cowpuc

OUTSTANDING DAN'S SON:happy65::happy65: :thumbsup::thumbsup: Congrats brother - ya done good with that youngun!!!!

Hey, Bongo - wishing you two nothing but the best out there!! Drop a line off the back of that boat and bring me home a Marlin if ya can!! Sounds like you folks are headed for some fun!!!!! PS - me and @Marcarl are digging thru your fridge here and just wondering,, you got any grey poopon? These brats ya left in the freezer for us that Carl cooked would be a little better if ya did.. Hold on a minute Bob,,,,,,,, carl,,, get back in here with those keys,, I said I got first dibs on the trike............

,, great thread question with even GREATER RESPONSES !! Definitely a huge contribution to my own self confidence = letting me know I am normal.... Only thing is,,, I kind of initially misunderstood what was being asked when I read "THINGS WE SHOULD OF NEVER DONE GROWING UP" = thinking I was being asked about things I did before I was 25 years old..

Yea and it dont do no good running side by side at night with buddies whose bikes got all those fancy LED Light bars and stuff either - they only help till the tach gets above 3800 and then even their lights start falling behind too.. Hope your ok out there Snype!! We just got home a while ago from a couple days of chasing down some more doctoring stuff and found out our power was out for a while too... High winds around here... Blew all that nasty Wisconsin White Wash away that Fool left in my yard so not all bad though!!

Hi HappyPunch and to VR = glad you found us!! Also, congrats on the awesome scoot - these ol 1st Gens may be ugly (personally - I always thought my 1st Gens were complimentary to my own reflection and they are purdy beyond words) but once they are sorted out - they are all heart!!! All the best wishes in sorting yours out and discover that heart my friend!! Puc PS - I knew Yammer Dan was gonna be as soon as I clicked on your thread here and saw the first pic:missingtooth:

Had to step out for a couple days here chasing more Cancer related stuff - came home and got the message on this one - thanks for paging me VZ... Getting caught back up on where we were helping Jav here - looked at those pics (never did see nothing like that before on no 1st Gen of mine ) but gotta tell ya David - I thought EXACTLY the same thing you did about that looking like a fuel pump in there - sure looks familiar dont it! Why would Mom Yam hang an extra pump way up there WOWZY is that different.. Glad to see you guys are little by little getting it ironed out. Having never owned or worked on a 1st Gen steed with a California brand on it,, I can only think of what I do know about California epa reasoning for what all that stuff is about.. Our bikes over flow the carbs onto the roadway under the bike (to atmosphere) - I highly doubt that California allows for this type of plumbing. Ours do crank vent back up to the airbox and many of us have discovered that adding to much oil on an oil change that when the crankcase gets hot it will aspirate oil into the airbox and then leak that excess oil out onto the engine - sound familiar? Thinking out loud here,, brains a little tired but trying.. I wonder if Mom Yam eliminated the overflow tubes for the carb bowls that run down the backbone of the bike and normally exit in front of the rear shock.. If they eliminated that circuitry and ran the over flows into some sort of vaporizing canister(s) (possibly what that thing that looks like a highly technical black cup holder with the hoses connected to it could be:confused24:). Wonder if that is what the nipple on the bottom of the carb does = replacing the overflow lines on our bikes.. Also wondering if that whole system but then be routed in junction with the crankcase/top end venting system back up to the airbox for complete the "NO VENTING TO ATMOSPHERE" rule that California might be requiring.. Jav - if what I am thinking has any accuracy at all,, I wonder if its possible that the canister(s) and vent system got filled with raw fuel back when she hydrolocked.. If so,, and being close to the engine like it is - I wonder if its possible that raw fuel is getting warmed up and forced back into the carbs... Not knowing exactly how that the lines for that system are routed or possible linked to the fuel system - also wondering if there may be a diaphram that is cracked somewhere that is allowing raw fuel to be pumped thru the venting system instead of thru the normal paths in the carbs.. I think if it were mine I would disconnect that system from the carbs so I knew there was no way I was getting fuel back into them from that possible source. I would then remove the air filter so I could see into the carbs, turn the key on - toggle the kill switch so the fuel pump clicks and she's pumping - keep doing it till it either stops clicking - indicating the carbs are full all the while watching the little main jet air vents right at the top of the throats of the carbs for overflow and also that nipple on the carb that connects to the cannister.. If it primes up with no sign of float valve or float issues - I'd fire that puppy up, keep a close eye on it and see if she holds.. In the end,, I would definitely be in the process of eliminating all that California stuff and getting her back to normal.. If those carbs are still overflowing and,if its plumbed like I think it may be (no over flow tubes running down to the front of the rear shock - all carbs over flows being tied together and exiting out that single nipple in the picture?) - I wonder if its possible that one carb has a hung up float or improperly set float height and that is causing all the carbs to "overflow" because they are all tied together on yours.. The 1st Gens I am familiar with have individual overflow tubes coming from the top of each carb - a hose connects to each one of them - then the group of four hoses pass under the airbox to the rear - down the frame of the bike being held in place by passage wire - those hoses will appear in front of your center stand/mono shock if you have them.. If what I am thinking is true and your bike does not have these tubes - it may be difficult to figure out what carb is problematic...

Your welcome Homi - hope something in there helps in some way.. About those security screws on the carb covers.. Personally I would keep the money I would spend on a security screw bit (Harbor Freight does carry a cheap set though), take a small punch and nock that little center piece out of the screw and use an allen wrench to remove the screws (can also use a small vise grip or even a center punch at an angle on the side of the screw to break it loose if your careful). Now take your money - go down to Ace Hardware and either pick up 4 new normal screws to replace those security screws with OR,, get fancy shmancy like some of these guys do and spend the cash for a complete set of stainless allens.. Either way works.. Another word of advice,, if ya got a left over screw collection jar (come on,, admit it,,, your one of us,,, I KNOW ya got a left over screw jar) DO NOT put those security screws in there - if you do = EVERY TIME YOU GO TO YOUR JAR TO FIND A SCREW YOU KNOW WHAT THE FIRST THING IN YOUR HAND WILL BE!!!

You can check it but it seems like a plugged tank vent is actually gonna cause starvation,, not flooding, cause the tank is in vapor lock if its vent is closed and fuel cant move.. The vent attaches to the top of the tank under that rubber piece that is wrapped around the fill spicket. If you remove the right side cover - you will see the vent hose running down the back bone of the bike and will see a small one way valve in it.. I have had that one way valve go south and cause vent loss - if you wanna check it you can remove the line on top of the valve, blow on the tube going up to the tank = should be open, suck on the connector on top of the valve and you should be able to draw thru it but not blow thru it.. Come to think of it,, I did have a Gold Wing (it was an 85 special - Hondas first shot at EFI - crazy thing had more wiring in its harness than the space shuttle) at the shop that was running lean enough that it ran hot enough that it boiled the fuel in the tank. If the fuel in one of our tanks ever got hot like that with that little one way valve in the vent line it could build pressure way beyond the 3 and 1/2 pounds the fuel pump applies to the float valves (I had a fuel pump go bad in the Utah Mountains one time and got out of there but running the vent line up to my mouth and keeping pressure with my breath = was plenty to keep the bowls full and keep er running - not very much pressure needed).. You aint got hole in exhausts blowing on the fuel tank have ya? Stick with us and, like mentioned, keep those matches in your pocket - someone will hit the answer..

Some really good input thus far.. Hey Jav,, take us back to where it all began will ya.. Give us some back ground.. How long had the bike been sitting before you began this carb adjusting business? How long had it sat since it ran properly - has the bike ever ran properly for you or is this something that you inherited like this? Did you experience some major engine flooding that led you to redo the float height in the first place? Any hydralocking? Any chance you got fuel in the crankcase? Never worked on an 86, not sure if this is applicable - MK1's have a black equalizing "air box" under the TCI - thinking Yamaha called a YSCI or something like that - maybe someone knows whether the 86 had em - maybe you know.. Is this the box your talking about getting fuel in? Racking my brains trying to understand what you are refering to - knowing what you are talking about there may lead to a solution.. I do know that fuel contaminated places where vacuum can pull fuel from can cause all kinds of strange things.. Had many 2 strokes get raw fuel in the crankcase from leaky float valves - run for second and foul the plug - or not ever start but have a soaked plug with gas off and carb drained - drive the unknowing (and even the trained mechanic too sometimes) nuts.. Also seen stuff like this with vacuum operated fuel regulator on a fuel rail or even vacuum operated petcocks if either lost the internal control diaphram letting fuel into the vacuum line where it ends up flooding the motor - sound like something you might be dealing with? Would sure like to know exactly what black canister your refering to - any chance you could snap a pic?? Raw fuel dripping anywhere,IMHO, is a good indicator of an overfueling source - might not be a bad idea to lazer focus on that!!

an antique BB gun:178: here we go again... and their off.... Puc opens the bid at 50 bucks... fiddy fiddy fiddy,, do I hear 60? Auctioneer stops the auction for a special announcement,,, 'I know this aint Ebay but we are still under some constraints,,, if the President of this lop eared varmint VR Motorcycle Club catches wind of us holding an auction while we're standing in the water hole ya'll may all end up on probation so HURRY UP and bid!!! ***** I still got my old Antique BB gun Blue Book around here somewhere - I will see if I can find it, snap some shots of values in there just for kicks you guys.. Just remember this though,, its OLD so it will be wayyy off - PLUS,, even when it was "new" it really didnt have much relevance = I sold a lot of my stuff at well over stated value!! And yep Hummingbird - $1100 was not uncommon.. I had a first round Benjamin push rod pump that brought 3700.. We are talking 1800's stuff = old indeed BUT,, sure makes ya wonder why someone would pay that kind of cash for a BB GUN!!! Now,, about those crows,,, used to LOVE hunting them!! Had Owl decoys and used call recording to draw em in and all that.. Loads of fun!! While that good old bull barrelled 22-250 Remington of mine would EXPLODE them rascals at 300 yards no matter where ya hit - I TOTALLY get the impenetrable feather comment brother!! = even with a Shot Gun!!! My boy and I used to love shooting em in flight and I gotta tell ya - head on while on the wing,, or even side shootin them rascalions -their feather arrangement and thickness made em one tough target... We found "seat of the pants" while flying straight away to be the most effective - problem was,, those birds are one smart cookie - seemed like they would always make sure they flew at an angle to us ,, speaking about crows and the way they fly... Just got message from Flyinfool in my private messages.. Says something about me being wrong in a comment I made to him about it only taking a half hour to cover the 81 mile distance between us over Lake Michigan "the way the crow flies"... Being of the engineering mind that Fool is and probably thinking I mistook the distance or failed to fully understand ground speeds or something - he came back with something like "1/2 hour to cover 81 miles? = you really messed up in your calculations on that one" and then he had a bunch of mathematical stuff in there and a snide comment about me using an illegal ICBM filled with snow to accomplish the task .. Havent responded to him yet but a couple things he obviously over looked: 1. I ride a legal MK1 1st Gen (us MK1 riders dont need no stinkin ICBM's) so my perspectives of space and time are always gonna be in fast forward.. 2. Even a crow's speed of flight can be increased if he is angling down and using gravity to his advantage... And then,, I also have to admit to him when I get around to responding to him that I actually did make a mistake when I sent him that message about the crow... Jeff,, if your reading this,,, I meant to say "as the FALCON flies" :rasberry::rasberry::rasberry::moon::moon::moon::moon:

Had a blast collecting them,, ended up with over a thousand guns and all kinds of associated BB gun paraphanalia after a lifetime of it.. Had stuff dated all the way back into the late 1800's.. Dont know if you remember but the early 60's to mid 70's the major BB gun manufactures were really into cloning actual guns.. Got into collecting those pretty heavy.. Always loved doing actual gun shows and usually BB guns would show up there for cheap - always dragging something home with a couple real ones,, couple bucks here and there.. Also flea market and yard sale stuff.. Fun way to buy/sell "guns" without the hassle of getting a purchase permits plus the big dollar outlay.. After selling our bike business and moving into our house here, had to move the stuff in - told the wife,, wowzy - didnt know I had so many BB Guns (actually I did - just said that for an excuse LOL).. Time to simplify life.. Put a bunch of em on E-Bay,, sold great!! Most x10 and up of what I had into em.. Then one day I get a notice from E-Bay - gun violation (probably same person who wrote the Craigs ad Unc posted).. Wrote em back,, what da heck - they are antique BB guns for crying out loud... Read up in Ebay rules,,, NO FIREARMS!! Only non-lethals with "orange" tips allowed - oopss,, my bad.. Bought some orange tape - stuck em on there - back to selling BB guns.. Couple months later - notification one year suspention from E-bay!! My kids all laughed at me and called me a "gun runner".. Told all their friends about their outlaw dad busted for selling BB guns on E-Bay... Then found Gunbroker.com.. Same set up as Ebay actually but gun selling friendly.. Pretty neat place to check out if ya never have.. Sold bunch of em on there.. Problem was I found out how finicky gun buyers can be - even BB gun buyer.. Wayy to honest and kind hearted,, refunded money for a couple guns folks not happy with and never got em back - oh well.. Forget that idea.. Next trick - stuck em on AmericanAirguns.net = all for one money.. Guys from all over the world contacted me,, never knew air gun collecting was so popular.. Even shipped some off shore.. The pics you see in other post and here are final pics of the final sell off.. Some guys from out east came out with a van - bought everything I had left and paid me cash.. Was fun!! sorry for yet another Unc = what do I owe = like a thousand or something ... :lightbulb:Come to a Puc's Meet, Greet and Eat Meat this year and I'll pay ya back in all ya can eat Hot Dogs!! :missingtooth:

Exactly!! brought back childhood memories.. In the church parking lot next to our house where I grew up.. Was over there riding round and round on my Bonanza minibike.. Pastors Kid comes walking out,, I stop to say hi.. Says he wants to ride my bike... Famous question - You ever ride before? Shakes his head yes.. Climb off, he climbs on - turns the throttle and takes off - no turning - headed across the parking lot - still no sign of turning - going faster - straight as an arrow right head on into the side of the brick wall of the church.. Over the bars - splat.. Ran over, shut off my bike,, you ok? Yep.. Thought you said you rode before? = Thought I knew how,, Congrats on selling the scoot Doug,, all the best on picking up your next one!! If you decide what your looking for and wanna let me know I will keep a weathered out for a good deal on one..

Hey Unc,, just to show you it wasn't ol Pucster who wrote dat funky Craigslist ad!!

and from that day forward every time Roller did a little "pffffft" and someone would look at em and say "you do that?" = Roller would respond - "it's my brothers fault - he shot a hole in my balloon back there and

Cant believe everything ya read Bongo = thats why they invented pictures and videos

Remembering when I was a kid - got my first BB Gun.. My dad teaching me gun safety and all that.. Did just fine till one day, probably after watching Little Joe Cartwright or Lucas Macain as The Rifle Man shoot a hard kicking rifle, I got to wondering if my little BB gun had any "kick" to it.. Went outside, cocked the lever on that little "Red Rider" - put the stock butt against my lip and pulled the trigger.. WOWZY - even the non-hurting end of a BB gun can hurt cha!! Even got a fat lip out of that one.. My Dad had a hard time keeping from laughing about it - looked at me and said "never thought about teaching ya not to do that" LOL.. Bottom line - I dont necessarily agree with the writers summation that BB guns are inherintly dangerous - at a minimum, they do serve the very practical service to mankind by insuring most of us gun toting Americans will probably not get our teeth knocked out by placing a loaded shotgun or rifle stock against our mouths and pulling the trigger to see how bad they kick.. The End PS = good one Unc!!

OUCH!! Dont know anything about bone spurs Gary but - wowzy does that sound painful!! Got my thoughts and Prayers Up for getting it fixed!! Puc

LOVING this thread and wishing you ALL the best Spokane!!! Got TONS of great input happening around here as always - WAYYY AWESOME!! Gotta say this comment right here = """F.Y.I. = I am making sure the engine is running properly before investing to much time / money - Just getting started on it now, and as soon as I get back from the dentist today I will be checking the Valves then refitting carbs and starting the old girl back up again""" is exactly where my mind would be - very very wise move IMHO!!!! Get er done Spokane!! Puc

Gotta LOVE my Hero Fool - always making stuff better!! Hey Jeff,, thinking the way an oil filter works - oil flows in thru the center "bolt" - forced out thru the filter and exits out of the holes in the base around the center bolts - is this correct? If this is correct,, what about designing a spin on leaving the original canister in place as an oil cooler? Machine the top of the OEM cannister to seal the o-ring of the spin on - hope ya get my drift? With the space of the cannister now being void of the original narrow filter = more space for additional oil for cooling - bikes would hold closer to 5 quarts of oil and have additional cooling = not a bad thing... Puc = taxing Jeffs brain in a positive way to keep him from dwelling on sn,,, never mind,, aint gonna say it:2143:

Continued from post 5 - Satisified 3 years of storage had not compromised the tank and the carb bowls were not over flowing from plugged float valves and/or the jet circuitry isnt plugged, I would now take a long screw driver - reach down into the throat of carbs and gently open the slides one at a time - release them and make sure they return to full bottom without sticking. Next I would pinch off the line coming from the anti freeze res down at the Rad cap, snap off that little keeper under the rad cap that always gets in the way of removing the cap and pull the cap - take a look inside and see if she still has juice in there.. Now I would pull the drain on the water pump - drain the system, release the clamp on the hose and let the res empty too. Put the plug back in and refill the system with good stuff. Next I would do an oil change - complete with new filter so that 3 year old paper filter that may be disinigrating in the filter canister has no chance of ruining a good motor when I fire her up. Now I would replace the plugs as suggested by Video Arizona. Now I would cycle the fuel pump again and bring the carbs all the way to full again - slip the choke to full open - push the button and start er up. I would move her off choke as quickly as possible to keep from fouling my new plugs. While she's sitting there idling I would look down at the oil check window and see what kind of oil flow I was getting from the oil pump while I "spit check" the headers for tempt to make sure she is hitting on all four (can also be done with temp laser but spit checking like a hot iron is more fun). Satisfied she's running on all four and now having the choke fully off - I would wick up the throttle and watch the carb slides dance to make sure they are all bouncing somewhat equally.. I would also take a peak at the voltage gauge on the dash, I would watch to see if she drops down to 12 volts at idle and climbs somewhat close to 14 volts at a throttle twist. I would run it - variating the R's with the throttle up to tempt until the cooling fan comes on just as the temp gauge needle passes into the red. I would let the fan run until it pulls the needle down to normal range - knowing these scoots like to run at 3/4 needle on the temp gauge. Temp looks and functioning good, I would wick on her a couple times and shut er down.. Now I would replace the air filter and cover and hook up the sync gauges on the carbs and sync em out (not fully necessary at this time if ya dont have gauges - just something I would do). Now I would press down on the rear brake and release it. The center stand will be holding the rear wheel off the ground and I would reach back and spin the rear wheel to see if the rear brake is sticking. If it is I would open the bleeder on the caliper and see if doing so releases the rear brake. If it does I would clean the back flow orfice in the rear master. If releasing pressure at the bleeder doesnt help I would smack the caliper with a rubber mallet and knock the pistons to the point that the caliper relaxes. With the caliper relaxed, remove the support bolts and slide the caliper away from the rotor and remove it. I would now pull the pads, press down on the rear brake pedal and watch the pistons carefully to see who is sticking.. I would carefully work the pistons out to just over a full pads length and then proceed to clean them one at a time by wrapping a strip of t-shirt material around them - sprayed with carb or brake cleaner I would pinch the material around the pistons and clean em real good. Look carefully for pitting/marring on the pistons.. Force the pistons back in and them push them back out with the pedal and redo.. Do until all the pistons are moving freely.. Now do the front brakes - remember that the left front is linked to the rear pedal. Right front is front lever. Complete the brake going thru with a complete fluid change like mentioned. Easy and cheap insurance!! Now I would order up a set of new pads like Bongo mentioned - personally I would stay away from high end - long wear pads and stick with organics cause I LOVE the feel in braking they provide BUT that is just personal preference. I would also carefully clean the pins like Bongo mentioned and also make sure you have the tin keepers back in place correctly that ride on top of the pads. Another thing I would check carefully is the fit of the new pads into the calipers. I have discovered on many occasions that even the paint on new pads can be just enough to cause the pads to stick in the calipers. Just make sure the pads move freely on the pins and in the calipers as the pistons force em out. Now I would take a peek at those GORGEOUS white letter Dunlop "E-2"s you got on there.. WOW I miss those tires!! Anyway, I would check em closely to see if they could handle a few hundred miles of test riding.. If so I would air em up - 45 in the rear, 42 in the front. As mentioned by Video Az = Pull the cover on the clutch hydraulics at the master and the rubber cover down at the slave - I would carefully bleed in a fresh fluid swap there and when done, I would - again carefully so I dont squirt fluid all over - I would work the clutch lever lightly and watch the bleed back orfice in the bottom of the res to make sure it was open and working properly.. Satisfied I would button up res and pull the clutch a few times making sure I had good clutch. Put the seat back on, leave the tank cover - saddle bags - side covers off I would head out for a real good test ride.. Satisfied all was well in the steering and "Feel" of the bike having been in an accident and knowing for sure I had what seemed like a really good chance at a bike with TONS of great miles in her (which I have NO doubt - you do!!). I would drop the air pressure out of the front forks while out playing with it.. Stand the bike up right and look down at the fork seals - notice how much distance between the fork seals and the lines on the fork tubes indicating bottom travel.. Is it less then 2 1/2 inches? Time for Progressive Springs if it is (and it probably is - they have ink pin springs from the factory in there). Head home, climb on Ebay or Amazon or where ever.. Order a new set of tires of your liking, some Progressives, some 12.5 weight fork oil.. While waiting for those products to come - I would pull the covers on my carbs and thouroughy check the diaphrams for pin holes. Look carefully where the diaphrams come into contact at the carb body - they love to crack in that area. Also check any creases in the rubber material for pin holes. I have found Yama Bond 5 to be the best sealent for patching pin holes - have ridden successfully thousands of miles on repaired diaphrams.. Replacing em is an option too. When putting the slides back in, I like to put my finger in em and feel their slide action carefully - looking for any sign of tightness.. Cleaning the carb body where the slide glides with a rag and carb clean will usually make em slide nicely.. Make sure the little o-ring is in place on where the carb cover meets the body before replacing.. Button er up and redo a carb sync. Spoon on the new tires but pull the drive shaft - check the universal and grease the shaft splines when ya do. Also grease the drive pins down on the rear wheel and the drive gears where the rear wheel meets the rear end.. Make sure you have the spacer in place between the rear wheel bearing on the drive side and slip the wheel back on. Make sure you have the spacer for the rear caliper mount on the outside of the mount when you slide the axle in so the caliper mount doesnt pinch the caliper.. Drain the forks, pull the caps, pull the ink pen springs, drop in the progressives, set the pre-load at 1 inch using either PVC or Copper (I like Copper). Refill with fresh fluid.. Follow the instructions of Video Arizona on putting in new wires and repairing the Class issues to get her perfect! Put the covers back on her, slip a sleeping bag on the back end and head for places unknown.. Hope that all helps in your "gettin er road ready" endeavor!! Puc

Hearing that brother!! Would LOVE to ride shot gun in the cab of that great big gorgeous tractor of yours while cradling a 22/250 doing varmint control!! Would even be willing to wear a cloths pin on my snoot and doing the burying as we cleaned up the farm.. Had a little experience with doing that years ago.. Staying with a buddy at his parents farm (they were hog farmers), guieneies (funny looking birds) went crazy about 2 am,, grabbed the shotguns and ran out the door.. Heard the chickens screaming up a storm - first thought was fox.. Look at my buddy when we got to the chicken coup - could hear wrestling inside, said I'll open the door and you blast em. Shined the light in, animal took off running around inside the chicken coop = got half the word "SKU" out and buddy pulled the trigger.. OH MY GOSH - and I thought they smelled bad when killed onthe road!! TOTALLY different - instantly brought tears to my eyes - thinking like tear gas.. WOWZY!! You ever see em Casey? Have spent a fair amount of time in the Black Hills but not much riding at night. I do know I camped way back on that two track that leads west toward the waterfall away from that lodge down in Spear Fish Canyon. Rode Tweeks (my 1st Gen) thru there over to Devils Tower one time and camped on the quad trail not to far from the Wyoming State line (small sign way back in there). Lots of Elk all night long, then heard Cougar (mountain lion) screaming = chasing something.. Place is WILD for sure!! They are AWESOME animals! You guys got a wolf population? I always stop at that camp ground where the guys raises Wolves,, on Iron Mountain Rd - right at the intersection where you turn right to go to Needles Highway.. Always meant to ask him if there is a wolf population in The Hills but always forget to... Nice people - good place to camp if ya been long on the prairie or up in the mountains and need a shower... Do love your area!!! Hey,, if I make it out there this year for the Rally - would love to hook up - maybe Pie at the Pie Butt 26.2 in Newell at the Blue Line Diner if BJ puts it on this year??? Would love to say howdy!!

WOWZY WOW WOW HOMI - FROM WHAT I CAN SEE = SHE'S A DANDY!! Looking at the stock grips, noticing the exhaust shrouds still in place, seat condition , sider cover vents dont look to distorted and what appear to be fairly clean fork bottom sliders - gonna guess she REALLY does only have 29k on her = YOU DONE GOOD PARTNER!! I see MANY MANY great miles of smiles sitting right there!!! ? - how much wrench time ya got under your belt.. Been around carbed scoots or just scoots in general? Give us a resume on skill level.. If it were mine,, thinking this is what I would do... I would center stand it, pull the side covers over the carbs and the lowers to expose carbs and pipes, pull the rear bag assembly (I only know MK1's as they are all I have owned = easy to remove one bag at a time, thinking on the MK2 like yours you can pull a few bolts and remove both bag assemblies and that rear cross piece in one piece - worth asking someone like Flyinfool , bongobobny , OrlinEngh (Orlin - Shrek and I were talking about this when you guys picked up my 86 - @Shrek would know but I dont think "Shrek" is his proper name?) , Marcarl , yammerDan or a host of others would know the answer to that.. Anyway, get the bags off it.. Pull the battery cover back off. Pull the seat off.. Pull the air cleaner cover and check the air filter area for mouse nesting. Pull the filter so I can look into carb. Under the seat and on top of the fuel tank your will find a cover that accesses the tank for the fuel sending unit. I would pull the cover - easy to do. Slide the sending unit out, take a pen light and look into the tank and see if the tank is rusted - if it is you will want to eventually remove it for sealing or replacement.. If it looks clean, wrap you finger along the inside edge for a quick rub to check for rust on the ceiling OR stick a mirror in there and check it.. If its dirty and appeared like its gonna be a problem (dont take much rust to cause major carb issues) - I would go ahead and syphon out the old fuel to begin the process BUT not refill at this time.. I would then detach the fuel line input at the fuel pump and hook er up to an "IV" (temporary tank). If clean inside, I would syphon the fuel out thru the tank top while I had er open and put some fresh fuel in her.. Now turn on key with the kill switch in the run position.. Listen for the fuel pump to click thru a cycle = should only run for a couple seconds. Flip the kill switch off and then back on and the fuel pump will cycle again. Keep doing this till the fuel pump clicking noise slows down and stops = this means the carbs are full and the float valves are working properly. As your working thru this process watch inside of the carbs very carefully with a pin light.. Pay special attention to the tops of the carb throats and around the metering rods sticking out of the slides.. Watch for any sign of fuel building in these areas indicating stuck floats or weak needle n seats. Also watch in front of the center stand under the bike. Matter of fact, look closely under there and locate the four over flow hoses coming from the carbs on the bikes back bone - you should find them infront of the shock/center stand. Watch those hoses carefully when cycling the fuel pump for any sign of over flow.. Once satisfied that all is good, open drain valve on one carb at a time, drain hoses for the carbs are located directly under outside cross members between outside of carbs (there actually held there in little windows). Pull a hose out of the window - open drain on corresponding carb,cycle fuel pump and bleed carb off real good into a small glass jar until you KNOW your getting good clean fresh fuel - close up drain and go to next one - do all of them. Now cycle fuel pump and recheck to make sure it will pump up to pressure and not leak fuel anywhere again. Doing all the above before starting and running much more may save you from having to do a carb rebuild - its entirely possible that a previous owner drained the bowls on the carbs and your jets/internal carbs will be ok if they did.. Just getting started but fingers are getting tired.. I know its tempting to just take a shot a cleaning those calipers and taking her for a ride but trust me - it really is best to take it one step at a time so ya dont create more issues than necessary.. Maybe some one else will jump in here (GO FOR IT GUYS!!) and continue this essay before I get back here.. Hopefully this will get you headed in the right direction.. Puc WOW - she is GORGEOUS!!

Racking my brain on this one,, I sold Crude the V-Max so going strickly by memory here.. I know both he and my 1st Gens have frame stiffner bar that goes across above the oil canister but not sure if they were located in the same spot on the frame... I do know that the additional bar is probably needed for clearance because the spin on filter will stick out farther (the stock canister is fairly thin). This would be a really good question for the water hole = ask someone who has both to take a peek and see if they are the same.. Seems like Yammer Dan would know if the additional cross bar is needed on the 1st Gen.. Cha,, I considered that swap out too in the past.. Looked like a really great idea for ease of filter swap!! Only thing I questioned at the time was the amount of surface area of the aluminum finned cannister for oil cooling I would be loosing.. This would really have never been a concern for me except I LOVE the desert and did a lot of riding therein.. Figured those Mom Yam engineers didnt do those cooling fins on that filter canister for nothing and decided to give them the benefit of the doubt and rode out 5 bikes now with the stock system.. Something to think about if nothing else..

Not that I know nuttin about nuttin when it comes to understanding resistances, Ohms Laws (I do know about helmet and speed laws somewhat) or none of that engineering stuff BUT - thought I might add that our scoots do spec resistor plugs too. A long time ago I was yakking with a genuine, certified Mom Yam factory tech about some of this stuff.. I had discovered the resistor caps on my 1st 1st Gen and knew my plugs were spect out resistors. Had a plan formulating that getting rid of the plug cap resistors and resistor plugs (going to a simple D8ES) may result in some nicer, more effecient sparkin.. I was actually warned about potential TCI damage by doing so by that tech.. In my mind, I reasoned that because of the primary coil separation in windings as Bongo mentioned - how could this be.. Was told dont do it, not worth the risk of TCI damage (much less the radio interference that it might cause to those around me listening to radios and so forth).. @BlueSky,, I am very glad you posted this question.. Would LOVE to jump into the classroom here and listen to some electrical guru's bat that question around a bit.. If nothing more than a little better understanding of electronic interference came out of it I would even be thankful for that.. Good thread IMHO..

Wassup Homi!!! Congrats on the new scoot and :welcome1:to VR!!!!! Glad you found us!!! Before the hoards of lop eared Venture guru varmints around here start with their answers, let me do a little prying if ya dont mind? How long has the bike been sitting without being ran/ridden and does it run at all at this time, was it stored on its center stand, did you receive the correct paper work for it at purchase (check the VIN on the neck - nothing worse then putting a bunch of work/money into a bike you wont get to keep when finished = trust me. its happened more than once), how many miles showing on the odometer and are all the brake rotors showing wear (look carefully at rear and front left - tell us what you find)? Brakes - fluids may actually be the least of your concerns to start off with is why I ask all this. The more we know about your scoots current condition the more we can help Also, pictures are worth a zillion words around this joint.. Not sure but I think "trial" members are allowed to post pics during their trial period ( @Freebird - is this a true statement?).. To post pics you will need to use smaller pics (usual problem with pic posting is pics are to large). Thinking 1000x500 or less (I use 750x480ish) is largest you can use.. I set my Digital camera on "economy" mode and those pics work great - also can use "MS Paint"for resizing if needed = VERY easy to do - if you find you need help with any of that in the future let me/us know (or search our main forum page - scroll down and LOTS of info down yonder for this) - more than happy to help.. Have purchased MANY non[running - setting for a long time - 1st Gens myself with under 30k on em and chased em out to over 300k after getting em up and going = AMAZING scoots once they are sorted out - YOU ON THE RIGHT PATH!! Dont give up on your bike or us if your serious about wanting to make er go and you run out of time on your "trial period". This site is AMAZING, filled with knowledge and expertise = well worth the 12 bucks for a years membership - not a salesmen for VR,, just know what I know and not afraid to say so!!! All the best in your endeavor!! Puc