cowpuc

I am not so sure I would take the easy street on this one if I were Carl... As the Patriarch of that whole conglomeration, knowing what I know, I think would have a family gathering - set em all down and have a nice chat with them all about that precious little premature Wilhelmina... Our first born was born at home 2 months early. When she popped out into my hands I thought she was dead cause she didnt have any facial features - just tiny little lines where all that stuff was suppose to be.. Right after she popped out she instantly started growing (she bloomed like a flower opening up) and those lines turned into gorgeous little girly face features right before my eyes.. When we finally got to the hospital with her, the Doctors told us she would have to spend a lot of time in an incubator and we would probably notice her being behind other children by a couple years because of the tramua of being such a teeny preemy... Ummmmmmmmmmm,,, not so much..... By the time she was two she pretty much new she wanted to be a school teacher like her Mom and was well into doing her student teaching by practicing on her 1 year old sister showing her everything a 1 year old needs to know and then some.. By the time our other 2 kids came along, our little premature T.C. had aquired all the skills any full blown elementary school teacher could possibly have and was far from shy about letting all of us know it = at 5 years old, I clearly remember Tippy looking at her and saying "hey,,, I'm the Mom" on more than one occasion:sign20:... Just finish up that 6 hour lecture with "Yee Be Warned" and all will be fine Carl!!

So you have other drain/sewer pipes coming down a wall(s) that enter the concrete floor of your basement and that branch into that sewer line that runs under the concrete = meaning,, that is not just a single line going under your basement floor but is a line that has multiple connections to it all buried under the concrete before it exits the houses perimeter to head to sewer heaven? If this is not so and we are talking about a single line running under the basement and you dont have the room for a minimal 1/4" per foot drop over head,, think about this one.. Open up the end where you have already started and remove enough pipe that you can slide some 4" pvc inside of the 6" tile and end up with at least a couple feet of pvc sticking out past the outside edge of the house while still inside the original pipe.. I have worked on old houses that had lead filled joints (also had exposed non insulated wiring for lights and stuff with insulators like you would find on electric fences = talking OLD houses) connected to clay tile and then connected to a rubber connector that hooked up to modern day pvc that had a continual increase in pipe I.D. size while heading downstream and as long as it was (minimal 4" throughout though as that has always been "code" in areas I have worked) downward in size as you work downstream (think little waterfalls happening inside those pipes) = never had an issue this way BUT = go from bigger ID to smaller ID while going downstream = NOT GOOD = rotor rooter employee's dream come true .. That said, If you open the floor up where the pipe exists the wall to go out of the house and head to the sewer, split the clay pipe there at that spot, push the pvc thru the clay pipe from the spot where it is already opened up (you may very well not even have to use 1 long section of pvc, there is a good chance that a pvc "union" will slide inside the clay pipe while connecting two sections of pvc - if so, cut the pvc in 4 foot sections and glue up the unions in the hole and keep forcing the pipe thru the clay tile). In the process of doing this you will force the hunks of debris that are trapped inside the clay pipe under the concrete into the opening in the floor at the exiting end so you can remove it - if you do this dont forget to double check inside the pvc for remaining chunks of concrete now stuck in there before you finish sliding it thru the clay pipe leading outdoors.. If the pvc OD is small enough compared to the tile ID so you are able to use sections and unions - I would glue up a union on the end of the pvc that is going to land outside of the houses perimiter just to help in preventing backflow between the pipes and then do another one right where it enters the clay pipe inside the house as this will help permantently fill the gap. Gotta be a way here brother beyond spending them big bucks for someone to come in and do exactly what I am talking about I wish you we didnt have this 50 mile wide pond between us,, I would at least grab my little $80 SDS Chinese demo hammer and show ya how to knock holes in the floor = ratatatatatatatatatatatatatatatatatatatatatatattata:missingtooth: TRY THAT ONE ON FOR SIZE BRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

,, WHAT AN ABSOLUTE MIRACLE BABY GIRL PRINCESS DOLL Why she's cuter than a tri colored beagle pup howlin at her litter mates I tell ya = a straight up DARLING!!! You rascal Carl,,, you done got blessed BIG TIME!!! CONGRATS to you and Marca and a HUGE congrats the little ones Mom and Dad (and siblings?) = she is just PRECIOUS!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARIELLE and WELCOME TO THE FAMILY!!!! :clap2::dancefool:

Much better now that we have a picture to look at,,,, see that pipe looking thing coming down the wall toward the end of that hunk of pipe that cha dug up? Just cut into that puppy at the ceiling and run 4 inch overhead and down the wall where the clay pipe that runs under the concrete exits the foundation at. Then cut a whole in the floor there down to the clay pipe, cut the clay pipe and force a piece of 4" pvc into it a couple feet or so - at least far enough so you know you are outside the perimiter of the foundation in case you have to work outside on it in the future. Put an elbow on the pvc that enters the clay pipe and put a cleanout above it to attach the 4" coming down from the ceiling to so you can get a snake into the horizontal outside. Mud up the space between the clay and plastic with E6000 or silicone and leave the area open for a couple weeks so you can monitor it.. The last thing I would do unless absolutely necessary would be rebury that thing under the concrete.. BUT,, if it did have to stay under the concrete I wouldn't trust the the rest of the clay pipe even for a milli second = Murph has a history with me and one that is highly predictable = about 2 months after completion of patching up the area that you have exposed, I would be downstairs sharpening the turbo veins on the White Washer and my hyper sensitive ears would hear water running under the floor or my sniffer would smell that familiar odor of septic exhaust letting me know that Murph hadnt forgot about me and my under the concrete floor drain project ... Plain and simple,, I would at least open er up enough and remove enough clay pipe that I could KNOW all blockage was removed and that I could slide enough 4" Pvc inside the clay pipe that I knew I was a couple feet outside of the footing perimiter in case I had to work out there in the future (basically making a "stub" inside of the clay pipe so I could crack the clay open outdoors and BINGO = ready to finish the 4 inch run and hook up to the sewer!!). I would then run all new 4" down the wall if needed so I ended up with a clean out/elbow like the picture shows.. I have remodeled several houses thru the years and helped build a couple new too and gotta tell ya,, when it comes to plumbing - I have learned that its easier (because of my relationship with Murph) and much more durable to just replumb start to finish and even then its a crapshoot as I have had instances where I rip out a drain in my house and later that day my neighbor will be asking to borrow my pipe wrenches cause somehow me loosening a drain pipe at my house ends up causing a leak all the way over at his house

Good deal on a clean, stock V-Max IMHO.. Only 30 minutes to go and somebody is gonna end up with a FUN bike!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Yamaha-V-Max/232679927814

CODE VIOLATION!!!!! ,, page 920, sect. 31, article 55: thou shalt not rat out your brothers!! ,,,, :thumbsup::thumbsup: Now THAT lude rude crude Elude DEFINITELY has my attention Bay!!!! :sign Rock On::sign Rock On:!!

I used my air chisel for a while too but it was wayyyyy to slow... Either of these will do a great job and,, like I said,, when your done ya get to keep the hammer!!! The "SDS" works 100% better than the spring loaded chisel on an air chisel if that is what you were trying (thats what my air chisel is = spring holds chisel bit in).. Stick that pointed SDS chisel into the chuck and snap er in, grease the hammer head up good and WOWZY that sucker will go right thru a concrete floor LIKE NOW!! I cant remember if I had to pay extra for the chisel kit for mine - been a while but it seems like my SDS came with the bits.. Also remember, HF discount coupons are all over the place - ever Auto-RV has an HF page and they always have a 20% coupon in them.. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-18-in-SDS-Variable-Speed-Pro-Rotary-Hammer-Kit-63434.html or https://www.harborfreight.com/105-Amp-1-916-in-SDS-Max-Type-Pro-Variable-Speed-Rotary-Hammer-Kit-63441.html

One time Tip and I camped out behind a Loves Truck Stop out west right after hitting the truck stop showers.. It was breezy and warm (desert) so when I orientated the tent I did so placing the rain fly's opening so it would capture the breeze and force it over the sleeping bags... Having experienced the talcum powder like dust that covers the desert region I knew how much like Dry Wall dust that stuff could be but I never really thought about it being airborn all the time = thinking it had to be disturbed to be air born I never really gave it much thought and was shocked to find the inside of our tent covered with dust in just a few short minutes even though I couldnt visibly see the stuff in the headlight of the bike... I cant help but wonder if that talcum powder stuff wasnt caught up in the wind that Neil was experiencing = that stuff is soooo fine that it gets into everything....

Sometimes a little insite into what its like to be a "Puc" helps in situations like this: Tip and I have always enjoyed demoing new bikes just for the fun of it.. One of the things I noticed after doing this numerous times is how often she would comment that she didnt care for the "feeling of sitting on a pedestal" that she got from most modern day touring bikes.. She loves the closer to my level of height that our 1st Gens have always offered.. I also know from riding many bikes that have that same effect that there is something to the additional top heaviness that comes with just a couple inches change/difference in what I am talking about.. Fact is, IMHO, the more difference in height between the riders hips and the passengers hips the more prone to top heaviness (especially at speeds below the natural point when the gyro effect of the spinning wheels drops off) becoming an issue.. One of the interesting things found in this link was the ability to actually see/compare the differences in all the bikes in what I am talking about.. I know,, I am weird but I think about stuff like this

Thats because this is you: and this is we: when this becomes thee: then you shall see!!!!!!!!!!!:crackup:

The journey continues!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OUTSTANDING PIECE OF MOTORCYCLE LITERATURE = THANK YOU NEIL!!!!!!!!!! and a HUGE THANK YOU to Neil's new best friend who lives down the street and is letting our club member VentureFar test these bikes and put em thru real life CTFW experiences!! A double :thumbsup: to that person for treating Neil, and Ultimately us readers of these amazing articles so kindly!! THANK YOU!! https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/2018/03/01/iron-butt-comparison-2018-yamaha-star-venture-vs-personalized-2007-royal-star-venture/

Someday you will enter into "Historic Plate Time" and suddenly you will get to experience the shear enjoyment that your elders get out of a simple phone call discussing things like which way the fins should point on a oil filter housing when changing the oil on an old Yamaha...

Hey Jeff,, I had to break thru some concrete a while back and priced out renting a jack hammer.. I found out that I could buy a demolision hammer from HF cheaper than I could rent a jack hammer, went and bought it and it worked AWESOME plus I got to keep it for future use!! Worked a whole lot faster than a sledge hammer PLUS it was a lot more fun to operate!!!

,,,, :clap2::clap2::thumbsup:!! VERY well done my brother and an EXCELLENT read!!! Matter of fact,,, this is so well done that if I were a club moderator with all the power over man and beasts like they get to have, I would wave my magic wand and POOF - this thread would find its way over to the Gen 3 section = IMHO,, its that good!!! WHAT AM I SAYING!! We dont need no lop eared sneaky moderator varmint messing with us... I think I will just make a new thread over in that forum area highlighting your published article all by my own self!!!

Once again,, I LOVE your write up here VAz = VERY well done my friend!! I think that write up should be filed in the read only tech section under "looking for leak" or something - GOOD JOB brother!! The pic looking toward the mountains brought of joy to my eyes,, I really really really wanna go up there and ride/camp/ride/camp/ride/camp and so on and so forth = mostly riding and camping:173:.. Also,, I have a hunch that that staining on your left side cover may be rodent pee.. I have seen similar before.. Might not be a bad idea to pull your air filter and check for a mouse subdivision being built... Those little critters dont always apply for a building permit so sometimes its best to check and make sure they aint doing something illegal.. Glad all worked out with the filter housing:missingtooth:

I must be the only one who noticed that the snow this year had a slight tinge of yellow to it...

The first thing I would do would be something along the line of seeing if I could route a new 4" pvc path across the basement without digging up the floor.. Sometimes it's best to let sleeping dogs lie and just redo/rethink the whole scheme of things IMHO.

Just for you brother,,, hope it helps!!

It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination BUT, IMHO,, its still fun to play with!! Enjoy!! http://cycle-ergo.com/

So what could be happening is the high amp contacts inside the solenoid are cruded up.. This can cause a high resistance to current flow which will show up in a low amp supply hitting the starter.. The way it all works is there is the large +12dcv cable that connects to the battery goes to one side of those contacts in the solenoid. Then there is another high amp large cable that goes to the starter located on the other side of those contacts so when the contacts are made (or come together) the starter is hit with +12dcv high amps.. The solenoid also has small leads going to it which carry low amp +12dcv coming from the starter button on the right side of your bars = when the start button contacts are made (or come together) a coil within the solenoid is hit with low amp +12dcv which pulls the contacts together that allow the high voltage to flow to the starter.. You can test the solenoid by bypassing it and just hitting the high amp cable with +12 directly from the battery and that should roll the starter with full effeciency if you have a good battery and if you have a good connection at the battery.. Another thing often overlooked on our Ventures has to do with starter amature contamination.. I know many folks have gone to larger cables to overcome what appears to be a lack of amperage available and have done so successfully but I have found on more than one occasion that just cleaning up the original starter (get that dust out from between the grooves on the stator and communtator) and checking bearings that its not uncommon for the original 83 starters with OEM cables to return to as new umphhh... Only stating that because it is possible that the problem you are experiencing could actually be starter problems.. ***** Its also possible that its a ground issue too.. It never hurts when testing devices to run an extra ground wire directly to the device to insure your not over looking a simple ground issue.. A long time ago when I was a kid in High School my Electronics teacher showed the class how to use a test light in series with the ground circuitry to identify a bad ground = seems like if the ground was bad,, the light would light up or something like that.. I now wish I would have listened a little closer in High School cause some of that stuff we were taught would have come in real handy when dealing with stuff like this Cammy...

The only wire that connects to the starter comes directly from the solenoid..

Silly Rabbit ,,, even an old hound dog like me knows its best to wrap the bird in tin foil if ya cant control the grill temps GOOD IDEA THOUGH SNYPE = definitely something I will tell your new Grand Child that you thought of when the little rascal gets a little older!!!!

This product has also served me well thru the years Cammy... Because it's a dry lube, you may find it more to your satisfaction as it also doesnt collect dirt/dust.. http://www.jigaloo.ca/lubricant/1-jig-a-loo.html It also actually smells GREAT (until it drys) - sort of a motorcycle deodorant if you will..

:scared: :big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

I would be HONORED and THRILLED to get a peek of that chopped Pan of yours if ya find a pic of er bro = definitely right up my alley!! Those for real long bikes raked out past 38 degrees and surfin on above 12 over are magical IMHO.. The ride they produced when done right was second to none... I know what cha mean by it not being much,,, in fact,,, other than the amazing paint some folks stuck on em and the extreme care we had to take in getting the "trail" spot on so they didnt "flop" or go ape crazy in the steering like a grocery cart at high speed - none of em were really much , pretty simple really but WAYYYYY cool and fun in their basic bike soul!!!/ Yea bro,, if ya bump into a pic = I would LOVE to get a peek!!