csdexter

Same here, I made a nice harness for the relay and put it on the bike some 6 months ago. No trouble yet. I did it because I couldn't sleep at night thinking that EVERYTHING on the bike is powered through the ignition switch. Which is not only insanely expensive, but you also have to drill out, because it uses security bolts whose heads shear off during assembly. I used a Panasonic/Nais automotive type ISO mini relay (P/N CB1a-M-12V) that's rated for 40A. For the wiring, I used 14AWG silicon wire from an RC model shop (for the main load-carrying wire). The harness (minus the ground wire, which was added after the photo was taken) looks like this: http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/11730-2/IMG_20130624_003836.jpg ... and on the bike it looks like this: http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/12181-2/IMG_20130711_235005.jpg Like previous posters said, being left in the dark in the middle of nowhere is no fun and this is one good countermeasure ;-)

(text updated a few times, check back for the latest version) Ok, I've done my homework right and here are the facts (writing this here in the hope that people may find it in the future if they look for it): The "relay bag" I got from PinWall contained: 2x 1UY-81950-92-00: this is a JIS D5011 B4-M1 SPST NC relay in a light blue case with a rubber mount on its back (like all others on this bike). It's made by Panasonic/Nais and if you were to buy it off the shelf, it would be the CA1b-12V-A-5, but since this is the OEM one, it's labelled 1UY-92 ACA22115-1 811 13. These are used (one each) for the carb heater and the brake light, both as high current drivers to avoid killing their associated switches. One of them is under the right side cover, the other is behind the left upper lower-cowling cover. Strangely as it may sound, the brake light on the RSV runs "in reverse" i.e. both brake switches OPEN when you activate them, cutting power to this white relay which has the brake lamp as the load.This was done so out of what appears to be serious safety concerns on the part of the Japanese engineers in conjunction with the cruise control box: they wanted to make dead-sure the cruise control will get deactivated the instant you touch the brakes so they designed the circuit like a dead-man switch :-) A similar design applies to the carb heater circuit as well. 1x 29U-81950-93-00: this is identical to the above, only SPST NO and the case is white (easier to tell apart at assembly time). CA1a-12V-A-5 is the Panasonic/Nais P/N, 29U-93 ACA12115-1 811 10 is the OEM label. This is used for the cruise control box, It is behind the left upper lower-cowling cover when on the bike and is also used as a high current driver. 1x 4XY-81950-00-00: this is the hazard warning relay and is a custom part by Omron that you won't find in the shop. Apart from the Yamaha part number, it's also labeled G8R-3DY-L 01Z8D2 in white lettering over a black case. It has a special connector (female housing/male spades on the relay with male housing/female receptacles on the harness) which looks very similar to the 12 position Yazaki .090" MT. Despite the name, it doesn't do any flashing but circuit switching instead: it behaves as if you activated the turn signal switch both ways at the same time when ON. When OFF, it just routes power to the "other" flasher relay under the right side cover. Yes, the Japanese were once again obsessed with safety so the hazards operate independently from the normal turn signals. The former are flashed by the small flasher relay inside the right side of the front fairing (US version), while the big one on the left just connects both sides together and cuts power to the "normal" flasher relay. The latter are flashed by the relay under the right side cover which includes the auto-cancel magic. Schematic is below (and in hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/19355-2/4xy-81950-00-00.png 1x 5EA-81950-00-00: this is the combined SCCR and fuel pump relay, also a custom part by Omron (G8R-30Y-J 05Z8D2). The inside schematic and detailed functionality of this one is explained in the service manual and electrical diagram on this site so I won't repeat everything already known here. Now, along with the lucky bag of relays, I also got myself a front (inside cowling) wiring harness to play with (credits go to PinWall Cycle for having a very good selection of 2nd hand parts). After carefully examining it, the truth was revealed: as strange/funny as it seems, Yamaha chose to move the flasher relay between the US and EU versions The US one has it in the front cowling while the EU one hides it behind the right side cover. This can only lead to the conclusion that the auto-cancel relay is indeed behind the right side cover on the US version -- please accept my apologies for the earlier confusion. The missing part of the puzzle is therefore: 4NK-83350-00-00: the signal auto-cancel relay, a custom part by Denso (FB257H/066500-4120). OEM MSRP is a bit over 100USD and it can be found on eBay for as low as half that. To add insult to injury, there's many versions of the FB257H, only differing in the last four digits of the P/N (the 4120 above). For example, the Yamaha V-Stars use the -4660 while the Kawasaki Vulcans use the -4890. Those digits seem to encode the particulars of the auto-cancel signal input as different bikes will either use a reed switch triggered by the mechanical speedometer or a Hall-effect speed sensor like on the RSV. Also, on some bikes this is a full-fledged flasher + auto-cancel relay while on the RSV it only does the auto-cancel part. This is the part I need ... time to go shopping :-) Until next time, @Dexter P.S. Apologies for correcting myself twice so far, as I get my hands on OEM parts and I can reverse-engineer them, the information I have comes closer and closer to the truth. I blame Yamaha for not publishing proper documentation, not even in their OEM service manual

The "item for sale" was labeled as "Bag of relays" not as the individual products. I knew what I was getting and did so for a very low price -- can't complain. All the relays actually in the bag (all 6 of them) work fine (just tested them) so can't complain about that either. For some unknown (commercial?) reason, the auto-cancel relay is a very rare find even at bike dismantlers' sites, just like the lower fairing covers or the CB radio. Will get my hands on one anyway, but it'll take a small bit more ;-)

Later: it turns out the lucky bag contained the SCCR (sidestand relay, as people know it) and the hazard relay, I'm still missing the auto-cancel one. Surprisingly, this last one seems to be charmed (or cursed!) in some way as it's impossible to find even on eBay! Everybody's trying to sell you the Denso FB257H as "the thing", which is, sadly, not. The FB257H is a full-blown blinker relay with included auto-cancel whereas the RSV has these functions separated. Funny, eBay is littered with auto-cancel relays for 1st Gen Ventures (and that's probably what I'll end up buying) that even seem to have the same colour wiring and pinout as the one that's supposed to be in the RSV. To add insult to injury, the parts (not electrical) diagram for RSV shows (by part number) the flasher as being in the front cowling and the auto-cancel under the right cover which they are not. The hazard relay and the auto-cancel and in the front cowling and the flasher is under the right cover. Oh boy, this is gonna be fun.

If one is determined to have/install longer/higher bars, then one is prepared to invest time/money into making it work. The electrical cable reserve on the RSV is OK-ish, the throttle cables come second and the clutch/brake hoses last in leeway. So, if it were me, I'd just get longer hoses and that would be that. Were I to be worried about hydraulic system performance, I'd switch to steel braided hoses. Were I to be really really obsessed about performance, I'd run pipes from the new locations of the master cylinders up to wherever the old size hoses would get to. It should be fairly easy to build such pipes from similar car ones I could get from a scrapyard. I reckon most people that want to install longer/higher bars don't want the hassle, so steel braided lines may be just enough. Just my 2 cents, @Dexter

I'm in the possession of an OEM auto-cancel relay and wire harness, experiments will start when I return from vacation. Looking forward to updating you all with my findings on this mistery ;-)

That's why I wrote "do some research" above ;-) Judging by the information on their site and other third-party reviews, Shorai appears to be a no-bull**** company, indeed. Were I in the US, I would buy my next battery from them (along with a good voltmeter, but that's just my OCD kicking in). Unfortunately, shipping to Ireland is probably going to raise the price above the "two old-style Pb-acid batteries" mark so, for the the time being, it's not worth it for me.

Glad somebody asked so that I get a chance to advance-warn them. So: LiPo needs a lot more "brains" than Pb-acid (which needs none because it's mostly self-regulating). Just like the LiPo in your mobile phone, they all use pack supervisor chips on a small PCB inside the battery. Those chips take care that the LiPo is charged and discharged properly. And by "properly" I mean "not transform in a fireball". Don't believe it? Search for "LiPo fire" on YouTube and see for yourself ;-) Back to the point, as with many other things in the history of technology, "brains" are hard to get right and are thus expensive. It's easy as cake to build a LiPo battery from individual cells that would output "about" 12V and handle the normal consumption of the bike plus the occasional cranking current spike. It's waaay harder to design a "brain" that can pass the rather high charging current in when the bike runs, the almost 20A of consumption on an all-on bike and the 200-300A spike when you crank. And do all that while also taking care that all cells are balanced, the battery is not over or under temperature and nothing catches fire. Not impossible and not rocket-science, but also not as easy as designing a HID kit, for example. Maybe, in a few years. Bottom line: if you're going to try a LiPo, do some research on the manufacturer. Is that a real company? Do they have any history in making LiPo-s? Do they have any history in making LiPo-s for automotive use? How's the warranty like? Any reviews? NOTE: just buying the most expensive model may still not shield you from bad design inside! Hope this helps, @Dexter

You may note that the other half of the connector is there from the factory. It's plugged with blind plugs where the wires would exit -- so you need two terminals and two wire plugs to complete your hook-up. If for some reason it's not there (or you'd like to get a new connector set just in case), these guys have a good selection: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SM-MT/sm-mt.html

I got all the bike-specific connectors from Eastern Beaver. In particular, the 4-position male-.250"-spade-in-female-housing with locking hole (barb is on the male, on the bike harness) is from this page: (search for 4P250-CNA) http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html I am being so specific about the connector because you need the Yazaki type, in which the female housing has the female lock side and the male housing has the locking barb -- the Sumitomo type is reversed: female housing has the barb and the male housing has the hole. Scroll down further on that page and you'll see them: you need the black one. The second harness is a different and separate thing from the first one. It bypasses the ignition switch with a relay so that the switch is only loaded with the relay's coil instead of the whole bike. Makes a difference in that your ignition switch won't get fried up over time, especially when you added extra electrical stuff to your bike. The two harnesses I built can be used independently (one, second or both).

Hi, The black connector has a female housing with 4 male spades in it and is plugged into by the main harness of the bike. In plain English: the bike-side cable + connector that were plugged into the relay will now plug into that black connector. The two female spades go onto the two remaining male spades on the relay, that feed its coil. The remaining ring terminal goes to battery positive, of course. I tried to preserve the OEM colour coding so that assembly or further servicing will be even easier, which is why the two relay coil wires have the same colour code as in the bike's harness. This is the main fuse harness on the bike, before routing the red wire to the battery (hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/11624-2/IMG_20130622_130329.jpg This is, as promised, the ignition relay-assist harness the night before installation. In this picture, the black ground wire hasn't been attached yet (hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/11730-2/IMG_20130624_003836.jpg Finally, this is the ignition relay-assist harness on the bike (hi-res): http://gallery.dexter.linux360.ro/d/12181-2/IMG_20130711_235005.jpg They were both installed about two months ago and I had no issues since.

The "T" joint between the two airboxes, the square one on top into which the crankcase breather hose plugs into, is 4XY-14485-00-00. The foam seals come with it, you can't get them separate. Mine were oil soaked as well, so I took them off (were falling apart anyhow), washed them thoroughly (but carefully so as not to break them), dried them and then re-installed them. Not like new, but not bad either. I reckon any sheet of foam that you can cut two gaskets from will do.

Seaking, the distance from the front exhaust port to the Y section is about 2.5 times the distance from the rear exhaust port to the same place. The Y section should be a lot hotter than the front section, not cooler. However, you're right about the slight bend in the Y section being the lowest point on the whole system and closer to the rear wheel -- but when going forward, it's the front wheel that's throwing dirt at the radiator and underside, not the front one Easy Rider, your point about the welds is valid. The muffler has similar spot-welding points on it that were painted with silvery paint afterwards and still, it's not rusty (not around those spots, nor anywhere, not even on the mating surface with the Y section!). Also, if they were eaten from the inside out, the outside wouldn't be so badly corroded, right? Now, I have a crazy idea: remember the sacrificial anode story from school? What if the metal used in the Y section pipe is acting like a sacrificial anode when connected to the other sections, obviously made up of a different metal? So, whenever things are wet, the Y section corrodes like hell while the front and rear remain nice and clean. And to top it up, call me crazy if you will, but the Y section is (MSRP) priced more than twice the front pipe (which, as mentioned, is way larger), more even than the muffler itself! I smell bad things here :-(

Just curious: if it's double-wall, shouldn't that mean it simply takes longer for it to corrode through? My front pipes are shiny and clean, like chrome (I mean the inside pipe, not the heat shield) while the Y section is rusty-red and basically flaking off (while the heat shield on it is still shiny like new).

Moisture, granted, but how come the front section, the heat shields (including the ones on the Y) and the muffler are impervious to it?

Howdy, I just patched quite a number of small holes in the Y (middle) section of my exhaust and since this is the second set of pipes this bike had, I have to ask: why is it always the Y section? The front pipes are pristine, even still shiny. The mufflers have nothing but light soot on them. The Y section is almost completely obliterated. Why? The ex set of pipes (I got the bike with a big box of parts from the PO which included the old pipes) was the same: really good front pipes, eaten beyond repair Y sections and good as new mufflers. Any ideas why this happens only to the Y sections? :confused24:

My first ride was a Virago 535 and as somebody already said, I still haven't found a bike as fun as that one :-( Happy to help with anything you may encounter on it.

That could be because most aftermarket, solid-state, load-agnostic flashers tend to have a shorter period (higher frequency) than the OEM one. The OEM auto-cancel relay has no power line of its own and only "steals" power during the ON phase of the flasher so, providing shorter such periods means it cannot harvest enough power to "remember" how many speed sensor pulses it counted so far and thus fails to disengage the flashing circuit as initially designed. I would be willing to test, possibly confirm and probably provide a fix for this situation, but my bike is an European model and only has one flasher. Anyone got a pair of (auto-cancel, hazards) relays to lend? I'll happily pay for postage to Ireland and I'll return them unharmed when my testing/research is done :-)

It should also be mentioned that there are LED-compatible flashers out there and that you could replace your main flasher relay (behind the right side cover) with one of those and do away with all the cutting and splicing into the OEM harness. Furthermore, the other two flasher relays on the bike do not do any flashing: the first one is concerned with the auto-cancel feature and the second one simply routes the flashing signal to the handlebar switch (so that you can "flash right" or "flash left") OR to both sides, bypassing the switch (when the hazards are on). In plain English, this means replacing the main flasher relay would fix both normal operation AND hazards with one shot :-) I'm using this one (http://www.louis.de/_202bf819206f2f633c8b6e367857362c51/index.php?topic=artnr_gr&artnr_gr=10032271) on my bike and works like a charm with both filament bulbs and LEDs. It's an European site, but I'm sure you must have a similar equivalent in the US as well. Also, note that it has the same connector as the OEM one so installing it is straightforward. Hope this helps!

In Europe, Moto-Detail makes one: http://www.louis.de/_30a0aadbe548eb5e2a1bc4a825840cb7a2/index.php?topic=search&searchterm=10034711&cmd.x=0&cmd.y=0 I'm sure you should have some local custom or bling shop doing something similar over there too. Later edit: Hmm, if I remember correctly, the clutch drum falls right below the hole. Is there any room whatsoever for a dipstick to fit in?

I like the "awesome near finished" line, gives way to many funny interpretations

Awesome, glad to hear it fixed it

There is a very nice explanation, with pictures, about how to diagnose the interlock system in the service manual (which is on this site, in the tech library section). You want to make sure the following work as they should (i.e. "ON" when they're on, "OFF" when they're off and no wiggling in between ;-) ): - clutch switch - neutral switch - sidestand switch Then, if all three check out, you want the SCCR to work fine (the manual mentioned above describes exactly what pins to measure on the SCCR and how). And if all four check out OK, then (assuming the emergency stop switch, errrrr, both of them , are perfectly fine too) it's gremlins!

Thanks for all the help, maybe something good will come out of this :-) If it helps, here's the datasheet (credits go to waybackmachine.org for keeping a rather accurate copy of the Internet from the past :-) ).

The good news is, :-) , after playing Sherlock Holmes for a bit, I found it. It's made by Mitsubishi Electric (or Cable and Connectors, depending on who you ask), same company that made the pump itself. It's a NMWP connector sporting 2.3mm (0.090") terminals. The (female) housing is P/N PB625-04027, the locking wedge is P/N PB875-04900, the (female) terminals are P/N MT095-63080 (20-24AWG) and P/N MT095-63280 (14-18AWG) and the wire seals are P/N RS220-0[1234]600 (24/20/18/14 AWG). The bad news is nobody (officially) makes a clone or compatible one (it predates the era when multiple source agreements became fashionable), and Mitsubishi will only sell it by the million :-(