cowpuc

:rotf: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRysrnWZ1SI

Hows you 2nd gear Ready,, been noticing any slippage or jumping happening? As far as the white smoke and not running up to temp on the left.. You might wanna pull the plug(s) (at least on the one that is running cooler) and take a quick pic of it for us.. If she's pumping water and your getting white smoke because of it the plug in the pot that its leaking into should show signs of it. Also, can you smell anti freeze in the exhaust? You could also drain down the coolant tank, pull the cap on the rad - see if it has oil/carbonish in the coolant - start the bike and run it and see if you get bubbles in the coolant in the rad and/or hit it with one of those rad pressurizers and see if you can push coolant into the top end.. You dont remember overheating the ol girl do ya Ready?? Truthfully,, I have ran these things out for a fair amount of hard miles and have yet (knock on wood) had a headgasket pop yet.. I am pretty sure though that, like most any aluminum headed varmint = overheat em,, even once and warpage is bound to take place... Just some thoughts...

Guessing that isnt a sparker,,, looking more like an oil drain plug with kibbles and bits stuck to its magnet....

What cha talkn bout Willis,,, I had nothing to do with nuthin... This is either another case of mistaken identity or one of those big brothers blaming everything on lil brother moments Another example? Many years ago, some buddies and I were rabbit hunting.. 4 of us had driven north into Michigan SnowShoe country in my 67 Cougar with the hounds and guns in the trunk.. Got late and started getting dark, opened the trunk - stuck the guns in - called the dogs but my Beagle named "Star" would not give it up (good rabbit dog). Standing there yappin, I noticed Star's flag (tail) whipping back and forth about 30 feet off the side of the dirt road,, all of sudden "BAWLLLLLL" = he opened up with tone that screamed "I JUMPED A :Bunny:".. Squinting to see in the looming darkness, I saw his tail coming at me at high speed, bent down just as the broke the edge of the two track = scooped up the live and tossed him in the trunk of my Cougar and a buddy slammed the lid.. :dancefool: Slowly opened the trunk with my lunch box opened in my hand... Reached in, grabbed the and stuck em in my lunch box.. All of going crazy with :clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::dancefool::dancefool:.. Got home, told my girlfriends dad about what happened (hunting with her brothers and another friend named Garv).. Her dad didnt believe us until I opened my lunch box and BOING = was rippin around their house.. Garv and Rod (girlfriends brother) worked together and during a lunch break the next day Rod starting telling a large group of fellow employees sitting around the lunch tables about what had happened... Got to the end,, all the guys were looking at Rod with that "ohhhh sure" look, Rod looked at Garv and said = "Garv was there, tell em Garv"... Garv looked at Rod and said "I have no idea what your even talking about"...

:sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On: :dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool::dancefool:

One of the reason's that i prefer to use hardened bolts and even washers when dealing with this stuff is that the softer medium grade stuff always seemed to me like it absorbed impacts when ya smack the puller bolt and any stretching or bending that may happen can really work against you.. If it were mine I would dismantle and dig thru my salvage yard like bolt accumulation and find some higher grade bolts and also something harder or thicker than the washers you have under those bolt faces where the bending is going on, or hit up our local Hardware for such. Something so when I smacked the center bolt the impact was not being absorbed in other ways than what I wanted.. Another trick that I have used many times in knocking out tie rods and ball joints that were 100% locked on in their tapered mount was an air hammer... Just put the end of the air hammer against the end of the joint, pull the trigger and POW!! Like mentioned earlier though,, be careful when doing this kind of stuff because the energy behind that flywheel will be unreal = I had a little tie rod come shooting off one time, hit me in the face and ended up with my teeth pushed thru my lip.. It would be awesome if you could get your hands on such a thing (cheap at HF) but if your stuck using a hammer to hit that center bolt it is important to remember NOT to use anything real heavy.. Your not trying to separate the crank bearings,, as mentioned by Corporal Newkirk mentioned - its the "vibes" your looking for = I would think a sharp blow with a 20 oz hammer would be fine.. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES though when working with this stuff too though,,, especially with hardened stuff like hammer faces and even that center bolt = they tend to shatter instead of bend... By the way Snype,, hopefully you are sure that the end of the center bolt is laying flatly against the end of the crank so deforming is happening there. I KNOW,, that tapered fit is TOUGH,, but you be tougher!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

https://www.walmart.com/browse/motorcycle/motorcycle-accessories/91083_1080484_7946546_1070264?page=1#searchProductResult

Yeppers,,, came thru loud and clear Cal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:dancefool::clap2: BEAUUUUUUUTIFUL!!!!! Looks like those two scoots are already becoming the best of friends:big-grin-emoticon:!! CONGRATS!!

Being of the old deer slayin denomination myself,,,,,, the is one of my favorite video's of the 708's capabilities!! ALL the best in your sale Jeff!!

Personally,, I like the "VentureFar Clamp-On's" and would probably purchase a set from Venture Far Inc. before I would go Kury.. Those "V.F.'s" are a little more my style Sly..

Not really sure what exactly is happening but I REALLY wanna congratulate you Rodney on getting to go back to work too!! Health issues have landed me in early retirement now and I gotta say that not earning a living/working is a double edged sword = IMHO.. I have a buddy who is my age and still driving OTR truck full time who recently commented that he is considering joining me and taking early retirement too but decided differently when I reminded him of the fulfillment associated with earning a living (not just $$ related = not all treasure is gold or silver).. IMHO,, staying busy working full time is not only honorable,,, it is also extremely healthy!! Put in another way = cutting/loading and splitting your own firewood (we heated with wood for many many years) warms more than just your outside!!

Fixed it!! that gorgeous scoot of yours is ALLLLLLLL better!!!!!

Quick cultural question for you Carl = Can you Canuckian's get away with mentioning that one track is no longer enough room to your Trainers Carl?

YAAAAAAAH!!! Like this one that even comes with a camper so you CAN'T loose your tent poles no matter how hard you try bro!!! http://gl1800riders.com/forums/6-gl1800-classifieds-4-sale-owner/406097-2002-trike.html

I am thinking those are like a grade 5 (three slash) SAE Snype... Personally,, I would hop on down to ACE or somewhere and see if I could find some higher grade bolts to use.. If I recall,, metric "10's" are almost an additional ton of umphhh... Problem I have had using light duty stuff on pullers like that is that they stretch like crazy when you hit that hardened center bolt with the hammer or torque... If you find metric threaded bolts marked with at least 6 slashes instead of a "Y" shape 3 slash those would be fine too = that would be the equivalent of a +10 metric mark.. Make sense?

Right there with ya brother = does look like the thing just fell over before takeoff.. CRAZY!!!

Here is another take on the whole thing Fool,, see if this works for you.. Same video footage included..

cant see the marks on top of the three bolts = are those hardened? Use hardened bolts tightend in at least as much as the OD of the bolt - make sure the puller face is squared off nicely and then tighten down the center puller bolt.. A little lube on the center bolt going thru the puller body helps a LOT too!!

My Dad always told me that my sniffer worked better than any lop eared Hound Dog he ever did own,,,, personally I think its some kind of "Force Be With Me" timing thing Snype.. Wish I was there,, I would GLADLY drill the grill for ya!! Thems some good lookin dogs you got there!!

I would,, just take your time and dont let that puppy nail ya when it come flying off there!!!!

,, looky looky,, thats that confounded phase 2 updated stator cooling wire thingy that Fool gave me a clue about a long time ago!! KEWL!!!!!!!!

Indeed,, or,, a big old whoopin pair of Channel Locks,, = my favorite tool.. A pair of 16 inch Channel Locks should be in every tool box LOL.....

Motorcycle tie down strap wrapped around the flywheel and then hook the hook on a saddlebag guard or something. Wind it so it tightens as the flywheel turns,, sort of like making a quick fix in a pinch strap wrench.... Gotta be a way,, where there's a will there is always a way!!

Ty,, I've been down for long enough now that this simple little suggestion has probably already been made and I missed out on seeing it but,, maybe not so I will toss it out here.. If you are talking about popping a fuse (proving you have a short to ground somewhere) - if you pull the faulted fuse, then build a pig tail (or use a 12 volt test light but I like doing what I am telling you with the pig tail cause it stays in place better while I am fooling around with the harness) for the fuse panel where the fuse plugs in.. Simply use two male spade terminals crimped onto a piece of wire so you end up with one spade touching one fuse blade connector and another spade touching the other connector = basically ending up with a fuse with no fusable connector to blow - get it? Now attach a 12vdc light socket with light in it to that two wire pig tail = a tail light off an old bike works fine but so will anything holding like an 1157ish - dont use a headlight though as it will draw to much.. Now when you turn your key on, if that circuit is gone to ground the 12v light will light up as it has a source and its grounded somewhere = get it? If its not grounded and you were not blowing a fuse - the jumper wire your light is hooked to would only have a source - it would not be grounded. Now, with the key on and the light shining away, start unplugging devices associated with that circuit.. Everything is suspect.. You could looking at running light on bike having lost its element to ground internally = still working but shorted out.. Ya just keep fiddling till the light goes out.. Dont be afraid to move harnesses around some - sometimes just jiggling wires will cause the light to blink and instantly hook you up with the source.. Also dont forget to test the leads heading down to the stator - its not impossible for shorts to occur there... Any of this make any sense?? Hope so!! If I one of the clubs actual electronics guru's now come on here and tell me I am nuts and correct my idea we will both gain so consider the "source" of your logic here too

Hoeky spamokey and WOWZY WOW WOW WOW!!!!!! Having been on the salt at Bonneville numerous times I can attest that even though that surface is amazingly flat and perfect for doing that kind of stuff,,,, at those kinds of speeds in that light of a vehicle - it probably dont take make of an irregularity in the surface to lift the machine up and get air under it resulting in it taking flight like that puppy did -and there irregularities out there!! Another positive thing about crashing on the salt is there really isnt much to run into out there,,, just slide and slide and slide... WOW that is amazing!!! WOWZY = +300 mph!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: