, oh,, Mr. Cotter,, Mr. Cotter,, what are the chances that this problem was happening BEFORE the Stator was replaced,,, possibly a key switch - if so, could this have been the problem all along - any chance Raggy,, maybe running down the battery? Or,,, if it happened afterwards,, what are the chances that the wire harness got pinched when the tank was replaced. Mr. Cotter,, could you also give the class your thoughts on using Dielectric grease across areas that are suppose to be infinity on the ohmers? Sorry guys,, I'll shut up,,, think the rev limiter in my new tuner may be set to high.. Just tell ol Horshack Puc to shut up, sit down and pay attention in class:happy34:.. CAN NOT WAIT TO HEAR THE SOLUTION TO THIS MYSTERY!!

I LOVE Bongo's "Electronic's 101" classes!!!!

Yep,, neat scoots as long as your using em for their intended use.. Not a highway scoot - putzy in a friendly kinda of way. Limited suspention in an old school way (lower ground clearance compared to modern "woods"/Dual Sport or MX converted scoot BUT very friendly for bopping around the woods on = GOOD COW TRAILING, VENISON HAULER and GREAT for shorter inseamed folks Steve!! Dont expect a highway possible traveler though = gear it to run 65 and all the poop is gone for woods fun.. Personally, I think it was a shame Yammy didn't sub tranny (hi/lo range - like the Honda CT90, Suzuki 185 ect) = would have made the little fat tire 200 Yam a REAL runner.. The fatter tires are also not the best thing on the street either,, can be kind of tricky when wet but,, really nice for sandy/loose soil.. NICE for quietly sneaking around in the forest, can ride fast in the woods = lower boingers make em down right nimble.. Motors are TOUGH as nails. Weakness is typical Yami cam drive system = keep up on the maintenance cause that upper end dont take kindly to being abused. If your looking at used - even if it looks low hours = start it and listen carefully for cam noise.. Had a GORGEOUS BW350 years ago that I had to almost GIVE away cause I couldnt find a trigger coil for it ANY WHERE!! Am personal friends with the old Yamaha Dealer in town - even he could not find one. NOTHING interchanged!! TW200 is still being produced (I think) so you should be good to go on any parts needs for a good while. Steve,, without looking,, I think the modern day stuff will still work for upgrading an older model - might be a good idea to jump on a Yammie parts list and double check that if your looking at an older one. Geared down, low air pressure on tires so they can squat = even kids can play in the sand BUT - dont confuse them with the little 2 stroke dirt bikes for youngens though = they are heavy.. If it hasnt got a kicker it can be converted fairly reasonably and a step back in time to having a kicker is a GREAT addition,, especially if you come back from your tree stand after the evening hunt, turn on the key and discover the battery is dead,, especially if your on nasty muddy ground that does not allow even fat tires to get a grip to turn the motor over

Raggy - did you put dielectric grease ON the connectors? If so, you probably have kept them from getting a good connection. Those pins and ground connectors have to be clean and DRY = NO GREASE. Sure sounds like a bad ground connection creating a backfeed of some sort. Dielectric grease is an insulator = does NOT allow for current flow, does NOT conduct.. Make sense?

,,,,, Deer season is right around the corner, add a servo for trigger pull,, strap on the 1911,,, sit on the deck and go Deer hunting.. Thinking that fold up wingy thingy could REALLY be fun Jack!! WIZ = xtra batteries, fly it to a Puc's MGnEM next summer and we will attack a Hot Dog and send it back!! FOOL = DONT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT BROTHER!! I hear that thang buzzin around takin pictures of the back of my house and it'll be Opening Day of Fold Up Drone season THAT THING IS AWESOME!!!!:dancefool::dancefool:

"DEER 1,, Stang 0"? NOT SO FAST!!! Stang - I can for sure come up with: Left front crash bar Left rear crash bar Left footpeg and shifter assembly Tweeks is partially disassembled in the garage - I just went out and checked - those parts have a LOT of miles on em and are "usable" but I have a couple other parts bikes out back that I will also take a peek at and pick out the best parts I got for your repair. How about little things like the helmet lock on the rear crash, "tweeked" handlebar, Horn assembly, Clutch Master and lever, yadadee yadadee? Look it over really really good before I ship parts brother.. All that said,, adding in what Bongo is preachin,, looks more like:\ "DEER 1,, STANG 6"

Gotta be the HUGE collection of AWESOME 1st Gen Ventures on our site Boss.. Things are so flipping fast even the pictures held here are rotating when they go flying by!! :bikersmilie::bikersmilie:

:95::95:,,,, OUCHY OUCH OUCH OUCH BROTHER :95::95:.. I am soooooooooooo sorry to read about this Stang - WOWZY does that look nasty!! Sorry for taking so long to find this brother - hopefully your healing fine with no infection and all that!! You got my thoughts and Prayers Up my friend!! We need a parts list Stang - lots of parts around here!!!

Whoaa da boat,,,, WHOAAA DA BOAT!! This here's a Motorcycle Club over flowing with the biggest bunch of ,, ,, lop eared varmints the world wide web ever did see... Summer dont never end around this joint.. Just cause Ol Fly in the Ointment Fool is preppin his white washer dont mean we gotta stop Summer.. We can all still set around, swap tires and stories, look at pics and watch those southern varmints make us proud!! :big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

Warms my heart just hearing that someone, somewhere FINALLY acknowledges being able to follow one of my explanations Duey!! Got a gadget to access my Tuner thru the telephone so those Cardio people can do some tuning if Tip, Sis and I get caught off roading and need to do some fine tuning BUT,,, NO PROGRAMMER:confused24:... RATSSSSSSSSSSS!! Gonna have to see if I can find an actual programmer on E-Bay I guess:guitarist 2: Ahhh yes,, now I remember brother!! I think those Tuner geeks call your condition "Tachy" and mine "Brady".. Sort of like yours was tach'n out - gotta agree with ya brother - definitely needing a peek at the rev limiter parameters. That was one strange summer brother - hopefully next summer we can get together for LOTS MORE 's and 's and and :essen_024:with NO heart rate inducing Prednisone pills necessary!! And even electric dog fences Slayer... According to the Tuner Manual I am suppose to allow this fancy outfit to be around Dog Fences - its says to "cross them as quickly as possible".. Thankfully I'm not "Tuner Dependent" - thinking that means they left my ignition points in place so if something happens to my Tuner the pump dont stop completely but defaults to running on 3 again.. Hearing that brother!! When you guys was partying in Oberlin I was really draggin butt.. Following Sunday (June 19) I was back in the hospital - JUST CRAZY!! Chest pressure/pain - fatique - lathargic.. E-Room doc ordered another Stress test - found nothing like I told Tip they wouldnt:detective:.. Tip made me go in - personally I had pretty much given up on Doctors - been chasing this stuff for wayyyy to long.. Crazy but this Tuner probably would not have been installed last week had it not been for Tips stubborness during that episode.. That stress test was a big part of the "link" to finding the high resistance in my old wiring.. for Don's MD 2017 for BOTH OF US!! You NAILED it Stang!! We 1st Gen "brothers and sisters of the wrench" know all to well that other ol cliche' should have read = "Takin a lick 'n and keep em tick n'" Havent gotten the tab on this one yet Bro but got a hunch that even at salvage yard price (1/2 of new?) - you could be sitting on a pretty good down pay on a new scoot... May wanna scrub the leads and connectors on yours, vacuum pack it up and carry it in your maintenance department (right bag).. We ever get to another Rally together and someone complains about issues like I been having for the last couple years - I can do the install cause I know where to cut and how to place the test lead connectors (see pic) and you got the parts.. If its an "MD" Rally I will donate my time and skills and REALLY save the lop eared VR varmint some cash Nothin really brother except for another THANK YOU to ALL for the thoughts and Prayers Up thru this whole crazy thing.. Feeling a little bit better every day it seems.. Not like a handfull of Prednisone - a lot more subtle but definitely better.. Less than a week out of Surgery and walked 1 mile today and rode the bicycle another 4. Seem to be awake a LOT more - longer hours between naps (was sleeping 16 to 18 hours a day). Noticing my abililty to handle cooler temps is improving (thankfully - I spent last winter under 6 inches of blankets with our house thermostat set at 74 and still FROZE,,, PLUS - I KNOW FOOL IS PLAYING WITH THE MACHINE CAUSE I SAW THOSE CLOUDS HANGIN OVER THE LAKE TODAY JEFF ) and actually developed "sweat" while riding bike today!! Puc PS - told Tip if this thing works and get my groove back I am saving up for another "Crud"... She smiled and said "now THERE'S the sweetheart I remember".. You guys should be proud of me = in accordance with "The Code" the "1700cc" part of that declaration somehow eluded that statement

Had another biopsy scheduled for a little case of Prostate Cancer recently. The urologist didnt like the looks of some pre-op tests and I ended up way laid at the hospital during those tests with words like "I wouldn't touch him with a ten foot pole until he is cleared by a Cardiologist" being openly discussed. My daughter, who is a Dr. that inherited her mothers stubborness, got involved and agreed with Tippy and others that my extreme tiredness and dementia like symptoms that only seemed to relent with high doses of Prednisone, had increased over the course of time had gotten way out of hand and the idea of this all being connected surfaced. My 2nd stress test came back with NO noticable blockages but a notably increasing electrical problem - definitely had some high resistance in there somewhere. No matter how hard I pushed it I could not get my R's up over 85 ticks a minute and a resting low of 35.. Having been thru this before, albeit, with not quite as bad of results,, my daughter mentioned sending me off to a tuner specialist known as an Electrophysiologist.. This made my lop eared ears perk up and she asked why. I told her that I had heard that term before when a really good friend of mine, another lop eared varmint known as @Flyinfool , had mentioned it during a phone conversation we had had a few months ago.. Another gearhead, my current GP, agreed with my daughters reasoning that my current tuner was running my system way to lean and that depriving my operating system of 1/2 its needed nutrients and O2 might just be causing some of the issues I have been suffering with over the last couple years. Having been down this same road several times since I turned 60 and showing typical signs of a high mileage sticker covered machine - still good lookin but kinda wobbly in the corners and moaning a lot ,, I was somewhat when the Cardio gearhead looked at me and said he was surprised I did not have even worse symptons like a major electrical short. He mentioned the only difference between "fainting" and a "heart attack" being the length of time it takes for a person to wake up from an "episode":confused24:, the latter being the worst cause it can be fatal.. After a short briefing on how much easier it is to install a Screaming Eagle Race Tuner (Pace Maker) on a human body than on,, say a Harley Ultra (IMHO) it was prep time and off to the "shop". These new age wrenches are amazing, I remember thinking about the quoted install time, 1 hour and 30 minutes and comparing that to the most recent install of the same tuner on my buddys Ultra taking closer to 5 hours.. For all my brothers and sisters of the wrench - I will include some interesting detail here of the install procedure. You non-gear heads can skip this paragraph if your bored.. Power wash your rig, get rid of all dirt and bugs collected in the area. Make a 2 inch cut right below steering stem (collar bone in the shop manual), look at the leads for the Tuner - note the cork screw ends? those go in first. Make a 1/4 inch cut in the hydraulic tube right under the steer stem, thread the leads into the hydraulic tube. Some tuners only have 1 lead but the Screaming Eagle has two - this gives you total control of both top and bottom end according to the guy who installed mine (no idea if he was referring to torque/hp curve:biker:).. Push the leads in until they stop inside the pump, turn the leads so the self tapping cork screw ends thread into the surfaces they are resting against inside of the pump. Stitch around the leads protruding from the line - you cant use tie wraps cause they will pinch off the hydraulic lines = I asked about this:no-no-no:.. Connect the Tablespoon shaped Tuner to the leads. Carve out a small area for the tuner to rest in, make a loop in the tuner leads so if you do any off roading you have plently of flex. Program your tuner for a resting rate somewhere between 60 and 100 but keep in mind that the higher you set your resting rate - the sooner the battery in your tuner will run out and the sooner you will have to replace it:Cartoon_397:. Please note - I chose the MRI compatible unit cause I still have other future testing for cancer coming up PLUS I still plan on riding with you guys. If you ever find yourself needing a Tuner - you can save a few bucks if you dont need this option BUT - because you are reading this on a motorcycle club webpage, you are probably a risk taker and, that being said, you might want to consider the fact that MRI's and other magnetic imaging diagnostic things are pretty standard in this day and age - even for setting broken toes from falling over at a corner - and they will wreak havoc on your programming - just sayin.. MRI compatible is the way to go for us life in the fast lane bikers = IMHO.. @kevin-vic-b.c. = AWESOME on the Knackers Yard CD's = :guitarist 2::guitarist 2: OUTSTANDING AND THANK YOU MY FRIEND!! Sorry I didnt get back to you sooner but things have been a little crazy around here!! Hope to get some listening time in now that I am home = VERY SOON will give more feedback Kev!! A HUGE THANKS TO YOUR SON AND OTHER KNACKERS YARD MEMBERS TOO!! Also recieved a get well package from you International Riders = WOW !!!! Thank you @slowrollwv for sending it and to all those who signed it - you folks are amazing!! Will wear it with pride!! Tweeksis will wear hers too and says THANK YOU too!! Thanks to ALL my friends here too for thinking about or praying for us.. HOT DOGS FOR EVERYONE!! Your ol buddy Puc:biker:

Awesome job raggy = thank you!!!!!

IMHO = WOWZY your getting some great advice here Ready! Thought I might add: I was personally considering a partnership before I opened my bike shop. Another really good friend who had suffered through the loss of a business, and even worse yet - the loss of a really good friendship - strongly suggested I do some digging into issues that seem to plague Partnerships when compared to Sole Proprietorships and make my decision after doing so. I would suggest you and your future business partner take some time to study up a little on Business Partnerships and try to get a good handle on what can and often does cause them issues.. Avoid the possible pitfalls by identifying their potential and working ahead of them!! Wishing you ALL nothing but the very best in your life's new endeavor!! Puc

Yep,, concur,, HARD WIRE THE CONFOUNDED THING lest the blade connectors in that brand new high amp terminal figure out a way to contaminate theyselves causing resistance to magically appear with the resulting heat to melt any form of supporting plastic or rubber to the point that two of those little blades on the end of them there little white wires make contact with each other and short out a perfectly good stator leaving you stranded thousands of miles from nowhere:big-grin-emoticon:.....

This is my kind of thread Anssi - I LOVE the gearheaded you got going on here - like everyone else who has responded - sort of a quick picture of the story of my life = SO GLAD YOU AINT GIVIN UP WITHOUT A FIGHT BROTHER - GIVE THAT 1ST GEN ALL THE POSSIBILITY OF ROLLING ONE MORE MILE:happy65:.. Drill motor,, hmmm ,,,,, did some playing around with big engine ice and hill climb scoots in years past that had to be bump started with a "cart" because of the possiblity of a back firing engine twisting a great big drill motor backwards and dislocating a shoulder or breaking a wrist.. Think it had something to do with one of those laws of physics = "when something abruptly changes direction, what ever is holding on to it better be ready for the equal and opposite other direction change" - or something like that.. Times like these sure make me miss the old kick starter days I tell ya brother!! Personally I have never put much faith in the whole liquid steel thing when it came to area's requiring supporting strength dealing with pressure - patching a hole in a case that does nothing but contain fluid = stuff seemed to work pretty good but just not sure about how much I would personally trust the stuff to hold much.. Looking at the broken journal in the picture,,, ,,, it does almost look like someone tryed to roll the engine over without the outside cover journal support for that idler gear and that the idler gear simply pushed the inner journal apart when it tryed to roll up the engine - Anssi,, if this is NOT how that broken journal came to be - it would be well worth your time to investigate what exactly caused the breakage - you may have bigger issues (valve train out of time, stuck rod, loose bolt causing the drive train to abruptly lock up) here:detective:. Bottom line, the postition of that break is, IMHO, shows a weak spot in the starter gear train - sort of acting like a "shear pin" on a drive shaft. All that said - looking at the break itself and seeing as it left about 180 degrees of supporting journal still on the case leave me to think it will really need much more support that liquid steel could give it. I may be TOTALLY off on that though (as usual) as it does appear that there is a fair amount of depth left for the shaft to set down into the case so possibly the broken part was snapped as the shaft moved outwardly and pressure was applied to the journal at it weakest area? If this is the "Case" (no pun intended) then by all mean - I TOTALLY agree with gluing the busted piece back in - wrapping it with wire or a small clamp - and give it a shot.. If you do this though - you might want to clean the area up really well and prep the area like you are going to want to weld it (grind a small "V" along the edges - but leave 1/2 the edge as it broke for alignment purposes) - dont try to use JB Weld or Liquid Steel as the glue for the intitial fitment - that stuff is WAY to thick and it will fill all the small high spots in the break you are gonna want to use for proper fitment. Instead - use Super Glue or any other thin running commercial adhesive to get the first fit so it is perfect. Let it set up real good - then do your thing with the JB Weld.. ,, just remembered something,,, another TRUE TO LIFE PUC STORY = back in the 90's I had a neighbor who built a frame for a Mini Bike using JB Weld cause he didnt know how to weld.. Joints looked AWESOME and WOW did they paint up pretty!! Should of seen the look on his face the first time he pulled the recoil on the little 3 horse motor :rotfl::rotfl: If it ends up being that you HAVE to have that broken area for support and you simply dont wanna attempt welding,, wonder if Super Gluing the piece back in and then carefully chasing a set of threads over the journal - then screwing a nut over it - tighten it down and stake it on the unbroken journal half so the nut could not back off Have played with this stuff a little - works pretty dog gone good I tell ya!! Does take some practice (aluminum is wierd stuff - not all created equal - if your gonna practice, try to find a junk Yamaha case to practice on) but not bad.. Got a hunch Tiggin would be somewhat friendlier to rubber seals and case warpage/potential cracking as a LOT less over all heat is needed - thinking electrical fusion heat compared to melting temps (wait a minute - heats heat aint it - go ahead, call ol Puc a bonehead ) You guys are probably talking wayyyy farther into modern gearhead times than my experience is aware of but, back when I was Tiggin Power House steam pipe we used to use "Temp Stik" a lot! Came in a variety of temp setting, looked like a crayon and acted like one too = it would melt at a given temp. I used to draw cool little pictures of Choppers (some even with women on em - dont tell Tip ) and stuff on these great big 18 inch Tubes (the little stuff = all you could do was make a mark) - heat it carefully with a Rose Bud and watch my Crayola art melt before my eyes as the heat chased all the moisture out so my welds had no perosity... Might check at weld shop for Temp Stik - cheap and easy to use!! Like the paint Jeff is suggesting - dont use where your gonna weld.. THIS IS A RIOT!!!:beer::beer:

I am with ya Sylv - gotta LOVE this joint brother - just noticed this thread,, sounding like these guys have got ya rollin again!! Just wanted to add - another thing that I have had success with is filling the carbs thru the drains with straight carb cleaner. Berryman's works awesome for this too. I use a large animal syringe available from Ag Stores - pull the diaphrams and slides, attach the syringe to the drain hose, shoot the juice in till it comes out of the metering rod hole/main jet, close the drain and go to the next one. Let it em set a couple hours, open the drain and move the juice in and out with the syringe to agitate it - suck the Berrymans out - refill with aresole carb cleaner (remember that stuff we used to be able to buy that would burn your finger under your wedding band if ya left it on - man I miss that stuff,, this stuff nowadays is WIMPY) - let it set a couple hours - agitate and remove - fill the syringe with gas - overflow the metering rod holes - agitate and remove.. Saved lots of carb cleanin this way...

Heyyyy - Hi Rodney!!! When I have had problems with that backflow preventer thingy it plugged right off - stuck shut so I could not blow air thru it at all and the bike would only run till the tank pulled enough vacuum that it couldnt flow fuel - then it shut off completely.. I just stuck a piece of ink pen in where the valve was and rode it like that trusting I would be there if the bike ever tipped over and started to leak fuel out of the vent... I suppose it would be possible for it to become partially open and create enough vacuum to prevent flow the fill rate to the pump down enough to starve the carbs.. If I were you I would just spice the line - try it without the restrictor - take the cap off and double check the vent hose to be sure it was good and clear and see what it runs like - those tank vents can cause all kinds of issues!! By the way - let cha in on another little tidbit of info.. If you have a fuel pump failure on these 1st Gens and you carry a piece of gas line in your Maintenance Department you can splice the line above the restrictor - blow into the line and maintain enough pressure on the fuel in the tank with your lungs that the bike will run just fine.. It only takes a couple pounds of pressure to keep things working!!! This works AWESOME if you happen to have one of your kids with you out in the middle of nowhere.. Impresses the daylights out of them thinking their Dad is a miracle worker cause they didnt have to walk AND it gives em something to do while they are sitting on the back of the scoot :checkeredflag::checkeredflag: By the way,, if you try that and the kids forgets to breath out instead of in and gets a mouth full of fuel - you didnt hear this from me brother!!!

Getting some awesome advice happening here IMHO.. There are a number of things that can cause hard/slow cranking on the 1st Gens.. Thought I might toss this one out too - because our starters are a sealed unit with no where for the brush dust to escape to I have found that the dust gathering on the commutator and armature can cause hard cranking issues too.. I took a hard cranking starter apart a number of years ago - cleaned it up really well (was shocked at how dirty it was) and WOWZY - was amazed at how well it cranked!! Thinking that carbon dust can really short things out in there!!!

I am right there with Fool on this one Annsi - you got way to much time and effort into the project to not risk tossing some creative fix at it before you give up.. I would leave the motor in the scoot as it is - cover all parts and pieces so no grind dust could get in - take my dremel and "V" cut the outer edges of case break and the broken piece to prepare for the Tig repair. I would be careful to leave plenty of original broken edge too though so I had something to position the broken piece into for alignment purposes. I would then find a piece of round stock the exact size of the shaft that fits into the hole - Mic the shaft!! It wouldnt hurt to use brass for an alignment pin but steel will work fine.. Put the broken piece back in after weld prep - clamp it into place across the piece and case protusion so the area to be welded is between the clamp pads.. Tighten up the clamp just enough to hold the pieces together. Slip the dowel pin into the hole and tighten down the clamp. Leave the pin in and tack weld the part starting at the rear of the piece. Use short butt welds to avoid over heating the case - that area appears to have ample room for cooling but dont take to many chances. Get all done, let it cool, pull the dowel and she should be good to go.. DEFINITELY worth a shot IMHO..

Wish I could have made it MJ = looking forward to ANY and ALL pics you can provide!! Tweeks, Tip n I heard about the Cannon Ball when we were out at Sturgis one year.. Left the rally and beat foot it in their general direction.. Tent flappin in the wind and Tweeks all revved out - Tip peeking over my shoulder making sure I wasnt breaking our agreed upon speed limit of 100 mph when Tip yells in my ear = WHATS THE HURRY? I yelled back into the slip stream leading to my riding partners pretty face and said = we are talking gargantuan amounts of pre-1930 scoots heading for Frisco from NYC.. You just gotta KNOW that if we follow em to Frisco sooner or later one of em is gonna break down and I am gonna get a chance to work on one of those beauties!!! Three days later and

Holy kapoly and WOWZY kapowzy = now THAT is GORGEOUS Sonshine = endless !!!!! Hmmm,,, totally get your drift on the perdiciment you done put yourself into youngman,, thats a toughy.. Not a lot of changes thru the years so your 07 should be right on par with the 2012.. One of the things I have noticed is how quickly scoots seem to depreciate these days. Being a newer scoot, with a year of warranty left and super low mileage may mean some elbow room to make some bucks on a resale.. Maybe do a mix and match if the new one has some bling on it you want to switch over onto yours before you moved it.. The trailers is WOWZY = icing on the cake for sure!! Just dont wait to long to clean er up, freshen up some fluids and stuff and put her on the market - that warranty is a good sell item but your on the clock of depreciation - IMHO. How many miles on your 07 Doug? You topped 100k yet? In my line of thinking, 200k and over are where they seem to get more expensive to keep em running and higher probability of road side wrench spinning.. Figure if your 07 has 110k on it, you sold it for 3500 USD (just pulled that number out of my hat to get us to 5000 USD). Kept the 2012 and trailer = 200k for 5 grand is far better than 100k for 3500 - at least in your ol Daddy Cowpuc's line of thinking.. If you dont need the trailer and can resell it = this deal is getting better by the minute brother!!!!!!! Another thing you could do is take some of the savings and check on an extended warranty program.. Not sure if Mom Yam offers such but, I am thinking that Harley Davidson dealers offer an extended warranty that can be applied to any bike 5 years old or newer with less than 75k miles on em.. Might be worth doing a little digging around on - see if you could keep the 12, sell the 07, use any savings you realize on the numbers I shared to purchase a 4 year extended unlimited mileage.. Then take 5 years off work, hit the road - go to far off places like Michigan where endless free Hot Dogs are plentiful and just ride the new 12 till the tires fall off with NO worries about break downs:sign bring it on: Ok,, I'll shut up,,, Doug - she is a BEAUTY!!!! Dad PS - if that 2012 were my new bike I would name her "Bagheera" after the Black Panther in the Jungle Book (one of me and Tippies favorite characters).. I would do this long before we entered that jungle out there we all love so much!!