cowpuc

Careful using that word "Vintage" there brother!! That Red and White Hooly Popper in your pics was my favorite lure for killing bass just a few short years ago and I sure as heck aint vintage ya lop eared varmint:backinmyday: Best of luck figuring this one out Raggy and I hope you make a BILLION dollars on em!!!

Hey Patch, I did a little 2 second research into the subject by asking google this: "is there an exact rpm where torque crosses horsepower" And this was the first thing that popped up: Horsepower is a unit of power. ... Going back to the formula: HP = (Torque x RPM) / 5252 we can see that at an engine speed of 5,252 RPM Torque and HP are equal. That's why when we see a graph of Torque / HP we see the lines always cross exactly at 5252 RPM. For me, the reason this is applicable to engine building and tuning is if you know that your build parameters involve staying predominately below 5252 R's (which in your case it does) than Torque becomes the predomenent intent on the build. Now in the case of the carb conversion, it is going to involve some form of intake track/manifold. IMHO, different configurations (length of intakes) of the intakes will have different results in fuel/air mixture effeciency in the combustion chamber. In your case, I am thinking that a plenum with intake tracks tigged inside to achieve desired width and length of travel would work awesome. I have found that longer/narrower intake tubes will move the peek torque on any given engine down = farther away for 5252 R's. Also, by developing a plenum with inner intake track, one single side mount CV Carb would all of a sudden become an option. Following me?

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I KNEW I could count on you varmints!! THANKS GUYS! And 40, THANK YOU for the link!! Just what the doctor ordered brother!! Maybe visit that place while we are down in Ohio for Maintenance Day!!

Seeee,,, now THAT is what I am talking about!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:clap2: You lop eared living in rocket makin country varmint,,, Puc thinks Ecks come some kind of geniusness flowin in the beaner of his = THAT IS AWESOME @Eck I ALWAYS loved the adjustable bars on my 1st Gens and for the life of me, could never understand why on earth they did not become standard in the industry. In looking at new scoots, particularly the new Wing, I noticed a scoot set up with "HeliBars" and was very impressed!! Tell ya one thing, if I were still riding long distance and putting the big bucks for a new scoot,, I would give my brother Eckster a call and get the scoop on doing one of his Bar Builds wayyyyy before I would lay the bucks out for even HeliBars = JUST GORGEOUS YOU GENIUS!!

Feeling a little better these days and thinking seriously of grabbing an older 4x4 Jeep or P.U. for Tip and I to toss the guns and gear in and go thrash around on in the thousands of acres that we own (State and Federal lands) for some shootin and hootin fun. Michigan has a Historic Plate deal they offer (have ran em on my bikes for years) that are good for many years (cheap insurance too) and I gotta stay under 1994 to run em. The REAL downside of finding something worthy is that Michigan is a salty State (better than dieing on icey roads!!) which REALLY takes its toll on our vehicles. For that reason, I am trying to figure out some from of boundry line to the south (or west, or east) of us where salt is not used on roads so I can jump on Craigs and begin the search for a rust free, older 4x4. How about it neighbors to Michigan? Who out there can vouch for your area that no-sir-eeee = no salt on our roads and rust issues are a minimum??? It's us, or rust.. Puc

The reason that I asked if we could agree on that one fact is that that number (5250) is a baseline for building IMHO. That said, your earlier statement that you limit your revves to 6500 rpm is another baseline in building as it gives a parameter to build around and, if 5250 is where hp becomes the relevant measurement of power and torque becomes a thing of the past at that point, then intake/exhaust flows, carburation, cam options, valve timing all now have a source to build to to obtain effeciency. Perhaps a short study to determine whether or not the standards of which I have built by thru the years (that 5250 is in fact a hard, unchangeable number) hold any merit BEFORE we continue in figuring out the carb build? What say you?

WAYYYY COOL ON YA SLY!!!!:dancefool::dancefool:y One of the HUGE problems with my MK1 Standard is the magazine, as sure as there are a couple of hair missing on top of my head, I pretty much gotta stick with Ruger 9 rounder's. I should have up graded to a shooter like yours Sly a long time ago.. Does yours have an adjustable rear sight on it? Is it Bull Barreled? And last but not least,, are those mags you just ordered larger than 9 round (dont know if there is such a thing even for yours?). Bottom line though = CONGRATS ON THE FIND!! And, as always, you are more than welcome on me doing my part to help my brother spend it ,,, :Bunny::Bunny::Bunny:

That story is nothing short of AMAZING @RandyR,, I am struck with and stand in and the entirety of it brother = THANK YOU for taking the time to chime in here!! I also wanna thank you for your service to the good ol in our effort to stay free = THANK YOU!! Your website is flat out awesome and looking great too!! Got a really good thing going there, all the very best in its continued growth! On a side note, a maybe of interest to and something else that others in the club may be able to relate to. My very first "real" motorcycle (at least in the mind of an extremely young Puc) was a "Sear's, shift on the handlebar by rotating the clutch handle on its perch, 2 speed, 2 stroke moped". I was a young back yard mechanic back then with very little cash so I did all my own work on that thing. I will never forget the first time I had to locate parts for it and was very well pleased to find out that the local Sears store could obtain ANY part I ever needed just by ordering it - even though the bike was a '59. I also remember being amazed that the little data plate on the lower right hand side of it's frame upright where the serial number was, was clearly stamped with the manufacturer name. Guess what my 1st bike REALLY was,, it was DEFINITELY NOT a Sears machine,, it was a Steyr Daimler Puch and, as those beautiful collectable shooters of yours, was also clearly and proudly stamped = Made In Austria:banana: Pretty cool eh!! By the way,, I still have the frame for that puppy in my basement and have since picked up a later model (the red one) of the same machine (very complete) that I have planned to, some day, combine the two and get my first scoot back on the road again.. Yeah,,, right

I have gone dual disc on the front of my 1st Gens a couple times and eliminated the linked brake system but I have never done a complete fork swap and R1 caliper update so consider that with this. I do ride an R1 though and REALLY love the stopping power on that sweet heart so I TOTALLY get the idea of doing the project (especially the front brakes - there is NOTHING better on a scoot than really really good front brakes IMHO). On the same token though, I think it just might be prudent to make sure the current OEM system is working up to par and experiencing it before investing the time/effort/bucks into such an endeavor. Personally I have found that set up and maintained properly - the OEM's are workable. I think I would start out with new fluid and bleeding the system to make sure I have full hydraulics. Then I would do the ol clean the pistons routine (as shown in vid) until those puppies slid like a kid with a saucer on fresh fallen white wash. Then I would clean the rotors so clean they squeaked and then I would grab a good set of Organic Pads for each caliper. I would also carefully lube all pivot points on the levers and linkages so I knew she all worked as freely as possible. While none of my 1st Gens EVER stopped like my R1 (that sucker will do a stoppie at speed if your not careful), I very seldom end up using the rear brakes (am an avid front braker) and have been very impressed with the stopping power of those 1st Gen Front Brakes even under the weirdest conditions..

Speaking of talkin shootin irons in a Bike Club's meetin place (and seems how this is a thread that I started so I dont have to worry about ending up back on probation for another thread),,, here is a short video of having fun combining the two greatest sports/hobbies known to man:sign Rock On:... Most fantastic camp ground I ever did find and FREE souveniers for the Grandsons!!!!

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, THAT is GORGEOUS Jack!! We talkin 7.62x51? What caliber? DEFINITELY got that longggggg range shooter attitude about it!!

Shipped to my door with the adapter for my AR15 CMMG 22lr conversion mags (of which I got 3 25 rounders in the "kit" that all carry a full life time warranty) it was 40 bucks = definitely affordable and DEFINITELY useful! As shown in the link to Mcfaden found here: https://www.mcfaden.com/McFadden-Machine-Lightnin-Grip-Loader-s/1828.htm and scroll down the list of adapters, they do have adapters for the Ruger 10/22 mags as well as the SR22 - and many others. Ya just gotta read down the list carefully. Any questions you can always email or call them. I have a Ruger MK1 that I bought brand new in the early 70's for 75 bucks that I have shot thousands of rounds thru (always carried it hunting with me for those longgg boring days when nothing but chasing a couple hundred rounds out the barrel shooting at pine cones and such would break the boredom) that I wish they would have had an adapter for. I think I have a permanent indent in my thumb from holding that little button down on the 10rd mag(s) of that one.. Definitely NOT made for the 556 100 round drum! The REALLY cool thing about that drum is that it came with a speed loader all of its own = came in the bag with the dual drum. Just slips over the part of the drum that slips into the mag well on the lower receiver, dump in a few rounds (make sure they are pointing in the right direction) and push down.. WORKS AWESOME!!

,, well put my friend ... I gotta ask,, are we in agreement that on any and all dyno charts, as applied to all internal combustion engines, that there is an absolute given that the torque curve stays above the horsepower curve until exactly 5250 rpm's and at that point they intersect and then at 5251 rpm's and above that horse power stays above the torque curve?

Thanks for your service in protecting our way of life living free Koz :usa:!! Do the M9's still have the decock/safety up on the slide or are they down on the frame on that Military model of the 92? Does any of the above shooters have a little better "feel" to it than the rest in your opinion? Many years ago I got to playing around at a gun show slipping a lazer round into chambers and lifting the weapon up without using sites to see which model came to (what I call) true point of aim for me by pointing at a spot on the Arena's wall (one of the Vendors had his sell bench set up to do just that). Ironically, the Beretta 92f was so spot on it was scary. I was shooting a Smith 29 for hunting back then and that model with stock grips pulled low consistently. The 1911's (which is what I shoot A LOT) all went high on me but WOWZY - that Beretta was AMAZING. Unlike you, I shoot for fun and dont pack for my job so to speak like you but someday when one pops up at a steal I am going to grab one!!

I already stuck these pics and the short demo vid in another thread but I think this loader is SOOOO COOL,, I just had to stick it in here too. We have been shooting the 22lr AR15 some and the only downside so far is how difficult it can be for the ol Dupentren invested fingers to reload those 25 rd mags.. Our Mcfadden mag loader came in today,, I am sooo excited I could eat a gallon of ice cream!! Check this out:

Consider me lightened up Dear !!

I think its just a simple matter of personal choice/opinion and tastes.. One mans junk is another mans treasure so to speak. Matter of fact, I have a really good friend who even collects actual old tools and indeed, some of those puppies are worth a fortune and highly collectable!! Personally, I am with you though Zag,, I like my guns cause for what they are = SHOOTERS! Speaking of shootin, check this out, the mag loader for my AR15 22lr conversion came in = pretty cool tool brother (vid shows how it works)!!

Seriously Patch, I was just trying to respond to the statement you made above (seen in red) thinking I was not addressing you properly. The "?" you notice following the "Dear" was a simple question as to what name you preferred when addressed as Steven is not your name. Probably sounds corny in todays day and age but when I write a letter, or an e-mail I usually start it out with "Dear Sirs" or something like that. It was purely an oversight on my part that it was taken as some form of gender reference. Sorry about that Patch.. Puc

and I am speaking to whom?

Dear ? (please fill in the name) = "Stochi" must be wayyyyyy above my pay grade,, please define. Thank you Puc

WAYYY COOL SKY = thanks for the link! Brings back some AWESOME memories.. I had a 1970 Mach 1 fast back

Not me Corporal Newkirk but you will be in my thoughts and prayers for a good outcome on that upcoming surgery. Thinking back in time a ways, I do recall a couple of dirt riding buddies who suffered some rotator cuff injuries and were down for a good while. If memory serves, I think one of them who I had not seen at the track for months finally showed up at a race and I asked where he had been. His reply was something along the line of "because of the lower blood flow in the region of the rotator cuff - the recuporation from such surgery is fairly lengthy". He also added that so was the therapy program taken to get back up to par. He obviously did what he was suppose to do cause it wasnt long and he was clearing 150' jumps with NO PROBLEM again..

Oppsss, my bad on having the wrong name associated with you brother. Quick question, did you know that your screen name comes up as "Steven" and, while on the subject, may I ask what you prefer to be called - just in case we do bump into each other and I want to get your attention ? Yep, I am definitely aware of high revving V-Twins. Matter of fact, I had the honor of riding and working on an Aprilla V-Twin dirtbike that was amazing in its ability to aquire some awesome hp wayyy up there in some high R's. A simple check on bore/stroke for figuring out piston speed associated with those like the Aprilla that do may be helpful in understand how/why they are able to do successfully aquire those R's though. I also know of several longer stroked large V-Twins that spin up pretty far too BUT they are very expensive machines built around big money parts that can handle the pressures associated with those R's. Certainly not your typical run of the mill engines and wayyyyyyyy out of my league both financially and mechanical abilities. Concerning the fuel gathering in the intake track thoughts. Back in the 80's Honda played around with dual carb arrangements on some of their single cylinder scoots. The design was such as using a low speed carb and high speed secondary (set up operated on similar principles behind a 4 barrel carb on a muscle car = they just used separate carbs in place of secondary "barrels") and they found that they had problems with fuel gathering in the intake track of the secondary carb and then, when the secondary was opened a nasty "bog" would take place. Once the fuel had a chance to clear out after the secondary was opened for a second - the bog cleared BUT - that nasty bog cause many not so good issues on hill sides if a rider wasn't aware to what was about to happen. Those engineers at Honda did something pretty cool to eliminate the situation. They borrowed some design work from the 2 stroke world of the day, they introduced a small reed valve into the intake track of the secondary that would only open with pressure from the secondary, thusly closing that track until needed. Worked fairly well too.. IMHO, the only issue with all of that was that keeping those things operating up to par was a NIGHT MARE. Just getting the carbs out for cleaning was a job and half and, if ya had to replace the reed valve, you had to take the head apart as that is where the reed was located..

Where's the gas flowing from Snipe? Carb over flows that empty right in front of the rear wheel? If so, maybe she's got a stuck float from being on her side.. Easy fix if so.