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GigaWhiskey

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Everything posted by GigaWhiskey

  1. GigaWhiskey
    Kewl. I musta took off for Waxahachie just before that pic was taken. BTW, when is Stampede #2?
  2. GigaWhiskey
    I was walking through the jungle with my ... oh wait, you prolly know this one.
  3. GigaWhiskey
    Did allballs for momma's 750. Went from the loose ball bearings to the allballs tapered bearings. Nice! It is a very common mod on the old 750's. I have not heard or read a complaint other than the instructions might not be as descriptive as you would like. I dunno what the kit for the VR's include but mommas came with 2 washers of different thinkness. You had to measure and then guess which one to use.
  4. GigaWhiskey
    Wow, they have gone up. Last I paid was about $83.
  5. GigaWhiskey
    I have run the same K&N since '94. In fact it was there when I bought her. So, $60 ain't so bad if ya think about it. Kinda like buying a MAC. Cost plenty up front but works out cheaper in the long run.
  6. GigaWhiskey
    15 to go to second, wow, that is slooooooooooow. Mine chugs and gets itchy at that speed. It screams WIND ME UP WIMP!!!!
  7. GigaWhiskey
    WoW, totally forgot.
  8. GigaWhiskey
    Going from your behemoth to a tike bike is no easy feat. I get on momma's bike and I feel like I want to make the front end shimmy it feels so tiny. And, it's a 750. Hope things are not too bad. Hope you mend quick.
  9. GigaWhiskey
    The rad hoses ain't cheap either and there are plenty of them on that bike. I changed all of mine a few years back. The hoses seem to be in perty good shape, even considering the age. The big long one on the right side (when sitting on her) had some chafing going on. I think you are paying for the name, they come from Yammy and the bends. You want those bends. I would swear those mirrors got to about $400 a piece a few years back, unless I misread something. Nice to see them at $105, lol.
  10. GigaWhiskey
    MAF cleaner basically the same thing? Just curious.
  11. GigaWhiskey
    From what I have read this may actually reduce the amount of power because an optimal system will be tuned and have about 10 times the volume - i.e. 1 liter motor = a 10 liter airbox. Dunno what ours are but cutting it down is like you are going backwards. I believe Moto GP bikes will have large airboxes for this reason. Making the airbox and filter smaller may also create eddies that get pulled through the venturies which can disturb the airflow down the throat of the carbs because you may be reducing the distance to where they be straightened out. I understand that K&Ns help reduce this with their design. My point is, it may not be the greatest idea. I am no engineer so take it as you will. And I can't argue with this due to the same.
  12. GigaWhiskey
    I do not have an answer for you. I searched and could not find much. If you do have to solder, review this thread - http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27540&highlight=class+display Good tips there.
  13. GigaWhiskey
    I got the 3k thing figured out. i had a suggestion to back everything off. I did that and the manifold had enough vacuum to light up the boost sensor. I noticed that it dropped when I pulled the hose to the boost sensor. I got close enough with the sync screws, looking through the top and pulling on the top cable, to get the butterflies closing about the same. This stopped it. Still got that sputtering through the carbs and exhaust. Still need to figure that out. It is not bad, they are just small. I sealed everything up tight amongst some other things.
  14. GigaWhiskey
    That and the 4 gauge cables will make you happy.
  15. GigaWhiskey
    I looked at the butterflies and yes, #2 was open and #4 just a tad. Moved A and C and could see them all close together. Hooked all the cables again and it feels much better and actually sits at about 1k. Still a bit rough though but I did not have the airbox on either, lol. Mike, I had them out but not apart. Now before me, I have no idea. So, I do not actually know if they are flat and inline/axis. I probably should take them apart and make sure it is right, lol. Yea, sync was way off whack. I knew that. I had a suggestion to back everything off so I did. And, then everything was not feeling right at all. I did get an education on this one. Cables, where all 5 meet, how to take them apart and put them back together and learned that A and C play a role I did not think of - adjusting the butterflies. I'll get the airbox back on, synced and buttoned up. I still bet it wont feel as right as I would like. I might hit up some of the local guys to see what they think - like V7Goose, BVinson and Rick Butler. Since I have only messed with or really payed attention to mine, I really do not know what I should expect and not expect. Maybe what I think is not right is actually the way it is. I prolly should expect a little roughness with no YICS and 6 solid engine mounts. I feel better now but still need to work on that lovin' feeling. Needle is on low. Thanks MiCarl & Mike
  16. GigaWhiskey
    Still working on this thing, yes thing. I have lost that lovin' feeling for the time being. I cannot get the idle screw to touch the linkage even with it screwed all the way in. Does the "A" sync screw have anything to do with this? Is there an adjustment on the top cable that controls this. I can get it to touch the idle screw if I push down on the linkage. I have the cables disconnected at the round thing where all 5 cables meet. I have also sprayed deep creep in there but that does nothing.
  17. GigaWhiskey
    Check the plugs, 3 looked a little sooty one looked a little cleaner. Cleaned and gapped - one was off slightly. Saw spark that looked to be right on each of them. Cleaned the two TCI connections. All seemed to make a small bit of difference. I was noticing a slight putter in the intake and some out of the exhaust. Since it was not close enough for my liking, i backed off the three sync screws and the idle screw. Now she idles at about 3k and I have to force it back with the throttle. Top and bottom cable connections are loose and both connections at the carbs, the cable are loose. I am not thinking it is an air leak somewhere. What now?
  18. GigaWhiskey
    The hose looked good but did not test it. What is a reasonable amount of time to discount moisture being there? Reason I ask is that the last time it got some rain was about a year ago. I do not spray the bike down with water either. Just curious. I will search this to see how it is done. I had this on my mind to check them. Been reading a lot of threads lately. I think I even have a new set of plugs somewhere, even though the current ones do not have many miles or time on them. Did you do the Exhaust pipe, heat check ? Nope. Really do not want to touch them, lol. I have considered picking up one of those tools that read the temps from HF. Just thinking TCI makes me want to cringe. Read too much on those issues lately. Also, what would be a reasonable amount of time to discount moisture? ********************** Is there a leak test I can do on the boost sensor? Is there an amount of vacuum I should pull on it for about 30 minutes? I want to see what results I get out of the sealing of the upper tubes. If good to a point, I would like to put some miles on her with a full tank and some seafoam to see if this would help as well. I hope it stops raining so I can do this. She is too clean to get her dirtied up so soon after, lol. Thanks for your input!
  19. GigaWhiskey
    Sealed them with silicone. Will let them dry.
  20. GigaWhiskey
    Hey Y'all been messin' around a bit with a little progress. Found a top boot had slid up a bit causing a vacuum leak. Fixed that and ran better. Turned the pilot screws out to 2 1\2 from 1 1\2 turns (actually got the 1 1/2 from a post), made a difference. It is smoother and idles better but not quite there. So, I kept spaying and noticed that it is also leaking where the upper boots meet the airbox. They spin in the box fairly easy and I can move them from side to side. When I move them from side to side they sound juicy. So, should these spin easy and move side to side like they do? Should I clean, dry and seal them as well? Or am I due for new ones (if they are still purchasable? I searched for this and found nothing.
  21. GigaWhiskey
    Hey Boss, Is there a way I can change the title to thread that is visible other that in the first post? I see where you can get to change the title of a thread but it is only viewable in the first post. I would like to see the change in the list of thread titles like when you select New Posts or go tone of the other forums. Why Is ask is that one of my recent threads has been solved and I had made a mistake in the title. My intentions were to fix the error and let everyone know the issue had been solved. I can live with it either way, just hoping it were possible. Thanks, Rick
  22. GigaWhiskey
    After I read this, thinking you are CRAZY, I hustled to the garage to look. Low and behold, your are NOT CRAZY. I am having a "D'OH" moment. Both needles are below the rubber stops. I know for a fact that the volt needle worked for a while. Somehow it went below. THANK YOU!!!!!!
  23. GigaWhiskey
    There are pictures of the 83 in this post. http://venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=448794&postcount=6
  24. GigaWhiskey
    I think, do not quote me, the 83 is plugged in a different place than later models.
  25. GigaWhiskey
    I had another thread going about my temp and volt gauges deciding not to work. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46937 When I was referring to the difference of RPM, i was meaning when the hoses were connected during the sync and then afterward when it was running with the hose on #2. I will get to all this on Friday since I got lucky to get a day off. Checking for vacuum leaks and adjustments and stuff. Thanks for the replies!
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