Karaboo

I only have about 200 or so miles on since I put the progressives in my '90, but they sure are as advertised. I only run 4 or 5 psi on the front and used 10 weight oil and disconnected the power to the anti-dive solenoids. It doesn't come close to bottoming and actually feels smoother over some of the roads that I ride on a regular basis. Cornering is also more what the 1st generation bikes should be like. Best bang for the buck so far.

Manual says 13.8 oz of 10 wt oil. This is with stock springs. If you have Progressive springs, do as Fool says and suck down from the top (syringe works well) of the tube with the forks compressed to get at least 5-1/2" air space (no springs installed). I went down 5-7/8" so I could run a little air (4 psi) and it rides great.

Are any of the speaker wires routed next to some ignition wiring? Maybe a ignition suppressor (condenser) may help? Don't forget to check all the grounds for the ignition and the radio.

Try tapping that float bowl with a dowel or plastic screwdriver handle while the bike is running.

Yeah, my 1990 did not have the dust covers and my boots were gone when I bought it, so I made some guards on a 3D printer. They look goofy, but they should keep stone chips and bugs off of the lower part of the upper tubes. i don't think I will be able to use a bigger fork brace with these. I am looking forward to seeing what you did to make yours work with the boots.

I don't know if it has an apple version. I don't have any Apple stuff.

Garage Buddy. Plenty of tools, all in one easy reference.

I used stove black (used to paint cast iron wood stoves) on my 650 Heritage. I just did the cylinders and they ended up matching the case and heads almost perfect. I don't know if it is the same black as yours, though. I've never had a bike that new.

I saw the 3rd gen last week. They beamed it up before I could get a picture, though.

I just leave the top mast (CB section) in my trunk unless I am going to be using it. Only time I use it is on group rides. I used to fold it, but kept forgetting.

I finally got around to replacing the brake light sockets i my Big Bike Parts trunk unit with two LED strips. I was going to replace the rest of the bulbs with LED bulbs, but I did not find any bulbs that worked right when they are sideways. I think it looks okay. This was before the switch. Brakes are ON. This is after the new lights. Brakes are ON.

My Stihl 016 is 40+ years old and does take around 3 or 4 pulls to start, but did not cost me a thing. It was my dad's until he died 15 years ago. It is on the 4th bar and God only knows how many chains. I don't use it much, but it is always there when I need it.

Unless your pipes face forward, they will hear you leaving, not coming.

Well Puc, I think it moves along with a good story line much like the original 3 did (IV thru VI). This one ended with obvious setups of more to come. It will definitely go on my shelf with the rest when it comes out on Blu-ray. Go see it!

Saw the movie tonight. Not bad. They re-introduce one of the original characters (or props) every 20 minutes. Still pretty good.

Let 'er rip! As long as you don't need to turn.

Hey Gdub, my 1990 was also missing the gaiters on the forks and I was not looking forward to the dis-assembly required to replace them (or the cost from Yamaha). I looked at making some out of leather or vinyl, trying to adapt some chrome shields and several other options. What I ended up with was designing and printing some shields out on a 3D printer. They don't look too bad, but the important thing is the protection from road debris. They are a 2 piece design that bolts together. If you do end up taking the forks apart, just use the dust seals from the 89 models. They have to be cheaper.

My daughter is taking my wife and I to see it on Friday. I hate the crowds, but it is my daughter's Christmas present for us.

Go BIONIC!

High and low should be okay together. Not sure about fog lights, too. Might be too much. I know my Malibu has high and low on at the same time from the factory. The place I bought my kit from was http://www.mrtaillight.com I would have gone with just buying the relays, but this kit had all the right connectors to get the high power, grounds and connectors hooked up without having to cut, strip or crimp anything. Having them both on is like pulling back on the stalk switch to flash the beams. Very bright.

We use UV cure adhesives on many of the medical devices we make for securing tubing and potting PCB's. We don't use an open light source like the video above, as a matter of safety. You just have to remember, if the light does not reach the adhesive, it will not cure.

I don't know where the grounds are on a 2nd gen, but I would start by following the wires. The ground points always collect more corrosion.

Check the grounds.

You could try something like this? http://www.flyracing.com/product/snow/outerwear/gloves/ignitor-pro-glove/4238/black They are snowmobile gloves, but should work for you.